To build or to buy

[Onelildude]

I could do a FRPP B53 for close to what it would cost to build (pistons, rods, machining and misc parts) my stock motor (2010 4.6 - 96K miles). What would the pro's/con's of building vs buying be?

 

[NUTCASE]

It comes down to how much skill you have. Building is always cheaper, but requires time and skill. Some of us have the skill but not the time, some the time but not the skill, some of us have neither, but the money to spend.

I personally am not confident enough to do a shortblock. So I would have that built and I would do the rest myself. Plus if you find a reputable shop, and they do it, and it breaks, you can point a finger at somebody. If you build it yourself and it breaks you only have yourself to blame and may end up paying somebody to fix what you broke.

 

[Onelildude]

I have the ability to build and the time to do it...not in a rush, but why would i build mine when i can buy a bigger better one?

 

[Department Of Boost]

If you buy you have a spare core.

 

[BruceH]

I have the ability to build and the time to do it...not in a rush, but why would i build mine when i can buy a bigger better one?

If you are looking for insane power numbers then the stock block is the one you want to build.

How in the world is building your own block going to cost the same as a FRPP block? You are starting with your own block and adding pistons, rods, and maybe a crank along with rings and bearings. Machine work usually runs me $1100 if I have to have the deck surfaced along with a bore, hone, ring fitting, crank polish, balance, etc. If it's just a hone, rings, and balance the bill is around $600.

Worst case I'm seeing you spending $3000 total but probably less depending. Is FRPP selling the 5.3 for $3000?

 

[v8venomgt]

The b53 is $5k+

 

[stkjock]

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122331

 

[MassMustang]

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122331

Interesting option. I'm personally still thinking it's better to build the stock 3V block and stroke it to 302cid.

 

[Pentalab]

Is the block in the 12/13 Boss 5.0 eng, cast iron..or aluminum ?

 

[stkjock]

aluminum

 

[Racer47]

I have the ability to build and the time to do it...not in a rush, but why would i build mine when i can buy a bigger better one?

I'm in the exact same position. Trying to decide between buying a M-6009-B53 or building my engine. I'm at 480 rwhp (stock engine) and want to be at 600 or so.

Biggest advantage for the B53 is displacement. Its 15% or 43 ci bigger. Thats roughly 70 hp more just from displacement. Which means I can spin the supercharger slower and make less heat for the same 600 hp.

The biggest disadvantage to the B53 is cast iron which I'm guessing is 75 lbs heavier than the alum 4.6. Why the hell is Ford making aluminum 351's and cast iron modulars??? If the B53 was alum, I'd already have one.

Biggest advantage to keeping the 4.6 is cost. I would only buy pistons, rods, oil pump, bearings, etc. I don't need a crank to make 600 whp. Plus I'm not thrilled about the bore / stroke / rod length that you get with stroking the 4.6 just to get 20 ci's.

After its all done, the price difference is going be maybe $2000, give or take. Does 2 grand matter? Not really. Plus with the B53 you dont have to deal with machine shops so the job will be quicker, easier and with less chances to mess it up. You just end up with an even more nose heavy car.

 

[Department Of Boost]

Biggest advantage for the B53 is displacement. Its 15% or 43 ci bigger. Thats roughly 70 hp more just from displacement. Which means I can spin the supercharger slower and make less heat for the same 600 hp.

Splitting hairs here. You will still need to spin the blower the same speed. But the charge temps will be lower because it will have less boost.

The biggest disadvantage to the B53 is cast iron which I'm guessing is 75 lbs heavier than the alum 4.6. Why the hell is Ford making aluminum 351's and cast iron modulars??? If the B53 was alum, I'd already have one.

This, I would go 5.3 in a second if it wasn't for the extra weight.

 

[MassMustang]

I would go 5.3 in a second if it wasn't for the extra weight.

+1 Why is there no aluminum 5.3L?!?! Geesh!

The B326 is another good option, but again with a cast iron block, you might as well buy a used 07-09 GT500 considering build costs. I'd prefer to keep my aluminum block but longterm, wouldn't mind having the 302 stroker.

