Polish Angel! OH SNAP Shine!!!

UltraKla$$ic · May 4, 2015

rcharles said:
Wow, $55 jump to go to single color.

Crappy wax is that much. This stuff is in a league all its own!!

LS1EATINPONY · May 5, 2015

Im sure its in here but ill be honest.... Im too lazy to read through this at work. Is waxing required/recommended after using this coating? I was telling my friend about this stuff last night and he is very interested in it for his truck.

Boaisy · May 5, 2015

The coating is a sealant. I think when it comes to sealant and waxes it is usually one or the other. At least that is what the stickie guides say.

28ONE · May 5, 2015

LS1EATINPONY said:
Im sure its in here but ill be honest.... Im too lazy to read through this at work. Is waxing required/recommended after using this coating? I was telling my friend about this stuff last night and he is very interested in it for his truck.

No its not required. In fact, adding a wax and/or sealant, a couple things may happen:

1) sealant or wax may not bond - waste of time applying such product

2) you may take away some of the beading and hydrophobic properties of the coating.

3) In my experience, it's just best to not top the coating - except with Viking Spritz - maintenance spray...

Cosmic has glass like properties hence the name Glasscoat Cosmic. I have topped Cosmic with PA Centurion and it does give me more depth on black paint, however, I lose some of the gloss. In addition, anytime we add wax, instant dust magnet. I've gone 2 weeks without washing, there is some dust present but definitely not as much when my GT was not coated. I'm OCD so I wash every week...

Of course, this is my experience with Cosmic. One additional note I'd like to share, coatings is still in it's infancy stage - they're getting better and better everyday - as we all know something better always comes along...

2011/5.0 · May 5, 2015

im interested in the pa system but im old school. I usually clay bar once a year other than that just lots of touchless washes and a couple of waxes with meguiars ultimate liquid wax. I drive a 2011 black 5.0 with 10k on the clock. stored covered in winter and driven in nice weather so the paints in pretty good shape. so I would need to wash with dawn dish soap/clay bar/wash again/apply 2 coats of primer/then up to three coats of cosmic with the first within 9 hrs of the last primer coat then wait 24 hrs
I do have a performance tool 6 inch random orbital with micro fiber pads,would this help applying the primer? thanks

rcharles · May 6, 2015

So if I use the invincible primer and the single color cosmic black glass coat, do I need to use Centurion also. From what I'm reading I should wash, clay, wash, invincible primer, 2 coats of glass coat, and maintain with presto detail. And if I use the invincible primer, do I need the contour pre-wax cleaner. Thanks in advance.

28ONE · May 6, 2015

2011/5.0 said:
im interested in the pa system but im old school. I usually clay bar once a year other than that just lots of touchless washes and a couple of waxes with meguiars ultimate liquid wax. I drive a 2011 black 5.0 with 10k on the clock. stored covered in winter and driven in nice weather so the paints in pretty good shape. so I would need to wash with dawn dish soap/clay bar/wash again/apply 2 coats of primer/then up to three coats of cosmic with the first within 9 hrs of the last primer coat then wait 24 hrs
I do have a performance tool 6 inch random orbital with micro fiber pads,would this help applying the primer? thanks

Primer is actually a last step polish so you would only apply it once. Within 8 hours or after you buff off Primer, you can begin applying Cosmic. However many coats you decide to apply - 2 hr waiting period between coats - keep the car out of the elements for at least 24 hours. Once completely done, do not wash car for a minimum of 7 days. Yes I recommend you apply Primer with a polishing pad by machine...

rcharles said:
So if I use the invincible primer and the single color cosmic black glass coat, do I need to use Centurion also. From what I'm reading I should wash, clay, wash, invincible primer, 2 coats of glass coat, and maintain with presto detail. And if I use the invincible primer, do I need the contour pre-wax cleaner. Thanks in advance.

No you do not need Centurion, it' a wax you can apply over Cosmic if you wish. The maintenance spray is Viking Spritz not Presto - of course once again optional.

I've been apply Viking Spritz 4-6 weeks, depending on the weather...

