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KonaBlueBryar

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looking at 20X10 wheels for front, only come in +40 offset. i should be fine i think.

Looking to run 20X10.5 in rear with +30 offset. i understand that i will have Poke, but im also stretching either a 285/30 or 275/35 onto it.

give me your imput on fitment issues
 

Champale

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First of all, how low is your car?

Second, front fitment should be fine even with a 285mm tire.

Third, man oh man I don't know how well that is going to work out back. I think we've spoken in another thread about this, but I run a 20x10.5 ET45 with 295/30 PSS and they just barely barely barely clear - listed at 11.5" tread width, 11.9" section width. The 305/30/20 PSS (11.8" tread/12.3" section) rubbed on both sides at top of fender. And you now want to push that 10.5" wheel 15mm further out (i.e. more than 1/2")? You will need some super narrow tires to make it work so I guess something with a 10.7" tread width might work? Tough call.
 

Pentalab

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In an ideal world, I would have thought that a 10.5" wide rear tire would require a 51.35 mm offset. (45 + 6.35). With only a proposed 30mm offset, it will be sticking a mile out past the wheel well.... like aprx .8"
You might want to re-think your proposal.
 

Pentalab

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why not just 20x10 with 285 square?

With a 42 mm offset, that combo is a winner...and simple to implement. Plus you can rotate front to back. Plenty good enough for DD use..and handles superb. If 275 tires used, you can get away with a 45mm offset. 18 x 10 with 285 square works superb.
 

KonaBlueBryar

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thanks for the replies guys, I forgot I made this thread.. \

I found a guy with the same wheels as me on another fourm. he was running 20x10.5 +25 square with a 275/35/20 and it fit great. he also said he fitted the +30 and it fit also.

Poke doesn't bother me, I would actually rather have poke and stretched tire than tucked. idk maybe I'm crazy.

It will for sure work with a 275 width tire that is 10.7 wide, but no more.

also I'm on H&R SS springs and am swapping to coilovers soon.
anyways I bought a cheap set of 20x10s and ill probably sell them off and go with a 20X10.5 setup later. again, I really appreciate your help.
 

Champale

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Just my 2 cents, but that seems like a strange and problematic fitment. Getting a better offset will allow you to run more tire all around. But if those are the wheels you want, go for it!

John
 

Norm Peterson

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If "poke" is code for the wheels and tires sticking out past the sheetmetal, make sure that you have enough tire to metal gap to keep them from ever meeting under any circumstances.


I don't like to see the tops of tires (and sometimes even the tops of the wheels) buried up under the fenders either. But I don't mind a bit of stretch, say out to max recommended wheel width for the tire size, as you can find cornering response and handling precision advantages by doing so. My track day setup is 285/35-18's on 11" wide rims. At all four corners (pictured below ↓↓↓ ).


Norm
 

Pentalab

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If "poke" is code for the wheels and tires sticking out past the sheetmetal, make sure that you have enough tire to metal gap to keep them from ever meeting under any circumstances.


I don't like to see the tops of tires (and sometimes even the tops of the wheels) buried up under the fenders either. But I don't mind a bit of stretch, say out to max recommended wheel width for the tire size, as you can find cornering response and handling precision advantages by doing so. My track day setup is 285/35-18's on 11" wide rims. At all four corners (pictured below ↓↓↓ ).


Norm

Norm, I thought you had 315's on all 4 x corner's....on 11" rims ? A 285 on a 11" rim should be aprx 295mm wide ?

His proposed 10.5" rear rim with ET-30, per my calcs works out to a .8" poke. IE: his ET should really be 52mm.
 
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Norm Peterson

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I think it was Mark (csamsh) who was running 315's. With barely over 1mm strut-side clearance I can't run anything wider than 285***, and I had to fab up a very thin spacer (0.025") to even get that much on the right front to at least one of the front wheels.

picture.php


*** The Michelin PSS runs a little wide (~290mm on their measuring width wheel), so they should be about 300 mm wide on 11's. If section width is measured very outside to very outside as opposed to, say, between the sidewall body plies.

In the rear, 10.5" with ET+30 will be well out past where the rears are here ↓↓↓ . I never bothered to reference the outer faces of these wheels or tires against anything, mainly because there's enough room for a considerable amount of suspension bump travel.

picture.php



Norm
 
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KonaBlueBryar

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i know .8 of an inch seems like alot but i dont think so.. its easily fixed with running a 275/35/20 on a 10.5 wheel, ill try to find the setup i was thinking about.



thats a guy i found on facebook, messaged him and those are 20X10.5 +25 offset. i was going to run a +30.

only reason for that was becasue i envied the concave of these wheels and you can only get that with the 10.5s and they only came in +30 or +25.

the +30 would have been perfect IMO
 

Norm Peterson

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Unfortunately, I have my doubts that I could run that much given that my car sees HPDE track time and is still running a (slightly modified) stock PHB.

Hope he's running some pretty firm springs and bars, or never carries more than one passenger or much weight in the trunk. I had a car back in my much younger years that had a rear tire to fender fitment that looked sort of like that but with more vertical clearance. Tore up the outer sidewalls pretty good from having too many people pile into it from time to time.


Norm
 

KonaBlueBryar

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Haha I can imagine, he was running H&R SS which I can tell ya defiantly aren't stiff. But I do believe he has adjustable shocks and has them pretty stiff
 
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