Switch C&L manifold for FRPP manifold?

[Sprayer84]

I feel like I'm not getting as much out of my C&L manifold because I'm only going to 6400rpm and on a stock bottom end. Maybe if if had a stroker motor or had head work to rev higher I may get more out of it. I am considering putting it on a self for now and buying a FRPP manifold to get more torque. Does anybody have experience with both manifolds? Also, with the FRPP manifold being plastic, how would I tap it for an IAT sensor if I want to add a meth kit?

Forgot to mention this is on a turbo car.

 

[Rasmus]

Yes, got both. Drilled and tapped both for IAT sensors without any issues. Power difference between the two was negligible in the grand scheme of things.

 

[Renesis07]

Sidenote, let me know if you decide to dump that C&L.... I'm in search of one..

 

[BruceH]

You will lose torque with the frpp manifold when compared to stock. That was my experience anyway.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

The C&L weighs more than the FRPP...32 lbs is a lot for an intake!

 

[Renesis07]

The C&L weighs more than the FRPP...32 lbs is a lot for an intake!

Wow! Didn't realize it weighed that much. Is it true you can see some decent gains with cams on these manifolds (C&L or FRPP)? I seem to be reading conflicting information at times. Some people say NA it's a waste of cash, other people seem to love them with cams and other modifications. I intend to stay N/A with my build, so I've been trying to get some accurate information.

 

[Sprayer84]

So basically I should just leave it be. Or perhaps put the stock manifold back on with some delete plates.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

If you are NA I would not do the FRPP/C&L intake; they are great for FI applications or those with ported heads/high left cams. I watched a full bolt on 3V dyno with the stock intake and then the FRPP intake and the FRPP intake gained 5 hp.

 

[Renesis07]

If you are NA I would not do the FRPP/C&L intake; they are great for FI applications or those with ported heads/high left cams. I watched a full bolt on 3V dyno with the stock intake and then the FRPP intake and the FRPP intake gained 5 hp.

So would it be a waste to pair them with Comp cams (stage 2)? That's what I was planning on going with. I did some research on ported heads but wasn't sure it was worth the coin. My goals are 350whp, I'm currently at 313whp with basic bolt ons (headers, intake, CMDP, UD pulleys, Tune) so I was hoping to pick up 30-40 more whp N/A and pair it with a 4.10 gear to give the car some more kick without going boost (since I'm not prepared to build up the motor yet).

 

[JoshK]

I am still running a stock intake Sprayer, you can push a lot of air through the stock one and make good power.

 

[Sprayer84]

I am still running a stock intake Sprayer, you can push a lot of air through the stock one and make good power.

I may sell it and buy some steeda delete plates. Or just keep it on hand for later. Drivability I think will be a lot better for a daily driver with a stock manifold.

 

[Sprayer84]

I don't think I'm gaining enough top end to justify the loss in the mid range.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

If you have the delete plates your NA gains will be the same as the FRPP/C&L intake and for a lot less money.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

So would it be a waste to pair them with Comp cams (stage 2)? That's what I was planning on going with. I did some research on ported heads but wasn't sure it was worth the coin. My goals are 350whp, I'm currently at 313whp with basic bolt ons (headers, intake, CMDP, UD pulleys, Tune) so I was hoping to pick up 30-40 more whp N/A and pair it with a 4.10 gear to give the car some more kick without going boost (since I'm not prepared to build up the motor yet).

Not sure what the specs are on those cams but the full bolt on car had the BBR Stg 1 cams in them. Concur with the ported heads not being worth it by themselves, 20 hp for $2500+ is not worth it.

 

[Taxman]

I've got the FRPP manifold and it's been great. No problem tapping it for the iat sensor either. I've got a blower so I guess it's different but I didn't have any noticeable loss of torque or hp. It's super light compared to the C&L.

 

[Greg Hazlett]

^^ you won't, they work great for FI, just not NA.

 

[JoshK]

You guys do realize that Sprayer has a turbo kit right?

 

[Greg Hazlett]

You guys do realize that Sprayer has a turbo kit right?

No...that would have been nice to know from the beginning............in that case you should have seen good gains from the C&L and other than weight savings I see no reason to sway it for the FRPP.

 

[Renesis07]

If you have the delete plates your NA gains will be the same as the FRPP/C&L intake and for a lot less money.

hmmm... that's really good to know, since I do have CMDP

Not sure what the specs are on those cams but the full bolt on car had the BBR Stg 1 cams in them. Concur with the ported heads not being worth it by themselves, 20 hp for $2500+ is not worth it.

Awesome, thanks for the help. I think cam + gear is really the extent of what I'm going to go N/A. Seems like anything past that isn't worth it, and that's when adding boost becomes the bang for the buck.

 

[Sprayer84]

No...that would have been nice to know from the beginning............in that case you should have seen good gains from the C&L and other than weight savings I see no reason to sway it for the FRPP.

My bad, I'll edit my original post to reflect that. I forget that not everybody knows. I think the C&L was difficult to tune on the drivability side. Was hoping that intake was why my toque was so low. Way lower than I expected. Seems like I have to really rap this thing out to get it going.