2011/5.0 · May 6, 2015

So would the meg m205 be necessary before the primer to clean up any fine swirls or just a waste if time if not useing the m105first . I really not sure how you judge if paint correction is needed

28ONE · May 6, 2015

2011/5.0 said:
So would the meg m205 be necessary before the primer to clean up any fine swirls or just a waste if time if not useing the m105first . I really not sure how you judge if paint correction is needed

What color is your paint? Paint correction is removing swirls. M105 is a compound so depending on color you may see some haze. M205 will polish the clear coat to a shine. As a best practice, when performing paint correction, you always want to perform a test spot with the least aggressive approach first. Polishing Pad with a polish, cut pad with a compound.

Read though this:
http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40276

Primer is a polish with abrasives and should remove fine swirls, you won't know until you try a test spot. Ideally, if you need to use M105 and no swirls remain, followup with Primer...

2011/5.0 · May 6, 2015

2011 5.0 black. Will read asap

28ONE · May 6, 2015

2011/5.0 said:
2011 5.0 black. Will read asap

Well if you use M105 you will definitely get some haze...

2011/5.0 · May 7, 2015

got my order in 123.36 with angelmom discount that's on today :party36:

bossmanpena · May 13, 2015

i have a black 2015 gt pp and im about to order this stuff, I have no detailing items whatsoever so do I need to order a polishing pad? or machine? color adaptation single or multi from reading I believe you guys said single and I don't know my paint code. paints in ok shape its been handwashed mostly by its gone thru maybe 3-4 auto washes and there is some minor visual swirling as well as small paint chips from rocks and I scratched it a bit on the passenger side fender with a hose while washing as well as some asshole backed into it minor minor hit.. should I go to a shop and just have them work it all out and do a full paint correction first, thank you in advance for those who chime in to help

Boaisy · May 13, 2015

bossmanpena said:
i have a black 2015 gt pp and im about to order this stuff, I have no detailing items whatsoever so do I need to order a polishing pad? or machine? color adaptation single or multi from reading I believe you guys said single and I don't know my paint code. paints in ok shape its been handwashed mostly by its gone thru maybe 3-4 auto washes and there is some minor visual swirling as well as small paint chips from rocks and I scratched it a bit on the passenger side fender with a hose while washing as well as some asshole backed into it minor minor hit.. should I go to a shop and just have them work it all out and do a full paint correction first, thank you in advance for those who chime in to help

If the 2015 Black is still "UA," then the PA single color code is M6373A. The color code should be on a sticker on the driver door. The sticker would have the vin number and a barcode on it, which will let you know which one has the color codes on it.

As far as products I've ordered (I've just started down this path as well):

Chemical Guys:

Chemical Guys Clay Bar, Gray (Medium) (100 g) AND Chemical Guys Synthetic Lubricant & Detailer (16 oz)

First up on this list is clay bar and clay bar lube. I went with the Medium 100g, and it did just fine. I've only clay bar'd my car once so far, and I also did my dad's bike the same day with a 100g bar. I dropped a few pieces, so ended up using quite a bit of the 100g. Because of this, I bought two more bars since I plan on doing more than just my vehicle. The 16 oz. bottle of lube was almost gone by the end of the day. Because of that, I ended up buying a gallon of the lube with their gallon jug dispenser (one for each gallon jug I have) to refill the lube spray bottle.

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss Concentrated Car Wash (16 oz)

This Citrus car wash I'll be using as a citrus based stripping soap when I'm able to polish the car (finally). Other times I'll use Mr. Pink to wash the car. When I read a few Autogeek forum threads, they said just use more soap then normal, and it will prep just fine for PC. The other reason I bought this particular one is because CG used to have Citrus Wash Red, but their main site doesn't have it. AutoGeek still sells it.

Chemical Guys Mr. Pink Super Suds Shampoo & Superior Surface Cleaning Soap (1 Gal)

This stuff is awesome, especially with the foam cannon. Smells like bubble gum, and leaves a nice shine after it is washed. I'll be using this for regular washing. Even with using the foam cannon, I have yet to need another gallon. I bought the dispensing lid for this as well, and there is less mess/wasted product because of this.

Chemical Guys Extreme Slick Synthetic Detailer (16 oz) OR Chemical Guys Speed Wipe Quick Detailer (16 oz) OR Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 Sealant & Quick Detailer

I use Extreme Clean, for now, as a Quick Detailer. If you watch the videos from AutoGeek, AmmoNYC(DRIVE/CLEAN), and others, whenever a towel is touched to the car without soap or a polish of sorts, they spray QD on it for lubrication to prevent further scratching the paint. This works very well, and I ordered a gallon of Chemical Guys "Speed Wipe" since I could not find a gallon of this stuff. Their site has the Extreme Slick in the Gallon now. Hybrid V7 is another highly praised product as well. Really, you can't go wrong with any of them.

