Dies while driving, slow or freeway speeds

[2005redkarma]

2006 4.0
- shuts off while driving. No bog, just loses power basically.
- throws P0053 HO2S Heater resistance bank 1 sensor 1
-PO401 EGR A Insufficient flow detected
- replace all 4 o2 sensors
Still dies, there are other codes that pop up will update accordingly.
Has anybody had similar problems?
Any tips would be appreciated

 

[86GT351]

Make sure to clear the codes after the O2 sensor install. See what codes possibly come back.

 

[john knox]

check your powers and grounds

 

[2005redkarma]

*UPDATE* there was an “EGR Low circuit voltage” code, I cleaned the old one and then replaced when the code popped back up, no code now.


The car still dies, I lose all power from the engine, everything inside cabin is lit up though.

It seems to maybe be affected by heat, I live in Arizona and it doesn’t shut off while driving in the morning, atleast the past 2 days (my commute is in between 6am and 7am.) and even more so when the a/c is on, even though it doesn’t work.

Cruise control seems to help as well, I don’t know if it’s the consistency of the throttle or if it’s something in the computer. I’m not 100% on this because it has died VERY shortly after turning on cruise control.

There is no sputtering when accelerating or anything like that so I’m *assuming* my Fuel pump and filter are doing fine for right now.

 

[2005redkarma]

I feel as if I should say that when restarting the car I am moving most times. I am having to completely turn the key off, and then it back to run. will not start other wise, not sure if thats an indicator of something just trying to fill in the gaps.

 

[BruceH]

That sounds exactly like vapor lock. By any chance do you have an aftermarket fuel cap?

 

[2005redkarma]

That sounds exactly like vapor lock. By any chance do you have an aftermarket fuel cap?

I’m not sure, it does look stock to me, and says to refer to manual so Id say it’s stock or oem replacement.

The usual wear on it I suppose. Maybe calls for replacement.

Do you know of a possible code for this?

 

[BruceH]

I don't know of a code. It's old school from the time of carburetors on a day with temperature extremes. We would open the gas cap and hear the vacuum being displaced and all was well. I've experienced it once with a FI motor. It's just a thought that might help.

 

[2005redkarma]

I don't know of a code. It's old school from the time of carburetors on a day with temperature extremes. We would open the gas cap and hear the vacuum being displaced and all was well. I've experienced it once with a FI motor. It's just a thought that might help.

Thank you kindly, I’ll see about stopping at an autozone on the way home and grabbing a new gas cap to see if you’re right.

 

[2005redkarma]

*UPDATE AGAIN*

present codes: p0053, p0059, p0401

P0053 and p0059 are o2 codes, replaced all 4 o2 sensors

P0401 is an EGR valve code, replaced EGR
valve

P0455 popped up too as a pending code, EVAP code, replaced gas cap.

I have heard that the combination of the first three could indicate a PCM problem. From a different forum where Ford Technicians are prominent.

Car still dies while driving. There are more codes present with the o2 sensors that start with p2*** but I haven’t seen them in a few days.

DIES COLD OR HOT but only when its HOT OUTSIDE

A/C starts to work when 0 codes present, blows hot with codes. ( no ac related codes if there are any )

There was a point today directly after replacing the gas cap where it drove perfectly fine with 0 codes and my little obd2 reader was flashing GREEN

The scanner has a screen that reads the codes, and three lights below that indicate severity. Green, Yellow, and Red.

There was also a point today about 2 hours after replacing gas cap (I filled the gas tank from quarter to full 30 minutes after replacing cap) where it still died, with 0 codes but flashing YELLOW this time.

I know most people smarter than me would have a better scanner that doesn’t have these lights on theirs because it would just tell them what’s wrong, but does ANYONE know what the different lights mean?

I even unplugged and plugged the reader back in while driving to see if it would update with any pending codes. Nada. But still flashing yellow.

I will continue to update for anyone experiencing similar problems.

 

[Juice]

How do you get it started after it dies? Just wait?

Those codes should not cause the engine to comletly shut off.
Based on the info so far: heat related, cuts off. Best guess so far, loss of spark. Next time it dies, check for spark.

 

[2005redkarma]

1) I turn the key completely off
2) move the gear selector to Neutral ( car is moving 9.9/10 times )
Swap step 1 and 2 sometimes im not a robot
3) i proceed to start car normal way with key
4) i put the gear selector back in Drive

the problem with testing for spark after it dies is that it starts right back up and i can continue driving for what is sometimes more than a few minutes and sometimes under a minute.

there is no hard starting when restarting either, will start the same as if it was cold

Other than the dying there does sound to be a SLIGHT misfire or knock, no codes for this either

 

[MrBhp]

Possibly fuel shutting off. I've read of bad wiring at the FPDM causing this exact thing. A member on here a few years ago had the same problem. Maybe.

 

[2005redkarma]

Just located my FPDM (rear of the car in the trunk next to the spare tire, for anyone reading in the future)

The one in my car looks new, by that I mean it’s shiny, at-least it has a giant yellow check mark from the Quality Control at the factory. That and there’s bare metal scratches indicating a wrench has been here.

I peeled back the curtain a little on the wires and they look good. No corrosion inside or outside plug.

I bought the car less than a month ago, I’m starting to see why they were selling it.

 

[2005redkarma]

Small update:

Firstly, I cleaned directly inside the throttle body, around the butterfly and the flaps themselves, slapped it back together and drove to the gas station for a test drive.

on the way there no stalling issues, different story for the way back. She died about half a mile out of the gas station, note I did get gas earlier today but I did not on this occasion.

