Speed Ventures @ Auto Club Speedway 5-3-2015

[claudermilk]

I did my third track day this weekend, the first with the suspension updates and good weather. The day was a resounding success. I definitely made the right move getting into the intermediate group from the beginners; on the whole the drivers were--as you would expect--a little more experienced with a couple of exceptions. I also was much happier not being as restricted on passing (point-by anywhere & open passing on the front straight).

The first session went well and I got more comfortable with the car.

The second session was, in a word, intense. Conditions were good, and confidence was good. I learned a little about the line through 1 & 2 for higher HP cars, so adjusted. I think I've found a good line through 5 & 6. I got in a quick group of cars, so pushed to hang with them. That resulted in a new personal best lap of 2:02.2. Holy crap! Shaved 4-ish seconds off my best the first time out (second outing was wet).

The third session wasn't as quick, and I just worked on my lines. I also got a pretty good scare late in the session & aborted the rest. There had been reports of some rubber debris after session 2 & I thought that had been picked up. Well, either they missed something or some new junk got dropped. Anyway, heading through 1 & into 2 I head a bang and see a big puff of smoke and something rolling down the banking in my mirror. That will get your attention in a turn at 110-120! =8O I backed out of it & cruised around to the garage. The car felt fine, and nothing amiss in the drivetrain that I could hear or feel. After inspecting the undercarriage, I couldn't see anything amiss and all corners of the car looked good--nothing loose or missing. Brakes & rotors looked well-abused but in good shape.

I took the first couple of laps in session 4 easy, which meant lots of pointing-by. That gave me a front row seat of some stupidity by an over-eager WRX. The dumbass managed to loop out of turn 9 right in front of a whole pack of us. A cayman ended up half on the grass to avoid him while the rest of us got by inside. Plus, he stalled it & couldn't restarts, so everyone got to visit the hot pits briefly. Since my confidence took a little hit the earlier session I wasn't as fast. Probably the track was getting a little greasy & dusty, too.

I did learn a couple of things and am re-prioritizing my upgrade list. First of all, I spent way too much energy holding myself into the seat. This even with the OEM Recaros and a CG Lock on the stock 3-point. I really need a proper 6-point harness. That also means getting the Watson 4-point bolt-in bar to attached said seat belts to. I am friggin' sore today. Second, I now fully understand all the bitching about the MT-82. I have definitely moved to a new level of driving as I kept getting locked out on the 4-5 shift in session 3. It was pissing me of. First thing to try is switch from the MGW street bushing to the race bushing (I have the Blowfish bracket, so expect this to have minimal effect); when I prove that doesn't work, it's time to pull the MGW/BF combo out and spring for the MGW race shifter. I did start shifting earlier where I ran into the issue, but I don't like shifting mid-corner (this was at the end of the "Playground" heading to pit in/front straight).

A few shots from CaliPhotography.

Video of session 2:

 

[SlowJim]

Have you tried the Whiteline trans bushing?

 

[ArizonaGT]

Check the carrier bearing area on your driveshaft. The CV boots in the middle don't like sustained high speeds. They send out a puff of white smoke when the grease inside hits the exhaust. You'll see grease all over the tunnel there if it's let go.

 

[csamsh]

Also...about that seat...just get a real seat. There is no substitute. The difference a real seat makes in your ability to feel what the car is doing, and concentrate on driving rather than staying still, is indescribable. The best I can do is that it's like turning on the lights in a dark room

 

[claudermilk]

Have you tried the Whiteline trans bushing?

Yup. I'm sure it helps for track, but it's a little much for a DD. I still have it, need to get off my butt & get it on the classifieds (along with the Moroso oil separator).

Check the carrier bearing area on your driveshaft. The CV boots in the middle don't like sustained high speeds. They send out a puff of white smoke when the grease inside hits the exhaust. You'll see grease all over the tunnel there if it's let go.

Thanks, I'll check that next time I'm under the car. But I am pretty sure I saw something bouncing down the banking. I'd also expect some bad vibrations if the CV gave up after the initial bang. I'm almost certain it was debris.