Chemical Guys MTM Next Generation Professional Foam Cannon

OMFG I LOVE THIS TOY. The foam cannon is used for "pre-washing" the car, and for making you giggle like a kid again. It helps get the loose containment's off the car before you go to do the real wash so you have less chance of scratching the paint while washing. I used this at my parents house (on my 3100 GPM Ryobi pressure washer), and they immediately grabbed their cameras to record the foaming this thing does. Look up the videos on this, and you will see how it works. They also have a version that runs on a regular garden hose. Fill up about 1/4 (some say 2 oz.) of the container with your soap (I find anything more, and you'll end up with some left after the car is covered), and the rest with water. Hook it up, and let the fun begin.

Chemical Guys Sasquatch Maximus Microfiber Towel, 16" x 16"

I got 3 of these (the teal-ish color) for QD wiping, and when I get around to buffing off the polish residue for inspection. They are not used for drying, and are mostly to wipe off remaining chemicals.

Chemical Guys Waffle Weave Gray Matter Microfiber Drying Towel, 25" x 36"

The gray towels were recommended by CG for drying the car. What I normally do is try to dry as much as I can with a leaf blower (electric), then I'll take this and dry whatever water is remaining. Sometimes CG will use the "Woolly Mammoth" towel as well in some of their videos.

Chemical Guys Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Blue 24" x 16"

I use this for cleaning/drying the windows.

Chemical Guys Glassworkz Optical Clarity Glass Cleaner (16 oz)

A pretty good window cleaner IMO. Smells like cherries. Definitely need to make sure the window surfaces are cool as this dries up really really fast.

Autoality:

Lambswool Wash Mitt with Thumb

I bought 3 of these. 1 for the top section, 1 for the bottom section, and 1 for the very dirty areas. Splitting up your wash mits into sections helps prevent scratching.

Dextatron Black Nitrile Gloves, Large, 100/box

Get these to help keep your hands, and anything that may be on them, from messing up your surface. If you watch the AmmoNYC and AutoGeek videos, these are the black gloves they are wearing. It doesn't have to be this specific brand, just Nitrile gloves as they have better chemical resistance than laytex, and you don't run the risk of laytex allergies.

Grit Guard Insert - Blue

Get one of these for each bucket you use. I have 2 now since I only have 2 buckets dedicated to washing. These sit at the bottom of your rinse and soap bucket. Rub your washing mits against these when you rinse, and when you gather soap from the bucket. They knock the dirt loose from the mits and trap them on the bottom of the bucket.

You can get Grit Guards from any detailing site. I just so happened to buy mine with the other stuff listed above.

Home Depot:

Home Depot 5-gal. Homer Bucket

I bought two of these, about $3 a piece. Lowe's has some too, but they didn't have a cart like the one listed below. Home Depot does have 3, 6, 10, and 20 pack options if you decide you need more buckets.

Husky 16 in. 2-Shelf Utility Cart, Black - Store

This is something optional. Instead of buying a $100+ cart, I bought this to hold the detailing supplies, and it doesn't wobble like the $50 Harbor Freight model does. See more about it here: http://tinyurl.com/l7p6dfn

Today I will be buying some stuff from Auto Detailing Solutions:

Flex XC 3401
This is considered one of the bad boys for Dual Action polishers. 28ONE can tell you more about it. It is a Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher. This site can explain the general differences between different polishers: https://itsbetterwaxed.com/difference-dual-action-rotary-buffer/

Lake Country Flex XC 3401 VRG Backing Plate System
28ONE recommended this backing plate system to me for the 3401. It'll let you use Lake Country pads from 4" up to whatever can go on 6" back plates from Lake Country.

Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound - FG400
Again, something 28ONE recommended, and he can go into more detail. Most people you will see either using Menzerna or Meguiar's M105 or M101 for a Compound.

Car Pro Eraser Liter
This is used while compounding/polishing to inspect the areas you have worked on. Spray this on, wipe with a microfiber, and inspect the scratches to see if you need to compound more, or if the area is ready for the next step. It also has properties that resist dust, so it will help keep the area clean when you go to apply coating.

