I don't think that mixing octane would be a problem. It seems they would just blend and be a compromise of each because of it. I was only trying to get to where I could run the canned 91 tune on my programmer which for whatever reason was a dud. I think that tune added too much timing advance and the knock sensors were pulling it out. The car seemed very confused and at one point seemed to not pull at all. Back to the 87 tune and all is well.
What have you done to your mustang today?
- Thread starter *JZ*
- Start date
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
Installed a Ford Performance A-arm brace (standard fitment on 05-09 convertibles & 07-09 GT500 but not on 05-09 V6 or GT coupe), and I also finally finished off fabricating and installing my custom composite K-member undertray for a further reduction in aerodynamic drag.
Note the cutout for the sump to allow oil changes without removing the undertray.
Note the cutout for the sump to allow oil changes without removing the undertray.
MasterofDisaster
Senior Member
So it bolts to the K-member? I assume you tapped the holes? I don't recall seeing any threads in them.
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
I lightly filed the holes round just enough to allow bolts with a 14mm thread to go through nice and snugly.
My 08 GT coupe, bought new by me, had that brace.
Midlife Crises
Senior Member
That brace came stock on my 2010 GT also. If I remember correctly it has four studs attached to it and uses flanged nuts. Nice work Dino.
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
There's plenty of space between my undertray and the cats so a heat shield isn't necessary.
Interesting. Is yours a Premium model? I don't know why Ford didn't just fit the brace to all 05-09 models. It's not as if it's an expensive part for Ford to penny pinch on.
Got back to checking out my BAP issues.
Removed it, took off the end plates to see what it looks like inside, and was disappointed to find just hard black goo and nothing else.
Apparently Kenne Bell covered up all the guts in that stuff, and all you see is a few wires coming out of it:
I found 2 iffy connections, one for the 17V wire going to the wire at the fuel pump driver module, and one at the main power wire going into the BAP.
Took them apart, re-did the connections with fresh wire and solder, heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape where needed, and also cut back, stripped and re-connected the wires for the un-used Hobbs switch and adjusting knob, since this setup is wired so the BAP is always putting out 17V.
Put it back together and tested it, and got a solid 17.09V out of it.
So there's a chance that all my fuel issues were caused by bad connections.
I'm not 100% sure of it, but at least one of the connections was pretty crappy, and it's now 100% solid.
While I was at it, I re-located the grounds for the relay and the BAP, and added a quick connect/disconnect setup for the 17V wire going to the FPDM from the BAP, so if I have to remove it in the future, I can easily unplug things and pull it.
In the above pic, the blue wire on the right/bottom is the upgraded power wire coming direct from the battery (with a 30A inline fuse near the battery), the thick red wire provides power to the BAP, and the black wire with the yellow connector close to the FPDM is the one providing 17.1V to the FPDM
Removed it, took off the end plates to see what it looks like inside, and was disappointed to find just hard black goo and nothing else.
Apparently Kenne Bell covered up all the guts in that stuff, and all you see is a few wires coming out of it:
I found 2 iffy connections, one for the 17V wire going to the wire at the fuel pump driver module, and one at the main power wire going into the BAP.
Took them apart, re-did the connections with fresh wire and solder, heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape where needed, and also cut back, stripped and re-connected the wires for the un-used Hobbs switch and adjusting knob, since this setup is wired so the BAP is always putting out 17V.
Put it back together and tested it, and got a solid 17.09V out of it.
So there's a chance that all my fuel issues were caused by bad connections.
I'm not 100% sure of it, but at least one of the connections was pretty crappy, and it's now 100% solid.
While I was at it, I re-located the grounds for the relay and the BAP, and added a quick connect/disconnect setup for the 17V wire going to the FPDM from the BAP, so if I have to remove it in the future, I can easily unplug things and pull it.
In the above pic, the blue wire on the right/bottom is the upgraded power wire coming direct from the battery (with a 30A inline fuse near the battery), the thick red wire provides power to the BAP, and the black wire with the yellow connector close to the FPDM is the one providing 17.1V to the FPDM
No, it was a deluxe with one option (spoiler delete). I'd take a pic but sold the car years ago.
