UltraKla$$ic
PERENNIAL WAXXER
Wow, $55 jump to go to single color.
Crappy wax is that much. This stuff is in a league all its own!!
Wow, $55 jump to go to single color.
Im sure its in here but ill be honest.... Im too lazy to read through this at work. Is waxing required/recommended after using this coating? I was telling my friend about this stuff last night and he is very interested in it for his truck.
im interested in the pa system but im old school. I usually clay bar once a year other than that just lots of touchless washes and a couple of waxes with meguiars ultimate liquid wax. I drive a 2011 black 5.0 with 10k on the clock. stored covered in winter and driven in nice weather so the paints in pretty good shape. so I would need to wash with dawn dish soap/clay bar/wash again/apply 2 coats of primer/then up to three coats of cosmic with the first within 9 hrs of the last primer coat then wait 24 hrs
I do have a performance tool 6 inch random orbital with micro fiber pads,would this help applying the primer? thanks
So if I use the invincible primer and the single color cosmic black glass coat, do I need to use Centurion also. From what I'm reading I should wash, clay, wash, invincible primer, 2 coats of glass coat, and maintain with presto detail. And if I use the invincible primer, do I need the contour pre-wax cleaner. Thanks in advance.
So would the meg m205 be necessary before the primer to clean up any fine swirls or just a waste if time if not useing the m105first . I really not sure how you judge if paint correction is needed
2011 5.0 black. Will read asap
i have a black 2015 gt pp and im about to order this stuff, I have no detailing items whatsoever so do I need to order a polishing pad? or machine? color adaptation single or multi from reading I believe you guys said single and I don't know my paint code. paints in ok shape its been handwashed mostly by its gone thru maybe 3-4 auto washes and there is some minor visual swirling as well as small paint chips from rocks and I scratched it a bit on the passenger side fender with a hose while washing as well as some asshole backed into it minor minor hit.. should I go to a shop and just have them work it all out and do a full paint correction first, thank you in advance for those who chime in to help
Chemical Guys Clay Bar, Gray (Medium) (100 g) AND Chemical Guys Synthetic Lubricant & Detailer (16 oz)
First up on this list is clay bar and clay bar lube. I went with the Medium 100g, and it did just fine. I've only clay bar'd my car once so far, and I also did my dad's bike the same day with a 100g bar. I dropped a few pieces, so ended up using quite a bit of the 100g. Because of this, I bought two more bars since I plan on doing more than just my vehicle. The 16 oz. bottle of lube was almost gone by the end of the day. Because of that, I ended up buying a gallon of the lube with their gallon jug dispenser (one for each gallon jug I have) to refill the lube spray bottle.
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss Concentrated Car Wash (16 oz)
This Citrus car wash I'll be using as a citrus based stripping soap when I'm able to polish the car (finally). Other times I'll use Mr. Pink to wash the car. When I read a few Autogeek forum threads, they said just use more soap then normal, and it will prep just fine for PC. The other reason I bought this particular one is because CG used to have Citrus Wash Red, but their main site doesn't have it. AutoGeek still sells it.
Chemical Guys Mr. Pink Super Suds Shampoo & Superior Surface Cleaning Soap (1 Gal)
This stuff is awesome, especially with the foam cannon. Smells like bubble gum, and leaves a nice shine after it is washed. I'll be using this for regular washing. Even with using the foam cannon, I have yet to need another gallon. I bought the dispensing lid for this as well, and there is less mess/wasted product because of this.
Chemical Guys Extreme Slick Synthetic Detailer (16 oz) OR Chemical Guys Speed Wipe Quick Detailer (16 oz) OR Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 Sealant & Quick Detailer
I use Extreme Clean, for now, as a Quick Detailer. If you watch the videos from AutoGeek, AmmoNYC(DRIVE/CLEAN), and others, whenever a towel is touched to the car without soap or a polish of sorts, they spray QD on it for lubrication to prevent further scratching the paint. This works very well, and I ordered a gallon of Chemical Guys "Speed Wipe" since I could not find a gallon of this stuff. Their site has the Extreme Slick in the Gallon now. Hybrid V7 is another highly praised product as well. Really, you can't go wrong with any of them.
Chemical Guys MTM Next Generation Professional Foam Cannon
OMFG I LOVE THIS TOY. The foam cannon is used for "pre-washing" the car, and for making you giggle like a kid again. It helps get the loose containment's off the car before you go to do the real wash so you have less chance of scratching the paint while washing. I used this at my parents house (on my 3100 GPM Ryobi pressure washer), and they immediately grabbed their cameras to record the foaming this thing does. Look up the videos on this, and you will see how it works. They also have a version that runs on a regular garden hose. Fill up about 1/4 (some say 2 oz.) of the container with your soap (I find anything more, and you'll end up with some left after the car is covered), and the rest with water. Hook it up, and let the fun begin.
Chemical Guys Sasquatch Maximus Microfiber Towel, 16" x 16"
I got 3 of these (the teal-ish color) for QD wiping, and when I get around to buffing off the polish residue for inspection. They are not used for drying, and are mostly to wipe off remaining chemicals.
