Recent content by kerrynzl

Last Saturday Having a play with one of my toys

That means the rear could be steering to the right because the LR wheelbase is shortening under torque Or it is a front end steering issue. [under lift] Get somebody to observe the wheel movement in the wheel arch while you go from forward to reverse. [check both sides] And also check lateral...

Does the rear pull to the left? [Requiring Left steering input to keep it straight] or does the front steer to the left? [Requiring Right steering input to correct] When you lowered the rear did you add LCA relocation kit? [if not this could be the issue] Your car could have rear roll...

here's a few from an informal hangout in New Zealand .The shopping mall manager allows us to hang-out in the carpark 1 day every month [apparently it is good for business] The Mustang below is my brother's He has a business close by, so he drove his race car there

Sounds like he has a "Hackjob adjustable" Panhard. If the car has been lowered , they put a bend in the Panhard to center the rear-end.[shortening it from Eye-to-Eye] If the wheels are centered ,leave it alone [or blow some $$$ on an adjustable Panhard]

When you lower the car [as mine has] it lowers the "instant centre" [IC] This increases squat at the CG and also increases "overturning moment" [ front lift and rear squat due to weight transfer] This is because drive "thrust" is applied at the IC, and resistance is at the CG. creating a...

It also depends on driving style. My FR500C has stock brackets and a lot of Neg camber on the front. [the rear end has a lot of "roll understeer"] This combo [Fr and Rr] makes the car feel twitchy on bumpy straights BUT it is actually quite stable. It self aligns so I can actually take my hands...

To anybody with the Battery Cut-Off/Isolator switch mounting dilemma.[especially with motorsports in a street car] Here is where the factory mounted the Battery Cut-Off/Isolator switch on the FR500C. [on the A-Pillar of the roll cage] so it can be reached by both the driver or the safety crew...

?????? Are you referring to the BMW battery distribution block, And a trunk mounted battery? Are you going to use a Battery isolator cut off switch? or not? If you look at the BMW battery distribution block , diagonally opposite #2 is a 4th post.[below] This is where BMW hook up the Charge Wire...

Should you decide to mount the Battery Isolator switch in the rear close to the battery [which I'm not against this idea, just the FIA requires this at the base of the windshield] You will need to make up a whole new main feed from the starter to the Isolator switch. Another Cheat method is to...

The passenger side fender is already drilled for an aerial from factory. AND it is right next to the existing battery box. Just drill a few holes in the inner fender and use some grommets to run the cable through. That way you can use the Battery Isolator switch as a joiner with the existing...

I'll need to dig into my resources here. I was given a couple of "Stud Blocking Diodes" from an electrical engineer friend that played around with H/D electric motors.[they are not cheap at approx $10-$12 vs about 10c each] It worked really well [especially on my old B/B Corvette race car where...

With the Battery in the trunk you have a live H/D cable from the + post to the starter solenoid [and maybe an isolator switch in between] With a Ford starter solenoid this wire is dead [after the solenoid] except when cranking the engine over. I witnessed a serious accident when a touring car...

We race under FIA sanctioning body [international] I've seen the "clerk of the course" walk along the dummy grid and flip off all the isolator switches [then disqualify the cars with their engines still running] On my last race car [an Aussie Falcon Touring Car] we used a Ford Starter Solenoid...