I think that brace was one of the few chassis changes made for '07.
I remember reading that the additions made for the GT500 trickled down to the rest of the models
When I remember correctly, from 05-07 they used it only for the convertible and for all beginning in 08.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Finished up going into rear axle & replacing both the diff carrier & pinion inner\outer bearings & races w\ Ford Performance M-4210-MB kit (Hi TQ inner pinion bearing designed to run w\o the spacer) then set up (started this work Friday afternoon).
I should've done this last year when I replaced the whining Richmond EXCEL 3.90 gears (Ford 9" pattern 3.89 ratio 9 pinion\35 ring non-hunting) w\ a set of Motive Gear F888390 3.90 gears (3.91 ratio 11 pinion\43 ring full hunting). Used Motive Gear Ford 8.8" kit when the Richmond 3.90 gears were initially installed by a local shop & had low miles, so I decided to reuse them..........
The evidence I found showed this to not have been a smart idea........even though I actually checked them over prior reuse but obviously not close enough.
Too worn out & sore (also dark......finished up just past midnight) to put car on the ground to test drive. Tested all while car was still on jack stands (had rear axle relube all bearings & checked rear axle for any undue noise while under no load operation........all good w\ no leaks, runs or errors) & let it run in gear while I was picking\cleaning up for the night.
Test drive coming in AM............
PS--Put car on the ground & test drove her this morning.........am happy to report that all this is now resolved.
I should've done this last year when I replaced the whining Richmond EXCEL 3.90 gears (Ford 9" pattern 3.89 ratio 9 pinion\35 ring non-hunting) w\ a set of Motive Gear F888390 3.90 gears (3.91 ratio 11 pinion\43 ring full hunting). Used Motive Gear Ford 8.8" kit when the Richmond 3.90 gears were initially installed by a local shop & had low miles, so I decided to reuse them..........
The evidence I found showed this to not have been a smart idea........even though I actually checked them over prior reuse but obviously not close enough.
Too worn out & sore (also dark......finished up just past midnight) to put car on the ground to test drive. Tested all while car was still on jack stands (had rear axle relube all bearings & checked rear axle for any undue noise while under no load operation........all good w\ no leaks, runs or errors) & let it run in gear while I was picking\cleaning up for the night.
Test drive coming in AM............
PS--Put car on the ground & test drove her this morning.........am happy to report that all this is now resolved.
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On the KB boost a pump that gooey stuff is actually elostometer used to pot the electric connections. It’s there to protect the internals from vibration and moisture.
If it was just wires and a circuit board I would have been very disappointed in KB!
If it was just wires and a circuit board I would have been very disappointed in KB!
Is that plastic piece that says "remove for oil changes" in front of your new part a factory part? My 2005 does not have that.Installed a Ford Performance A-arm brace (standard fitment on 05-09 convertibles & 07-09 GT500 but not on 05-09 V6 or GT coupe), and I also finally finished off fabricating and installing my custom composite K-member undertray for a further reduction in aerodynamic drag.View attachment 89370 View attachment 89371 View attachment 89372 View attachment 89373
Note the cutout for the sump to allow oil changes without removing the undertray.
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
That engine splash shield (Ford part no. AR3Z-6C038A) was only fitted on 2010 models but it can also be retrofitted to 05-09 models. It's a simple bolt on affair and that, together with my custom K-member undertray, really cleans up the front underside of the car and reduces aerodynamic drag. The main benefit is improved highway fuel economy.
I try to do a DIY rebuild of that shield, OEM not easy to get here. If you have the opportunity, can you make pictures of the mounting points? E.g. are there nuts in the holes above the bolts of the steering rack? How is it mounted at the K-member? Thanks!
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Installed Dynamat Xtreme sound deadner under rear seat & trunk area of unibody as laid out in the Ford Mustang '10-'14 AcoustiShield .pdf that GriffX provided in this thread: https://www.s197forum.com/threads/w...he-most-difference.140239/page-6#post-2550605 post #105.
Only 2 words to type................DO IT!
Only 2 words to type................DO IT!
golkhl
forum member
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