Coyote Catastrophic Failure

[skwerl]

Ford has a history of making critical improvements on their engines about 2 years after they are introduced. They did the same with the Triton engines and most every other motor. I'll never buy a new motor design until after the first major revamp. When I buy my next Mustang it certainly won't be an '11-'12 model.

 

[blackgt87]

Not exactly earth shattering progress made yesterday but it was all I could do with the parts that I have right now. Plus everyone likes pictures, these are pretty plain jane though...

Oil pump, windage tray, and pickup tube on

Oil pan on, also got the motor mounts and oil filter adapter on there

Here's the pile of shit I'm going to make my coffee table out of...

Heads are 1/2 done, maybe tomorrow or Tuesday I will have a picture of something that looks like an engine

 

[KungFuHamster]

Yeah its because the '13 block is different. Something about water passages and "more meat in certain places". I don't really know if its better or worse or really no different, but I doubt its worse than the '12.

I'm no engineer, but just based on looks ill take the 11-12 bolt.

Ford has a history of making critical improvements on their engines about 2 years after they are introduced. They did the same with the Triton engines and most every other motor. I'll never buy a new motor design until after the first major revamp. When I buy my next Mustang it certainly won't be an '11-'12 model.

what improvements did Ford make to the triton?

i know when the "PI" motor was introduced in 99 they used the windsor version (truck motor) and then swapped to the romeo version in 01. differences? went from 8 bolt crank to 6 bolt, 13 valve cover bolts to 11 and instead of individual cam caps they had a "bridged" cam cap. but the motors themselves were essentially identical.
not every change is good. back in 92 they went from forged to hypereutectic pistons. i honestly think the 5.0 benefits from the oil squirters better than just a coating on pistons.

 

[blackgt87]

I'm no engineer, but just based on looks ill take the 11-12 bolt.

The bolt maybe, but what about the huge hole in the block for the bolt?

 

[2c5s]

The bolt maybe, but what about the huge hole in the block for the bolt?

I had heard the change was in the head not the block.

 

[blackgt87]

I had heard the change was in the head not the block.

Thats not what 19COBRA93 told me, he works at a ford dealer and has done a lot of the investigating into the differences between '12's and '13's. I'm pretty sure he said that the head was unchanged, just the block was different. I think the reason for the bolt change had something to do with water passages, I know that in one way or another #8 failures are attributed to heat. I'm pretty sure the new pistons have some kinda relief in them to let out gases or some shit and keep the piston itself cooler in lieu of the squirters.

At the low boost levels it takes coyotes to make gobs of power I'd rather have better cooling and head bolts that are still adequate without being the size of a spud bar. (if that is in fact the case, of course that's what I'm hoping for since I have a '13 block now lol)

 

[SonicGT]

Nobody is running a head cooling mod in these yet?

 

[blackgt87]

Picked up my heads from Powerhouse a couple days ago. Here is what the chamber looks like now

And for those curious about running the boss exhaust cams in GT heads. The spot on the head where the valve springs sits does not need machined down. There is a notch in the head under the follower that allows the roller to not scrub on the head when the valve is opened all the way. That notch needs to be made bigger due to the increased lift. It really doesn't look like that much needs taken away, just have to triple check that you have the required clearance. I am glad I had a shop do this, but it looks like something you can do at home.

Here are a couple pics to show the modification to the head

I was told that later '12 heads and '13 heads already have a notch big enough and do not require modification. Obviously checking for clearance would be mandatory.

I didn't get super far, but I got some shit done. Heads are torqued down, and I spent some time figuring out which cam goes where (the boss exhaust cams are not marked L and R just part numbers which are difficult to google) and taking the VCT stuff off the ends of the cams (something I did't do when I disassembled the motor).

The shop manual I got mentions something about a VCT oil filter that goes in the end of the cam before the phaser goes on, but mine didn't have any when I took it apart. Anybody know anything about this? It might be an '11 only thing they did away with or something, since mine didn't have them I will probably just move on without them.

More pics to come, I hope to get a lot done today.

oops forgot the last pic that shows where I'm at

 

[2c5s]

Nice progress. For the head bolts, is the change in the block or the head?

 

[blackgt87]

Nice progress. For the head bolts, is the change in the block or the head?

Thanks!

It's a change in the block.

 

[2c5s]

Thanks!

It's a change in the block.

Good to know.

 

[fhlh]

you need to sand, prime and paint that door

 

[19COBRA93]

And replace that oil filter...

