Sunday Dyno Day in Fresno, CA

[shikwann]

Let me know what you think about these Horsepower #'s and A/F ratio
So I installed many bolt ons and recently got into custom email tunes since I purchased my CMCD delete plates. Anywho here's my list of mods


Hurst shifter
Adj. PHB
Eibach pro kit springs
Tockico HP Blue shocks
Camber bolts
GT500 rear sway bar
UMI Roto-joint Red LCAs


Borla Stinger axle back
SLP Hi flow cats w/ an X pipe
C&L Racer intake
Saleen UDPs
CMDP Delete Plates
Airaid spacer
Mutha Thumper Cams
Diablo sport Predator

I recently got an update tune from brookspeed because I felt that my idle at times was kind of low to my liking, he said that no update was necessary for the SLP hi-flo cats that I installed after the mutha thumpers (Also the mutha thumpers don't have the phaser limiters installed).

So anyway, I went to a dyno day on Sunday in Fresno and I was a little shocked at my gains. I'm a total newbie when it comes to dyno graphs as this is my first one. I know that the A/F is supposed to be 14.5 right? The guy dynoing my car said it needed a tune BAD! According to him he said I should be about 320whp. I talked to a few people there, and they said my a/f was off and I agreed after they explained. I'll be sending Eric a copy of my dyno reading to see if he can make some tweaks to the tune.

Let me know what your opinions are, I have attached the graph as well.
btw I was told the dyno was SAE.

 

[shikwann]

ttt

 

[shikwann]

ttt

 

[Fast64ranchero]

I feel for you, and welcome to my world, (306hp and 294 ft lbs,) dyno has alot to do with it, and no your not too rich, max power seems to be around 13 to 1 on a N/A car, and your right there,

 

[shikwann]

I feel for you, and welcome to my world, (306hp and 294 ft lbs,) dyno has alot to do with it, and no your not too rich, max power seems to be around 13 to 1 on a N/A car, and your right there,

So if I'm loosing 15% = 45 hp through drive train then that should yield to my rwhp? Man that blows : (
I think it may be also due to my heavy rims and tires (GT500 stocks). I've heard of dynos being different too...
Also I thought this was rather peculiar, there was a 07 mustang gt with axle backs, drop in k&n filter and jba shorty headers and he got 298 hp! I thought that was not accurate! There was no way! Like I said the tuner said I should be seeing 330 hp at the wheels! He charges 300 to tune my car...hmmm. Anyone else with advice?

 

[shatter]

These are your performance items..

SLP Hi flow cats w/ an X pipe - ? hp
C&L Racer intake - 25 hp
CMDP Delete Plates - 5 hp
Airaid spacer - ? hp
Mutha Thumper Cams - 20 hp
Diablo sport Predator - Included in CAI number

I assume you have a manual transmission based on your comment of 15% drivetrain loss. It will be higher if you run an automatic.

Let's assume you make 260 rwhp bone stock (240 rwhp with an automatic). You have 50 rwhp in mods. This gives you a final HP number of 310 rwhp. You are at 306 rwhp. Now all my numbers assume ideal conditions and your dyno pull was not done under ideal conditions. The dyno graph shows STD correction factor instead of SAE. Most people know that showing STD numbers read higher but not many know why. SAE represents more realistic standard conditions, STD artificially boosts numbers.

Identifying Your Correction Factor:
Dynojet:
If you look at a dynojet graph in the upper right corner, you will see where it says the correction method being used. The options are SAE, STD, Uncorrected and a few not needed for discussion. You will also notice a smooth factor (up to 5) which dyno operators use to make the power curves and any other data displayed, such as AFR, seem more accurate and smooth. You will also see AFR graphs scaled DOWN to hide flaws in the curve.

MD:
A Mustang Dyno ONLY uses SAE Corrections. Smoothing can also be controlled as well as scale for the Graphical Outputs.


Overview:
Most of the stated horsepower numbers are “Corrected” values. The correction standards were developed to discount the observed horsepower readings taken at different locations and weather conditions. It is obvious that an engine builder in Colorado could not produce as much horsepower as a shop at sea level. There is just less oxygen for the engine to burn at the higher altitude. What are less obvious are the other weather condition effects on the engine. So in order to compensate for this all advertised horsepower is “corrected” to several different industry standards.

SAE:
"SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), USA. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg (99 kPa) of dry air and 77 F (25°C). This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque.

STD:
STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4 % higher than the SAE power numbers. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard."

Based on the numbers shown for temp, etc. on your dyno chart showing a CF of 1.0, I would assume your numbers are "corrected." Someone else on here could discuss that issue better than I.

 

[shikwann]

These are your performance items..

SLP Hi flow cats w/ an X pipe - ? hp
C&L Racer intake - 25 hp
CMDP Delete Plates - 5 hp
Airaid spacer - ? hp
Mutha Thumper Cams - 20 hp
Diablo sport Predator - Included in CAI number

I assume you have a manual transmission based on your comment of 15% drivetrain loss. It will be higher if you run an automatic.

Let's assume you make 260 rwhp bone stock (240 rwhp with an automatic). You have 50 rwhp in mods. This gives you a final HP number of 310 rwhp. You are at 306 rwhp. Now all my numbers assume ideal conditions and your dyno pull was not done under ideal conditions. The dyno graph shows STD correction factor instead of SAE. Most people know that showing STD numbers read higher but not many know why. SAE represents more realistic standard conditions, STD artificially boosts numbers.

Identifying Your Correction Factor:
Dynojet:
If you look at a dynojet graph in the upper right corner, you will see where it says the correction method being used. The options are SAE, STD, Uncorrected and a few not needed for discussion. You will also notice a smooth factor (up to 5) which dyno operators use to make the power curves and any other data displayed, such as AFR, seem more accurate and smooth. You will also see AFR graphs scaled DOWN to hide flaws in the curve.

MD:
A Mustang Dyno ONLY uses SAE Corrections. Smoothing can also be controlled as well as scale for the Graphical Outputs.


Overview:
Most of the stated horsepower numbers are “Corrected” values. The correction standards were developed to discount the observed horsepower readings taken at different locations and weather conditions. It is obvious that an engine builder in Colorado could not produce as much horsepower as a shop at sea level. There is just less oxygen for the engine to burn at the higher altitude. What are less obvious are the other weather condition effects on the engine. So in order to compensate for this all advertised horsepower is “corrected” to several different industry standards.

SAE:
"SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), USA. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg (99 kPa) of dry air and 77 F (25°C). This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque.

STD:
STD is Another power correction standard determined by the SAE. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4 % higher than the SAE power numbers. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard."

Based on the numbers shown for temp, etc. on your dyno chart showing a CF of 1.0, I would assume your numbers are "corrected." Someone else on here could discuss that issue better than I.

Thanks a bunch for "esplaining" it to me!

Tuner swore up and down that I needed a tune "badly" maybe he's trying to jack me of my money?

 

[08nastygt]

Your sittin about right because a full bolt on car will pull 330s to I've seen 350's. So add in some pulleys, long tubes and a driveshaft and your prollly looking at another 30hp.

 

[shikwann]

Your sittin about right because a full bolt on car will pull 330s to I've seen 350's. So add in some pulleys, long tubes and a driveshaft and your prollly looking at another 30hp.

OOps! I have Saleen UDPs! I forgot to add that to the list!