Pad Conditioner Brush & Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder

Use the Snappy Cleaning Powder in a bucket, let the dirty pads soak for about 15 mins., and use the Pad Brush (with gloves) to help agitate the pads while they soak. After 15 mins., rinse the pads, and lay them out to dry.

Lake Country Hybrid 5 Inch pads

A lot of members on AutoGeek recommend the Lake Country Hybrid pads if you use a 3401, the other recommended pad is the Lake Country Hydro pads. At the very least, you will want 2 pads for each step (though the more pads you have for each step, the better). Lake Country has a color system based on the aggressiveness of the pads, and what you would normally use them for in the paint correction process. Mike Phillips, on AutoGeek (who is a major 3401 buff), recommends Hybrid Orange (Heavy Cutting), White (Polish), and Black (Finish). Hybrid Orange and Hybrid Blue (which you may also see) are your cutting pads, with Orange being the more aggressive of the two.

Lastly, to clean the Microfiber towels, there are a bunch of chemicals out there that are made for microfibers. However, I went with a simple route that AutoGeek forum members said to go, Tide Free & Gentle OR All Free & Clear. You simply need a detergent that doesn't have any bleach, softeners, dyes, perfumes, etc. This keeps lint from getting onto the Microfibers and doesn't stiffen them up causing scratches. Wash with low heat, dry with low heat in a tumble cycle at the most, and air dry.

I am not saying this is "THE LIST" of products to buy. It is just what I have bought based on the past few months (at least since last fall) of reading/research, and opinions of others who have been doing this a while. Others may have different opinions on what is better, but as Larry, from AmmoNYC says, "Pick whatever works for you. What works for one person, may not be the best product for you." Now this doesn't mean that $5 products from Wal-Mart are up to the task. What he means is, you don't always have to buy the best of the best to accomplish the same task. Those who are really into detailing are the ones who normally buy the high dollar products.

Of course, the polishers and the pads listed above aren't the only routes to go. There are many different polishers and pads, and others with more experience will be able to provide that info.

You do not have to buy the products from the links I have above. If you find a better deal elsewhere, take it.

bossmanpena · May 13, 2015

thank you for your time in putting together your response and the information.

Boaisy · May 13, 2015

De nada.

raredesign · May 26, 2015

Boaisy said:
You do not have to buy the products from the links I have above. If you find a better deal elsewhere, take it.

That is an awesome list! Thank you!

After seeing this thread about Polish Angel, I am going to give it a try myself.
I have always been too nervous of destroying my paint, but I think with the research I will do, and good equipment such as the Flex Dual Action Polisher you posted, I will be able to get as good or better results than someone at a shop who won't be as OCD about my car as me, and save $1000+ in the process.

I do have some paint chips though. Is there a good way to touch those up before proceeding with paint correction and sealant, or are touch-up pens gimmicks?

Also, I see a clay bar in your list. What do you think of the nanoskin option instead?
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-car-care-products.html

28ONE · May 26, 2015

raredesign said:
That is an awesome list! Thank you!

After seeing this thread about Polish Angel, I am going to give it a try myself.
I have always been too nervous of destroying my paint, but I think with the research I will do, and good equipment such as the Flex Dual Action Polisher you posted, I will be able to get as good or better results than someone at a shop who won't be as OCD about my car as me, and save $1000+ in the process.

I do have some paint chips though. Is there a good way to touch those up before proceeding with paint correction and sealant, or are touch-up pens gimmicks?

Also, I see a clay bar in your list. What do you think of the nanoskin option instead?
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-car-care-products.html

I suggest you perform paint correction first then do the touchups. Nanoskin is an easier and faster alternative to claying...

raredesign · May 27, 2015

28ONE said:
I suggest you perform paint correction first then do the touchups. Nanoskin is an easier and faster alternative to claying...

Sounds good. Are color-matched paint pens my best "cheap" option for filling in chips? I'll have to look, but I would imagine you can get clear coat pens as well.

28ONE · May 27, 2015

raredesign said:
Sounds good. Are color-matched paint pens my best "cheap" option for filling in chips? I'll have to look, but I would imagine you can get clear coat pens as well.

I used the ones from the dealership - $10 - they're better than others I have tried such as dr colorchip

Polish Angel! OH SNAP Shine!!!

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