Yes, but the UCA does the same thing. You're adjusting the angle by lengthening or shortening a link. Doesn't matter if you're changing it at the top or bottom, you just have two to worry about rather than one. One perk is LCA's are much easier to get to than the UCA. If you have all three adjustable links (which you will have if you go with spherical bearings), then you can set your pinion angle and fore-aft axle location independently (to an extent, of course).
My LCA brackets threw my rear axle off, one axle was 5/8" closer to the frame than the other (I'm not the only person who encountered this, it's just a caveat of aftermarket parts as I am sure you know). Adjustable LCA's allowed me to square it back up. I was able to get it nuts on with a simple tape measure, it's not rocket science (verified on a laser alignment machine while I had it in getting weighted, was off .05 degrees.."We're not touching it!").
If your alignment shop can't get your axle squared up with adjustable LCA's, run far far away because they're morons. That said, with some patience, a DIY alignment is not hard on these cars; just a bit tedious the first couple times. Maybe plan on having it checked afterwards to confirm your measurements and reassure yourself.
Goddamnit, you reeled me back in..
Beer's on me.
Don't have an alignment shop here in Charlotte, I'm still new to this city. I do most things myself as far as installs and squaring things up initially anyway but the biggest thing I can't get over, in your case at least, is if the relocation brackets move the mounting location, then you compensate with the shortening of one side of the LCA's, isn't that going to throw off the arc in which your axle moves... essentially at ride height it's dead ass one but during a bump the side with the shorter LCA is going to move in a different arc than the outside causing the axle to not be perfectly square as it was before right?