 

[NUTCASE]

I will take a guess and say it has something to do with thinner cylinder walls associated with boring out a mod motor.

 

[MassMustang]

I will take a guess and say it has something to do with thinner cylinder walls associated with boring out a mod motor.

In regards to a 326 stroker for the stock block? Agreed. But I question why the bigger blocks aren't aluminum. I'm no expert though.

 

[NUTCASE]

The block might have some extra beef on it, but you are still restricted to bore spacing.

 

[BruceH]

In regards to a 326 stroker for the stock block? Agreed. But I question why the bigger blocks aren't aluminum. I'm no expert though.

You want the cammer block. They run about $5k just for the block and they are known to not like boost too much. IIRC JDM had or still has a few of the blocks for sale.

The Big Bore Boss block weighs about 70 pounds more than the stock 3v aluminum block plus you have to use motor mount adapters that add a few pounds.

I don't think it makes much difference (the weight). You can build a stock 3v to hold about as much power as you want to make. Nobody knows how much a Big Bore block is going to hold. I was able to make about 585rwhp with 7-8psi of boost with my 322 cubic inch motor. That was with a conservative tune and e85. To make those same numbers with a stock displacement 3v it took about 15-16psi and e85 with 9.5 compression and about 12psi with 11:1 and cnc heads.

IMO the big bore really shines with an na application. For a boosted application all you really need is more boost to make more power, i.e. the boost makes up for displacement and mod motors love boost.

 

[MassMustang]

You want the cammer block. They run about $5k just for the block and they are known to not like boost too much. IIRC JDM had or still has a few of the blocks for sale.

The Big Bore Boss block weighs about 70 pounds more than the stock 3v aluminum block plus you have to use motor mount adapters that add a few pounds.

I don't think it makes much difference (the weight). You can build a stock 3v to hold about as much power as you want to make. Nobody knows how much a Big Bore block is going to hold. I was able to make about 585rwhp with 7-8psi of boost with my 322 cubic inch motor. That was with a conservative tune and e85. To make those same numbers with a stock displacement 3v it took about 15-16psi and e85 with 9.5 compression and about 12psi with 11:1 and cnc heads.

IMO the big bore really shines with an na application. For a boosted application all you really need is more boost to make more power, i.e. the boost makes up for displacement and mod motors love boost.

I plan on getting boosted (Novi 1200 or 2200) so I'll be starting with my stock block. I'm just leaning towards forged internals to support more boost down the road. I figure why not do a forged stroker kit.

 

[Onelildude]

If you are looking for insane power numbers then the stock block is the one you want to build.

How in the world is building your own block going to cost the same as a FRPP block? You are starting with your own block and adding pistons, rods, and maybe a crank along with rings and bearings. Machine work usually runs me $1100 if I have to have the deck surfaced along with a bore, hone, ring fitting, crank polish, balance, etc. If it's just a hone, rings, and balance the bill is around $600.

Worst case I'm seeing you spending $3000 total but probably less depending. Is FRPP selling the 5.3 for $3000?

I got quoted about $1500 - $2000 more to buy a B53, but i trust a few of you guys on building what i have...as i've seen some of your cool builds. My thought behind buying vs building was bigger has to be better in this case. Why would I stroke my motor! instead of buying one thats already bigger and has everything already in it to make big power. But if it's cheaper to build my 4.6 and it's stronger than most motors out there then i'll go this route.

As for as building, saving money, then buying a supercharger...what would be the best/better compression ratio to run N/A while i save my pennies for my boost?

 

[MassMustang]

I heard the latest estimated price for the B53 will be about $5100 delivered. I suppose that seems close to the cost to go with a forged stroker setup on my stock block, but I'd still need to add another $2K+ to do the install.

It would be great to buy a long block 5.3L and just sell my stock long block with 70K but if I'm dropping $10-12K, I'm leaning towards a 11/12 GT500 at that point.

I need some mechanically inclined friends!