Transmission problem or something else??

[philip_mustang]

My 2005 mustang has went through a lot of power upgrades and it seemed like the OEM transmission was going bad because it started to act funny.
When putting it in D it sometimes would take some seconds before it kicked in, same when putting it in R.
When staying in D waiting for the trafficlight to go green it sometimes just would stay in place. Going to N or R didn't help but after waiting a bit in D it kicked back in.
Because this was the one of the 2 things things that had not been upgraded I ordered a TCI Super Street Fighter and for the last thing I went for a Circle-D Pro 3 Torqua Converter as well.
Better to do it all at once than opening it all up again later.
But now that is installed the problem still seem to exist.
Yesterday, in the shop who did the install, I wanted to drive it off the lift. So put it in R and drove off, stopped when the rear tires touched the ground and then it wouldn't back up any further. When giving it a bit more gas after a sec or 2 it jumped in and backed up with spinning tires.
Going to D the same thing.
Any idea's here on what it could be?

 

[Pentalab]

How are you measuring the ATF level ? If you don't have enough in the 5R55 it will slip. I installed a performance automatic deeper pan...which holds an extra 4 qts of ATF. It also comes with a locking style dipstick. (dipstick comes out next to the battery, on the firewall). Then the JDM engineering auto tranny catch can went in, located on drivers side of eng bay. Then no more ATF fluid puking all over the ground. Last item was a B+M auto tranny cooler, in series with oem tranny cooler. Then filled the entire mess with RP synthetic ...'max ATF'.

This is on my 2010 oem stock 5r55s auto tranny. So far so good..with 390 rwhp. Bone stock, the tranny temp (as read on the aeroforce gauges), once up to temp ( 170F)...would skyrocket to 200 F, in just a few seconds on the hwy, with blower on. After the nods installed, esp the 2nd tranny cooler, barely any rise at all, maybe up to 173 F.

Who did the tune for the auto portion of your 5r55 ? You can see TCC slip etc, on the OBD port. I can see all the auto tranny parameters at a glance on my 3 aeroforce gauges.

 

[philip_mustang]

Well, the guys at Brenspeed write all the tunes for me.
The shop here added about 10 quarts ATF Mercon V (Brenspeed included 12 qt in the shipment) to the trannie now.

There really is no way of measuring it. These things aren't really cheap so would it be that difficult to add a dipstick? Even if it would cost $100 more I think no one would mind.

They now had the car in the air and driving so the transmission could warm up and then they filled it till it started to come out of the filling opening again in the bottom. Don't know if it is still "slipping" or not.

I'll have to check if I can see the Trans Temp on my SCT TSX Device. I keep an eye on Intake temp and cooling water but never on the trans temp.
Had no clue you could see if the trans slipped on the OBD. I'll have to get deeper into that part!!

Once this all works out I really need to go on dyno. Normally I guess I would be somewhere around 700-750 crank hp.

 

[Pentalab]

If you can't measure the ATF level, its not good. If you don't install the catch can for it, it will puke atf all over the ground on any 5r55s. If you don't install a 2nd auto tranny cooler in series with the oem one, it will run way too hot.

There is a ton of auto tranny parameters that I can read on my SCT-X3..when plugged into the OBD port. The normal deal is I have 3 x aeroforce gauges plugged into the OBD port....so I can look at all sorts of stuff. Each aeroforce gauge also allows for 2 x aux inputs for any stuff not included in the OBD port, like outboard sensors for oil temp, oil pressure, etc, etc.

 

[philip_mustang]

Tnx for the input Pentalab!!

I think you forgot a word in your reply but I assume you mean installing a second oil cooler for the tranny.

I'll see what I can get here, same for the catch can.

But I've never heard anyone of the guys I know complaining about oil from that 5r55. Normally you should be able to do it correctly without a catch can.

 

[Wild White Pony]

If you want to kill a trans quickly, let the temp get hot. The trans cooler and deeper pan holding more oil is effective at keeping those temps down. The catch can is very important since when your trans gets hot, the fluid expands. This fluid in the stock setup is purged to your bell hosing which then drips to the ground, you've lost fluid. When the trans fluid cools your now lower on the fluid level, the more cycles of this happening the lower your fluid level becomes and the hotter the fluid gets, end of your trans. The catch will allow the fluid to expand when hot and flow back to the trans when cool without losing vital fluid.

 

[Pentalab]

Tnx for the input Pentalab!!

