Shooting for 11s N/A

[conexion914]

top end shouldnt move much unless the weather is changing rapidly, or direction of wind changes. if you remember those two variables......i would be skeptical of that convertor. when i had a PTC in the car, it literally acted no different than stock. i could flash it a little more like 3000-3100. but it never netter me any et gain. i dont think it could take the aggressive lock up that BBR put into it. when i switched to a TCI...the car picked up in 60' and in mph. you can literally feel the convertor lock up, it feels like another gear....then the mph starts pouring on. so, i hate to suggest something harsh, but if you have ruled out track/weather. if it were my car...i would start there.

I appreciate the insight. Mine isn't one of their reworked stockers, it's their 10.5" converter. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I had some tuning issues with BAMA on getting the converter to lock up right, now that's been worked out I picked up 1-2 mph in both the 1/8th and 1/4 mile and about a tenth in ET.

If the converter ends up being a problem - I certainly hope not after the issues I had with installing it, although self inflicted - I will probably end up going with a Circle D or a PI triple disc later down the road.

 

[TheDarkPath]

Wow, this thread did get slower as some of you said. Someone said the OP was looking for mid-12s. Im the OP and mid-12s have been run many times now. I have several videos on youtube. I've posted many of them throughout the years so they're out there.

For those who don't want to believe my times, I have 2 slips in the 1/4 mile time slips thread that back me up and a video showing my car, the launch, full run, and the ET/MPH on the boards at the end. I'm not going to argue BS or not because I know what I run every time I go to the track with the mods I've done. I'm not here bragging or trying to show off. I've posted information about what I've done, experienced, what worked, what didn't, and gains I saw on my car at the track I go to with different mods. For the person who mentioned weight, before the a-arms, race star wheels, and a few other weight reducing items, my car (with me in it) weighed 3495 lbs. I weigh 135lbs so that helps too.

I don't have an ET update. I have the car back after the dyno tune and 3600 Circle D torque converter install. I have the off-road H back on and the 1 piece driveshaft back on (neither were present when I ran 12.49 @ 109). The car daily drives great but at WOT, it's a whole new animal. Should be interesting if the 555r DRs hook when I get to the track next. It rained this past Friday and rain is on the forecast for this Friday (the track I go to only has open nights on Fridays).

Crossing my fingers for weather change for Friday so I can get out there and make some runs.

Going back to the main topic, if I come up short, I plan on getting some CMCV delete plates and tune for it. If I have traction issues with the Nitto 555r DRs, I have some 17 inch wheels with MT ET Streets in case their needed. I also have more weight reduction ideas in mind and want to replace the BMR LCAs for adjustable UPR LCAs.

 

[kbchevlvr]

i miss read your first post on this.....i understood it to say cai and tune only for mid 12's. lol

 

[skwerl]

I'd recommend throwing the MT's on and leaving the 555r's at home next Friday night.

 

[TheDarkPath]

i miss read your first post on this.....i understood it to say cai and tune only for mid 12's. lol

Nah, mid-12s came after the UDP, BMR LCAs, BMR radiator support/swaybar delete, C&L street cai, 93 octane tune, 4.10s, offroad h, and the MT ET Streets on a 17 inch wheel. I don't recall my weight with me in the car. Ran 12.67, 12.63, and 12.61 (forget MPH...107/108).

I wasn't expecting much with the suspension. I did it partially for looks and tried to add mods that would accomodate future mods (adjustability). I think my biggest improvement after the 12.60s was the Race Star Wheels and a less sticky DR in the back (MT ET Streets were too much tire for launching at 2300 RPM on stock converter...took a lot of testing to get the air pressure right). I never saw full potential with that setup. If weather would have cooperated, I'd have gone back with the off-road H and driveshaft before the 3600 stall converter to get a true before/after but oh well.

