What have you done to your mustang today?

[JC SSP]

Not start a new thread but water/methanol injection could be a solution….

 

[Candy10]

It's a lot more challenging to keep the IATs of a forced induction set up closer to ambient simply because compressing the intake gases generates heat.
You can at least fit a large intercooler behind the front bumper if you have a turbo or a centrifugal blower, and this makes it easier to limit the rise in IAT when driving hard. However positive displacement blowers have their own water (coolant) cooled heat exchanger and since underhood space is limited, the heat exchanger is small and requires a pump to circulate coolant from a separate tank to conduct the heat away.
Installing a water-meth injection system to provide additional cooling of the intake charge might alleviate your problem.

Meth injection, good call. Thank you for adding to my to-do list LOL

 

[JC SSP]

LOL I have it on my to-do list on my Audi.

 

[GriffX]

The Bullitt or FR intake really gets the outside air. I was curious and did a logfile run to look at this.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

Finished my GT500 dual fuel pump upgrade, also did a wire upgrade on while there, cleaned up some wiring under the hood, installed 47lb injectors, and started tuning with Lito. It's been an adventure since April when I started it. All the wiring coaching has come from Casey (rocketcarx). I have learned a lot over the last 2 wiring projects. Wireeverything.com is the way to go. I like clean and neat, and this was the ticket.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[crjackson]

Feel free to come and visit me, and upgrade my fuel delivery system too. All the free beer and BBQ you want. I have 2 spare guest rooms, take your pick, or bring the RV. Free hook-up, bring your tools.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

Feel free to come and visit me, and upgrade my fuel delivery system too. All the free beer and BBQ you want. I have 2 spare guest rooms, take your pick .

Lol, this was a struggle!

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[Miker]

Changed the oil and filter for the first time. It was done just before I bought it. Was setup to change out the TR3650 fluid but I checked it with a bent q-tip and it was bright red and smelled fresh. So buttoned that back up as it shifts like butter. And just as I was finishing cleaning up the mailman dropped off a Diablo Intune II that I picked up on FB marketplace from a very nice guy in TN. I had added 10 gallons of 91 octane to 87 octane I had in the car a week ago and my tank is still half full. So I didn't want to install the 91 octane tune yet. I installed the 87 octane canned tune. I was quite surprised by how much snappier the car was. Gone was the lag it had in the lower rpms. Also the car seemed more powerful throughout the rpm range. I am going to run this tank out and then install the 91 octane tune but honestly the 87 octane tune added exactly what I was looking for.

 

[WJBertrand]

Got my seats recovered and installed a redline shifter boot with red stitching to match:

Before:
:
After:

 

[AHaze]

Welded up some stainless lines to replace the mess of rubber fuel line I had going to my catch can. Replaced the repurposed Motorcraft PCV valve with a nice aluminum check valve in the setup as well. Of course, as soon as I was done, I saw several things I wish I had done differently but whatever.
View media item 8856

 

[Iceman62]

pulled mods off

Guessing you're upgrading...something/somehow???

 

[Candy10]

Finally got my 130mm mono TB and new MAF housing/sensor installed, and tune redone. As for numbers, this gets a bit confusing, I almost feel like I should make it its own post for discussion. Two completely different dynos, so hard to say exactly what I gained. But the ass-dyno says we gained quite a bit.

I’ve no complaints, except the MAF Kenne Bell sold me showed 4.86v while data logging, max is 5v. Next round of upgrades, this could be a problem. Always something

 

[Gladams]

But my boomba racing trans mount back in. Took it out when I had the stock shifter in, had a bit too much NVH. I have the Barton Hybrid 3 transmission mounted and I was surprised that there wasn’t any NVH at all and shifts are real quick and crisp. Wish I would have put it back in when we installed the shifter. Lesson learned. Thanks.

 

[GriffX]

Replaced the upper grill hook with M5 bolt, no more rattle, easier to remove the grill

 

[Gabe]

Wife's Shelby: replaced the old NGK TR6 spark plugs with new iridium TR7XI plugs, gapped to . 028" and cleaned the throttle body. Old plugs had opened up to about . 031-.032" over the last few years they were in there (probably about 3k-5k miles at most).

 

[Gabe]

Did some diagnostics on my 40A Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.

Installed 8 years ago, now I'm getting weird voltage readings out of it. Sometimes it's putting out 14.8, sometimes 15.x, sometimes 16.3-16.6V.
This is measured at the relay terminals, right there by the FPDM.
So does this mean that the BAP is going bad?

I had a couple issues with the car not starting over the last couple months, this is how this whole testing started.
The first time it happened I bypassed the BAP and the car started, allowed me to putt-putt it home. Got it home, removed the bypass, it wouldn't start, replaced the relay and it started. So I thought it was a bad relay, but with the new relay the car again didn't start about a month later.

Today I re-installed the relay that I thought was bad, and the car started. WTF ?

I don't hear of them going bad often, but I guess everything can fail eventually.

 

[Miker]

Found the unfindable. I think this came as part of a handling kit that Ford sold back in the day. Also sold as a STB for the V6. Same as the Bullitt brace but black. Clears the plenum cover easily. Does push on the hood insulation but the hood closes fine.

 

[crjackson]

Did some diagnostics on my 40A Kenne Bell boost-a-pump.

Installed 8 years ago, now I'm getting weird voltage readings out of it. Sometimes it's putting out 14.8, sometimes 15.x, sometimes 16.3-16.6V.
This is measured at the relay terminals, right there by the FPDM.
So does this mean that the BAP is going bad?

I had a couple issues with the car not starting over the last couple months, this is how this whole testing started.
The first time it happened I bypassed the BAP and the car started, allowed me to putt-putt it home. Got it home, removed the bypass, it wouldn't start, replaced the relay and it started. So I thought it was a bad relay, but with the new relay the car again didn't start about a month later.

Today I re-installed the relay that I thought was bad, and the car started. WTF ?

I don't hear of them going bad often, but I guess everything can fail eventually.

Gabe, have you contacted KB? They might be able to provide a diagnostic procedure, or even let you ship it to them for testing.

 

[Ret]

Miker

Anyone on here can tell you I'm no mechanic. But your entry about mixing the premium with the regular gas peaked my interest. When I bought my 2012 GT convertible, I read an article that said don't mix the two octanes. My car has the Coyote engine with 412 HP. The article said don't mix the two as the computer adjusted the car to run on one or the other.

 

[Gabe]

Gabe, have you contacted KB? They might be able to provide a diagnostic procedure, or even let you ship it to them for testing.

I have not.
I went back to the car last night, started it and checked the voltage coming out of the bap. It kept bouncing from 14.5 to 17.7, and hitting numbers all over in-between. Stopping at some for extended periods of time, but still, idling I would've thought that the voltage would be steady.
I need to run one more test, and that's too see what the voltage going in is, as well as what's coming out of it.
I have a second multimeter, just not sure it's working. Hopefully I'll be able to make a video tonight showing the 2 different voltage readings. If going in is steady and coming out is all over, that should be the definitive answer that the bap is bad