W3bb3r04 build thread

[GallopingFord]

noice

 

[BruceH]

Hey, those look familiar! I have the Manley flat tops in my current engine...granted they are only .020 over. What I like about the Manley ones is their spec is for tighter clearance so there is less chance of cold startup piston slap noise. I have zero noise on mine when I start it.

How low do they go with the side skirt coating? At least one piston manufacturer says .0015 with 2618 and a skirt coating. Can't remember if it's Manley or not.

 

[i am ryan]

I just got a chubby

 

[dysan]

How low do they go with the side skirt coating? At least one piston manufacturer says .0015 with 2618 and a skirt coating. Can't remember if it's Manley or not.

We just went off their tech page... .003

I believe diamond wanted .004-.005 in my last aluminum block engine and those had a fair amount of piston slap at startup.

http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/piston.pdf

 

[BruceH]

We just went off their tech page... .003

I believe diamond wanted .004-.005 in my last aluminum block engine and those had a fair amount of piston slap at startup.

http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/piston.pdf

My Diamonds have .003" for a 3.7" bore. I have no cold motor noise. IIRC they speced .0035" for na and more for boosted. So far the 2618 pistons haven't been bad at all. I let the motor warm up to 80 degrees indicated coolant temp before driving.

 

[Saleen S281]

Any updates RJ?

 

[W3bb3r04]

Any updates RJ?

Nothing major right now. I dropped the pistons off last week but havent heard anything from the machine shop. Im thinking of buying some different heads too so I can make sure theres no chance of any sand getting back into the motor. Also the cam caps are worn some

 

[W3bb3r04]

I got a call from the machine shop yesterday to let me know that the engine work is done. I will probably pick it up the end of this week or the beginning of next week. Any body have input on if they think I can clean the heads enough or if I should just buy some.

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[W3bb3r04]

So a little update. It's probably going to be awhile til the car is up and running. I just pulled the heads apart to see how everything looked and they are trashed

Note the sand in the pcv line

Also need opinions on using a head with this gouge in it. The lash adjuster area Is smooth. 1 of the followers locked up on this one head. I can get them both for $100. Only damage is this shown. I figure the good head alone is worth that.

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[W3bb3r04]

I have another question as well. I have the oppertunity to get a free 8 bolt forged crank to use on the motor. The stock crank I have is already turned .020 and I have bearings to match. I can either have one rod bearing journal welded and polished to factory spec and buy new bearings, or I can turn the forged crank to match my bearings and run that. Is there any loss of structural integrity when turning a crank .020 and would it be worth it to go ahead and make the switch to the 8 bolt forged crank versus the cast crank on a 700 whp build? Thanks!

 

[W3bb3r04]

Anyone?

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[jodadejss06gt]

RJ, do you think you are going to stop at 700? Things you have to consider, how much more will it cost you to add the free crank(since you are doing a budget build), do you really want to buy a 8 bolt flywheel, etc. I personally am happy I picked up a cheap forged crank. If you don't put it in pick it up and sell it to a forum member here looking to do a build.

 

[GallopingFord]

I'm with Jason on this one. It depends how much you have left in your budget if you are willing to buy the other peripherals required for the 8-bolt crank.

 

[W3bb3r04]

RJ, do you think you are going to stop at 700? Things you have to consider, how much more will it cost you to add the free crank(since you are doing a budget build), do you really want to buy a 8 bolt flywheel, etc. I personally am happy I picked up a cheap forged crank. If you don't put it in pick it up and sell it to a forum member here looking to do a build.

I'm with Jason on this one. It depends how much you have left in your budget if you are willing to buy the other peripherals required for the 8-bolt crank.

I don't think it will cost me much to do a flywheel and stuff or get the crank done but I don't think I'll go back over 700. I want to keep it reliable. I am also going to be purchasing the S&H stealth single kit and sell my current kit to a buddy so that will help with the power too. I'm planning on 15 psi. And maybe bump to 18 on the dyno just for numbers. I just don't know if there will be any return on the extra money spent or if it would just be a good piece of mind to have a forged crank.


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[jodadejss06gt]

You are in there now, spend the coin and do it right!

 

[W3bb3r04]

I talked to Bruce and he thinks I should just roll with the stock one since I already have the rotating assembly balanced and they would have to redo that again too

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[jodadejss06gt]

Oh shit, yea i thought you were still needing that to be done with the new pistons. NVM

 

[W3bb3r04]

No it's already done and ready to be picked up. Lol

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[Shotokan1509]

Just go with as-is

 

[W3bb3r04]

Round 2 bitches.

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