Also...about that seat...just get a real seat. There is no substitute. The difference a real seat makes in your ability to feel what the car is doing, and concentrate on driving rather than staying still, is indescribable. The best I can do is that it's like turning on the lights in a dark room

Yeah, I had a 5-point in the last car for autocrossing and it made a world of difference. Since I have planned on the 6-point harnesses and bar all along, I'll start with that. Then if an additional seat upgrade seems necessary, I'll look at my options. Keeping in mind this is a dual-purpose car; after getting home from the track the race tires came out of the back seat & the kid seats went back in. So, I can't get too crazy with the track mods. That's why I was initially looking at the Corbeau bar, and am now focused on the Watson 4-point that I can remove. I'm also looking at doing the eye-bolt mounting for the lap belts so they can come out for DD use (I know I picked Terry's brain about their 2011 project car around here a while back). For the anti-sub belt(s), I am looking at the Wolfe Craft piece here (http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=297); I could fab one up, but probably not any cheaper, and definitely not as clean a weld.

The upshot is I was already planning the mod, I just have realized I need to re-prioritize the order. I was looking at the BMR sways next, but I need to secure myself better and get some additional safety (which will make wifey happier) before making the car faster.

 

[kcbrown]

Yup. I'm sure it helps for track, but it's a little much for a DD. I still have it, need to get off my butt & get it on the classifieds (along with the Moroso oil separator).

Did you remove the "tongue" portion of the WL trans bushing before installing it?

The NVH increase is minimal when you do that. The whole thing will feel more "connected", but you won't feel every little shake of the engine through the transmission, either.

If you did that and it's still too much for daily driving, then you're even more sensitive to NVH than I am, and that's saying a lot, given how much I value ride quality...

 

[claudermilk]

I haven't. I might try that.

I now have the BMR TCA022 (with the axle-side heim joint), and it doesn't bother me. So I don't think I'm too picky about NVH.

 

[claudermilk]

Added a link to the session 2 video in the OP. Yes, I know the telemetry feed is slightly delayed--I got sick of screwing with it for now.

 

[2008 V6]

Hey Chis – I’ve got a couple of laps at Auto Club and I need improvement. I really don’t like this track very much but I can give you a couple of pointers after looking at your video. I can guarantee you a minimum of 3 to 4 easy seconds off your lap time just with different lines - More if you change your brake zones. If I recall, you have a similar suspension set up as I do so I have an idea as to what will work for your car. This isn’t meant as criticism. Just offering some pointers. If your interested I can post here or shoot me a PM. I’m not on this sight very much any more but I’ll get back to you either way.

 

[claudermilk]

@2008 V6: I'll reply here & shoot a PM to tickle you.

I'll be happy to take constructive criticism--this is my third time at the track & third time doing a track day, so I know I have a lot to learn. It's a large part of why I'm subjecting you all to my video. It's actually already helped me in that I noted a bad habit from the street of leaving my hand on the shifter too much--I'm consciously trying to break that habit & am much better this time compared to my Feb outing.

I'm pretty confident in the overall line I'm taking through 3 & 4--anything else just gets you too far outside & too slow exiting 4. 5 & 6 I'm feeling better about, but need to get more consistent. 9 I think I have a clue, but need to refine it. In the Playground area I'm a mess--especially handling that big pothole & exiting onto the oval. I'm also nowhere near what I need to be going through NASCAR 1 & 2. I probably missed some areas of improvement, too. I do know I'm leaving some time on the table by not being 100% aggressive on the throttle--but I'd rather inch up on 9/10-10/10 than overshoot to 11/10 and meet the wall.

I'm starting to play with looking at the exports from RaceChrono Pro in Circuit Tools. I just ran across a post in their support forum to someone who figured out how to manually link your GoPro video. Now to learn how to use that tool.

 

[2008 V6]

@2008 V6: I'll reply here & shoot a PM to tickle you.

I'll be happy to take constructive criticism--this is my third time at the track & third time doing a track day, so I know I have a lot to learn. It's a large part of why I'm subjecting you all to my video. It's actually already helped me in that I noted a bad habit from the street of leaving my hand on the shifter too much--I'm consciously trying to break that habit & am much better this time compared to my Feb outing.

