Where does extra sound insulation make the most difference?

[ghunt81]

So some of you may have read my saga last year where I found out my driver's floor pan was rusted through from water leaking into the interior. I fixed the floor, pitched the (waterlogged) factory sound insulation under the carpet, did sound deadener on the whole interior and trunk (minus the doors) and also added some foil faced foam insulation (this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/SOOMJ-Deadener-Material-Dampener-Aluminum/dp/B073RLZPJ7) under the seats and around the tunnel, though at the time that was all I had and was trying to get the car done.

I bought some more to put in this year before I get the car back out. Was thinking of putting it in the trunk and under the rear seats. I've heard doing the doors makes a big difference but knowing what the door panels look like, it looks like a pain in the ass to apply it due to all the openings and such (I do still have a good bit of sound deadener left actually). Any input?

 

[golkhl]

I recommend doing the spare tire well and trunk floor if you have enough material.

 

[DieHarder]

I've found insulating the drivers and passenger front tub sections (by removing the plastic wheel arches around the wheels and putting the material on the outside of the tubs) made a significant difference in the amount of road noise coming in from the outside. Knocked it down quite a bit in my case. I also did my doors by insulating the back of the plastic door panels themselves so I could keep the doors stock yet still cut knock down outside noise. Somewhat tedious cutting and fitting all of the pieces on the back of the panel but easier doing it on a bench vice dealing with the doors. Like golkhl I did the rest of the cabin including floors and trunk. Pay attention to the wheel well areas since most of road noise originates from there.

The only large area I haven't done is the roof but wondering if that will cut down on noise enough to make it worth it. Anyone done it? Results?

I can say the audible difference in cars I've done vs ones I haven't was significant enough to make it worth the time and expense, for me anyway. I don't have sound meters or other data to prove it however.

 

[Laga]

I recommend doing the spare tire well and trunk floor if you have enough material.

View attachment 82172

I did the full truck area, bottom and sides, wall the way forward to fuel pump openings under rear seat. Made huge difference.

 

[ghunt81]

I recommend doing the spare tire well and trunk floor if you have enough material.

View attachment 82172

As I said- that's all done, did it last year.

I'm adding more of the foil faced stuff you can see in this pic (3/8" thick foam)

Probably going to line that rear bulkhead and under the seats as much as I can without interfering the seat installation, and add some to the trunk area as well. probably on the sides and floor.

I've found insulating the drivers and passenger front tub sections (by removing the plastic wheel arches around the wheels and putting the material on the outside of the tubs) made a significant difference in the amount of road noise coming in from the outside.

I've heard that mentioned...you did that with dynamat-type deadener?

 

[DieHarder]

As I said- that's all done, did it last year.

I'm adding more of the foil faced stuff you can see in this pic (3/8" thick foam)

Probably going to line that rear bulkhead and under the seats as much as I can without interfering the seat installation, and add some to the trunk area as well. probably on the sides and floor.



I've heard that mentioned...you did that with dynamat-type deadener?

Yep, exactly. I'd also recommend matting both sides of the rear seats up to the back windows and then back towards the wheel wells to meet up with the matting you've already done in the trunk. Regarding the rear bulkhead I matted the entire area. No issues with the seats fitting. When I can I'll see what I have for pics and post some or take new ones when I'm able. Nice work on the repairs and laying down new mat/insulation by the way.

I use this stuff. Cost effective and good quality. Once you get it down; ain't ever coming up.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3921484299...4ZrvROx9vklkk3qTTLugI5jmtw==|tkp:BFBM0prG4fxf

 

[DieHarder]

So some of you may have read my saga last year where I found out my driver's floor pan was rusted through from water leaking into the interior. I fixed the floor, pitched the (waterlogged) factory sound insulation under the carpet, did sound deadener on the whole interior and trunk (minus the doors) and also added some foil faced foam insulation (this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/SOOMJ-Deadener-Material-Dampener-Aluminum/dp/B073RLZPJ7) under the seats and around the tunnel, though at the time that was all I had and was trying to get the car done.

I bought some more to put in this year before I get the car back out. Was thinking of putting it in the trunk and under the rear seats. I've heard doing the doors makes a big difference but knowing what the door panels look like, it looks like a pain in the ass to apply it due to all the openings and such (I do still have a good bit of sound deadener left actually). Any input?

Regarding the sound deadener you have I found that it works better if you put that down after the butyl. (By itself, it wasn't so great). Other concern is because it's 10mm thick it can be a pain when it comes to reinstalling items. You might have to trim some of it in places to get things to fit/lay down properly. But yeah, I'd use it.

 

[ghunt81]

I still have at least half a box of my sound deadener left, I didn't do the entire bulkhead on both sides but I got most of it so maybe I'll add some more. Not sure if I want to pull the front wheel tubs right now but if I have the wheels off sometime I'll see if i can slap some on there.

Also- yeah, I understand about the thickness of it causing issues. Much of it in front is replacing OEM sound deadener that I had to toss, the stuff in the back I'll have to see. Most of it will be going over where I already have sound deadener installed.

 

[DieHarder]

I still have at least half a box of my sound deadener left, I didn't do the entire bulkhead on both sides but I got most of it so maybe I'll add some more. Not sure if I want to pull the front wheel tubs right now but if I have the wheels off sometime I'll see if i can slap some on there.

