You guys W/Strokers

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To Fast 64 you said you can get it (stroker crank) for $300 more, to me it would be worth it. But Hey what do I know its only been in my car for 2 years...LOL
ok do I dare ask? Miles

I thought it was a stupid fucking questions, hence the stupid comment.

As far as putting a stroker in the car, I would have done it no matter if I drove the car every day or not. I have 2 friends with stroker motors who drive their cars everyday, one even drove it from El Paso to Ft benning. I drove my stroker from El Paso to Baton Rouge on a break in tune with no issues. Why didn't you just say that, Like I said, I don't want to pull the motor every year, it's not fun in this car...

As far as power gains, who knows? Mine is bored .020 with a 3.75 stroke. The way I see it more cubes, more power. With a P1SC HO kit, stage II heads and cams I made right at 600 to the wheels.

The OP is worried about reliability. My point was, if you can't afford to replace it, don't "fix" whats not broke. Sure I only drive mine 5 miles a week, but I have confidence in my builder (me) and it would do just fine as a DD. So you can take your hemorrhoids (notice the sp, douche bag) and shove it up your ass you puss.
I just don't understand some of you, I think some of it is to add to your post count
Read the above and tell me who looks like a Douche bag, who said I can't afford to fitx it? My shit is broke, so it needs to be fixed, so if I have to fix it, why not add more power? one more thing i'll put my engine building skills against yours anyday, I've build some off the wall shit just for fun, In fact one of my builds ovalized the cylinders in 1,500 miles from side load caused by a short rod ratio, bottom line if it's going to need to be bored and new pistons every year, it's not a build I want to do, If I blow it up that's a different story, so chill out and pull that avatar you have, out of your ass

for those of you that are trying to be helpful thanks
Tiger I read your build thread on both forums
still would be nice to hear someone out there has lots of miles on a stroker before I buy the parts...
 

bullittrevor

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Sub'd. I was interested in one but my car sees it's fair share of driving and once it's built I don't plan on rebuilding it.
 
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tigerhonaker

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ok do I dare ask? Miles


I just don't understand some of you, I think some of it is to add to your post count
Read the above and tell me who looks like a Douche bag, who said I can't afford to fitx it? My shit is broke, so it needs to be fixed, so if I have to fix it, why not add more power? one more thing i'll put my engine building skills against yours anyday, I've build some off the wall shit just for fun, In fact one of my builds ovalized the cylinders in 1,500 miles from side load caused by a short rod ratio, bottom line if it's going to need to be bored and new pistons every year, it's not a build I want to do, If I blow it up that's a different story, so chill out and pull that avatar you have, out of your ass

for those of you that are trying to be helpful thanks
Tiger I read your build thread on both forums
still would be nice to hear someone out there has lots of miles on a stroker before I buy the parts...

Walt,

Tiger I read your build thread on both forums
still would be nice to hear someone out there has lots of miles on a stroker before I buy the parts...
That is going to take some time as you know.
Winter is not a time for driving a lot of miles.
Just have to see how things go this year and driving it a lot.
Here is something though that might be of interest on Longevity of engine.
My 302 is the same shortblock that came in the Saleen Blown Mustangs.
And both of us know Saleen was not installing engines that would not last.
That was a Major consideration in my choice of short blocks.
I have no intention of doing this again.
Spend my money 1 time and then enjoy the results.


tigerhonaker
 
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Chrome61

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A well balanced stroker will last as long as any engine, Remember, the 5.4 is just a stroked 4.6. They did it with using a long bore block but we are not talking a large displacement increase, I've built many strokers, The bores wearing out faster is a bunch of bullshit from people that have never built engines.
 

FlyByNight

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Shit Walt, I thought you where joking around about hurting your engine the other day, sorry to hear this man.
 

Natural1

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A well balanced stroker will last as long as any engine, Remember, the 5.4 is just a stroked 4.6. They did it with using a long bore block but we are not talking a large displacement increase, I've built many strokers, The bores wearing out faster is a bunch of bullshit from people that have never built engines.

It is not bullshit at all. Stroking an engine changes the rod ratio and increases the load the piston exerts on the cylinder (yes, even with offset pins), usually in mid travel. If you've ever built a 347SBF, you know why it doesn't last like a 331. Also, a 5.4L is not a stroked 4.6L. Though, as you said, the 5.4L has a block with a totally different deck height but that's completely different when doing a rod ratio comparison.