I'm pretty confident in the overall line I'm taking through 3 & 4--anything else just gets you too far outside & too slow exiting 4. 5 & 6 I'm feeling better about, but need to get more consistent. 9 I think I have a clue, but need to refine it. In the Playground area I'm a mess--especially handling that big pothole & exiting onto the oval. I'm also nowhere near what I need to be going through NASCAR 1 & 2. I probably missed some areas of improvement, too. I do know I'm leaving some time on the table by not being 100% aggressive on the throttle--but I'd rather inch up on 9/10-10/10 than overshoot to 11/10 and meet the wall.

I'm starting to play with looking at the exports from RaceChrono Pro in Circuit Tools. I just ran across a post in their support forum to someone who figured out how to manually link your GoPro video. Now to learn how to use that tool.

When I finish typing it up I'll post it. It is long and taking much longer than I figured. Definitely 3 seconds with decent street tires

 

[CobraRed]

Thanks for posting the video, Chris. This is my local track too.
I read your build thread and didn't see it, but was wondering - do you run an oil cooler? Or do you not find the need to/don't really run in summer?

Thanks, and I enjoy your build thread!

 

[2008 V6]

When I first made my comment to help, I was on drugs – Sick – expelling fluids though all orifices a few times a day mostly at he same time. Only once or twice a day now. Normally, only a fool would have said anything but I never stop amazing myself. I opened my mouth. SO let the bashing begin. I do hope this helps you out. This is the fastest way around for me currently. I’ve run AutoClub 3 times and definitely have room for improvement. I personally do not like Auto Club. For me it is a boring track but it is definitely a HP track – V8 friendly. I’m hopping to have our new car up and running in August money permitting. We will meet sometime down the road.
Here ya go.
This is constructive criticism do not take this personally.
You don’t seem to be looking far enough ahead. You can see you exit in every corner at Autoclub before you enter it. Pick you line.
You are not using your brakes. When you do use them it is too early and not hard enough. Brembos with ducts using Carbotec # 8 is all you need for your current speeds. They work good on the street. My wife has been using 10s the last several of months in her now DD without ducts attached very rotor friendly but dusty. These wouldn’t over heat and lasted 2 or three track days. I converted her car to 100% street last year and have been using up all the spare pads and stuff. She has Wilwoood 14” w/ 6 piston super lights only because I know a rep. I could get my pads for free but chose to spend money on Carbotec. You have ABS use it. Your car will be on the bump stops with your springs and the rear will get light. ABS Use it. This track loves trail braking to help rotate our boats.
You do not have enough negative camber. I had to slot my Koni Yellows strut holes and make spacers to fill up the old holes. I could only get 3.3 Degrees of negative camber before the strut body would hit the body. My wife runs on 2 degrees daily. I rotate the tires every oil change or track day. 7.2 degrees of caster .0625” toe out when I changed the camber at the track. That is what it ended up as with 0.00 toe starting.
Use all the track every inch – You paid for it use it. This was told to me years ago but not as politely. My ears ran for a day. All curbs if necessary. Ball joints are sacrificial items just like brake pads and tires. Split the track into sections if necessary and learn the fastest way comfortable in each section before you tackle the next.
Trust your tires. I only heard them twice when you missed you braking point and were over-steering . They should be howling for street tires.
I’m going to start with turn 3 –Pic a point for your brake zone and move it 5 feet each lap until you are confident this is the latest brake zone. (This applies true to every brake point) - Brake HARD and STRAIGHT to scrub speed. Trail brake for a late apex 3. Sacrifice speed so you are able to line up a late apex 4. Drift out on to curb like all exits then track begin tracking right. Pic a point and aim for it. I see many people apex early and not be able to get on the gas until way too late – (4th longest strait). If you take 3 too fast it will hurt you all the way DOWN the straight. You have a high horse power-boat. Use the HP for the most benefit.
5 is a double apex.
I have only scene one person use it that way when I ran there. Great passing zone when you move up in-group.
From the right side of the track brake across track straight into 5. By doing this you will brake later and deeper. Trail brake / Drift out MID – MID – MIDDLE TRACK (Not too close in and definitely not too far out) Apex 6 on the gas you will drift wide into the run off – even all 4 tires. No problem lots of room and you carry your speed all the way down the 3rd longest straight.
6/7 –
I call these turns (Balls) because that is what you need. Easy with our car because it’s slow.
There is a bump as I’m sure you have found out. You lift off the gas way too early and coast wide then coast more and brake while Turing / setting up for 8. You are going to end up backwards on a sight seeing tour. If you keep on the gas, you keep the rear tires loaded, it helps in the transition - keep the wheel pointed right so you can track right, pick your point and brake in a straight line. (Do not stay far left turning while braking) If done right all your braking is straight and more than enough room. By doing this you won’t upset the chassis and carry your speed much father before having to brake – in a straight line. I had to raise my RPM by 300 just so I could take this turn with my foot on the floor in 4th 114 easy. You will be much faster than 114. I only have 190 RWHP in a 3500LBs boat. I tried to short shift to 5th but not as fast.
8 –
Brake straight as possible for a late apex. Typical decreasing radius but very fast entry under hard braking. Trail brake to help rotate, Apex late drift out on the gas. The sooner you are on the gas the more speed you will carry for the 2nd longest straight.
9/10 -

