Where does extra sound insulation make the most difference?

[ghunt81]

Yeah I'm sure it is...looks like a crappy design.

Do those trim pieces just pull straight out to come off?

 

[DieHarder]

The dealer replaced mine. The old rubber had small slots on the back where the clips go. Haven't found any detail in the manual yet. If I do I'll post it.

 

[DieHarder]

Yeah I'm sure it is...looks like a crappy design.

Do those trim pieces just pull straight out to come off?

Okay, here's a vid on pulling that moulding. Same procedure for passenger side.

 

[DieHarder]

So the part numbers to replace the trim seals are:
Passenger: 7R3Z-63025A70-A
Driver: 7R3Z-63025A71-A
Kinda expensive at + $95 ea. Not that I'm advocating for it but I suspect you could substitute 1/8 inch dense foam tape from HD or Lowes if you were in a pinch.

 

[ghunt81]

So Varsity Ford has them for $90.20 each plus $8.28 shipping. Still ridiculous but the best deal I was able to find.

 

[DieHarder]

Yeah, go for it. Will solve a lot of headaches in the future.

 

[ghunt81]

Already ordered, just waiting on them to get in. Definitely explains how water was getting in both sides though, hopefully this fixes it for a few years at least.

 

[DieHarder]

Ordered a set for my son's car since they probably need changing anyway. Found them at Get OEM parts.com for $88/ea though shipping is $15 so not saving any money.

Passenger: 7R3Z-63025A70-A
Driver: 7R3Z-63025A71-A

For anyone reading this if you have water in your floor pans and you've already sealed up grommets and whatnot and still can't figure out where the water is coming from you might want to replace these trim gaskets since many/most are likely 10 - 15 years old and have perished. Especially prevalent in warmer environments. A couple of different approaches here (you can get away with just letting the big rubber gasket hang down and not completely removing it if you don't want to risk breaking the clips) to replace the trim gasket. You decide which you prefer.

If you're on a budget this gentlemen opted for a very inexpensive route. Seems like it should work fine; especially if you can't afford (or bring yourself to spend) 15 times what the 3M gasket material costs.

 

[ghunt81]

Damn man I shoulda done what that guy did. I thought the seals needed to have all those slots and stuff in them.

 

[DieHarder]

Agree. Since I have two cars I'm going to try it both ways and I'll let the forum know what I find. Most difficult part will be coming up with the right gasket material. Pending that, makes sense to me to go the budget route.

 

[ghunt81]

Started working on mine tonight since the seals finally came in yesterday.

The old seals were an absolute mess. Goo gone seems to work fairly well on the old adhesive but still a lot of scraping required (very thankful for the small 1/2" wide plastic scraper I got as part of a kit years ago). I did one application and got most of the adhesive off, but some of it was still pretty crusty so I put on a second application and going to let it sit overnight tonight.

Saw on a post elsewhere that a guy said he did this and then washed both trim seals with dish soap- definitely going to do that because goo gone is very oily and these trim pieces have a lot of crevices that it can get into.

Hopefully will have this wrapped up within a couple days, depends on when I can find time to work on it.

 

[ghunt81]

Soooo gotta dig this one up again...

We had a couple absolutely torrential downpours the last couple days, I was standing on my porch yesterday and noticed condensation on the inside of my windows...

Got in the car today and yep, there was some water in the driver's side floor (didn't check the passenger side). I don't even know where this water is still getting in! Guess I need to pressurize the cabin again...ugh, did not think this would be this much of a pain in the ass to track down and fix.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Got in the car today and yep, there was some water in the driver's side floor (didn't check the passenger side). I don't even know where this water is still getting in!

The material around the cowl cover retaining grommets under the windshield may have perished. It's a fairly common problem:

 

[ghunt81]

I replaced all those with brand new ones either last year or the year before, can't remember.

In one of the posts above I mentioned I did the water spray test with the cabin pressurized, all along the top of the firewall and along the tops of the doors, and the only place I saw any bubbles was along the door trim seals, which I replaced.

 

[DieHarder]

I replaced all those with brand new ones either last year or the year before, can't remember.

In one of the posts above I mentioned I did the water spray test with the cabin pressurized, all along the top of the firewall and along the tops of the doors, and the only place I saw any bubbles was along the door trim seals, which I replaced.

Those door trim seals are notorious to get right. You might have to add a bead of rubber sealant along the entire length of the gasket to get it to seal. You've got one chance to get it right or you'll end up redoing it completely. When I took my son's to the dealer I had to take it back twice. The second time they added sealant all along the length of the seal/gasket. I was going to replace it (passenger side) when I did the driver's side but decided not to when I realized what they had done and that I'd probably have to destroy the trim taking it off. Far as I can tell it's been holding so better to leave it alone than create another entry point for water.

