1st time at the track, plans to go again

[corey5988]

I finally got the car out to Beech Bend last night. Was kind of dissappointed in my times, but I must say I'm hooked. Absolutely loved it.

My first run I just wanted to get a feel for it. I took it pretty easy and pretty sure I let out a bit early.

1st run
R/T - .602
60' - 2.441
1/8 - 9.742
1/4 - 15.124 (77.14mph)

2nd run
R/T - .410
60' - 2.265
1/8 - 9.529
1/4 - 14.548 (98.91mph)

3rd run
R/T - .651
60' - 2.096
1/8 - 9.167
1/4 - 14.135 (98.18mph)

4th run
R/T - .025 (was really happy with that R/T)
60' - 2.547
1/8 - 9.570
1/4 - 14.642 (94.56mph)

5th run
R/T - .050
60' - 2.240
1/8 - 9.374
1/4 - 14.533 (95.39mph)

On the 1st two runs I lined up with a 5.0 that clocked 16.073 and 14.952 respectively.

Like said I am hooked. I need to address a few things before going back though (which is why I posted here instead of the drag section). First of all (and what I think killed me most) is my 1-2 shift. I'm getting a bind and missing the shift, if I carry it over 4200rpm. From my research it looks like torque deflection causing this. I was shifting right at 4000 from 1st and around 6100 for all other gears. I don't want to run solid motor mounts since it still is a street car. I think I'm going to fab up a K-member brace and some torque limiters for the tranny (I'm pretty good at fabricating things and have a background in mechanical design). I'd also like to ditch the Roush shifter and get an MGW, but I'm going to try the brace and limiters first.

I'm sure I need to address suspension & wheels/tires too, though I think they did pretty well considering (Tein S tech coils on stock dampners and Sumitomo HTR-Z3 tires aired to 18psi). I stuck pretty good launching at 3k RPM. I only spun bad when I started experimenting and launched at around 4k. Honestly I don't think these are a limiting factor yet.

 

[SNKPWR]

I would personally do the shifter first. Switching from the hurst billet shifter that mine came with to an MGW completely eliminated the 1-2 lockout I was seeing above 5k, and almost no notchiness now as well

 

[johnnyv8]

I had a b&m shifter, as well as a CHE k member brace with tq limiters. Cured all my shifting issues! I'm not sure how familiar you are with drag racing, however, on street tires, you want to aim for a 2.00 or below for your 60ft. The best I ever got on a street tire was 1.9x. That's pretty much the most important part. As you can see on your time sleeps, your best time was when your 60ft was a 2.06.

a great R/T is great, and is super important in bracket racing, however, for test and tune; it doesn't effect your time at all (they don't start the clock till you leave).

What is done to your car (modd wise)? You should be shifting at 6100 in 1st as well. If you have a tune, you should be shifting at 6500rpm. My best time stock was 13.32 (NJ Fall weather ftw) and CAI/Tune was a 13.10 (the car was cable of 12's).

 

[Sharad]

That 2.0 60-foot was pretty good for a first timer, if you were on regular street tires.

You'll definitely get faster with more practice.

 

[corey5988]

I had a b&m shifter, as well as a CHE k member brace with tq limiters. Cured all my shifting issues! I'm not sure how familiar you are with drag racing, however, on street tires, you want to aim for a 2.00 or below for your 60ft. The best I ever got on a street tire was 1.9x. That's pretty much the most important part. As you can see on your time sleeps, your best time was when your 60ft was a 2.06.

a great R/T is great, and is super important in bracket racing, however, for test and tune; it doesn't effect your time at all (they don't start the clock till you leave).

What is done to your car (modd wise)? You should be shifting at 6100 in 1st as well. If you have a tune, you should be shifting at 6500rpm. My best time stock was 13.32 (NJ Fall weather ftw) and CAI/Tune was a 13.10 (the car was cable of 12's).

I'm sure that's why my times weren't what I'd hoped for. I tried to carry it out past 4200 once and still got the grinding issue. I'm going to do the limiters and hit the track on the 30th and see what can be done. I'm tuned, but not sure I'm comfortable carrying it out to 6500 with stock valvetrain. I almost got into the 13s with the shifter issue, so I'm hoping my second time out and fixing that, that I can be low 13s high 12s.

I have the stock Roush M90 blower, JBA long tubes, OR-H, and Bama tune (yeah, yeah, I plan on getting the VMP500 kit with Justin's tune). I was very dissappointed and had hoped to be deep into the 13s with those mods even with the shifting issue. That was with Sumitomo HTR-Z3 tires aired to 18psi (275/40-19). I have my stock Roush wheels that I'd like to throw some drag radials on, but want to get more experience in before dumping money into it.

 

[johnnyv8]

I'm sure that's why my times weren't what I'd hoped for. I tried to carry it out past 4200 once and still got the grinding issue. I'm going to do the limiters and hit the track on the 30th and see what can be done. I'm tuned, but not sure I'm comfortable carrying it out to 6500 with stock valvetrain. I almost got into the 13s with the shifter issue, so I'm hoping my second time out and fixing that, that I can be low 13s high 12s.

I have the stock Roush M90 blower, JBA long tubes, OR-H, and Bama tune (yeah, yeah, I plan on getting the VMP500 kit with Justin's tune). I was very dissappointed and had hoped to be deep into the 13s with those mods even with the shifting issue. That was with Sumitomo HTR-Z3 tires aired to 18psi (275/40-19). I have my stock Roush wheels that I'd like to throw some drag radials on, but want to get more experience in before dumping money into it.