When I got home, nonetheless annoyed, I took throttle body and EGR valve completely off, including the second piece of the EGR that goes into the intake manifold a couple inches

Cleaned both throttle body and EGR passages VERY thoroughly with Carb / TB Cleaner.

After that I cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate MAF cleaner.

the air filter is looking a little funky, it’s not ripped or torn but it does have a good bend to it. I don’t know if this could cause any problems, especially when the air box is closed properly. but I for some reason can’t stop throwing useless parts at it so what’s a 20 dollar air filter. Whenever my local parts store opens I’ll be there front and center.

I will update if the drive to the parts store was eventful or if we get lucky since I haven’t driven it since I cleaned it the second time.

 

[wildlifeguy]

I wish I could help you with a definitive answer, but I don't think throwing parts at it is going to help much. Maybe fuel pump intermittent issues? Consider getting a bluetooth OBD dongle and a cheap/free cellphone app to monitor the engine. Not great, but you can see many functions like O2 voltage, fuel trims, fuel pressure, MAF sensor voltage, etc. Maybe something will show itself when the engine stalls. Kind of sounds like something electrical. Has the car always lived in AZ, or could it have come from the north and have corrosion issues? Maybe start checking the engine harness. It's not that scary, I had mine completely disconnected when I pulled the engine a few months ago. What was scary is seeing that the previous owner had taped some wires with barely a twist connecting them. Start with making sure the battery cables are tight. Then follow each wiring harness looking for any indication of wires that may be rubbing against something and wearing insulation. I don't think you need to cut into the loom for now if it looks good. Make sure all grounds look good. Check all connectors. Sometimes connectors are replaced and not spliced really well. Pull the connector and look for any indication of grime or green corrosion and make sure they are snapped on. Take note of any connector that slips off a little too easy. Check the wires several inches up from the connector to look for any splices. I had an issue this spring where the crank position sensor connector was not pushed on tightly and caused it to stall a few times at wide open throttle. Other than grounds, the ones I would think to pay particular attention are the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, MAF sensor, and TPS. I'm not sure if any of this will help, but at least something to work on.

 

[2005redkarma]

I wish I could help you with a definitive answer, but I don't think throwing parts at it is going to help much. Maybe fuel pump intermittent issues? Consider getting a Bluetooth OBD dongle and a cheap/free cellphone app to monitor the engine. Not great, but you can see many functions like O2 voltage, fuel trims, fuel pressure, MAF sensor voltage, etc. Maybe something will show itself when the engine stalls. Kind of sounds like something electrical. Has the car always lived in AZ, or could it have come from the north and have corrosion issues? Maybe start checking the engine harness. It's not that scary, I had mine completely disconnected when I pulled the engine a few months ago. What was scary is seeing that the previous owner had taped some wires with barely a twist connecting them. Start with making sure the battery cables are tight. Then follow each wiring harness looking for any indication of wires that may be rubbing against something and wearing insulation. I don't think you need to cut into the loom for now if it looks good. Make sure all grounds look good. Check all connectors. Sometimes connectors are replaced and not spliced really well. Pull the connector and look for any indication of grime or green corrosion and make sure they are snapped on. Take note of any connector that slips off a little too easy. Check the wires several inches up from the connector to look for any splices. I had an issue this spring where the crank position sensor connector was not pushed on tightly and caused it to stall a few times at wide open throttle. Other than grounds, the ones I would think to pay particular attention are the crank position sensor, cam position sensor, MAF sensor, and TPS. I'm not sure if any of this will help, but at least something to work on.

Yes its a lifetime AZ car.

I'm definitely not scared to rip things apart in the engine bay haha.

Anything and everything is appreciated, when it cools down just a tad ill go out today and check the harness and connectors.

Ill pick up one of those scanners on amazon.

 

[JimC]

Have you checked the smart junction box in the passenger side footwell panel for signs of moisture or corrosion? The cowl drains get plugged, back up water into the cabin right on to the SJB and it will then cause all kinds of issues.

 

[2005redkarma]

Have you checked the smart junction box in the passenger side footwell panel for signs of moisture or corrosion? The cowl drains get plugged, back up water into the cabin right on to the SJB and it will then cause all kinds of issues.

I just took off the cover and noticed the actual fuse box cover wasn’t clipped in and was just sitting behind the first panel so now I know someone’s been here

Doesn’t seem to be any moisture or corrosion around the box or inside where the fuses are, (there is a light rusting on the frame behind the dash though, definitely indicates some sort of moisture.) unless the damage is already done to the computer inside and needs replacing, could be true since the fuse panel cover wasn’t even on.

I want to be somewhat sure of this if I can, is there a way of live monitoring where I can see the what’s going on in there?

 

[2005redkarma]

*another parts update*

-Air filter, one in it looked factory

-Purge Valve

I read on another websites forum that a few users had similar/identical problems and they replaced the Purge Valve. I replaced mine, no dice.

It still dies under the same circumstances

when it’s not AS hot out it seems to prolong it, the difference between 85 degrees outside and 105 degrees seems to be about 15 minutes before first shut off at 85 and at 105 it can die before I make it out of the neighborhood.

The strange thing is when it’s down to the mid 70s outside it doesn’t die at all. Even after 45+ minutes of driving.

Maybe heat is building up some sort of pressure somewhere it isn’t supposed to be?

I’ve replaced the Gas cap, and the Purge valve so it shouldn’t be from the gas tank.