 

[2008 V6]

Depending upon cone placement there isn’t a 9 – 10. You only have to adjust your steering wheel slightly after you exit 8.
11 though 17 is the only part of the track I like.
11 – 12
I don’t have a splitter and I have high ground clearance.
PIC YOUR BRAKE ZONE carefully for 11. In your car you should be seeing around 125+ easily before braking. I only see 115 – top of 4th. I have tied 15 different lines though 11 – 12 all about 3 inches different just to see what will upset my chassis the least. I brake hard and apex 11 early on the curb to straighten out for 12. I put my left wheels straight over the very high curb. This will put your car on 2 wheels. Your line should keep your right inside tires just toughing the 12 apex just past mid way. My left tires don’t touch the ground out of the boundary so legal if done right. They bounce apex to apex. I almost have it - Maybe 5 more tries and I would have had it wired every time. DO not drift wide but stay mid to left as I can. I have a momentum car If I loose speed, it takes forever to pick it up again. By doing this I can carry my speed all the way though 13 & 14.
15 -
I touch the brakes to transfer weight to the front before so I can be on the gas half though 15 almost straitening out for a big dip in the road. I bottom out hard on the gas this causes the rear end to kick. I drift wide and pick up some rubber debris – Off typical line. This all depends upon how liberal cone placement is. 15 leads to the longest straight you should be on the gas early to carry your speed though 16 & 17. Debris scrubs off though 16 & 17.
1-2
If you are on the gas after 15, you can easily see 145+ before reaching one. If you are not comfortable, do not use the whole track but cling the inside edge. You travel a lot less distance. I was able to achieve 115 about 2 car lengths before start / finish with our boat. Anything above 115 and I had vibration issues. I held it at 115 from start finish all the way to 3. Massive amounts of traction. I tried to kick the rear end out twice and no problem with it being light at that speeds. I don’t know at 130+. At 115 I could drive Sss though the bank while reading a book. Mid way between 1&2 if you are hugging the inside edge, pic your point for exit and accelerate up to a decent speed while transitioning thought 2. Stay wide to the right and brake for 3.
Done – Repeat
Hope this helps you,
Let the bashing begin.

 

[claudermilk]

Thanks for posting the video, Chris. This is my local track too.
I read your build thread and didn't see it, but was wondering - do you run an oil cooler? Or do you not find the need to/don't really run in summer?

Thanks, and I enjoy your build thread!

No, not yet. It is on the list of to-dos eventually. So far I've only run in the spring, so no temperature issues yet. I am looking at a proper setup with a Setrab-style HE and thermostat-controlled sandwich plate at the filter mount.

When I first made my comment to help, I was on drugs – Sick – expelling fluids though all orifices a few times a day mostly at he same time. Only once or twice a day now. Normally, only a fool would have said anything but I never stop amazing myself. I opened my mouth. SO let the bashing begin. I do hope this helps you out. This is the fastest way around for me currently. I’ve run AutoClub 3 times and definitely have room for improvement. I personally do not like Auto Club. For me it is a boring track but it is definitely a HP track – V8 friendly. I’m hopping to have our new car up and running in August money permitting. We will meet sometime down the road.
Here ya go.
This is constructive criticism do not take this personally.

