Where does extra sound insulation make the most difference?

[GriffX]

What you're trying to do is cover the majority of the tub w/sound deadening material. Whether that be butyl or a foam product is up to you. I liked the butyl myself. In my case I did the entire interior of the car up to the base of the windows starting from the front passenger foot wells (on the inside of the car) and extending all the way back into the trunk. I probably used about 130 sq ft of material. The goal is to cover the entire area w/material. Leave no gaps.

For the front wheel wells (exterior) take the tires off; then the plastic wheel wells and cover the exterior of the drivers & passengers tub starting from the top to the bottom with butyl. When handling butyl I recommend cutting it in strips. I typically would cut mine about 4" width and the length of the roll it came in. Then roll it down with the tool they provide or go get a roller from a hardware store if they didn't. The combination of covering the exterior wheel wells and the entire interior all the way back to and including the rear seats does a good job of cutting down the majority of exterior noise.

For the rear wheel wells cover the entire trunk area and work your way up the wheel wells. Cover all exposed areas and do the same for the rear quarters and top of the trunk. To really knock noise add a layer of 5mm or 10mm self-stick foam (black closed cell). The 5mm is easier to work with.

The only area I haven't done is the ceiling. I know I should do it but I just haven't gotten around to it yet and I'm somewhat concerned with summer heat and long term material stability.

One more thing... buy decent butyl; the stuff I bought was 70 - 80 mil with aluminum on one side. Maybe difficult to work with but worth the results/money.

This is the stuff I used:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3916858600...99hNY-f:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!44130!US!-1

This stuff looks pretty good too:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/295341455282?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=244238&meid=0f29444aa56140f59a01309b46b25905&pid=101506&rk=7&rkt=25&sd=392148429978&itm=295341455282&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedNoPLX&_trksid=p2047675.c101506.m1851&amdata=cksum:2953414552820f29444aa56140f59a01309b46b25905|enc:AQAHAAABEAzdIKOcP6rVYsexH8mCu6bA2DY6ElM67JKComxjxAnyT9vOhsWu88eBePRdeUyezF0KDA7BEV0Wzxi5ZF4sTWisrWj5kCO3n2JuWsGGoTYlq1NSJbl3hP5e%2FtxqpAqLGN32NMTLUfsp46PM0o2l244cwIT00iAgkBfGwJ89VCezhX%2FagNR2mHOy8KbTs3YvD3UGi4ta6W78PV415tsrwWCo2gFzW9KN6ZBzpLFmrvIdhD%2F1x2aJ%2BOkcpR0xnZejDbABinP%2BeUhHXzKaYGGkMuj0nJ98wQ%2BcYKInuqwrqJ6NqDAnPbcZA%2FKJ8lt5KMx2Y0hNV%2F3bh3RGafHYZtjp2Iqu1ujnOtl2H857vLGcRpJ%2F|ampidL_CLK|clp:2047675
I will tell you this. Would I do it again if I had to? Hell yes!!!

Thanks a lot. I started to use some strips according to the AcoustiShield plan above in this thread.
Need to buy some more and will buy some heavy material. I have some old stuff from HiFi equipment with 0.3 mm aluminium from my younger days
If you get older, you need a quiet car .... And I guess a good chiropractic after crawling inside the trunk.

 

[ghunt81]

The tar-type matting will stick to basically any clean surface, it's super sticky.

 

[GriffX]

I removed the rear quater panel trim and the rear seats, the OEM insulation is almost nothing. A 0,5 cm thick cotton piece and when you knock on the metal it drones a lot. No wonder that rain can make you deaf It is probably a good area to use the bitumen plates first right under the window.

 

[DieHarder]

I removed the rear quater panel trim and the rear seats, the OEM insulation is almost nothing. A 0,5 cm thick cotton piece and when you knock on the metal it drones a lot. No wonder that rain can make you deaf It is probably a good area to use the bitumen plates first right under the window.

Take some photos and post your progress. Others will benefit and you can ask questions if you like. For the area you're working on I'd recommend laying down butyl first and follow that up with 10mm insulation or foam especially in the main tub and rear seat area. And you're right OEM insulation isn't really all that great; hence the reason you're improving it.