 

[GriffX]

I used universal self adhesive seal foam and made some holes in it. 5$

 

[GriffX]

I've found insulating the drivers and passenger front tub sections (by removing the plastic wheel arches around the wheels and putting the material on the outside of the tubs) made a significant difference in the amount of road noise coming in from the outside. Knocked it down quite a bit in my case. I also did my doors by insulating the back of the plastic door panels themselves so I could keep the doors stock yet still cut knock down outside noise. Somewhat tedious cutting and fitting all of the pieces on the back of the panel but easier doing it on a bench vice dealing with the doors. Like golkhl I did the rest of the cabin including floors and trunk. Pay attention to the wheel well areas since most of road noise originates from there.

The only large area I haven't done is the roof but wondering if that will cut down on noise enough to make it worth it. Anyone done it? Results?

I can say the audible difference in cars I've done vs ones I haven't was significant enough to make it worth the time and expense, for me anyway. I don't have sound meters or other data to prove it however.

Sorry for bringing this up. I had a 500 Mi drive in heavy rain and i was deaf from the rain noise of the rear tires. What have you done to the front wheels exactly and any idea especially for the rear tires?
I already started with the trunk now, have some alu-butyl and self-sticking 1 cm cotton composite sound absorber stuff.
Thanks!

 

[pass1over]

Sorry for bringing this up. I had a 500 Mi drive in heavy rain and i was deaf from the rain noise of the rear tires. What have you done to the front wheels exactly and any idea especially for the rear tires?
I already started with the trunk now, have some alu-butyl and self-sticking 1 cm cotton composite sound absorber stuff.
Thanks!

I put dynamat on the inside of the rear wheel arches and it made a huge difference. The inside of my cabin is also covered from the trunk to about halfway under the front seats. I have not done the roof yet. But covering the back half reduced a ton of road and tire noise.

 

[DieHarder]

Sorry for bringing this up. I had a 500 Mi drive in heavy rain and i was deaf from the rain noise of the rear tires. What have you done to the front wheels exactly and any idea especially for the rear tires?
I already started with the trunk now, have some alu-butyl and self-sticking 1 cm cotton composite sound absorber stuff.
Thanks!

What you're trying to do is cover the majority of the tub w/sound deadening material. Whether that be butyl or a foam product is up to you. I liked the butyl myself. In my case I did the entire interior of the car up to the base of the windows starting from the front passenger foot wells (on the inside of the car) and extending all the way back into the trunk. I probably used about 50-60 sq ft of material. I know I used 2 boxes of the stuff (on two cars) and on a third now (finishing up some minor areas on my son's car). The goal is to cover all exposed areas w/material. Leave no gaps.

For the front wheel wells (exterior) take the tires off; then the plastic wheel wells and cover the exterior of the drivers & passengers tub starting from the top to the bottom with butyl. When handling butyl I recommend cutting it in strips. I typically would cut mine about 4" width and the length of the roll it came in. Then roll it down with the tool they provide or go get a roller from a hardware store if they didn't. The combination of covering the exterior wheel wells and the entire interior all the way back to and including the rear seats does a good job of cutting down the majority of exterior noise.

For the rear wheel wells cover the entire trunk area and work your way up the wheel wells. Cover all exposed areas and do the same for the rear quarters and top of the trunk. To really knock down noise add a layer of 5mm or 10mm self-stick foam (black closed cell). The 5mm is easier to work with.

The only area I haven't done is the ceiling. I know I should do it but I just haven't gotten around to it yet and I'm somewhat concerned with summer heat and long term material stability.

One more thing... buy decent butyl; the stuff I bought was 70 - 80 mil with aluminum on one side. Maybe difficult to work with but worth the results/money.

This is the stuff I used:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3916858600...99hNY-f:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!44130!US!-1

This stuff looks pretty good too:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295341455282?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=244238&meid=0f29444aa56140f59a01309b46b25905&pid=101506&rk=7&rkt=25&sd=392148429978&itm=295341455282&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedNoPLX&_trksid=p2047675.c101506.m1851&amdata=cksum:2953414552820f29444aa56140f59a01309b46b25905|enc:AQAHAAABEAzdIKOcP6rVYsexH8mCu6bA2DY6ElM67JKComxjxAnyT9vOhsWu88eBePRdeUyezF0KDA7BEV0Wzxi5ZF4sTWisrWj5kCO3n2JuWsGGoTYlq1NSJbl3hP5e%2FtxqpAqLGN32NMTLUfsp46PM0o2l244cwIT00iAgkBfGwJ89VCezhX%2FagNR2mHOy8KbTs3YvD3UGi4ta6W78PV415tsrwWCo2gFzW9KN6ZBzpLFmrvIdhD%2F1x2aJ%2BOkcpR0xnZejDbABinP%2BeUhHXzKaYGGkMuj0nJ98wQ%2BcYKInuqwrqJ6NqDAnPbcZA%2FKJ8lt5KMx2Y0hNV%2F3bh3RGafHYZtjp2Iqu1ujnOtl2H857vLGcRpJ%2F|ampidL_CLK|clp:2047675
I will tell you this. Would I do it again if I had to? Hell yes!!!

 

[GriffX]

I put dynamat on the inside of the rear wheel arches and it made a huge difference. The inside of my cabin is also covered from the trunk to about halfway under the front seats. I have not done the roof yet. But covering the back half reduced a ton of road and tire noise.

Is it hard to make it stick? There is some black coating inside.