No worries. Hope you feel better soon. Constructive criticism is what I'm fishing for.

You don’t seem to be looking far enough ahead. You can see you exit in every corner at Autoclub before you enter it. Pick you line.

No argument there. I'm still learning to look further ahead. I'm still looking at autocross distances probably. Further than complete newbies & your typical commuter drone, but I won't argue that I'm probably not looking far enough out still. So, item #1 to work on.

You are not using your brakes. When you do use them it is too early and not hard enough. Brembos with ducts using Carbotec # 8 is all you need for your current speeds. They work good on the street. My wife has been using 10s the last several of months in her now DD without ducts attached very rotor friendly but dusty. These wouldn’t over heat and lasted 2 or three track days. I converted her car to 100% street last year and have been using up all the spare pads and stuff. She has Wilwoood 14” w/ 6 piston super lights only because I know a rep. I could get my pads for free but chose to spend money on Carbotec. You have ABS use it. Your car will be on the bump stops with your springs and the rear will get light. ABS Use it. This track loves trail braking to help rotate our boats.

Absolutely true! I know I have more braking in the car. I think that is a confidence thing--I need to trust that the car can take it. I have Carbotech 10s in front and 8s in back. No ducts yet, but that's high on the list of to-dos. I also am a Brembo-package car and have upgraded the lines to Vorshlag's and fluid to Motul 600, so only ducts need to be addressed right now. Item #2 to work on.

You do not have enough negative camber. I had to slot my Koni Yellows strut holes and make spacers to fill up the old holes. I could only get 3.3 Degrees of negative camber before the strut body would hit the body. My wife runs on 2 degrees daily. I rotate the tires every oil change or track day. 7.2 degrees of caster .0625” toe out when I changed the camber at the track. That is what it ended up as with 0.00 toe starting.

Without modifying the struts or strut towers I am running -2.75. That is the max as the car sits. Since I still run SCCA Solo II, strut towers are inviolate. I can slot the Konis, but that can be a project for down the road. I do have toe set to zero for OEM camber, so gain a little positive when setting for the track. Eventually I'd like to step up to proper coilovers, so not sure that I want to slot or not. This one will be a lower priority, so at this point in time this one is what it is--but point noted.

Use all the track every inch – You paid for it use it. This was told to me years ago but not as politely. My ears ran for a day. All curbs if necessary. Ball joints are sacrificial items just like brake pads and tires. Split the track into sections if necessary and learn the fastest way comfortable in each section before you tackle the next.

Point taken. I am trying to concentrate on one area at a time to improve. First up was turns 5 & 6--I was really not too happy with my lines through there the first couple of events. I think I'm running a better line (blow off apexing 5 to allow a faster late apex of 6 to gain speed down the following straight). I expect I need to fine-tune it more. I am sure I need to look more closely at where I'm tracking out and allow the car to run to the edge more. Seat time is the answer there I think. Item #3 to work on.

Trust your tires. I only heard them twice when you missed you braking point and were over-steering . They should be howling for street tires.

Yes, correct. I need to get back to what I was doing running R-compounds in G-stock back in the day. I need to remember that "a chirping tire is a happy tire." This event was my first on these tires in the dry, so I was still feeling out the capabilities somewhat (and probably too slowly--there's a reason I'm not making a living doing this--much as I'd love to). I am running 18" RE-11As right now (keep with the 200 treadwear limitation for several classes I run in), so I've got one of the group of better street/track tire available; they are probably plenty good for now & I can wait a while before looking for Conti Challenge takeoffs. Item #4 to work on.

I’m going to start with turn 3 –Pic a point for your brake zone and move it 5 feet each lap until you are confident this is the latest brake zone. (This applies true to every brake point) - Brake HARD and STRAIGHT to scrub speed. Trail brake for a late apex 3. Sacrifice speed so you are able to line up a late apex 4. Drift out on to curb like all exits then track begin tracking right. Pic a point and aim for it. I see many people apex early and not be able to get on the gas until way too late – (4th longest strait). If you take 3 too fast it will hurt you all the way DOWN the straight. You have a high horse power-boat. Use the HP for the most benefit.

