UCA bushings and bolts needed to complete job

[GlassTop09]

Have you considered something like this: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/w...he-most-difference.140239/page-5#post-2545073

Can't speak for crjackson, but I've kept up w\ this thread as I will be looking to apply some of this in the truck area\under rear seat of my car in the near future (audio installers already covered the inner doors & rear shelf area when I had my Kenwood system installed back in 2018......ain't much to do concerning the roof w\ a glass roof installed.....no sheet metal to reverb off sound frequencies) to finish it all up.

 

[GlassTop09]

I was looking at the Steeda UCA mount........which holes rep the OEM stock Ford UCA alignment position? I ask due to Steeda not providing an installation instruction sheet off their web site.........

NM..........I found them for both the UCA & UCA bracket.............

 

[crjackson]

I forgot which hole it went in, but there were instructions indicating how to setup with everything else as stock. I had the pinion angle checked by a Ford tech. I needed the help.

I ditched the stock LCA’s a couple of years ago, and replaced them with the Roush Billet Aluminum LCAs. No noise increase at all. I wanted to replace the UCA with Roush, but I learned that Roush discontinues their parts faster than speedy-Gonzales. I missed out by waiting too long, and the ‘11-‘14 specific UCA is no where to be found.

I’d likely be very happy with that, and a DSS CV equipped DS.

I save all of my old parts, so the plan is to install the new stock diff bushing, test to see if noise level is acceptable or not (doubtful), then if not, reinstall my stock UCA.

If I have to resort to going back full stock, it’s doubtful I’ll ever have a 1-PC DS. I don’t want to spend another $1100, just to be disappointed.

The sad fact is, this thing (Steeda UCA/Bushing) really improves the feel of the car, under hard acceleration. I’m going to hate going back to the springy rubber-band feel that the stock parts produce. I mean, the rubber-band feel really sucks.

 

[GlassTop09]

I forgot which hole it went in, but there were instructions indicating how to setup with everything else as stock. I had the pinion angle checked by a Ford tech. I needed the help.

I ditched the stock LCA’s a couple of years ago, and replaced them with the Roush Billet Aluminum LCAs. No noise increase at all. I wanted to replace the UCA with Roush, but I learned that Roush discontinues their parts faster than speedy-Gonzales. I missed out by waiting too long, and the ‘11-‘14 specific UCA is no where to be found.

I’d likely be very happy with that, and a DSS CV equipped DS.

I save all of my old parts, so the plan is to install the new stock diff bushing, test to see if noise level is acceptable or not (doubtful), then if not, reinstall my stock UCA.

If I have to resort to going back full stock, it’s doubtful I’ll ever have a 1-PC DS. I don’t want to spend another $1100, just to be disappointed.

The sad fact is, this thing (Steeda UCA/Bushing) really improves the feel of the car, under hard acceleration. I’m going to hate going back to the springy rubber-band feel that the stock parts produce. I mean, the rubber-band feel really sucks.

Ah I remember now when you did post about installing these Roush billet LCA's.............

The reason why I asked for how this part was installed (also why I was looking for the install instructions) was to see if it was installed in the OEM hole position in the mounting bracket & the UCA arm was set at the OEM UCA's hole centers so all would be at the same geometry as the OEM UCA assembly would have been to rule out any issues that may arise from an added pinion angle adjustment that caused the driveline to vibrate thus cause\aggravate the NVH you're hearing.

TBH, I would also have this done (reset the Steeda UCA arm length back to OEM arm length & install in the OEM hole position in Steeda UCA mount) as well when you have the diff bushing replaced so all is returned to the same geometry then test it all to see if this improves NVH before going to step 2. If this gets you to a good place, then you can always reassess the pinion angle adjustment later.

Yep, that is the irony of it all.......the reason for these parts is warranted......but in order to get this type of performance some concession(s) have to be considered\made\accepted.

After looking at this Steeda UCA setup (also have this design for 05-10 S197's too) I like the design & was especially looking at the UCA's front bushing socket concerning its ID.......wondering if its ID is in range of an OEM UCA axle bushing's OD thus could be pressed into it.......

Probably not so wishful thinking................

Hope all works out for you!

 

[crjackson]

if it was installed in the OEM hole position in the mounting bracket & the UCA arm was set at the OEM UCA's hole centers so all would be at the same geometry as the OEM UCA assembly

OEM geometry was maintained.