I think you forgot a word in your reply but I assume you mean installing a second oil cooler for the tranny.

I'll see what I can get here, same for the catch can.

But I've never heard anyone of the guys I know complaining about oil from that 5r55. Normally you should be able to do it correctly without a catch can.

For 05-09 cars with a 5r55s http://www.teamjdm.com/2005-2009-automatic-5r55-trans-catch-can-kit/

For a 2010 car with a 5r55S http://www.teamjdm.com/2010-mustang-trans-fluid-overflow-catch-can/

The correct B+M auto tranny super cooler used on a 5r55S is their model # 70268 rated at 13,000 BTU. 3/4" thick, and fits easily below the oem tranny cooler, the 2 are then plumbed in series, oem 1st, then new one 2nd. ( note their model 70264, rated for 14,400 BTU is TOO thick, at 1.5" thick). The 70268 is dirt cheap anywhere, like $50 or less. It's uses the superior bar + plate design, instead of 'tube + fin'. Comes with a built in T stat, that operates on Viscosity instead of temperature. This is a popular item, extremely well built + rugged design.

Royal purple... 'Max ATF' is 100% synthetic, and runs cooler than mercon 5 dino oil.


The performance automatic deeper tranny pan weighs 10.3 lbs....and is exactly 2.1" deeper than the paper thin oem 3 lb steel pan. The deeper pan is thick, like 15mm, .6" where the flange is bolted. Consists of loads of solid Al ribs running length ways. Since aluminum conducts heat better than steel, and with the thick ribs, air flows along the bottom of the pan and the ribs,providing for extra cooling.
I bought a NEW oem pan gasket for mine from local ford dealer, cheap. The pan also came with new hex head SS bolts, to bolt the new pan.

The locking style dipstick is big enough, so that you can easily add ATF if required. (use a funnel of course)
Performance automatic part # PA27455KT

 

[Marble]

Although slightly different, other options for cooling could be a remote mount with a dedicated fan. They have built in thermostats that kick on at 180. The model I got is a 46,000 btu version. Seems to have reduced my tranny temps by ~25 degrees.

 

[808muscle]

I'm using a PA deep pan and the JDM castch can too. Even hot lapping at the track I rarely see temps above 182-185. On the street it's 170s. Catch can really does it job. I had oil all over my garage after the blower install. Now nothing ever leaks out.

 

[Pentalab]

Although slightly different, other options for cooling could be a remote mount with a dedicated fan. They have built in thermostats that kick on at 180. The model I got is a 46,000 btu version. Seems to have reduced my tranny temps by ~25 degrees.

All oem, mine would climb from 170 F to 200 F....in just 5-6 secs on the hwy at WOT, with the blower on (M90 - 5.8 psi). This is on a 70 F day.

With all the mods I posted, it climbs from 170F to 172 F. It just won't go any higher, even on a 0-140 mph romp on a hot day.

I looked at some auto tranny coolers that had a fan, but they all appeared too deep, to be able to sandwich below the oem tranny cooler.

Both my tranny coolers reside between the eng rad...and the AC rad. My 18" tall x 21" wide x 1" thick Roush HE sits in front of the AC rad. The oem pwr steering 'rad' is a tight fit at the base of the HE... and located between the HE + AC rad.

I had only 2 x choices really, either replace the oem tranny rad with a much larger one, or supplement the oem rad, with a 2nd tranny rad.

With eng fan on fast mode, air gets sucked through all the rads.

 

[philip_mustang]

I've ordered a catchcan and that B&m cooler.

But what parameters do you need to monitor to know if the TCC slips?

I only found the trans temp on my SCT X4.

So what else should I be looking for to get some info concerning the Torque converter and transmission?

 

[Marble]

All oem, mine would climb from 170 F to 200 F....in just 5-6 secs on the hwy at WOT, with the blower on (M90 - 5.8 psi). This is on a 70 F day.

With all the mods I posted, it climbs from 170F to 172 F. It just won't go any higher, even on a 0-140 mph romp on a hot day.

I looked at some auto tranny coolers that had a fan, but they all appeared too deep, to be able to sandwich below the oem tranny cooler.

Both my tranny coolers reside between the eng rad...and the AC rad. My 18" tall x 21" wide x 1" thick Roush HE sits in front of the AC rad. The oem pwr steering 'rad' is a tight fit at the base of the HE... and located between the HE + AC rad.

