HitandRunDriver
Amateur Goon
I finally had a weekend open to do some paint correction and apply the SPNS that's been sitting in my detail cabinet since christmas. Pics will come, I didn't have the lighting last night to take any and since it rained today I have a better idea of the water beading capabilities.
Step 1: Wash
Mixed up 1 oz of CG honeydew snow foam and 1 oz of CG Citrus Wash II in my foam lance and sprayed the car. I used about 10 ounces of water as I wanted a stronger pre wash. After the foam had a few minutes to sit, I blasted it off with my pressure washer and then laid down another layer of foam, then used the 2 bucket with CG Citrus Wash II. After cleaning the paint, I clayed the car with a medium clay using FK 425 1:1 as my lubricant. Another pass over with soap and the car was ready to be dried.
Step 2: Correction
Although my car is a daily, it is garaged nightly and my usual commute is 3 miles with one 70 mile day a week. I'm usually the type who will use quick detailer every day or other day to keep the dust off...blame having uncoated black wheels for not washing more as the rotor rust drives me crazy dripping inside the wheel. I'll be coating these soon with a write up...
I broke out my Porter Cable and my blue hydrotech pads using Meguars 105 on the hood, roof, rear deck, and other scratch prone areas such as the rear bumper and doors near the handles. If I had more time I'd have done the whole car with 105. My next step was Meguiars 205 with orange hydrotech pads over the entire car. After this, I switched to the crimson pads and burnished the paint with Menzerna SF 4500.
Step 3: Prep and application
After the final polishing, I was finally able to try out my bottle of Carpro Eraser. I diluted it 1:1 and found that it easily took off all polish residue and smelled way better than normal IPA sprays i've made before. I used CG UFO foam pads (4) to apply the SPNS to the vehicle. NOTE: Don't spray the product directly onto the paint. I did a lot of research before to make sure this was the best method. On the first pad application you'll want a light few sprays of the SPNS to prime the pad. Spray the pad away from the car to make sure any doesn't wander over to your car and land on the paint. Work the product into the paint in 2x2 sections. I wiped the pad first horizontally in my section and then vertically a few times. The product initially beads up on the paint, keep working it in and then immediately wipe off with a clean microfiber. It may seem a bit rubbery and difficult to remove but this from what I read is normal. Continue working each section, swapping pads and towels as needed. I wasn't sure if you needed to toss the pads and towels after application and wipe off, but I kept a bucket of warm water and a snappy pad cleaner for them to soak in before washing. I also used SPNS on some of my exterior trim, it darkened the trim slightly and left a matte finish.
Step 4: Sonax BSD
I let the coating cure for about 24 hours and used a light coat of BSD on the car before heading into work. The paint was great looking before, but I feel the BSD added a little bit of pop to the metal flake and left the surface feeling smoother.
Fast forward to lunch and it was raining...so of course I was a little bummed, but at least this would give me an idea how the coating worked. There was a huge amount of tiny beads on the car when it was stationary and these immediately began flying off the car on the short drive home. I used my blower when in the garage and it easily sheeted all the water off my car in about 15 minutes. On the rocker panels, where I normally would have expected dirt from the tires slinging dirt off the wet road, there was nothing at all.
Pics will follow when I'm off...these will be of the car cleaned only unless it happens to rain again before I get off. Just wanted to share my experience and application methods for those of you on the fence!
Step 1: Wash
Mixed up 1 oz of CG honeydew snow foam and 1 oz of CG Citrus Wash II in my foam lance and sprayed the car. I used about 10 ounces of water as I wanted a stronger pre wash. After the foam had a few minutes to sit, I blasted it off with my pressure washer and then laid down another layer of foam, then used the 2 bucket with CG Citrus Wash II. After cleaning the paint, I clayed the car with a medium clay using FK 425 1:1 as my lubricant. Another pass over with soap and the car was ready to be dried.
Step 2: Correction
Although my car is a daily, it is garaged nightly and my usual commute is 3 miles with one 70 mile day a week. I'm usually the type who will use quick detailer every day or other day to keep the dust off...blame having uncoated black wheels for not washing more as the rotor rust drives me crazy dripping inside the wheel. I'll be coating these soon with a write up...
I broke out my Porter Cable and my blue hydrotech pads using Meguars 105 on the hood, roof, rear deck, and other scratch prone areas such as the rear bumper and doors near the handles. If I had more time I'd have done the whole car with 105. My next step was Meguiars 205 with orange hydrotech pads over the entire car. After this, I switched to the crimson pads and burnished the paint with Menzerna SF 4500.
Step 3: Prep and application
After the final polishing, I was finally able to try out my bottle of Carpro Eraser. I diluted it 1:1 and found that it easily took off all polish residue and smelled way better than normal IPA sprays i've made before. I used CG UFO foam pads (4) to apply the SPNS to the vehicle. NOTE: Don't spray the product directly onto the paint. I did a lot of research before to make sure this was the best method. On the first pad application you'll want a light few sprays of the SPNS to prime the pad. Spray the pad away from the car to make sure any doesn't wander over to your car and land on the paint. Work the product into the paint in 2x2 sections. I wiped the pad first horizontally in my section and then vertically a few times. The product initially beads up on the paint, keep working it in and then immediately wipe off with a clean microfiber. It may seem a bit rubbery and difficult to remove but this from what I read is normal. Continue working each section, swapping pads and towels as needed. I wasn't sure if you needed to toss the pads and towels after application and wipe off, but I kept a bucket of warm water and a snappy pad cleaner for them to soak in before washing. I also used SPNS on some of my exterior trim, it darkened the trim slightly and left a matte finish.
Step 4: Sonax BSD
I let the coating cure for about 24 hours and used a light coat of BSD on the car before heading into work. The paint was great looking before, but I feel the BSD added a little bit of pop to the metal flake and left the surface feeling smoother.
Fast forward to lunch and it was raining...so of course I was a little bummed, but at least this would give me an idea how the coating worked. There was a huge amount of tiny beads on the car when it was stationary and these immediately began flying off the car on the short drive home. I used my blower when in the garage and it easily sheeted all the water off my car in about 15 minutes. On the rocker panels, where I normally would have expected dirt from the tires slinging dirt off the wet road, there was nothing at all.
Pics will follow when I'm off...these will be of the car cleaned only unless it happens to rain again before I get off. Just wanted to share my experience and application methods for those of you on the fence!