I like the design & was especially looking at the UCA's front bushing socket concerning its ID.......wondering if its ID is in range of an OEM UCA axle bushing's OD thus could be pressed into it.......

Probably not so wishful thinking................

I don’t think so, but I’ll have a look when my lazy-ass gets back to the issue. Pretty sure it won’t work though. That would be too easy. Is there “such a thing” as having a custom bushing made/fitted? Seems stupid no one offers an option.

I’m goi g to do the stock Diff-Side, test, then if not satisfied, replace the whole shebangabang with the old/removed UCA, tuck my tail, forget the idea of a 1-PC DS. I can’t justify the $1k DSS / CV unit on a HOPE that no adjustments would be needed.

 

[GlassTop09]

I wanted to replace the UCA with Roush, but I learned that Roush discontinues their parts faster than speedy-Gonzales.

Just checked on Roush's web site & you're absolutely correct!
They've discontinued the 3rd Link UCA assembly & those Billet LCAs for S197 (05-10 & 11-14).

So, I've probably got 1 of the last batch of Roush 3rd Link UCA assemblies they've made before discontinuing them (took 12+ weeks to get it after initial order thru CJ Pony Parts in Aug 2021.......my order must've got in the query before they stopped production so had to honor it......saw that CJ Pony Parts doesn't carry them anymore either).

Is what it is....................

 

[Unexplodedcow]

I had a UMI roto-joint UCA with bracket. Later switched to a J&M design that's held up much better. Stock diff. bushing went pretty quickly after that, and I put in a urethane bushing (which tore), and quickly went to a Steeda spherical bearing. Took off the anti-whine weights as well. I can hear the gears, but 3.73s were always noisy in my car (from the factory).

I had to swap out the stock diff. bushing around 15k - it was shot from regular driving - not spirited, no racing. Just driving. Not a big fan of the OE bushings, though they did the right thing with the crush sleeves.

 

[crjackson]

After looking at this Steeda UCA setup (also have this design for 05-10 S197's too) I like the design & was especially looking at the UCA's front bushing socket concerning its ID.......wondering if its ID is in range of an OEM UCA axle bushing's OD thus could be pressed into it.......

Probably not so wishful thinking................

Hope all works out for you!

So, I went to the Ford dealership today on other business, and decided to stop in the service dept. to get an estimate on replacing that UCA/Diff bushing. I asked the service advisor if he could check the flat-rate book but it seems they don’t use them these days (I used to live out of that damned book). He tried every way from Sunday to find that job in his computer, and couldn’t even find the bushing. I was hoping to get an idea on labor costs, but didn’t happen. He’s supposed to call me back next week after he figures out how to locate it in the computer.

Anyway, after adjusting to the noise a little, I think the greatest amount of noise is resonance. There is gear whine to be sure, but the high-volume roaring is resonance.

I’m going to replace only the rear bushing 1st, and see if I can live with that. If I can’t, I’ll reinstall my old UCA assembly for now, and when I have the Steeda part back off the car, I’ll check the ID the UCA front bushing tube. Maybe with enough research, I can find a suitable alternative solution to the poly bushing.

 

[JC SSP]

Unfortunately most stealership are lost… they probably dont even have a tech that knows what fox body looks like.

There is Great info here on how to replace the bushing. Save yourself some money and aggravation and do it right yourself. A buddy, pizza and case of beer helps too. Lol

 

[GlassTop09]

Anyway, after adjusting to the noise a little, I think the greatest amount of noise is resonance. There is gear whine to be sure, but the high-volume roaring is resonance.

Yep, this is the precise type of NVH that is prevalent w\ this S197 chassis........resonance due to high frequency vibes being sent into it........more relatable to bees\wasps constantly buzzing in close proximity to our ears once the DS RPM's reach a certain point where the input frequency gets high enough for the unibody metal to start reverberating.......like a tuning fork.

This part can be subjective, but IMHO, resonance is more of a bearing roller\inner or outer race issue (flat spots, pitting or out of round) than it is actual gear mesh related......the pinion inner\outer bearings in particular are the main drivers (which involve the DS as well.....another part to transfer reverberating frequencies) but also the 2 carrier bearings to a lesser extent & it will certainly be focused to transfer its NVH mainly thru the UCA assembly into the unibody under the rear seat area (where the UCA mounts to the unibody).

