Slowing clutch disenagement on launch?

[one eyed willy]

After breaking my main shaft on my tr6060..a buddy sent me this link. I did a little googling and found s2000 and some BMW's come stock with a fitting/valve that does the same thing. Thoughts?

http://magnusmotorsports.com/products/clutch-products-services/launch-control-device/

 

[Johnf78]

Pretty cool. I am interested to see if anyone on here has experience with this.

 

[1camwonder]

Looks like a cool piece but personally I think its just one more piece to worry about while launching. Different tires, tire pressures, launching rpms, and track conditions will all require a different a different amount of slip. Dialing in the right amount of slip could be a potential nightmare, I trust my left foot more than an elaborate setup. Just because something is adjustable, doesn't mean you should be adjusting it. I'd rather save the $275 and have more seat time in my car at the strip. I don't doubt that the product works but its probably overkill for the masses. Just my 2 cents I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[fdjizm]

I'd rather not slip my clutch at all, I dramatically decreased the life of my clutch by slipping it at 6k with street tires for a short while.
Dump that bitch and hold on, that's how I like it.

 

[one eyed willy]

Dump that bitch and hold on, that's how I like it.

Works great!

 

[fdjizm]

Yes.. that is part of racing, we break shit sometimes.
If you don't want to break anything you may want to reconsider racing. lol

 

[05moneypit]

I tried this back in 2010 when I had the TKO600 and McLeod twin disc in the car because of breaking parts and having a hard time making radials hooks. It has some merit and sorta worked but I finally gave in and went to a 4R70.

The only things I did different was I put a pressure switch in the system and a micro switch for 1st gear to keep the 2 step active till the pressure bled off a little in 1st gear. After 1st gear the system was bypassed via the solenoid valve.

This is the write up I did on another forum. I deleted the pictures from my photo bucket account but may still have them on another laptop if you are interested.

Hydraulic system.

1) Line lock solenoid to force fluid through the flow control side of the system.
2) Directional flow control. Allows full flow to the clutch T/O cylinder but meters the flow of the fluid back.
3) Adjustable pressure switch that stays closed while the pressure is bleeding off and is connected directly with the 2 step so that the engine RPMs are controlled while the clutch is slipping.

Electrical system.

1) Spliced into auto transmission plug in the console to get a keyed 12V supply for the relay and switches.
2) Installed a toggle switch on the side of the console that allows the system to be turned off for street driving.
3) Mounted a micro switch on the transmission that is closed only when the shifter is in first gear.
4) Mounted a NO (normally open) pressure switch in the system that activates (closes) when the hydraulic pressure in the system is greater than 200 PSI.
5) Connected the NO side of the pressure switch to the coil side of a 30A automotive relay that will power the line lock solenoid.
6) Connected the 2 step rev control into the pressure switch so that the 2 step is active while the pressure switch is closed.

So here is what happens.

When the car is brought into stage I can activate the system by turning on the toggle switch. With the clutch pedal depressed and the shifter in 1st gear the 2 step becomes active and will hold the engine RPM's at the set launch RPM. I can dump the clutch and the flow control meters the flow of the fluid returning from the clutch cylinder. This allows the clutch to slip for a few tenths of a second and lets the car get rolling with out that violent shock. The pressure switch in the system stays closed until the system pressure drops down to about 200 psi. (When the clutch is pushed in the system pressure is 960 psi with my clutch) Below 200 psi the switch opens and the 2 step drops out. Shifting, clutch application and rev limiting after 1st gear is normal because the system drops out as soon as the shifter is pulled from 1st gear.

The flow control is going to take some time to get properly dialed in. First indication after a few launches at the track Sunday is that there is some potential for the system to help but it is going to be very track (traction) sensitive.

 

[one eyed willy]

Yes.. that is part of racing, we break shit sometimes.
If you don't want to break anything you may want to reconsider racing. lol

you twat

ive bent a rod, broken a oil pump, broken ring lands,broken 2nd in my 3650 and now the output shaft of a 6060......im all about breaking shit, but it gets expensive and if i can find a $300 solution to keep from spending more money, plus help with traction and making things more consistent....well id like to explore those options....now go butter up some rods or something.