 

[Juice]

While interior noise is subjective, I can tell you that one of my set of tires is unbearable for noise. And the low mile stock sized tires are quiet. I only realized this after putting on my stock 17" 'winter' tires and driving on them for a few days.
Need to find a big empty lot so I can 'get rid' of the tread on them, Roadkill style. lol Just cannot bring myself to throw out tires with some tread left on them.

 

[DieHarder]

While interior noise is subjective, I can tell you that one of my set of tires is unbearable for noise. And the low mile stock sized tires are quiet. I only realized this after putting on my stock 17" 'winter' tires and driving on them for a few days.
Need to find a big empty lot so I can 'get rid' of the tread on them, Roadkill style. lol Just cannot bring myself to throw out tires with some tread left on them.

Point taken. Only so much one can do about noisy tires...

 

[ghunt81]

I removed the rear quater panel trim and the rear seats, the OEM insulation is almost nothing. A 0,5 cm thick cotton piece and when you knock on the metal it drones a lot. No wonder that rain can make you deaf It is probably a good area to use the bitumen plates first right under the window.

Yeah there is basically nothing outside of those pieces that look like they are made of dryer lint.

I did the butyl deadener, and then as much of the foil-faced foam as I could (some spots it won't really fit). TBH I can't tell how much of a difference it made because my exhaust is kinda loud right now.

 

[DieHarder]

Yeah there is basically nothing outside of those pieces that look like they are made of dryer lint.

I did the butyl deadener, and then as much of the foil-faced foam as I could (some spots it won't really fit). TBH I can't tell how much of a difference it made because my exhaust is kinda loud right now.

I got stock exhaust and it's actually quiet; even with the blower. ;D
On the freeway it's just as quiet as my big SUV...

My son's car however is a different story. Need to add some more foam and his exhaust is louder than mine. Still, the butyl does help somewhat.

 

[JC SSP]

Definitely consider, the doors, roof and trunk area for sure... then floorboard and firewall. I never thought about the front wheel wells as mentioned by another member, that sounds like a great idea too.

I did butyl on the doors, rear deck lid and trunk area... more for sound acoustics when I replaced stock speakers with Polk Audio.

In retrospect I should have purchased a large roll of Dynomat and done some additional areas...

It is common knowledge that sounded deadener adds weight to a car. Old hot rodder trick was to remove all jute, matting and even scrapping some of that sticky stuff off the chassis just to lose a few pounds. So if you're looking to put your ride on a flyweight diet this might not be what you're looking for. Just my .02 cents.

 

[GriffX]

I take some pictures, I added some heavy Al-butyl on the most droning parts. There is plenty of room to the plastic trim, I will stick noise dampening sheets for cars on it. The area between front seat belt and trim is totally empty. The result of the butyl alone was disappointing on knocking test so far.....

 

[DieHarder]

Definitely consider, the doors, roof and trunk area for sure... then floorboard and firewall. I never thought about the front wheel wells as mentioned by another member, that sounds like a great idea too.

I did butyl on the doors, rear deck lid and trunk area... more for sound acoustics when I replaced stock speakers with Polk Audio.

In retrospect I should have purchased a large roll of Dynomat and done some additional areas...

It is common knowledge that sounded deadener adds weight to a car. Old hot rodder trick was to remove all jute, matting and even scrapping some of that sticky stuff off the chassis just to lose a few pounds. So if you're looking to put your ride on a flyweight diet this might not be what you're looking for. Just my .02 cents.

Yeah, I figure I'm at least 50 - 60 lbs heavier if not more. I've used at least one of the 50 lb rolls and added foil/foam over that. It is quieter so worth it IMO.

 

[GriffX]

If you want to save some weight it is enough at the big panels like door or trunk to cover 1/3 around the swing spot in the middle.
I finished one quater panel now, covered the metal with butyl and the plastic trim inside with 1 cm cotton car dampening sheets. Knocking at the trim is a bit deeper in sound than the unchanged. I will probably add butyl in the inside on the other side first, right now it is like knocking on a cello.