I’ll check the ID the UCA front bushing tube

The Ford 8.8" axle UCA diff bushing's outer shell OD is 1.8" uncompressed. Yep, you'd think that all these folks (BMR, UMI, Steeda, etc) would've thought to at least make a UCA front housing section of their adj UCA's that could've used an OEM UCA diff bushing pressed into it w\ the articulation slots aligned horizontally to accommodate axle articulation movement......then you'd have the option of choosing between 3 different levels of OEM bushing durometer & could mix\match between them to achieve the amount of OEM stiffness you desired in addition to the OEM built in NVH transfer resistance between both the front & rear UCA attachment points.

Maybe 1 day.........................Roush had this down but have since discontinued making them.

 

[crjackson]

Maybe 1 day.........................Roush had this down but have since discontinued making them.

It’s such a shame really. The car feels sooo much better with these noisy bits installed. I just can’t do the noise.

I searched for the Roush kit for a very long time, and finally relented to the Steeda kit. It’s made so much sturdier than stock, and I only wanted the adjustability. I’m pretty disappointed. I should have just spent that money on the new impact wrench I was eyeing.

 

[crjackson]

The reason why I asked for how this part was installed (also why I was looking for the install instructions) was to see if it was installed in the OEM hole position in the mounting bracket & the UCA arm was set at the OEM UCA's hole centers so all would be at the same geometry as the OEM UCA assembly would have been to rule out any issues that may arise from an added pinion angle adjustment that caused the driveline to vibrate thus cause\aggravate the NVH you're hearing.

TBH, I would also have this done (reset the Steeda UCA arm length back to OEM arm length & install in the OEM hole position in Steeda UCA mount) as well when you have the diff bushing replaced so all is returned to the same geometry then test it all to see if this improves NVH before going to step 2. If this gets you to a good place, then you can always reassess the pinion angle adjustment later.

Here are a couple of pics showing the “After Install” results. Since you have downloaded the somewhat jacked-up install docs, you’ll notice my UCA mount is slightly different than the instructions show. Mine has an extra hole which is higher, and further back on the mount. I ignored that hole completely. (Pic #3)

Also, I’ve been thinking about the flow of the install that day, and I’m wondering I’d perhaps the adjustment is indeed off a little. If the arm is too long/short for example, that could be preloading the arm in one direction or the other, and allowing a more constant pressure on the bushings that would aid in transferring more NVH when unloaded. I mention this, because even when the howling present, hitting the throttle to induce heavy load, reduces the noise substantially. It generally only intolerable when cruising with no load in 6th. Acceleration or deceleration takes most of it away.

I have an appointment to get the Diff bushing replaced next week. Service writer said the tech that will be doing the job, has experience changing this bushing out, and he said it would be a 2h job at most. I honestly think it’s a 1 - 1.5hr job with proper tools, lift, prior experience but you know how that goes. I’ll talk to the tech prior to install regarding bushing orientation.

I just want to be clear on something you said. Am I correct that you were saying that the voids (open slots) in the bushing should be at 12 & 6 o’clock ? Also, I can’t find it in this thread, but I think you mentioned a gap between the Diff housing flange, and the bushing flange to get proper center. Do you remember that measurement?

Probably wishful thinking on my part, but I’m thinking it’ll be worth a tinkering session or two.

Also you mentioned an adjustable PHB. I already did an FRPP adjustable to correct any off-center axle issues.

Can you point me to, or give me the part/model number of that bushing tool? I’ve found several on eBay that aren’t too expensive. It might come in handy down the road.

 

[crjackson]

Unfortunately most stealership are lost… they probably dont even have a tech that knows what fox body looks like.

There is Great info here on how to replace the bushing. Save yourself some money and aggravation and do it right yourself. A buddy, pizza and case of beer helps too. Lol

Thanks JC, I know how to physically do the job with some install tips on orientation.

The problem is, I’m disabled, have limited tools, a very hot, very un-level gravel driveway to lay on while working, and no buddies to eat pizza, drink beer, or help in any way. It’s just simpler to job it out.

Sadly, any buddies who ever help me, are doing so by the hour for hire.

 

[Monkeyporn]

Unless you are at the drag strip on the regular and don’t do Mustang road-trips, I’d skip the poly bushing on the Diff side. I just did mine with a poly, and I can’t take the car on road trips at all now. The gears are so loud I have to pull-over every 50mi or so for headache relief.

