Where does extra sound insulation make the most difference?

Started to cover the right trunk inner liner with self adhesive automotive cotton type sound insulation (1 cm thick).
I guess a less stiffer material would be easier to apply, but I use what I have.

 

Understand constraints; however if you can swing it the wheel wells are one of the places you're going to want to use butyl and add a second layer of foam/aluminum blanket. It's the only way I know of to really knock down road noise. Good luck.

 

Yes, on the metal I used butyl, but did not a full cover only on the middle of the sheets according to the AcoustiShield pdf. So the vibration of the metal will be attenuated and the air noise in the cotton plates. I hope so Learning by doing.

(and will not buy additional butyl. You guys don't get too much news from Europe I guess, but living costs are crazy high here. Heating costs tripled and electricity doubled in fall 22 and my mandatory health insurance is 9000$ now per year, and food increased 80%)

 

I’m in the process of replacing all four of my speakers in my 05. Since the door panels are off, I decided to put the butyl material inside of the doors.
What a PITA. Had to cut sheets into 6” wide strips to get into holes, then fill in small spaces. My arms are all scraped up from not fitting through holes. Attacking rear speakers today, which require removal of rear side trim panels. I have entire trunk area and under rear seats all ready covered, so I will cover whatever exterior areas that get exposed. I’ll post if it makes a difference.

 

So I got the car out today before the snow hits. The butyl on the outside door skin made a big difference in reducing road noise. I had all ready done the trunk area before. It also makes the car sound more solid when you close the door. Here is an example of no butyl in the fender vs butyl in the door.
https://youtube.com/shorts/cN09Wvoe1Ps?feature=share

 

What is the easiest way to remove the headliner? Do I need to remove the lower quater panel trim? (I hope not) (the guy who invents these christmas tree pins should be punished )

 

Any pointers for a convertible? I've done the trunk, under the spare, and under the rear seat bottom with fleabay foil faced foam mat. It helped some but my exhaust drones some.... Can't really access the inner quarter panel on the very.

 

Did the roof, was not difficult just time consuming and not really pleasant. Added alu-butyl stripes with
1 cm sound insulation. The knocking test made a huge difference.

 

Nice work, makes what factory has shameful. Way well done, and to see insulation intact. Not bunch of bits or torn in half pieces. Believe rewards here are going to be very fruitful.

 

The side panel will be more problematic than the roof I guess. The body panels are like a speakerbox. The 400mu Alu did not much when knocking on it. I added some insulation on the inner side of the plastic cover.
I don't think that the room behind is accessible to fill it with some material. But, I made a starting point.

 

I ended up covering the entire floor pan and rear areas all the way up to the windows as access to the interior of the panel is almost non-existent (the only area you can get into is behind the safety belt mechanism. It's a good idea to pull it while you have the interior apart and check for rust but your car looks brand new so probably not an issue). I'll do the roof this year and that should do it for me. I've done everything else. So far, I've avoided using butyl on the inside of exterior panels (like the doors and rear trunk areas) just in case of small damage/dents. (Butyl is a bitch to get off panels or anywhere else to make any repairs). Let us know how much quieter things turned out.

 

Not trying to change anybody’s mind, just question? Did similar can’t remember when all or what now (‘90 Escort was one) but filled cavities with a non-flammable batten insulation. Seemed to work great, not house type but used to insulate steam and oil boilers- commercial/industrial grades. Probably not available or too expensive. Still have a few bats today, use around my indoor generator.

Of coarse I know about Carbon Monoxide deaths. Occurs in ME more often than not but… it’s why you set up with fresh battery detection for that and even more important have over-adequate fresh air make-up air for combustion engine. Run entire house on my new one, heats entire garage when running. Completely hard-wired myself DPDT Main Switching. Used old feed to power battery charger (low V). No brag, point being why not bring other ideas into picture. Cars can include differ technology beyond cars, just sayin’. Maybe can find a photo? Naw, but look at this one (Navy service). Know out of context and back to topic. Tied up next ship over (MC Fox).

 

Removing is a good point. I tried to remove a 2x4 piece, no easy way to do it, was not so necessary so I give up. For exterior panels it is probably better to use the heat sticking plastic-rubber-whatever sheets?
Good idea to access the B-pillar-wheel well space through the seat belt roll. Maybe fill it up with acoustic fiber mats, now it sounds like a steel drum.
No winter driving is the key to no rust I have an old winter only car, therefore it will take some time for the test drive