As far as racing mildly modded autos, I'm no noob either. I had over 130 passes on my 1999 V6 Mustang. It was slow as snails but it was fun to go out and I worked on consistency. I have over 100 passes on my GT. It'd be hard to count as there was a time there when I was going out to the track every few weeks and would run 6-7 times each. She made her first pass in 95 degree June heat with paper tags, 350 miles on the clock, and showroom stock complete with shaker 1000 subs in the trunk. I wanted a baseline. After 4 or 5 passes, I clicked off a 13.97 @ 99. Better weather that fall got me to 13.83 @ 100.

With my car and mods, I've put a LOT of time into researching and planning. I've tried my best to make everything "mesh" together to net me my best potential for ET gains. I've also spent a lot of time at the track testing different launch RPMs, tire pressures, and suspension settings throughout the different stages of my mod level to achieve best results.

 

[conexion914]

Wow, this thread did get slower as some of you said. Someone said the OP was looking for mid-12s. Im the OP and mid-12s have been run many times now. I have several videos on youtube. I've posted many of them throughout the years so they're out there.

For those who don't want to believe my times, I have 2 slips in the 1/4 mile time slips thread that back me up and a video showing my car, the launch, full run, and the ET/MPH on the boards at the end. I'm not going to argue BS or not because I know what I run every time I go to the track with the mods I've done. I'm not here bragging or trying to show off. I've posted information about what I've done, experienced, what worked, what didn't, and gains I saw on my car at the track I go to with different mods. For the person who mentioned weight, before the a-arms, race star wheels, and a few other weight reducing items, my car (with me in it) weighed 3495 lbs. I weigh 135lbs so that helps too.

I don't have an ET update. I have the car back after the dyno tune and 3600 Circle D torque converter install. I have the off-road H back on and the 1 piece driveshaft back on (neither were present when I ran 12.49 @ 109). The car daily drives great but at WOT, it's a whole new animal. Should be interesting if the 555r DRs hook when I get to the track next. It rained this past Friday and rain is on the forecast for this Friday (the track I go to only has open nights on Fridays).

Crossing my fingers for weather change for Friday so I can get out there and make some runs.

Going back to the main topic, if I come up short, I plan on getting some CMCV delete plates and tune for it. If I have traction issues with the Nitto 555r DRs, I have some 17 inch wheels with MT ET Streets in case their needed. I also have more weight reduction ideas in mind and want to replace the BMR LCAs for adjustable UPR LCAs.

I apologize for it getting derailed on my behalf. I too have 11's N/A as a goal and was just discussing with others their experiences as well. I dont call BS and believe youve run those times. Good luck on the nittos and let me know what you think of the circle d converter as i may look into one of those for next year.

 

[TheDarkPath]

I apologize for it getting derailed on my behalf. I too have 11's N/A as a goal and was just discussing with others their experiences as well. I dont call BS and believe youve run those times. Good luck on the nittos and let me know what you think of the circle d converter as i may look into one of those for next year.

No worries. I'll definitely have a full report on the Circle D triple disk stall. I can say that before/after on clean concrete and heat in the tires, I went from being able to launch off idle pretty well to absolutely melting the Nitto 555r's...even with peddalling out a bit. Haven't actually had a chance to feel the full effect due to lack of traction but for the track, I'll be better prepared (18 psi in the Nittos or less in the MTs, smokey burnout, prepped track, etc).

 

[killr3v]

Interesting! I'm about 125# heavier than you so I'm having a harder time. I'm hoping to run 12.20s or so with the rebuilt rear end, gears and new clutch. Good luck man. It's hard work but a hell of a lot of fun.

Sent from my galaxy II while double clutching and blowing the welds on the intake.

