The "Right" Cam

[FAST3V]

Yea, using a hose and other random crap is how it's been down around here. Maybe we've been doing it the hard way. Will look into this special tool especially if I'm going to consider locking them out all together.

 

[lito]

Whatever you think is safe, the thing is that the chain wont move in the crank sprocket, that's all that is needed.

Edit: If considering locking them out, ask where the designer want them locked but that would necessarily mean the front cover has to come off and replace the crank gear for the adjustable TFS.

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Just a thought, Leo...the front timing cover won't be that much of an issue to remove: we'll pull the front crank pulley anyways, and you'll have the valve covers off.
If you want to opt for the fixed-timing setup, we can certainly set that up.

But otherwise, we'll keep the chain tight and intact where it is.

 

[FAST3V]

Food for thought. Have you not considered locking yours out Mike?

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Nope. But I was looking at doing it for one of the projects I was telling you about.

 

[BruceH]

Yea, using a hose and other random crap is how it's been down around here. Maybe we've been doing it the hard way. Will look into this special tool especially if I'm going to consider locking them out all together.

It's a wedge. The Ford Rotunda or Freedom Racing version will work just fine. Both are shaped in a manner that allows it to be twisted into place firmly locking the chain. Just make sure you mark the chain and phaser for reassembly.

 

[FAST3V]

Does anyone have anything against the BBR phaser lockouts?

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbrcamlockouts.html

^^^These are the ones I'm going to order unless other smart people advise otherwise.

 

[BruceH]

Does anyone have anything against the BBR phaser lockouts?

http://www.blowbyracing.com/bbrcamlockouts.html

^^^These are the ones I'm going to order unless other smart people advise otherwise.

They work fine. So should these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Set-of-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ea72203e&vxp=mtr

 

[FAST3V]

Ok, so what the hell....

Just ordered my new turbo grinds today....& Mark @ Bullet says I have to "Degree them in the motor at 110". Which would make the intake, 110, and the exhaust, 120.

I thought there was only one way to do the timing. Is this because my cams were designed for my phaser lockouts?

I was hoping to install these new cams without taking the front cover off.

 

[BruceH]

Ok, so what the hell....

Just ordered my new turbo grinds today....& Mark @ Bullet says I have to "Degree them in the motor at 110". Which would make the intake, 110, and the exhaust, 120.

I thought there was only one way to do the timing. Is this because my cams were designed for my phaser lockouts?

I was hoping to install these new cams without taking the front cover off.

I would think he's telling you that your icl is 110. If it isn't then why would he grind them at a different icl?

 

[BadPiggy]

Here's what I'd like to know...

If a person does lock their cams out...
Does that mean you definitely have to use the VCT Blockoff Plates?

 

[JeremyH]

Mine are 110 icl as well, just swapped them in up top using the garden hose method. lol

 

[BruceH]

Here's what I'd like to know...

If a person does lock their cams out...
Does that mean you definitely have to use the VCT Blockoff Plates?

No, not at all. Mine are locked out and I still have the original parts installed.

 

[lito]

No, not at all. Mine are locked out and I still have the original parts installed.

^ This but there is an oiling advantage if you do it.

 

[FAST3V]

My ICL is indeed 110.
So my brain is working correctly, right? I just install them as I have every other cam. Same timing...line up the same chain spot on the sprocket...

What is the oiling advantage?

 

[JeremyH]

Install them with the same lobe orientation as the current cams and just make sure the chain doesn't skip a tooth on the phaser and you'll be fine.

 

[BruceH]

My ICL is indeed 110.
So my brain is working correctly, right? I just install them as I have every other cam. Same timing...line up the same chain spot on the sprocket...

What is the oiling advantage?

Yes, just like any other cam. Degreeing makes sure they are on but with modern machinery it shouldn't be a problem. I'd hope that a set of custom ground cams would be spot on.

 

[Department Of Boost]

There is a Ford tool to lock the chains against the guides, some people use a hose, others a vise grip, I won't get into the discussion of what is best because I think is an already beat path in this forum. But yes, there is a tool used for cam swaps.

I like the "here, hold this for a second" method.

 

[FAST3V]

I did some more research on degreeing the cams in. Apparently...when we install our cams, they could be off 5-8*. I don't know how this is possible. It doesn't creat any issues or clearance problems, but steals horsepower.

A friend of mine with a 1400hp SN95 race car told me that he degree'd the cams that were already in his car and picked up over 100rwhp from doing so, and SWEARS by degreeing in your cams.

Now this leaves me with, how the hell do you do it without taking the front cover off. I'm going to call Bullet and ask them how they do it.

 

[Department Of Boost]

IDK how you would do it without removing the front cover. I also don't understand how people are doing it correctly without manual cam chain tensioners either though.