Clutch problems

goodvybz

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so yesturday my clutch broke, it didnt want to go into gear while at a stop and clutched in, i had to shut down the car to go into gear.

prior to this, about 2months ago i just installed a brand new centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate, machined flywheel and replaced slave (ford) and steel braided clutch line, dot 4 high performance ford brake fluid.

so i took the car apart last night and the pressure plate was cooked, slave looks like it broke and caused failure, and the fly wheel was scored and had hot spots.

just wondering what everyone is running for their clutch or if anyone has had this kind of problem with this clutch? do i stay with the same cutch again or do i get a different type? recomendations?

...and go
 

eighty6gt

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About 20% of slave cylinders from any source are defective and fail. Solution is to buy all new parts and hope for better luck next time.

Also, shimming the slave properly is how you get to 20%. You want one inch of preload. Or 3/4". Who knows.
 
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86GT351

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Have to shim like stated. Alot of times it is caused by not having proper engagement and disengagement. It might feel right but if it is not perfect can cause concerns.
 

goodvybz

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i did shim the slave, i used the shim that was provided by centerforce that came with the clutch.
 

702GT

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When I swapped from OEM to the centerforce DF clutch, I started having all kinds of clutch problems. There was nothing wrong with my OEM from an operations view, but at the time I was launching the car with spray and I could feel the clutch slipping a bunch. It also showed on 60' times. I thought the centerforce was the answer, but after having problems I searched deeper on centerforce clutches in S197s and it seemed almost everyone running one had similar issues. The general consensus was the pressure plate was simply too stiff or heavy for the slave to push. My issues were grinding gears, being locked out of a gear at high rpm, and difficulty getting into 1st/reverse from a stand still. At idle, with the clutch full in, the car would roll forward in 1st on a flat surface. It did the same idling in reverse. I finally read a thread on SVTP where a GT500 owner called Centerforce and asked about the same issues, the tech told him they would send him some shims and he would have to measure it out based on his application (slave/flywheel/transmission model). I called Centerforce and asked if they could send me the same shims, and the tech told me I didn't need shims for my application, and that I must have made an error on installation.

In the end I ordered a Exedy Mach 400 clutch, '13 GT500 master cylinder, OEM slave (came with the Exedy), SS braided clutch line, and a fadanza aluminum flywheel from a '02 GT (used, but replaced the insert). I haven't had a single clutch problem since, and been running this setup for 5 years now (through spray and now supercharged). Never had it slip that I noticed, never been locked out of a gear, never had it grind. The GT500 master cylinder may or may not be too much throw, and may or may not be damaging the pressure plate, but if it is, it's sure taking it's sweet time destroying it. My engagement point went from being at the very bottom of the pedal (or partially engaged all the time) with the centerforce, to being much closer to the top of the pedal, which I like preferably. I can move between gears at 2/3's pedal, which means I don't "have" to take it to the floor for the next gear, but I usually still do during spirited driving. The pedal is nowhere near as stiff as it was with the Centerforce. Obviously I didn't shim this slave cylinder either, if anything it would need to be shaved. But I like it just the way it is. Full engagement happens maybe an inch or so before full release of the pedal. IMO it's perfect.

Take from it what you will, but my advice, ditch the centerforce and order anything else. The exedy 400 is great for stock to at least 500ft/lb rwtq. And the '13 GT500 Mastery Cylinder is another great upgrade for a S197, IMO. It will make sure the clutch fully disengages.

As for the GT500 MC, most of my comments are hear-say and general opinion regarding a previous thread on using the GT500 MC. Some say the GT500 MC over-throws the pressure plate, there-by over-extending the slave and damaging both components. I've had neither one fail since they were installed, at least 5 years and 30-40k/mi. I can't disprove it either, as I nor anyone else has bothered to inspect or take measurements. I can only tell you what the clutch pedal does and how the clutch feels, and pedal distances for engagement/disengagement. I know that it performs perfect, IMO. And cured all my clutch problems since the centerforce. If the slave is riding on the pressure plate, those are some damn good bearings because they've taken a shit-ton of abuse and continue to, over the last 5 years. And I don't hear any clutch rattle or bearings.
 
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Dino Dino Bambino

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I'm running a McLeod RXT dual disc clutch, pressure plate, billet steel flywheel, braided steel hydraulic line, and Ford Racing slave cylinder. Pricey but worth it IMO.
Pedal feel is stock-like and engagement is high as it needs to be, but the bite is more aggressive than stock and doesn't allow much slippage. It thus requires more finesse to avoid stalling or bogging the engine when moving off on a very light throttle. It's a clutch that doesn't like to be babied and I love it.
 

Juice

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I run nothing but centerforce and never had an issue. Never had a stiff pedal with any of them. The light pedal effort is what sold me on CF. Got a dual friction in my fox body (340 hp gt40 crate engine with Vortech S-trim).

I have a little over 6K on this coyote build now. Clutch took longer to break in than 500 miles. No issues with shifting, car does not creep in gear clutch pressed. I left the clutch master cyl alone (v6) and installed a Dorman slave cylinder. Yes, this is a "budget" build. lol Using the stock clutch line. Installed the spacer provided with the Magnum and it works great. Pedal feel is lighter than the stock v6 clutch was. The engagement took a little getting used to, it grabs pretty quick. Clutch starts to engage somewhere past half way. About the only complaint I have is it is very easy to "smell" clutch. Slip it a little at 1500 rpms is all it takes. This is getting better with miles.

Those who are having issues, I would suspect air in the clutch lines or incorrect spacing.
 

goodvybz

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just an update, i went with a bully stage 4 , 6 puck, im very happy with my choice great clutch but on dissasemble i also found my transmission shifter linkage rod to have been broken at the stud, any reccomendations on were i can buy one with out the whole dam shifter !
 

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