 

[Blackbird1084]

Nitto's are only good for mid-low 1.7's basing that off of my experience with them in my TA. I had 245/50/16 nitto 555r's with a 3500 lock up stall, 3.73's, and a race weight of 3650 when I first started cutting 1.7's. Then after an engine rebuild (basic rebuild), h/c/i combo, 275/50/15 mt et streets (nitto's would no longer hold on for anything better than a 1.75 60ft), a 4200 non lock up stall, and race weight of 3595 I was cutting a best of 1.567 with a 1.59 avg 60'. My advice is to leave the nitto's on for the street and use the mt's at the track. Oh and I never went lower than 18 psi in my mt's it did no good. I hope you post some n/a 11's soon as that would be great to see in a bolt-on auto. And btw you are one skinny sob! I haven't weighed 135 since I was 14 lmao.

 

[skwerl]

I'll agree with Blackbird about the MT tire pressures. My best 60' was at 18 psi.

 

[GERMANSHEPERD]

My car cuts anywhere from 1.57s to 1.59s on the M /Ts with 17psi.

 

[conexion914]

I run my 255/50/16 MT ET Streets at 15psi cold, 16psi hot and have no issues. At 17psi hot I would hook off the line, but spin 2nd gear (BAMA has the 1-2 shift set very firm). Dropped the pressure by 1psi and the car hooks the whole way down.

 

[Blackbird1084]

It's in your suspension if it hooks off the line but doesn't during the shift. Are you running stock shocks/struts? I'm running qa1 coilovers on the front set on 3 and qa1 shocks on the rear set to 0. The front stays up going down the track keeping the back tires pinned. 0 tire spin through the whole run at 18 psi hot. But a 1 psi change isn't enough to change anything else.

 

[conexion914]

It's in your suspension if it hooks off the line but doesn't during the shift. Are you running stock shocks/struts? I'm running qa1 coilovers on the front set on 3 and qa1 shocks on the rear set to 0. The front stays up going down the track keeping the back tires pinned. 0 tire spin through the whole run at 18 psi hot. But a 1 psi change isn't enough to change anything else.

My suspension is as follows:

UPR LCA
Cobra Jet Springs in the rear
UPR Sway Bar Delete

Everything else is stock. I was considering getting the Strange Adjustables for the rear sometime soon.

 

[Sharad]

Sticky tires and a solid suspension are key to consistent et's. My TA varied no more than .05 in all 10 elimination rounds of the last shootout I was at.

+1

My suspension is as follows:

UPR LCA
Cobra Jet Springs in the rear
UPR Sway Bar Delete

Everything else is stock. I was considering getting the Strange Adjustables for the rear sometime soon.

Strange or QA1 are both good choices.

 

[conexion914]

Would having just the rears be worth anything until I could afford the fronts?

 

[Blackbird1084]

No. They'll basically keep the front end pinned to the ground. I know it sounds odd but mine did that exact thing until I put the coilovers on the front. After I got all four on, it completely changed the car for the better. So you only have rear springs?

 

[conexion914]

That's correct. Stock springs in the front and Cobra Jet springs in the rear. (not the Cobra Jet lowering springs, btw)

I suppose I'll wait to do anything shock/strut wise until I can do both front and rear.

 

[Blackbird1084]

That would be best. I'm not sure what the exact difference is in the rates of the springs but I may have figured out why yours acts like that. When I had my 04 I tried running 4cyl springs both front and rear as a drag setup. The next time I went to the track I tried launching like I always did when on take off it squated so hard it bottomed out and the rearend bounced. After it bounced it broke the tires loose even though it dead hooked on the launch. I immediately switched the stock rear springs back in and the problem went away. Having just those springs in the back might be hurting you. But the only way to test that is to switch them at the track one run after another. That'd be easy to do though.

 

[conexion914]

I might try that. I have videos of the car and there is no bouncing or unloading of the rear end and my 60' are consistently 1.80-1.82 (auto, ~3500 stall, 4.10). The one night I had tire spin going into 2nd wasn't too cold, or anything out of the ordinary. The tune revision I have really had the 1-2 shift very firm, so it was hitting the tires hard. If suspension can allow me to run a higher tire pressure can some MPH be gained from that?