Shit has hit the fan and I need this thing gone ASAP.
2005 Mustang GT ~27000 miles (purchased with 4600 miles on it in Sep 2006)
Sonic Blue, AT, standard features
Complete Mod List
Nitrous:
ZEX NMU
2 bottles & brackets
2 NOS Y-fittings
Extra –AN hoses of varying lengths (allows for install flexibility)
AutoMeter Cobalt Nitrous gauge (never been installed)
ZEX Purge kit
ZEX window switch
2 blowdown tubes
*None of this has been used. Some has been installed, but not used by me.
Engine:
SCT X-Cal II
Steeda UDP's
Steeda Motor Mounts
Autolite HTO Spark Plugs
Accel COP's
Induction:
C&L Racer CAI
GT-500 TB (does not need a spacer; will fit directly to intake plenum)
Steeda CMDP's
Exhaust:
Dynatech Long Tube Headers w/hi-flow cats (1 5/8 primaries)
Custom H-pipe
Pypes Violators
*headers also come with adapters for o/r pipes; may need some minor fab work.
*header flange was cut during install, but doesn’t affect performance or installation. Can be fixed with minor welding.
Magnaflow #35121 Stainless tips. Brand new, still in box. Need to be welded in.
Suspension:
BMR Rear Swaybar
CHE Adjustable Panhard Bar
CHE Adjustable UCA
CHE LCA's
CHE LCA Relocation Brackets
CHE Panhard Bar Brace
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
StangSuspension Heavy Duty Strut Mounts
Steeda Front Swaybar Adjustable Endlinks
Tokico D-Spec Shocks/Struts (less than 500 miles on them; 4 track passes)
Transmission/Drivetrain/Brakes:
CHE Axle Brace
CHE Driveshaft Safety Loop
FRPP 4.10's
LPW Differential Cover
PA Deep Transmission Pan w/dipstick
Powerhouse Driveshaft
SLP Line Lock Kit
Built transmission from Larry's Transmissions (purchased from psfracer)
Chassis:
Steeda Frame Rail Torque Box Brace
Steeda G-Trac Brace
Wheels/Tires:
20" Toxic Defiant Chrome Rims (offset specifically designed for Mustang)
Nitto NT555's (255/35/20 F, 275/35/20 R)
Cosmetic:
Aluminum Door Sill plates
AutoMeter Cobalt Transmission Temp Gauge
AutoMeter Cobalt Oil Temp Gauge
AutoMeter Cobalt Oil Pressure Gauge
Black carpet (stock was gray)
Black GT Floormats
BlueOval Engine dress-up kit
California Special Front Fascia
Cervini Upper Billet Grille w/Pony
Clear turn signal & rear side lenses
Custom gauge plate
Saleen Dual Gauge pod
GT Button to replace cigarette lighter
Midwest Auto Gear painted plenum cover
Painted Brake Calipers
Painted mirrors
Painted Racing Stripes
Painted Valve Covers
PIAA 510XT Foglights
Stubby Antenna
Audio:
Amplified Winshield Antenna
Dynamat Extreme in trunk and doors
Pioneer DEH-P6500 Head Unit
iPod AUX adapter
Pioneer TS-A6871R 6x8 3-Way speakers (F&R stage)
Rockford Fosgate P400.4 400W 4 Channel Amp
Extra stuff available (I’d seriously prefer you take this stuff if you take the car):
Stock 5R55S transmission with 20K miles (I bought this when I blew my old tranny, but never installed it).
Stock exhaust manifolds & H pipe with fully functional cats
Stock driveshaft
Steeda UCA Bushing (the one that goes on the axle housing). New never even opened.
Stock plugs with about 25K miles and a set of practically new Champion plugs (they might have 500 miles on them).
Extra suspension bolts; brand new
Rear 02 sensors. I am missing the bung end of the driver’s side front because I couldn’t get it out of the manifold. I still have the connector though.
New take off black leather seats. The factory color was gray. I have installed the back seats, but I haven’t gotten around to doing the fronts. You get both.
The factory carpet was gray as well. Threw that out and got an OEM black carpet. Same for the rear package tray too.
Midwest Auto Gear Sonic Blue Radiator Cover w/painted extensions. I’ve had these for awhile, but haven’t installed them yet.
Custom hoodliner. I bought this off a member from another forum after I got oil all over my old one. I just never installed it. Made of heavy-duty aircraft firewall material. Comes complete with instructions
Stock gears
Stock pullies
BRAND NEW factory trunk lid. No paint or primer, but no holes either!