Now THIS is what I'm fishing for! OK. Right now I had the end of the white stripe at the base of the wall as my braking point. I spooked myself at some point early in the day & backed it up to the last big tire scuff there--I need to move back out the the paint change & see if I can sneak it further along. I am trying to late apex to "backside" the tire stack a'la autocross "backsiding the cones" to give a better late apex out of 4. I guess I need to keep working on that. Back to item #2.

5 is a double apex.
I have only scene one person use it that way when I ran there. Great passing zone when you move up in-group.
From the right side of the track brake across track straight into 5. By doing this you will brake later and deeper. Trail brake / Drift out MID – MID – MIDDLE TRACK (Not too close in and definitely not too far out) Apex 6 on the gas you will drift wide into the run off – even all 4 tires. No problem lots of room and you carry your speed all the way down the 3rd longest straight.

These two turns are an area I am working on now. I know my line isn't great through here. At the moment, my thinking was ignore trying to apex 5 on the curb so I'm not screwing up the apex on 6 & blowing the entire straight. So I have been aiming to run though the worn-out break in the painted line through 5 (about mid-track) to give me a better approach into 6. That seemed to work. I watched a tool in a GT-R try to run a tight double-apex through there and was impressed with the 4 big black stripes they left--leaning on their AWD to pull the car through.

6/7 –
I call these turns (Balls) because that is what you need. Easy with our car because it’s slow.
There is a bump as I’m sure you have found out. You lift off the gas way too early and coast wide then coast more and brake while Turing / setting up for 8. You are going to end up backwards on a sight seeing tour. If you keep on the gas, you keep the rear tires loaded, it helps in the transition - keep the wheel pointed right so you can track right, pick your point and brake in a straight line. (Do not stay far left turning while braking) If done right all your braking is straight and more than enough room. By doing this you won’t upset the chassis and carry your speed much father before having to brake – in a straight line. I had to raise my RPM by 300 just so I could take this turn with my foot on the floor in 4th 114 easy. You will be much faster than 114. I only have 190 RWHP in a 3500LBs boat. I tried to short shift to 5th but not as fast.

You mean 7/8? The chicane after the second infield straight. Yeah, that's a good name for them. I know I'm coasting more than needed through here. Not big enough balls yet. Looking at my telemetry, I am a little on the gas this last time, but obviously need more. Part of it is learning to trust the car, part is getting a good line to set up for the braking zone. I wonder if I need to ride along with someone who has the right line through here, or have them run my car a couple of laps? This is a challenging spot for me right now. Item #5.

8 –
Brake straight as possible for a late apex. Typical decreasing radius but very fast entry under hard braking. Trail brake to help rotate, Apex late drift out on the gas. The sooner you are on the gas the more speed you will carry for the 2nd longest straight.

Again, I think you mean 9 (this is what SV calls it). I'm thinking my trouble here starts with the line out of the 7/8 chicane. It sounds like maybe I'm too wide too early? I am in a slight turn under braking ,which I am aware is limiting my speed. I am also working on the proper apex spot and how to get the car there. I also suspect I'm not tracking out enough. This is the second challenging spot on the course for me right now. Telemetry is showing at the end of the following straight I'm at ~110-115 and nailing turn 9 should gain a bunch there. Item #6.

To complete the lap, I know the Playground area is just a mess & I need ot work on that. I ended up holding the car tighter to keep inside the big pothole there. I need to use more gas earlier. I need to find a happy place to hit the transition to the banking.

Turns 1 & 2 I'm finally cluing in that I need to move the car up to the wall to enter turn 1 high & run a more normal racing line through there. That is a confidence thing and getting comfortable enough that I can watch around me enough so I don't end up chopping someone who's holding a low line.

This was great info, and exactly the kind of thing I was hoping for. I can take all this and keep it in mind while I'm looking through the telemetry. I've managed to link the GoPro video to the RaceChrono file on the phone & tablet, so can look at that; I'm still fighting with trying to tweak a .vbo export to manually link the video for looking at it in Circuit Tools--no joy so far.

 

[CobraRed]

No, not yet. It is on the list of to-dos eventually. So far I've only run in the spring, so no temperature issues yet. I am looking at a proper setup with a Setrab-style HE and thermostat-controlled sandwich plate at the filter mount.