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

I can see the "scrub" marks on the head where they were "clearanced" for the valve spring but I don't see how those marks actually did anything. ???;;

 

[filtercharger]

Good job bro! progress can take time, but I think you're moving quickly for sure!

 

[ArtQ]

I can see the "scrub" marks on the head where they were "clearanced" for the valve spring but I don't see how those marks actually did anything. ???;;

Yes, for sure!!! Did they take those heads and have them cryod, then bring them down to near the earth's core where the effect of the magnetic poles have the least effect on the metal, then machine them to within a tolerance of .00000000000000000001 for proper clearance, then to be sure everything was right, did they bring the lash adjuster, follower, valve and spring up to 183.4567 degrees as well as the head while being torqued to the proper amount to the block which should also be at 183.4567 degrees as well as being placed in a cradle that simulates the exact load as if it's setting on the motor mounts in the car? 'Cause Dude...if it wasn't...I think you may just be looking at a second catastrophic failure..

 

[blackgt87]

you need to sand, prime and paint that door

One project at a time! lol it does look bad

And replace that oil filter...

Yeah that oil filter wasn't packaged very well when it shipped with my shortblock and it got all dented up lol. I actually put a new on on today I just screwed that one on so there was one less place for crap to get inside the motor.

I can see the "scrub" marks on the head where they were "clearanced" for the valve spring but I don't see how those marks actually did anything. ???;;

The round part that is machined really nice is where the follower sits. The part down a little from that where it looks like someone took a Dremel to it is the spot on the head the follower would hit had it not been ground off a little bit. Like I said its not a huge amount that needs taken off, but the increased lift from the boss exhaust cams causes the follower to be pushed lower toward the head and if you don't grind a little off the roller will hit the head. I thought it was pretty obvious in the pictures but I don't always do a good job of explaining things lol.

Good job bro! progress can take time, but I think you're moving quickly for sure!

Thanks dude.

Yes, for sure!!! Did they take those heads and have them cryod, then bring them down to near the earth's core where the effect of the magnetic poles have the least effect on the metal, then machine them to within a tolerance of .00000000000000000001 for proper clearance, then to be sure everything was right, did they bring the lash adjuster, follower, valve and spring up to 183.4567 degrees as well as the head while being torqued to the proper amount to the block which should also be at 183.4567 degrees as well as being placed in a cradle that simulates the exact load as if it's setting on the motor mounts in the car? 'Cause Dude...if it wasn't...I think you may just be looking at a second catastrophic failure..

Umm I think this is a joke but I'm a little lost lol. Powerhouse had the exhaust cams there when he fixed the head. Mike put the exhaust cams in the head and torqued the caps down then rotated the camshaft around to open the exhaust valves all the way, that's how he checked to make sure that the roller on the follower didn't hit/rub/scrub on the head. I don't know how much clearance is required, it could be "as long as it doesn't touch" or maybe there's some minimum distance to allow for expansion and shit. That's one of the reasons I am glad I had someone who knows what they are doing take care of that part, Mike@powerhouse did consult Mike@L&M on this...so I feel like I can trust his work.

 

[blackgt87]

Here is the update from today

I got all 4 cams and phasers and both timing chains and everything installed. It really wasn't bad since I have the Ford workshop manual to follow. I got a little confused putting the phasers on the cams but the picture in the book that shows you how to line up the secondary chain has the intake and exhaust phasers on opposite sides than they go on the engine, so you have to turn it around when you pick it up off the bench and walk over to the head. One I realized that it all went together pretty easy. Certainly way different than putting a pushrod motor together lol.

Heres the tensioner compressed and ready to bolt on

Another pic after I got the chains and tensioners and shit on

The next step is putting the timing cover back on. This requires a little bit of silicone in a few places. Here is my cover all cleaned up with new gaskets ready to go on.

Tomorrow I will put the timing cover and then valve covers and the rest of the front accessories like the alternator and pulleys and AC and shit. I should find something better than the crank bolt to install the harmonic balancer. It doesn't look like a lot but getting those cams/chains/tensioners/guides all installed was a big deal. I triple checked everything and kept everything really clean and oiled and followed the workshop manual to the letter. Torquing all those bolts and everything took a lot of time, but I feel like I got it dead nuts the way the book says. To me that is the hardest part. Now I just have to bolt all the normal shit back on and put it back in the car...

 

[Seer]

Lemme know if you need help droppin it in bill

 

[wbt]

I can see the "scrub" marks on the head where they were "clearanced" for the valve spring but I don't see how those marks actually did anything. ???;;

I am not real excited about the "machine" work in the pics either.