 

[Cum Grano Salis]

Excellent projects. Had friend with one of the C3 Corvettes that DIDN’T have the cockpit floor tub insulated. Drove through winter on good days, was talking with him one cold morning and no need to use heater. The floor heated up so much from exhaust almost made feet sweat, fiberglass body- steel frame and flooring. Would surmise the S197’s could be identical without that extra thick floor layer? Trunk must be same difference with the axlebacks tucked up under, never checked.

 

[GriffX]

Excellent projects. Had friend with one of the C3 Corvettes that DIDN’T have the cockpit floor tub insulated. Drove through winter on good days, was talking with him one cold morning and no need to use heater. The floor heated up so much from exhaust almost made feet sweat, fiberglass body- steel frame and flooring. Would surmise the S197’s could be identical without that extra thick floor layer? Trunk must be same difference with the axlebacks tucked up under, never checked.

AFAIK Ford added some insulation from year to year. My 07 has no insulation on the driveshaft tunnel and it's getting very hot after a long drive. I think they added some from 08 on. Similar in the trunk. The side liner at my car is blank, I will add some of the cotton plates if they stick. I know at least from 11 there is some white noise cancel stuff attached to it. Also behind the quater panel liner at the rear seat.
When the clogged coal water drain flooded my passenger side, I have seen that the floor has some noise/heat insulation below the front seats.

Next, I will remove the right quater panel liner add butyl on the metal and inside the plastic liner, combined with this car cotton stuff and post some pictures. (I'm on recovery after a stupid MD harmed me during a small surgery There is no trust in any MD left after these last years)

 

[Hollowdweller]

Any thoughts on this one…good/bad? Figure I may as well do this too while cars apart. Can get 62sqft (if math is correct) for $90! Figure I’ll do fender wells, floorboard, under rear seat, and trunk…think 62sqft will be enough?

 

[Hollowdweller]

Says it’s 10mil think

 

[DieHarder]

Any thoughts on this one…good/bad? Figure I may as well do this too while cars apart. Can get 62sqft (if math is correct) for $90! Figure I’ll do fender wells, floorboard, under rear seat, and trunk…think 62sqft will be enough?
View attachment 85249

It's similar to what I used. Only caution would be if you have/get leaks it'll hold water so I would only put it on top of a butyl product. That's the best combination to knock down noise and insulate the interior. Additionally, placing it down under carpet can make it tight when reassembling so ensure you account for any clearance issues; seat mountings, etc. Otherwise, yeah, 62 sq feet should cover interior foot wells, floorboards, rear seats and probably most of the trunk. Just be sure you do the sides and run it up to the base of the rear windows in the rear seats. Then go after the trunk. Also pay attention to rear wheel wells (interior); use butyl first and lay the mat down as a second layer. Avoid using that mat on anything external (i.e. exterior fender wells since it does hold water if it gets wet). Use the butyl on the fender wells if you're going to go that far.

 

[ghunt81]

If that stuff does hold water it's still not nearly as bad as the factory stuff that is a total sponge. Where the factory deadening held water, it will at least escape from the foam deadener- as I had posted, I am still having issues with water getting into my car and I did get water down in where I had some of this foam and it would be gone within a couple days.

I think that same foam stuff is sold all over ebay, I used that over the butyl on my floors, tunnel, bulkheads and trunk.

 

[GriffX]

And, if you use the sound deadening stuff, it is probably not necessary to cover everything in butyl first, only the swing spot of the metal (?)
Because of the water problem of the floor, I would prefer the bitumen/plastic heat forming shields instead of butyl to avoid water pockets (?)

 

[DieHarder]

And, if you use the sound deadening stuff, it is probably not necessary to cover everything in butyl first, only the swing spot of the metal (?)
Because of the water problem of the floor, I would prefer the bitumen/plastic heat forming shields instead of butyl to avoid water pockets (?)

To take care of the floors in my son's '07 which was leaking and beginning to show signs of corrosion I simply removed everything and fiber glassed the floors. Guaranteed no worries; that fix will probably outlast the car. Then laid down butyl and the mat; works pretty good knocking down noise. Overkill? For sure but the quiet ride is luxurious.

Yeah, will sell the car before I ever try to take this stuff up.

3 layers Fiberglass matting drivers side


Fiberglass mat driver's rear floor area.


Butyl mat over fiberglass