GlassTop09
Senior Member
Got my DynaMat Xtreme sound deadner kit Firday but am too worn out\sore from replacing all bearings\races in rear axle so this work will be slated to start this coming weekend (need some recovery time).
The trunk floor plus the spare wheel/rear wheel wells would be the obvious places to start.I’m watching this thread too. I’d love to rid my car from all the interior noise I can.
I agree, and I would add that under the rear seat is a target too. Especially since the R/UCA attaches there. I would think it has the possibility of being pretty effective there as well.The trunk floor plus the spare wheel/rear wheel wells would be the obvious places to start.
Thanks for this .pdf! I have backed my Stang under the carport & have pulled the rear seat out to inspect\test area & I ID'd every spot under the rear seat that this .pdf showed to apply this before seeing it by just using my index finger & tapping on the metal. Getting ready to start on this project this evening (vac out & clean up then apply under the rear seat & trunk area just behind the rear seat backs........plan on hitting the trunk area the next day).The metal under the rear seat is very stiff, there is not so much effect from alubutyl there, I had the impression that the damping foam/fiber had a bigger effect. In the link
you can see where they place the butyl under the seat are the most effective areas.PDF.js viewer
www.quietride.com
I look forward to your report. Depending on your results, I may follow suit. Your advice have been really helpful and I appreciate that. Thanks.I have backed my Stang under the carport & have pulled the rear seat out to inspect\test area & I ID'd every spot under the rear seat that this .pdf showed to apply this before seeing it by just using my index finger & tapping on the metal. Getting ready to start on this project this evening (vac out & clean up then apply under the rear seat & trunk area just behind the rear seat backs........plan on hitting the trunk area the next day).
You covered the back of the long A-pillar plastic molding?FYI............................
Just got back from my drive to test the Dynaliner out I installed inside of both door A-pillar trim moldings (finally remembered what these were called) & on the inside of both kick panels & I was pretty shocked at just how much of a difference this made to the interior sound environment......really shocked.
Yes. I've known for quite some time that the retainer clips have loosened up some over time & also due to these A-pillar moldings having been removed more than once (I removed them myself back in summer 2018 to replace the glass roof's sliding sunshade cover & discovered that 1 of the mounting screws that held it in place was missing, indicating that I wasn't the only 1 that had been here)......and there is some plastic spacing molded inside of these pillar moldings designed to prevent A-pillar molding getting collapsed when reattaching the clips into the unibody that can vibrate against the unibody if these mounting clips get a little loose w\ their clamping grip or the plastic tabs these metal clips are attached to fatigue\break off or the Velcro mount that attaches the front of A-pillar to unibody that also locks into the dash is either missing or has lost "adhesion" then A-pillar molding will be loose & more susceptible to vibration thus rattling (found 1 of these on each A-pillar molding had broken off.....super glued 1 of them back on--the end clip that attaches to the plastic rear seat side panel--but the other 1 wouldn't reglue but some good ole Velcro took care of this).You covered the back of the long A-pillar plastic molding?