Chemical Guys Waffle Weave Gray Matter Microfiber Drying Towel, 25" x 36"
The gray towels were recommended by CG for drying the car. What I normally do is try to dry as much as I can with a leaf blower (electric), then I'll take this and dry whatever water is remaining. Sometimes CG will use the "Woolly Mammoth" towel as well in some of their videos.
Chemical Guys Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Blue 24" x 16"
I use this for cleaning/drying the windows.
Chemical Guys Glassworkz Optical Clarity Glass Cleaner (16 oz)
A pretty good window cleaner IMO. Smells like cherries. Definitely need to make sure the window surfaces are cool as this dries up really really fast.
Lambswool Wash Mitt with Thumb
I bought 3 of these. 1 for the top section, 1 for the bottom section, and 1 for the very dirty areas. Splitting up your wash mits into sections helps prevent scratching.
Dextatron Black Nitrile Gloves, Large, 100/box
Get these to help keep your hands, and anything that may be on them, from messing up your surface. If you watch the AmmoNYC and AutoGeek videos, these are the black gloves they are wearing. It doesn't have to be this specific brand, just Nitrile gloves as they have better chemical resistance than laytex, and you don't run the risk of laytex allergies.
Grit Guard Insert - Blue
Get one of these for each bucket you use. I have 2 now since I only have 2 buckets dedicated to washing. These sit at the bottom of your rinse and soap bucket. Rub your washing mits against these when you rinse, and when you gather soap from the bucket. They knock the dirt loose from the mits and trap them on the bottom of the bucket.
You can get Grit Guards from any detailing site. I just so happened to buy mine with the other stuff listed above.
Home Depot 5-gal. Homer Bucket
I bought two of these, about $3 a piece. Lowe's has some too, but they didn't have a cart like the one listed below. Home Depot does have 3, 6, 10, and 20 pack options if you decide you need more buckets.
Husky 16 in. 2-Shelf Utility Cart, Black - Store
This is something optional. Instead of buying a $100+ cart, I bought this to hold the detailing supplies, and it doesn't wobble like the $50 Harbor Freight model does. See more about it here: http://tinyurl.com/l7p6dfn
Flex XC 3401
This is considered one of the bad boys for Dual Action polishers. 28ONE can tell you more about it. It is a Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher. This site can explain the general differences between different polishers: https://itsbetterwaxed.com/difference-dual-action-rotary-buffer/
Lake Country Flex XC 3401 VRG Backing Plate System
28ONE recommended this backing plate system to me for the 3401. It'll let you use Lake Country pads from 4" up to whatever can go on 6" back plates from Lake Country.
Menzerna Fast Gloss Compound - FG400
Again, something 28ONE recommended, and he can go into more detail. Most people you will see either using Menzerna or Meguiar's M105 or M101 for a Compound.
Car Pro Eraser Liter
This is used while compounding/polishing to inspect the areas you have worked on. Spray this on, wipe with a microfiber, and inspect the scratches to see if you need to compound more, or if the area is ready for the next step. It also has properties that resist dust, so it will help keep the area clean when you go to apply coating.
Pad Conditioner Brush & Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder
Use the Snappy Cleaning Powder in a bucket, let the dirty pads soak for about 15 mins., and use the Pad Brush (with gloves) to help agitate the pads while they soak. After 15 mins., rinse the pads, and lay them out to dry.
Lake Country Hybrid 5 Inch pads
A lot of members on AutoGeek recommend the Lake Country Hybrid pads if you use a 3401, the other recommended pad is the Lake Country Hydro pads. At the very least, you will want 2 pads for each step (though the more pads you have for each step, the better). Lake Country has a color system based on the aggressiveness of the pads, and what you would normally use them for in the paint correction process. Mike Phillips, on AutoGeek (who is a major 3401 buff), recommends Hybrid Orange (Heavy Cutting), White (Polish), and Black (Finish). Hybrid Orange and Hybrid Blue (which you may also see) are your cutting pads, with Orange being the more aggressive of the two.
You do not have to buy the products from the links I have above. If you find a better deal elsewhere, take it.
That is an awesome list! Thank you!
After seeing this thread about Polish Angel, I am going to give it a try myself.
I have always been too nervous of destroying my paint, but I think with the research I will do, and good equipment such as the Flex Dual Action Polisher you posted, I will be able to get as good or better results than someone at a shop who won't be as OCD about my car as me, and save $1000+ in the process.
I do have some paint chips though. Is there a good way to touch those up before proceeding with paint correction and sealant, or are touch-up pens gimmicks?
Also, I see a clay bar in your list. What do you think of the nanoskin option instead?
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-car-care-products.html
I suggest you perform paint correction first then do the touchups. Nanoskin is an easier and faster alternative to claying...
I used the ones from the dealership - $10 - they're better than others I have tried such as dr colorchipSounds good. Are color-matched paint pens my best "cheap" option for filling in chips? I'll have to look, but I would imagine you can get clear coat pens as well.