Plus it’s a PITA to replace. If yours is weak or rotted, I’d just replace it with OEM.

I just ordered this one from TASCA. I’ll be doing the job again
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-control-arm-bushing-br3z5a638b

I second that stay with the rubber bushing you be happy you did !

 

[GlassTop09]

I just want to be clear on something you said. Am I correct that you were saying that the voids (open slots) in the bushing should be at 12 & 6 o’clock ? Also, I can’t find it in this thread, but I think you mentioned a gap between the Diff housing flange, and the bushing flange to get proper center. Do you remember that measurement?

Here ya go...........
Ford Workshop Service & Repair Manuals - fordrepair.info - 2011 Mustang Rear Suspension Upper arm bushing (iihs.net)
This is the same for all 05-10 S197's as well. The removal\install tool shown is the Ford Rotunda tool w\ the particular part #'s for each pertinent part. This tool is hella expensive (was $657.95 + shipping\tax when I bought it some 4 yrs back) & is not the easiest tool to find\acquire (I ordered it thru my local Ford dealership as they were the only point of access, I could find in my area.....) but you may be able to rent a similar type of tool from your local AZ, O'Reilly's, etc. It is this Rotunda tool that will automatically set the proper gap to center this bushing in the axle housing when it bottoms out, once you initially set the bushing articulation slots in the proper orientation (vertically in the axle.....the 2 flat sides in bushing outer shell flange are also alignment guides).

Here are a couple of pics showing the “After Install” results. Since you have downloaded the somewhat jacked-up install docs, you’ll notice my UCA mount is slightly different than the instructions show. Mine has an extra hole which is higher, and further back on the mount. I ignored that hole completely. (Pic #3)

Also, I’ve been thinking about the flow of the install that day, and I’m wondering I’d perhaps the adjustment is indeed off a little. If the arm is too long/short for example, that could be preloading the arm in one direction or the other, and allowing a more constant pressure on the bushings that would aid in transferring more NVH when unloaded. I mention this, because even when the howling present, hitting the throttle to induce heavy load, reduces the noise substantially. It generally only intolerable when cruising with no load in 6th. Acceleration or deceleration takes most of it away.

Yeah, I noticed that as well. From my intuition, that undocumented hole should be the OEM hole for use on a 05-10 S197 (the 05-10 S197 OEM UCA arm length is approx 1" shorter than the 11-14 S197 OEM UCA arm length) so it looks like you installed in the proper hole for 11-14 S197 OEM UCA arm (this sets the instantaneous center measurement of axle in vertical thru the UCA to a spot at front bumper where the line thru the UCA arm intersects w\ the line thru the 2 LCA's (if the 2 LCAs are level at OEM ride height)). By setting the Steeda UCA arm hole center length to the OEM UCA arm hole center length, this should fully realign the UCA to the OEM Ford UCA alignment measurements......including the DS pinion angle for the 2-piece DS & UCA neutral IC.

The larger issue concerning NVH is the relation of DS pinion angle to rear axle flange vs the amount of pinion deflection (droop\rise) when suspension travels thru its compression\extension arc. This will in part be determined by the UCA arm length thru hole centers. This is why DS pinion angle should always be set w\ car at normal ride height (full weight on suspension) & level so the DS pinion angle will be set w\ the suspension at neutral IC (center of suspension travel arc) to minimize the amount of pinion deflection from axle travel.......which will cause a slight change in DS pinion angle when suspension travels in either direction from IC center. When you lower the ride height on these S197s, you change all of this thus all needs to be realigned back to spec to eliminate any issues derived from lowering the ride height.....including DS pinion angle but also IC to correct pinion deflection thru suspension travel (or if drag\road racing.......called anti-squat....intentionally setting IC shorter thus forcing less suspension compression from ride height which transfers more down force to the rear axle thus tires for traction purposes on the throttle hit.....this is what the other holes in the Steeda UCA mount are for).
This is why the 11-14 S197 UCA arm is longer than the 05-10 S197 UCA arm......the purpose is to reduce the amount of pinion deflection during rear suspension travel to offset the amount of change of DS pinion angle from it.

