2005 Mustang GT, replaced battery, now wrench light and no throttle

I remember the wrench light doing this a while back. It came on and I lost a lot of power, drove it to store and bought throttle cleaner and when I went to turn it in, the light went off and it went away for good.

Fast forward to yesterday, my car battery died so I replaced it today. Put a new one in and started it up and the wrench light came on.

It's like the gas pedal doesn't even work and the rpms sit at 650 steady. But when you start it, it's like there's little gas to it. Normally I start it and the rpms go up to 1k and it's loud, now it's almost quiet.

Any help will be appreciated.

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Died like a shorted cell. Could have wiped out your kam. Try the throttle relearn process.

jhunt47 said:

Died like a shorted cell. Could have wiped out your kam. Try the throttle relearn process.

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Where you turn on key, push down pedal for 3 seconds. Release for 3 seconds. Wait 6 seconds, turn off key and wait 6 seconds and do it over for 4 more times?

I did that
Multiple times.

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Your throttle body motor could have failed or your tps isnt working so the ecu commands the throttle to open to a predictable rpm. Youre going to have to pull codes otherwise its a crap shoot.

I dont know specifically what components failing can force the ecu into limp mode but Id research what they are and narrow it down from there.

Yeah, you'll need to pull the fault codes to find out what's going on but I think a failed TPS will be the prime suspect.
It's usually throttle body-related problems that send the ECU into limp home mode and that's definitely one of them.

Sounds like the TPS Sensor is dead. Time to scan

I'm going to try and get an obd tool to check it. Does anyone know if any parts store rents them? O'Reillys will check it but I can't move the car.

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Call the parts store and see since each store is different on what they have. They may rent them, but it is a good tool to purchase if you have a little to spare. I got the one below, and use it all the time. Haven't had any issue's out of it.


http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-deluxe-scan-tool-60693.html

Talked to my buddy. He has the same year, but a stage 1 roush. He said that his did the same thing and his sister's boyfriend had to reprogram it. It's strange you have to reprogram just for a battery change. My girlfriends 04 gt and my old 99 cobra didn't have no issues changing dead batteries. I'll see what his solution is. But tps is still my concern until I get the code read.

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Fyrestang said:

It's strange you have to reprogram just for a battery change.

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That isn't normal. You shouldn't have to reprogram the ECU for a battery change. That is, unless you mistakenly disconnected the positive terminal first instead of the negative when you removed the old battery.
If you followed the rule "disconnect negative first, reconnect negative second", there shouldn't be any problem with the ECU.

I checked fuses and all seem perfect with fuse tester. I took one out and put it back to test the ones I couldn't reach. Now the car clicks fast 4 times and doesn't start and everything blinks, mileage reads 000000 three times. I disconnected the negative and it's sitting for a while. I'll see what it does when I go back to check on it

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Is the battery fully charged? I'd start there. Everything you describe sounds like a battery that isn't fully charged and/or a faulty alternator.

I changed alternator about 4ish months ago, so that's new. The battery I bought brand new from oreilys it's an 40r.

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Fyrestang said:

I changed alternator about 4ish months ago, so that's new. The battery I bought brand new from oreilys it's an 40r.

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I understand. But do you have a charger or a way to insure the battery is fully charged?. Everyhing that is on this thread points to a low battery and/or bad alternator.

It stopped flashing at me and not even turning. G oing to check battery

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Battery is good puts out 12v. So it goes from no throttle to no turning over. Now. Ford thinks changing battery wiped key memory.

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Fyrestang said:

Battery is good puts out 12v. So it goes from no throttle to no turning over. Now. Ford thinks changing battery wiped key memory.

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Click to expand...

If your battery shows 12.0V your battery is dead.
A charged battery should show 12.6V
12.5V=85%, 12.3V=50%, 12.2V=35%

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Maybe the good people at oreilly can help you figure it out. A good battery puts out 13.2v minimum.

Good luck!

Eh. They just called ford. They said the battery outputs about 12v when not in car, but about a volt or two higher while it is in the car. Ford said they believe it's the security system. Just a big headache it is

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