Spydershaft Driveshaft Install!

[KIMMER]

The install is a breeze, you'll be very happy with that d/s!

 

[TheBOSS]

I'm calling the company I got mine from Monday and I'm going to return it! I just put all new rear suspension and adjusted my PA and it still hits the floor pan....

Sydershaft here I come!!

 

[KIMMER]

Boss, what's the diameter of the one you currently have? The spydershaft is a 4" to 3" taper, maybe thats the reason the spyder doesn't hit. Just a thought.

 

[TheBOSS]

Boss, what's the diameter of the one you currently have? The spydershaft is a 4" to 3" taper, maybe thats the reason the spyder doesn't hit. Just a thought.

Hmmmm.....No taper for sure and I'm thinking its a 4" diam.

The stock shaft is going on tomorrow.....The Syder will be my next purchase as long as they'll take this one back?!?

 

[don_w]

ohnoesaz, Welcome to the Forum!!

 

[Newbreedgt05]

Add me to the list of satisfied Spydershaft owners! I just installed mine last night. It took a little longer than normal since I have the Cervinis side exhaust, but it was still fairly easy. A definite improvement in acceleration and I couldn't be happier!

 

[TheBOSS]

Add me to the list of satisfied Spydershaft owners! I just installed mine last night. It took a little longer than normal since I have the Cervinis side exhaust, but it was still fairly easy. A definite improvement in acceleration and I couldn't be happier!

I put my stock back on and I could feel the difference for sure......Hopefully I can return it and get my money so I can go the Syder route.

 

[Charlie Sheen]

Please put step #8 in BOLD TYPE. It may save someone a few dollars...

 

[KIMMER]

Please put step #8 in BOLD TYPE. It may save someone a few dollars...

Done

 

[MrClean]

Done

What could happen if its not torqued to between 125 nd 150 lbft?

 

[ZmanM3]

What could happen if its not torqued to between 125 nd 150 lbft?

Mr. Roper tore up his rear end because of that.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

Another addendum: The Spydershaft does NOT clear the rear BMR driveshaft loop/tunnel brace with a 1.25" F and 1.75" R dropped ride height. One good bump was all it took for me to hear the shaft hit the brace, more on the rebound side than the jounce side. I pulled the brace/loop set, and inspected the shaft. There is a circumfrential scuff, but no groove per se, and still no driveline vibrations! This is one tough shaft.

 

[don_w]

I wouldn't (and don't) even run a rear loop on a 1-pc shaft.

 

[MrClean]

This is one tough shaft.

That's what she said!

 

[SoundGuyDave]

I wouldn't (and don't) even run a rear loop on a 1-pc shaft.

Mine was left over from the stocker... I figured, what the hell, can't be too safe, right? Wrong. Fortunately, all I did was "tick" the thing once, no groove, just scuffed.

 

[LSlayer]

Another addendum: The Spydershaft does NOT clear the rear BMR driveshaft loop/tunnel brace with a 1.25" F and 1.75" R dropped ride height. One good bump was all it took for me to hear the shaft hit the brace, more on the rebound side than the jounce side. I pulled the brace/loop set, and inspected the shaft. There is a circumfrential scuff, but no groove per se, and still no driveline vibrations! This is one tough shaft.

I just put the rear loop in and it looks like it has sufficent room but now I'm going to inspect mine tommorow. I haven't heard any rubbing yet. BTW: I'm running Eibach pro-kit springs (1.3 front 1.4 rear)

Also I want to know if anyone else has or has had to but black silicone behind their pinion nut? I had a leak coming from behind there and one of the local shops told me to do this and so far its working(figures crossed). I can even tell a difference since I don't smell gear oil behind the car. Might be worth it for guys installing the shaft just to do it to prevent any leaks. Just remember to let it cure for an hour before driving.

 

[MrClean]

FYI Spyder, Kimmer's initial post on the install write-up says that detailed instructions come with the shaft, but none came in my box.

 

[Johnmichael]

Thanks for write-up. Just a few questions to be sure I do this the correct way.

Are the instructions the same for autos?

What are the torque specs on both the tranny & pinion flange bolts, and is the X pattern the proper bolt install method?

Which, if any bolts or nuts are supplied with the Spyder, and which if any do Ford recommend replacing after removal?

Is the picture and description in Step 5 referring to this pic? (borrowed from Taco Bill):

LSlayer, so you're saying to put a bead of RTV on the backside of the pinion nut before fastening it?

 

[LSlayer]

Not really on the nut just on the flat area where it seats. Torque specs for the bolts on the tranny output and pinion flange are 76ft-lbs and yes make sure you torque them in a X pattern to prevent warping the flange. Spyder will provide you with new bolts for the pinion flange but you can re-use the ones for the output flange.

And yep step five is referring to the bolts in that pic.

 

[MrClean]

Thanks for write-up. Just a few questions to be sure I do this the correct way.

Are the instructions the same for autos?
Don't know will let Spyder answer.

What are the torque specs on both the tranny & pinion flange bolts, and is the X pattern the proper bolt install method?

Yes X pattern OEM specs are 76 lb ft tranny and 41 lb ft pinion, but since the pinion flange is replaced and the pinion bolts supplied with the Spyder are the same as the tranny bolts (they aren't in OEM), I torqued to 76 lb ft also.

Which, if any bolts or nuts are supplied with the Spyder, and which if any do Ford recommend replacing after removal?

The manual says both the tranny and pinion bolts should be replaced (Spyder provides the pinion bolts)...UNLESS you use "a medium strength thread locker" (red loctite) DON'T FORGET THE LOCTITE! I did, and now have to wait till my tune-tweaking session to remove-apply-red_loctite&re-torque on all 8...my wife won't let me do the 4 jack-stand thing...freaks her out...

see above