That being said, a stock 4.6L/5.4L can see 250K miles of fair driving. A built engine with a power adder (or even without) should be freshened every so often, so what are you guys worried about 100K+ mile longevity for? I'm not saying that you won't get that, because you could but I'd have mine apart every couple of years for inspection and maintenance. Built engines are a big investment and I'd like to protect that investment with preventative maintenance, the alternative is much more expensive. Also, I keep hearing these guys that say, "I want to spin my stroker engine to 7000+RPM.." and I'm like what the eff?! Why on earth would you want to do that? If you wanted to spin the crap out of it, big bore it and ditch the stroke, this will help engine airflow as well. Really, the beauty part of the stroker, is that you can spin it fairly high but it makes great torque and horsepower, down low, so you don't really have to. I personally see the big bore/stroker 327 being my next engine.
 

Chrome61

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I will agree on one thing you said and that is why in the hell stroke a motor to spin the piss out of it? More stroke more piston speed, less stroke you get the idea.
 

Chrome61

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I understand everything you're saying natural but I tend to keep my posts simple, I'm just saying that the difference here between 281 cubes to 302 cubes isn't that big of a jump when we are talking about 8 cylinders.

Now trying to go from a 281 to let's say a 332 by stroking a 4.6 block, everything you said is true and a whole different animal.
 

tigerhonaker

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Tiger, I forgot about the Saleen coming stock with one, darn good point.

Tre06GTP1SC, No big deal, :beerchug2:
Walt,

I should have said the Built Saleen like the Extreme comes with it.
The Saleen I had was a Blower Mustang but not with a built engine.
I look for many years of service from this 302 and now I am not worrying
about a rod or rods sticking out of the side of it.
All of us have different reasons for what we do and spend out dollars on.
I really did it for reliability reasons and for the extra HP & Torque thrown in.

Terry
 

Natural1

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I understand everything you're saying natural but I tend to keep my posts simple, I'm just saying that the difference here between 281 cubes to 302 cubes isn't that big of a jump when we are talking about 8 cylinders.

Now trying to go from a 281 to let's say a 332 by stroking a 4.6 block, everything you said is true and a whole different animal.

It is not the 8 cylinder spread or the 21 extra cubes, there's more to it than that.. Look, when you already have a rod ratio of 1.67 and you are adding .200"-.250" of additional stroke it breaks down like this:

Stock 4.6L(5.933) - 1.67
3.750 4.6L(5.850) - 1.56
3.800 4.6L(5.850) - 1.53
Stock 5.4L(6.658) - 1.59

* I didn't cut and paste the crap above, though the math is easy.. Rod length/stroke = rod ratio

The added stroke will increase piston speed, increase side loading on the cylinders (even more under boost) and create additional piston instability if the rings had to be moved farther upward for pin clearance and the skirt shortened for counterweight clearance. This information can apply to any engine. I'm also, not saying that the strokers are bad or unreliable or anything of the sort. What I am saying, is that the longevity will be slightly decreased because of the rod ratio and decreased even further by the engine's intended use, performance/hard service.

The 5.4L is also available as a stroker with 4.35" and 4.415" strokes. These cranks are from Paschal and are billet. I added the 5.4L, simply for additional information. I like to keep my posts detailed for reference use.
 
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Natural1 You could also add that piston acceleration/deceleration increases as rod length decreases, yet piston speed remains the same,
 

Natural1

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Natural1 You could also add that piston acceleration/deceleration increases as rod length decreases, yet piston speed remains the same,

I think you are actually referring to piston dwell which increases as rod length decreases. Piston speed will stay the same with a common stroke but dwell time will increase. This is why you see long rod engines. A short rod engine has a longer piston dwell time at TDC and therefore, less time overall to fill the cylinder. What you are looking for in any instance, is the best rod ratio you can get while maintaining uniform piston velocity, throughout the cycle.
 

Germeezy3

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A big bore stock stroke engine will make more power and have better longevity than a stock bore long stroke engine. But again as most have mentioned you don't build a motor for its 250k mile longevity, if that was your concern than leave your engine stock.
 

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