UCA/LCA relocation brackets

[bakerjd]

Looking to upgrade my suspension in the very near future and was looking into the adjustable BMR UCA/LCA and noticed that there was a relocation bracket. I don't really know if or why it's necessary so I did a search on S197 only to come up with a description of people having it installed but no reason as to why. I'm sure it's as simple as re-configuring the geometry of the vehicle but am curious if anyone could further explain the need in order to justify purchasing them. Currently I'm getting ready to install Steeda Sport springs, Steeda HD strut mounts and Koni Yellows. Along with the BMR UCA/LCA I was looking into a BMR adjustable PHB too (just to give you a heads up of what my suspension is looking to be if that may help). Thanks for any help guys.

 

[S8MS-01904]

The way I understand it is "if" the LCA is not level with the ground "then" the relocation bracket is necessary. It's more noticeable the lower you get the car.

It is better to have a adjustable upper control arm (altho harder to adjust) since the arm is shorter and less incline to be the "weak" link. It's usually adjusted once and then forgotten about.

Hope this helps as I'm still learning this stuff too.

 

[drive_55_not]

With the cars stock suspension, the LCA angle is downward from the vehicle mount to the axle, That angle puts downward pressure to keep the axle planted on the ground.

Depending on how much you lower your car, that LCA angle will change to being flat or in my case, UP from the frame to the axle, so the LCA no longer puts down pressure on the axle.

With the LCA flat or upwards you could start having wheel hop issues under hard acceleration, I never did but I didn't start using drag radials til after I installed the BMR relocation brackets.

As for the UCA's,, Get the adjustable as you'll need to adjust your pinion angle after lowering, Setting the pinion angle is fairly easy, While it is rather tight to get a regular wrench in there to tighten the jam nuts on the UCA, I picked up a Channellock WideAzz 8" adjustable and it works perfect.

Looks like you have a good plan .. Good luck ..

.

 

[gil_t2]

You guys are close, The relocation brackets are used to adjust ( instant center ). If you were to draw lines along the UCA and LCA's forward, they will intersect somewhere under the floor pan. This point is called instant center. You can adjust this point depending on track conditions for better traction. If you had a car that could pull the wheels off the ground, this would allow you to adj so they don't come to high off the ground. As you accelerate the rear pushes on the LCA's, as already said you don't want the LCA angling down at the body mount. It helps with weight transfer. If you look at the UCA mount you will see that there are two styles for sale. They have one with holes up and down( drag ), and they make another with holes front and back. (road racing)

 

[Weou09]

Basically
#1 is stock
#2 is lowered
#3 is aftermarket with relo-brackets

What you are looking for is #3 at rest(not moving) then at launch or acceleration #1 so that the body puts weight(pressure) on the rear pushing it down. #2 is NO good because the weight of the vehicle and pressure of acceleration is no longer pushing down on the axle(tires) making the car spin/wheel hop.

 

[S8MS-01904]

Basically
#1 is stock
#2 is lowered
#3 is aftermarket with relo-brackets

What you are looking for is #3 at rest(not moving) then at launch or acceleration #1 so that the body puts weight(pressure) on the rear pushing it down. #2 is NO good because the weight of the vehicle and pressure of acceleration is no longer pushing down on the axle(tires) making the car spin/wheel hop.

Number three is the preferred set-up I think for most street driving and drag racing. Not sure for road course racing. So as you launch, the suspension flexes to emulate the #1 condition.

If setting up the S197 for the #3 condition, would having a "one piece" drive shaft be preferred?

 

[Weou09]

I do not have a 1 piece and my lcas are on the lowest setting on my relo-brackets(cut the best 60')

 

[bakerjd]

Ok so in addition to the items I have posted that I am ordering, is there anything else I should consider doing at the same time? Any other correction that may need to be made before I lower the vehicle?

Thanks for all of the information by the way. This has been a clinic for me!

 

[devildog1679]

Depending on how much your lowering adjustable LCA's or UCA's may not be needed. No need in getting parts you may not need. I'm putting in my Koni's and steeda springs then seeing if anything else is needed. I researched this to death as well and spoke with many reputable members on this subject.

 

[bakerjd]

^ This sounds like a good plan of action. Let me know how your set-up turns out.

 

[Weou09]

I think you have it covered as far as I can see. Adjustable uca and or lca to set pinion angle. Adjustable panhard bar to center the axle. Sounds good.

 

[devildog1679]

^ This sounds like a good plan of action. Let me know how your set-up turns out.

Will do, the one thing I did get wad adjustable panhard since it will more than likely be a must.

 

[bakerjd]

I planned on the PHB as well. From all that I've gathered it's almost a must like you said.

 

[bakerjd]

Ok, so of these two brackets, which would suit me best? I would most likely just be showing the car but I do hit the drag strip occasionally (never track raced yet). Who knows what I'll be into 5 years down the road. The only way I won't be driving this car is if I'm dead or it gets totaled, this will be mine for good (father's biggest regret was selling his first car, heavily modded AMX) so I'm looking to get a well-rounded set-up.

Bracket #1

Bracket #2

I'm also concerned about NVH with the adjustable UCA/LCA. Should I consider the billet LCAs or stick to the adjustables?

 

[Weou09]

Ok, so of these two brackets, which would suit me best? I would most likely just be showing the car but I do hit the drag strip occasionally (never track raced yet). Who knows what I'll be into 5 years down the road. The only way I won't be driving this car is if I'm dead or it gets totaled, this will be mine for good (father's biggest regret was selling his first car, heavily modded AMX) so I'm looking to get a well-rounded set-up.

Bracket #1

Bracket #2

I'm also concerned about NVH with the adjustable UCA/LCA. Should I consider the billet LCAs or stick to the adjustables?

Bracket 1 is lower control arm relocation brackets. Bracket 2 is the upper control arm mount. Go with 1 first. I would get boxed lowers and adjustable upper. If you street the car mostly I would get http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=166 first then get a adjustable upper with a mount from upr or american muscle.

 

[devildog1679]

Keep in mind if you ever want to get adjustable sway bars the relocation brackets may get in the way.

 

[Weou09]

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-11.html
That would be a good upper combo. Nice and solid with a bushing so little to know NVH added.

 

[bakerjd]

Keep in mind if you ever want to get adjustable sway bars the relocation brackets may get in the way.

I might get mauled for this comment but what advantages do an adjustable sway bar have over a non-adjustable (other than the obvious) and where would it be of practical use? I know very little about suspensions, obviously, lol

 

[bakerjd]

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-11.html
That would be a good upper combo. Nice and solid with a bushing so little to know NVH added.

I don't think that mount would work, I've got an '06 and that seems to be for a '11 set-up. I can find the one for my set-up on UPR and appreciate you helping out.

Looks to be the one for my model

 

[Weou09]

I don't think that mount would work, I've got an '06 and that seems to be for a '11 set-up. I can find the one for my set-up on UPR and appreciate you helping out.

Looks to be the one for my model

Yes I clicked the wrong one but if you get nonadjustable lowers(what I would recommend) you should get an adjustable upper. I am not sure how important the mount is though...I think you could get away with not getting one and just getting the upper link.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...ouble-adjustable-upper-3rd-link-mount-05.html