Right-o. I've been doing a lot of research and will be putting together 3 American made kits in a couple months for myself and a few others with parts i can get through work and Earl's Performance coolers.

FYI it seems you get around 1 degree reduction per each 1,950BTU if mounted in a high pressure area, 1/2,075 BTU or so if mounted mid radiator area non discriminant for 85-95 degree ambient track temp. Above 70-75,000BTU this relationship tapers off.

Of course the larger you get the less likely you can fit it in a high pressure area, and temps above 250 have a higher temp drop than below 250 and average track speed and average rpm play on this average as well. But this seems to be a good guide based on the results and MFG published test's I've seen.

 

[2008 V6]

Chris – Your right about the numbers, I was pulling from memory. I called 5 as being one U-turn instead of 5-6. All other turns after are one number off.
I guarantee you will be faster in your car with your current suspension if you use 5 – 6 as a double mid apex.
Braking hard left across the track right midway into center apex 5 trail brake off to mid track between 5 & 6, rotate rear and on gas to apex 6 midway, drift out on gas to run off, 4 tires off no problem – lots of room. You will carry more speed all the way down the track.
If you feel confident left foot braking you will not upset the chassis as much transitioning to the gas. Very difficult because of down shift entering 5.
A lot of people do not like left foot braking because it eats up the brakes. ON GAS AND BRAKES AT THE SAME TIME TRANSITIONING. It also is such a minimal difference during transition that it could be considered redundant but it works for me. I’m not running an endurance race but looking for a few fast laps.
Salmonella poisoning – I haven’t been this sick for a vey long time. I’m definitely past the worst of it. 10 days and still going.

 

[2008 V6]

Don’t slot your Konis, You will never be able to resell them when you up grade to proper coil overs

 

[claudermilk]

Chris – Your right about the numbers, I was pulling from memory. I called 5 as being one U-turn instead of 5-6. All other turns after are one number off.
I guarantee you will be faster in your car with your current suspension if you use 5 – 6 as a double mid apex.
Braking hard left across the track right midway into center apex 5 trail brake off to mid track between 5 & 6, rotate rear and on gas to apex 6 midway, drift out on gas to run off, 4 tires off no problem – lots of room. You will carry more speed all the way down the track.
If you feel confident left foot braking you will not upset the chassis as much transitioning to the gas. Very difficult because of down shift entering 5.
A lot of people do not like left foot braking because it eats up the brakes. ON GAS AND BRAKES AT THE SAME TIME TRANSITIONING. It also is such a minimal difference during transition that it could be considered redundant but it works for me. I’m not running an endurance race but looking for a few fast laps.
Salmonella poisoning – I haven’t been this sick for a vey long time. I’m definitely past the worst of it. 10 days and still going.

Thanks, I'll try that next time out. Yeah, there's lots of runoff space exiting 6, so the track can absorb a mistake there pretty well.

I have not developed the skill at left foot braking (yet). I'm leaving that & trail braking as a project for later. I want to get the basics down before trying to tackle more advanced techniques. I understand the benefits in theory--just need to calibrate the feet & butt.

Ugh, I don't ever want to get Salmonella poisoning, sounds miserable. Hope you get better soon.

Don’t slot your Konis, You will never be able to resell them when you up grade to proper coil overs

I wasn't too sure about the idea when I first installed so I left it alone. Now I'd have to take the suspension apart to do it, so it wasn't likely to happen anyway. I think I will live with the current setup until I'm ready to just swap to a proper coilover one.

Again, thanks for the input. From the PM I was half expecting a "you dumbass, you're doing xyz wrong there" comment.

BTW, I finally got the modified .vbo file working in Circuit Tools, so can start using a real analysis tool. Just need to get the timing & video synced tonight and off I go. So I'll have speed, location, throttle position, g-force, and now video. That's probably plenty to look at while learning to use the tool. With using the Garmin Glonass external GPS, accuracy is almost good enough to look at lines, too.

 

[2008 V6]

This line is not aggressive enough but gives you the idea

Transition 12 - 13

13

These pics were e-mailed to me by a guy I met at the track

One more pic - Different angle close but stile not right