Since the install of the Steeda UCA assembly, this may need to be adjusted a little due to the lack of bushing deflection under load (pinion rise) to bring all back into realignment to reduce the amount of NVH frequency travel rate into unibody (OEM setup will account for this to some extent thru its bushing design). Why I made suggestion to recheck this adjustment while installing the OEM UCA axle bushing........

Also you mentioned an adjustable PHB. I already did an FRPP adjustable to correct any off-center axle issues.

What I'm meaning by bringing this up is when you use an adj PHB to center the axle to the unibody to center up the rear wheels in the unibody tubs, you're also realigning the axle pinion shaft center alignment to driveline center (axle should be perpendicular--90*-- to driveline center--engine crankshaft thru trans output shaft center) at the same time which will\can induce a lateral side loading\deflection to the U-joints\CV joints from being out of alignment. I don't know how many of us actually check for this while you're shifting the axle laterally to align the tires to the unibody......but you should......especially if using a 1-piece DS using 2 U-joints.
This is another reason why Ford used a 2-piece DS w\ 2 CV joints in a half-shaft config instead of a 1-piece DS using 2 U-joints w\ this S197 chassis. When the unibody rolls, this rolling motion will shift the unibody laterally to the axle thru the PHB travel arc away from its center at ride height thus will also shift this axle-to-driveline center alignment away from center causing the same lateral side loading\deflection on U-joints\CV joints which, depending on how much deflection is created, can cause some extra NVH as well.
Why it is a general good idea to install a Watts link along w\ a 1-piece DS using 2 U-joints to eliminate this lateral side loading of the DS U-joints from unibody roll (maintains perpendicular axle center to driveline center alignment as well as the tire to unibody tub alignment).

This is a lot to digest, but you asked for an understanding, so I gave it my best shot.

Hope this helps.

 

[GriffX]

Do I remember correctly that whiteline has rubber like bushings on the LCA/UCA of the rear axle?

(I still have the Ford 11+ UCA in my storage, waiting for install on my 07, have no torque wrench for the M18 475Nm bolt under the seat)

 

[crjackson]

This is a lot to digest, but you asked for an understanding, so I gave it my best shot.

Yep - Thanks for the help. The photos below ar especially helpful too.

 

[GlassTop09]

Yep - Thanks for the help. The photos below ar especially helpful too.
View attachment 89119 View attachment 89120

If I can suggest, I would try to reset the initial DS pinion angle to -.5* to -1* & see if the NVH resonance reduces. I say this due to what you posted as to when you accelerate the NVH resonance drops......the pinion is rising some from the counterrotation of the axle to the twisting load thru the pinion which is due to both Steeda UCA poly bushings combined deflection rate from the induced load (the rear axle LCAs bushings may also be deflecting under compression as well but in reality, the amount of bushing deflection here is very little as opposed to the UCA).
The total amount of the Steeda UCA bushing deflection is reduced vs the OEM UCA bushing thus you don't need as much -* initial DS pinion angle offset to bring DS pinion angle into near 0* alignment under load. The OEM UCA diff bushing is not as soft as some think it is thus, I don't see this changing the total Steeda UCA bushing deflection amount\rate under load result as much.... but I do see it reducing the amount of NVH resonance transfer rate thru it........how much of a reduction is the question.

This should lessen the amount of DS pinion angle deflection when running under a light load due to the CV's being at a lower deflection angle thus theoretically create less harmonic frequency (closer to 0* the less frictional rubbing movement inside the CV joints from angle off) .......that is, if the NVH resonance you're hearing is being generated primarily from both DS CV joints operating under higher deflection angles.

Since you do have an adj UCA installed, it's worth a shot or 2 to readjust this to see if you get a positive response before giving up on it.

 

[crjackson]

If I can suggest, I would try to reset the initial DS pinion angle to -.5* to -1* & see if the NVH resonance reduces.

Yep, I’ll take your suggestion and give it a shot. I just have to find a level surface where I can make the changes.

I hope the Tremec App on my phone is suitable.

 

[crjackson]

The removal\install tool shown is the Ford Rotunda tool w\ the particular part #'s for each pertinent part. This tool is hella expensive (was $657.95 + shipping\tax when I bought it some 4 yrs back) & is not the easiest tool to find\acquire

I was hoping this one would work. Easy find, but a different number than shown in the shop manual page. It says it’s for an Explorer 8.8” SRA.
FORD ROTUNDA OTC TOOL 205-509 AXLE BUSHING REMOVER INSTALLER SET