I had only 2 x choices really, either replace the oem tranny rad with a much larger one, or supplement the oem rad, with a 2nd tranny rad.

With eng fan on fast mode, air gets sucked through all the rads.

The tranny coolers with fans are remote mounted and can be in-line with your current cooler. I put mine in the fender in front of the driver side wheel well. None of the coolers with fans are designed to be placed in the grill area. Well, at least the ones I saw.

 

[philip_mustang]

I installed an extra oil cooler so I wanted to check the fluid level to make sure it wasn't to low.


I let the car idle to make sure the oil was getting to temperature. According to my X4 it was at 105°F. Transmission was in N and engine was running.


When removing the center of the filling cap the oil came pouring out, wich surprised me but I let it run and about 4 quarts came out!
When it started to drip I closed the cap.


First thought was that it was overfilled by the installed but I haven't had any issues so far. When I wanted to let the car run it didn't do anything, not in D, not in 1, not in R ... nothing.


So I pumped back in what got out and then it run normal like before.


What could be the issue here?

 

[AbdullaGT500]

Sounds like your transmission is toast.

 

[808muscle]

That stock fill procedure blows. PA use to make one not sure if they still do, but I know summit has one for cheap. A deeper pan that comes with a dipstick. Get that and checking and filling the trans oil is a piece of cake. F*ck that stock setup. Its nothing but a PITA.

I installed an extra oil cooler so I wanted to check the fluid level to make sure it wasn't to low.


I let the car idle to make sure the oil was getting to temperature. According to my X4 it was at 105°F. Transmission was in N and engine was running.


When removing the center of the filling cap the oil came pouring out, wich surprised me but I let it run and about 4 quarts came out!
When it started to drip I closed the cap.


First thought was that it was overfilled by the installed but I haven't had any issues so far. When I wanted to let the car run it didn't do anything, not in D, not in 1, not in R ... nothing.


So I pumped back in what got out and then it run normal like before.


What could be the issue here?

 

[philip_mustang]

That stock fill procedure blows. PA use to make one not sure if they still do, but I know summit has one for cheap. A deeper pan that comes with a dipstick. Get that and checking and filling the trans oil is a piece of cake. F*ck that stock setup. Its nothing but a PITA.

You are more than right. It does suck big time.
thought about that deeper dish before but Belgium is a country full of nasty speed bumps and the car already is lowered. So that sadly enought aint an option

 

[Pentalab]

Somebody makes an OEM style pan, that does include a dip stick. I will try and find it for you. It is no deeper than the oem pan.

You can't bring the auto tranny up to temp by letting the car sit in neutral, parked, with the eng running. The eng will get up to normal temp, but the auto tranny won't. You have to drive it around for a while to get it to it's normal 170 deg F temp.

With my SCT-X3, there is a LOT of auto tranny parameters that can be looked at. I will look them up and post them if you like. You should be able to see the same auto tranny parameters with your SCT-X4. Normally I just use one of my 3 x aeroforce gauges....all plugged into the OBD port....to look at auto tranny parameters.

 

[philip_mustang]

Tnx Pentalab!!

A pan with stock hight and a dipstick would be great!
I've searched for other parameters but haven't found anything

I've followed the instructions mentioned on the american muscle site.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/motorcraft-auto-transmission-fluid-cust-install.html


The car was on 4 stands.
I'll maybe later give it a another try after heating it up till about 170° while driving.

Now I'm also wondering if it could be possible that my transmission isn't installed correctly?
Isn't the oil pan supposed to be flat leveled? Mine has quite an agle.
But I haven't noticed something strange so far.

I am hearing a kind of whining noise but that could be coming from the new headers that were installed together with the transmission and torque converter. Letting the engine breathe more freely can maybe result in hearing the supercharger whine a bit more.

Here are some pics I just took of the trannie pan.

 

[W1ldcat]

Trick Flow has an oil pan with finning and aluminum and has a fill stick and it holds 2 quarts more than stock and it helped me. I got it through Summit.

 

[Pentalab]

Mine holds an extra 4 qts. What he wants is an oem sized pan..but with a dipstick....and big enough to add atf. Somebody makes one, I'm still trying to find it.

My aluminum, ribbed PA pan is 2.1" deeper than the oem pan..and triple the weight (10 vs 3 lbs). If urs holds an extra 2 qts, then it's probably only 1" deeper than oem...and yet another good possible option.

Btw, the angle of the tranny /pan u depict on the pix is normal, they are all like that. ( higher at aft end)