Most guys with a tune, rev out to 6500 on the track. However, I did not know you have a blower. I as well shift around 6 with my turbo. I did shift at 6500 with just my bolts ons. You most be in some crappy DA levels to be running 14's with a m90.

Shifting early (1st gear) is hurting you more if not just as much as your 60ft. I'm curious to see what you run with a solid 2.00 60ft and taking 1st gear all the way up to 6. You can also try "granny" shifting 1st at 6k if it's still grinding. Better then shifting at 4k.

The best results I got with street tires was revving up between 3-3500 rpm and slipping the clutch.

 

[psfracer]

1) fix your shifting issue
2) get a DR for track use

And with that said, I find your lack of mph concerning. Regardless of the ET, mph indicates hp, and that does not look good for a car with a blower. What am I missing?

A good way to spot a tune issue is look at your 1/8th mph and 1/4 mph, and look at the difference. Then go to the ET spreadsheet and compare to others running the same 1/8th mile mph. Pretty easy to spot if the car is pulling timing if your mph difference is only (for example) 20 mph when other cars in your et range have a 25 mph difference.

 

[corey5988]

Most guys with a tune, rev out to 6500 on the track. However, I did not know you have a blower. I as well shift around 6 with my turbo. I did shift at 6500 with just my bolts ons. You most be in some crappy DA levels to be running 14's with a m90.

Shifting early (1st gear) is hurting you more if not just as much as your 60ft. I'm curious to see what you run with a solid 2.00 60ft and taking 1st gear all the way up to 6. You can also try "granny" shifting 1st at 6k if it's still grinding. Better then shifting at 4k.

The best results I got with street tires was revving up between 3-3500 rpm and slipping the clutch.

I'm going to fix the deflection issue this week before I make it to the track again. I've tried both ways of shifting 1-2 and still got the same issue. I was having good luck with a 3k launch.

 

[corey5988]

1) fix your shifting issue
2) get a DR for track use

And with that said, I find your lack of mph concerning. Regardless of the ET, mph indicates hp, and that does not look good for a car with a blower. What am I missing?

A good way to spot a tune issue is look at your 1/8th mph and 1/4 mph, and look at the difference. Then go to the ET spreadsheet and compare to others running the same 1/8th mile mph. Pretty easy to spot if the car is pulling timing if your mph difference is only (for example) 20 mph when other cars in your et range have a 25 mph difference.

I think the next time I will bring my laptop and make some datalogs. I actually have all the datalogs saved from tuning as well.

 

[corey5988]

Here's a scan of the slips.

I accidentally put them backwards. Obviously I let out on the 1st pass. On the 4th pass was when I tried to carry out 1st and got the 1-2 bind, and also subsequently missed 3rd.

 

[Renesis07]

Trapping 98mph with a blower? I agree with psfracer, something seems off with that. Missing shifts or not that mph is concerning.

 

[s8v4o]

Trapping 98mph with a blower? I agree with psfracer, something seems off with that. Missing shifts or not that mph is concerning.

Considering my car completely bone stock with 500 miles on it trapped 101.56 MPH I would have to agree.

 

[corey5988]

Way to make a guy feel good, lol. I'm hoping it's a tune issue. I'm not extremely knowledgeable on tuning. I'm more of a mechanical moving part kind of guy. That said in my datalogs this is the list I was told to log.

ENVIRONMENT
 COOLANT TEMP
FUEL
 Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
 Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2
 Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
 Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2
MAF
 LOAD
 MAF AD COUNTS
MISCELLANEOUS
 BATTERY VOLTAGE
 RPM
 THROTTLE POSITION ABSOLUTE
 VEHICLE SPEED
SPARK
 SPARK
 SPARK SOURCE

Will the "spark" and "spark source" indicate timing advance/retard? And also wouldn't it be good to log knock on this as well? If not what PIDs should I log to troubleshoot this? Again thanks for the help guys.

Also as mentioned I've saved all my logs, so I can look back at them and see what's up if I know what to look for.

 

[corey5988]

Also I'm getting a P0113 code. It's Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input. I've swapped swapped out the MAF with a good one I had laying around, reloaded the tune, and shortly got the code again. I'm going to run through the wiring there, to make sure I haven't damaged a wire. Do you think this may be an issue? I'd like to relocate the IAT to after the blower for a more accurate reading, anyway.

 

[s8v4o]

For starters do you have a wideband O2?

 

[corey5988]

Yup. Innovate MTX-L. Runs 14.7-8ish cruising and 11.6ish WOT. About to head to work, so if you guys need any additional info I'll be on here to check on the thread around 9:30.

 

[808muscle]

Yeah your MPH is way off. I had 99 mph totally stock on my 06GT. Now with the m90 etc I hit 113. Is there any chance your not hitting full throttle? Is your floor mat blocking the gas pedal from going down all the way? Something is way off. Your wideband is fine at WOT.

 

[rojizostang]

ooops nevermind

 

[Sactown]

Try the replacing the shifter first, I would recommend either a MGW or Pro5.0. I had a similar issue with 1-2 shifting is issue didn't get completely fixed until I replaced the shifter, installed both the solid motor mounts and the k-member brace w/ torque limiters. Just curious are you still running the stock clutch? What are you doing to cool the inlet temps?

 

[corey5988]

Stock clutch. I don't have anything to help with cooling aside from the stock Roush heat exchanger and aftercooler. The way things are setup I had usually 30 minutes between runs. I wouldn't start the car until it was my turn to stage and as soon as I lined back up in prestaging lanes I'd shut it back off. Was trying my best to prevent heatsoak.