Also- yeah, I understand about the thickness of it causing issues. Much of it in front is replacing OEM sound deadener that I had to toss, the stuff in the back I'll have to see. Most of it will be going over where I already have sound deadener installed.

I haven't done it yet but I was thinking of adding another layer to the front wheel tubs to see what that would do to cut down noise further (or not) and let you know how that goes. Here's an example of how I did the door panels. Tedious to cut out all of the little pieces but worth it IMO to Not have to mess with the doors frames and no issues maintaining anything on or inside of them. Be careful of adding too much butyl to the panels and test fit them now and then to be sure fit is still good. By the time I was done I had covered most of the plastic not already covered below. Best part is it knocked down noise quite a bit; quieter in the cabin; no rattles; stereo sounds better with less road noise and the car just feels more luxurious/higher end.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

You can buy the complete precut kits. I mean, I would do what you doing and cut my own but seems like for the cost it the way to go. If one didn't want to spend all that time cutting.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[ghunt81]

Fitting and cutting all the pieces is a pain in the ass, but those precut kits are way expensive.

Well I did both sides of the bulkead tonight inside the car, still gotta do the middle. Would like to put something under the rear package shelf as well, that might be a good place for the foam. This is very time consuming for sure.

 

[DieHarder]

Like the pre-cut as well but $100 - $150 compared to a grand? Not that well off. I'll take the extra time & labor route. Lot's of new toys I could get with the savings. Besides, I don't mind working on the car; it's actually therapeutic in a way and at the end of the day I know the job was done right. What I would like to have are the instructions for the body panels/cowl sections. Some pieces/parts there I don't recognize.

 

[ghunt81]

I just wish it wasn't so cramped trying to work inside the car, doesn't help that I'm 6'4" *shrugs* It was a lot easier last year with the seats and center console out but still tight and uncomfortable.

 

[DieHarder]

I just wish it wasn't so cramped trying to work inside the car, doesn't help that I'm 6'4" *shrugs* It was a lot easier last year with the seats and center console out but still tight and uncomfortable.

Hear ya brother; I'm 6'2" and early 60's now so can emphasize with your plight. The back seat/trunk area is especially a pain. To help with the legs I bought seat extenders but haven't installed them yet. I find the seats barely tolerable all of the way back and tilted a bit. After going through the instructions appears I'm going to have to remove the front tabs so still studying options for that. Otherwise, car is good though I haven't driven her but a handful of times all winter and now the cost of fuel is through the roof. Still, suppose I should be greatful as she gets 25mpg on a DOB setup and has been running fantastic.

Glad to hear your floors are all fixed. I'd recommend checking them yearly just to see how they're doing. If you start to notice any issues I'd recommend fiber glassing them. Guaranteed you'll never have any problems after that.

 

[ghunt81]

Well the floors are good but I still have water getting into the car. That's the next thing I'm looking to tackle. Going to do the Ford test of pressurizing the car, of course you have to strip the trunk to block the vents for that and I figured why not slap in a little more insulation while in there...and of course it has snowballed and now I have the rear seat and rear interior 1/4 panels out...

 

[DieHarder]

Here's that TSB again....might be quicker to just put some paper towels at each of the entrance points up front and spray the front of the car with a hose (or take it to a car wash). The other major area I had a problem with (on my son's 07) and had to have the dealer replace twice was the passenger side window molding. Apparently, that sucker is a bear to get installed properly. So far as I can tell I've had no problems since but I haven't pulled up the carpets yet this year to check the floors. Just now drying out enough to get in there and see how good/bad she fare'd over the winter. Wish me luck... ;D Not worried about the driver's side since I fiberglassed it but haven't done the passenger side. If I do I'll take some step-by-step pics.

 

[ghunt81]

I have a feeling it's those window moldings...and I wish they weren't $90 each, oof. Pretty sure both sides are leaking since I had water on the floor on both sides.

Anyway. Got sound deadener on the underside of about 60% of the rear shelf, hoping to finish that up this week. I think that will make a decent difference as there is basically almost no insulation whatsoever on that from the factory. Looks like it will leave me with 2 sheets out of the box I had left from last year so I may throw those under the rear seat in the two spots I didn't get last time.

 

[DieHarder]

To test out the fix on the windows (after the dealer said it was fixed) I removed the passenger seat and carpet pieces. Then took it through a car wash. Water was coming in like crazy. Took it back to the dealer for another try. After the second time no more water (at least that I could see coming in). Last year went thru the entire front end sealing up all of the usual suspects including the base of the windshield and seams that run from one side of the car (where the wiper motor sits) to the other that water pools in when it rains. We'll see what the floors look like shortly. Hopefully, they're ok but who knows.

 

[ghunt81]

Well I did the "pressurize the cabin and spray soapy water" test today and had all kinds of bubbles coming out around the upper window trim, so I guess it's time to order those. Hopefully that is the only place it is coming in, I didn't see any at the firewall pinch weld or on the cowl panel grommets (which I replaced last year).

 

[DieHarder]

Good luck replacing those suckers; they're difficult and fiddly to get right. Be careful installing them; it's super easy to tear the rubber and/or break the clips. Dealer charges an arm-an-leg to install them. In my case they finally got them right after two trys. Have to check the floors in my son's car in the near future. Wish me luck.