 

[one eyed willy]

I tried this back in 2010 when I had the TKO600 and McLeod twin disc in the car because of breaking parts and having a hard time making radials hooks. It has some merit and sorta worked but I finally gave in and went to a 4R70.

The only things I did different was I put a pressure switch in the system and a micro switch for 1st gear to keep the 2 step active till the pressure bled off a little in 1st gear. After 1st gear the system was bypassed via the solenoid valve.

This is the write up I did on another forum. I deleted the pictures from my photo bucket account but may still have them on another laptop if you are interested.

Hydraulic system.

1) Line lock solenoid to force fluid through the flow control side of the system.
2) Directional flow control. Allows full flow to the clutch T/O cylinder but meters the flow of the fluid back.
3) Adjustable pressure switch that stays closed while the pressure is bleeding off and is connected directly with the 2 step so that the engine RPMs are controlled while the clutch is slipping.

Electrical system.

1) Spliced into auto transmission plug in the console to get a keyed 12V supply for the relay and switches.
2) Installed a toggle switch on the side of the console that allows the system to be turned off for street driving.
3) Mounted a micro switch on the transmission that is closed only when the shifter is in first gear.
4) Mounted a NO (normally open) pressure switch in the system that activates (closes) when the hydraulic pressure in the system is greater than 200 PSI.
5) Connected the NO side of the pressure switch to the coil side of a 30A automotive relay that will power the line lock solenoid.
6) Connected the 2 step rev control into the pressure switch so that the 2 step is active while the pressure switch is closed.

So here is what happens.

When the car is brought into stage I can activate the system by turning on the toggle switch. With the clutch pedal depressed and the shifter in 1st gear the 2 step becomes active and will hold the engine RPM's at the set launch RPM. I can dump the clutch and the flow control meters the flow of the fluid returning from the clutch cylinder. This allows the clutch to slip for a few tenths of a second and lets the car get rolling with out that violent shock. The pressure switch in the system stays closed until the system pressure drops down to about 200 psi. (When the clutch is pushed in the system pressure is 960 psi with my clutch) Below 200 psi the switch opens and the 2 step drops out. Shifting, clutch application and rev limiting after 1st gear is normal because the system drops out as soon as the shifter is pulled from 1st gear.

The flow control is going to take some time to get properly dialed in. First indication after a few launches at the track Sunday is that there is some potential for the system to help but it is going to be very track (traction) sensitive.

im very interested any anything you can dig up!

 

[lindertw]

I remember reading about this a while back...
http://grannys.tripod.com/hillbillyclutchslipper.html

 

[rcm90]

I don't know anyone that has successfully controlled clutch slip through the hydraulic system, but I do know a few that have used a Soft Lok clutch from McLeod with great results. These are for race only cars though..

Have you looked into a quality boost management system? Boost leash and AMS 1k and 2k systems would help out greatly IMO. You could leave with less rpm and little to no boost (with two step/anti-lag to keep the turbine spinning) and quickly ramp in boost based on track surface.

 

[05moneypit]

I don't know anyone that has successfully controlled clutch slip through the hydraulic system, but I do know a few that have used a Soft Lok clutch from McLeod with great results. These are for race only cars though..

Have you looked into a quality boost management system? Boost leash and AMS 1k and 2k systems would help out greatly IMO. You could leave with less rpm and little to no boost (with two step/anti-lag to keep the turbine spinning) and quickly ramp in boost based on track surface.

"slipper clutch" works a lot like a centrifugal clutch...not street friendly at all but a great race clutch.

If the OP is interested I will give him the parts I have. Flow control, pressure switch tubing and fittings. I used the line lock solenoid on another car. I looked for pictures and they are gone. Like others have said it is a band aid...has some merit but really isn't the practical. JMOP.