Wet Vs. Dry NOS

marcspaz

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Guys, I know nothing about n2o systems. What is going to give me the smoothest/best performance results? Wet, Dry, Doesn't matter?

Is one more likely to cause dets in lower RPM than the other?

I am thinking of an 80/100 shot with a WOT trigger and a slow gain injection system. Want to get the best performance with the least likelyhood of blowing my heads off.

Thanks,
Spaz
 

psfracer

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If you have a good tire, just run a window switch. I don't think you need a progressive controller if you just going to run the 100 shot.

I used to squeeze a 150 shot right out of the hole, worked great until one day......

get the window switch and you won't have to worry about this:
 
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marcspaz

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I remember seeing that pic in the COTM right when I first joined. I DO NOT want to do that for sure...
 

psfracer

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Aw come on, why not? Since the intake is composite, it was blown into like 1,000 pieces (like confetti). The large orange flash, and the compression from the explosion broke the windshield and made my ears ring (even with the helmet on). It was fun. I fixed the hood though (not)!
Traction Control Window Switch

Straight from the www.zex.com website under accessories:


The new ZEX™ Traction Control Window Switch lets you easily select the rpm range that your nitrous system activates in; both upper and lower rpm limits. This ability to set the rpm “window” is critical to engine safety because engaging nitrous below 2500 rpm can cause detonation and engine damage. In addition, hitting your engine’s rev limiter with the nitrous engaged can lead to dangerous intake system backfires. The Traction Control Window Switch also lets you select what gear the nitrous starts to spray in. This is a huge benefit when racing on street tires or any application where traction is limited.


The ZEX™ Traction Control Window Switch is a completely programmable and fully electronic switch that is adjustable up to 20,000 rpm, making it perfect for any application, including high-revving motorcycle engines. Programming is simple, using just two buttons and the unit’s display screen. No rpm “chips” to lose or knobs to accidentally bump, the Traction Control Window Switch saves all of it’s programming internally and is fully compatible with any manufacturer’s nitrous system on the market today.


For more information about the new ZEX™ Traction Control Window Switch or any other ZEX™ product, please contact ZEX™ at 1-888-817-1008.
 

marcspaz

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Cool, Thanks for the info on that man. The Zex system was the one I was looking at today...Looks nice.
 

PenguinGT

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Well, I'e heard most folks run the wet kits because they are "safer."

I have no idea why though...
 

SoundGuyDave

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Speaking as a FORMER N2O user, the "wet" kits are cheaper and easier to install, and will give you the moderate performance boost that most people want. The "dry," multipoint setups are considerably more expensive, a lot harder to install properly, and are capable of SOOO much more power increase, that for an occasional user, it's just too far over the top. The "dry" kits from my experience, are essentially identical to the wet kits, except that instead of mounting a nozzle right in front of the T-body, there are individual nozzles mounted in EACH intake runner, for a total of 8... Assuming you have a stout enough fuel supply, a bottle warmer, and big enough lines, you could theoretically jet each of the nozzles for 150HP flow, and have a 1200HP shot, assuming that the motor will take it. Putting that on the ground is another matter, though...

On the mod motors, Steeda's delete plates are available with nitrous nozzle bungs drilled and tapped, and all the lines can be run under the intake manifold, with the solenoids mounted to the stock CMCV motor tab, for a nearly invisible setup. Plumbing it won't be that big of a hassle either, assuming you're handy with a tubing bender.

If you're looking for something sane, like a 75-150HP bump, then a single nozzle in the CAI tube is a lot easier, cheaper, and I guess "safer," since there's a lot less to go wrong. That said, I lifted the top half of a 351C with a 150HP setup, so it's still not foolproof. My issue was a hung N20 solenoid.
 
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