It's all OE replacement but as I said...only seeing 7/16" of engagement at the slave cylinder which doesn't sound like enough. And I did occasionally have some difficulty with upper RPM shifting. I'm going to try one 3/16" shim.
Curious as to how that will come out as, if my math is correct, the 1 3\16" shim should make your total TOB preload 5\8" instead of the 7\16" you have currently, yes? So this means that you'll only have 5\8" of total usable TOB stroke before the TOB bottoms out (TOB at full extension, which is where it was when you took the initial measurement.....at least my assumption that it was at full extension). I'll assume that you didn't measure the existing clutch assembly while still bolted up to get this info prior disassembly...……...
The way I understand this, the less TOB preload, the closer the clutch release point is to the pedal travel hitting the floor (or the clutch disengagement point if you prefer). The more TOB preload, the further the clutch release point is from the pedal travel hitting the floor (or clutch disengagement point if you prefer) w\ 1" representing the max TOB preload possible.
The problem is knowing\figuring out where the
minimum total TOB preload should be to provide full clutch release when system is fully bled out & pedal is fully depressed (car doesn't try to move when shifting into gear) to the floor as this point will\can be slightly different from 1 clutch assembly to another...even of the same manufacturer & class (due to manufacture QA\QC tolerance. Example: a 5% height tolerance means a difference of almost 1\16" of TOB preload...question is, which direction? Shorter or longer?) If this is\was known then you can\could adjust for pedal height\travel preference....
Just looking at your measurements my gut says that a final min total TOB preload of 3/4" (so a 5\16" shim) is more ideal IMHO but I can't say this from any level of experience (only using the math to work this from the std of 1" total TOB preload) as I have never installed a clutch assembly in a vehicle using a non adjustable hydraulic master\concentric slave TOB system, only mechanical linkage type systems where you can adjust for all of this post install so not as big of a deal as these are.
That's a lot of work to install the trans then when you get the clutch all fully bled out you find the clutch won't fully disengage when pedal is depressed to the floor...………….
I know this is more work to do at this point but before I would go ahead I would pull the new stuff off, remount the old clutch disc & PP then get measurement of this height to then make a comparison to the new stuff to then make a better decision as you were used to what the old stuff was measuring out to so it would seem to me to start there then make any adjustments so that you won't have to do this work more than once.
Just a suggestion...………...
All I do know is that all manual clutch packages for this 4.6L 3V aren't made to hit the exact same total TOB preload measurements but when using the OEM flywheel (or an aftermarket flywheel that measures out to exactly the same height as the OEM unit) the odds should be better but also personal preference will also dictate where the total TOB preload is set & this may be different from where the clutch manuf may have designed a particular package to fall....thus why you should measure for this IMHO.
Hope it all comes out to your liking the 1st time..........................