Car info:
The Nittos look to be in pretty good condition from what I can tell, but I’m no tire expert. The rears have had 5 passes on a 1/8 mile track and the fronts have had 9. I’ve never had an alignment as I can’t find a competent shop that can align a 20” rim. The rears also have two burnouts (to test the line locks).
The driveshaft has a rub mark on it from the e-brake cable. The cable slipped out from under the gas tank during the UCA install and I didn’t see it until much later. The marks are superficial and the brake is fully functional. There is some tape around it to protect it as well.
Nothing has been welded in (i.e., relocation brackets, axle brace, driveshaft loop, etc.).
The Dynatech cats will fail if you run boost through them, period. The adapters are designed to provide for an off-road system with no cats, or you could just drill through the existing ones.
It needs a new tune to compensate for the GT500 TB & nitrous. I haven’t had the money to get one, but it still runs fine. I drive it everyday to work.
Oil is changed regularly (3-4K miles). I’ve tried Mobil 1, Penzoil, Royal Purple. It all acts the same to me, but I’m no oil expert either. There is a sandwich adapter on the filter housing for the gauges; you’ll need a shorter filter. Can easily get those at AutoZone, Kragen, etc. I’ll also give you the socket for the adapter incase it ever loosens up on you. You don’t want that to happen, trust me!!!
There are fuse taps in the fuse box, although there is nothing drawing power from it. When I initially installed the gauges, I used a fuse block and its supplied taps. When I wanted to remove them to use a more convenient source, I realized that the taps “stretch” the contacts and the fuses won’t sit in the holder properly, causing components of the car to not work properly, or at all. Fuses not seating properly is a known issue with some of these cars, so this didn’t exactly make it better. But it’s functional with no CEL’s.
The stripes aren’t straight. They were on the car when I bought them so don’t shoot me. The previous owner had good intentions, but when you pay $300 for stripes, you get a $300 stripe job. The good news is that no one will know that the stripes aren’t straight unless you tell them. It took me nearly a year to notice it. I’ve had people look at them and the said they couldn’t tell. You can though. I was considering new stripes, but since I’m selling the car, that idea is out the window.
There are a couple of scratches, but there’s a nice one on one of the stripes. I had the car on stands with the hood open and closed the garage door, forgetting about the hood. The scratch should be easily repairable though with some touch-up paint and/or minor body work.
The Dynamat looks like shit. I didn’t have $600 to get it installed and opted to do it myself. It does its job and no one will ever see it, but it looks like shit to me. I’m a bit anal about things, so stuff like that really bothers me.
I didn’t like the purple of the ZEX kit, so I opted to paint it blue. I should have read up on painting things that have been anodized because it looks like shit. Kit still works, just needs to be cleaned up if you plan on winning any trophies based on its looks.
I’ve got diagrams of how everything is wired, so there wouldn’t be any confusion when it came time to upgrade or change stuff.
The amp will not come hooked up. Everything was removed for a major overhaul, but since this is a sudden change in plans, everything is being left as-is. The door subs aren’t hooked up to work with the aftermarket HU, but I do have the adapter that is needed to make them work.
I don’t smoke. Not that there is an ashtray in here anyway, but I don’t smoke and smokers don’t ride with me.
I’ve got all of the paperwork that was given to me when I bought it, plus receipts of installs by shops and just about every receipt of the stuff I’ve bought.
I could have parted it out, but honestly, I don’t feel like it and like I said, the shit has hit the fan and I need cash ASAP. I’ve got a shitload of wrenchtime on this thing and I certainly wouldn’t sell it like this if it wasn’t vital to me.
$16000/OBO takes it home. Help me help you help me on this.
More pics to come; the camera is charging up right now.
2005 Mustang GT ~27000 miles (purchased with 4600 miles on it in Sep 2006)
Sonic Blue, AT, standard features
Complete Mod List
Nitrous:
ZEX NMU
2 bottles & brackets
2 NOS Y-fittings
Extra –AN hoses of varying lengths (allows for install flexibility)
AutoMeter Cobalt Nitrous gauge (never been installed)
ZEX Purge kit
ZEX window switch
2 blowdown tubes
*None of this has been used. Some has been installed, but not used by me.
Engine:
SCT X-Cal II
Steeda UDP's
Steeda Motor Mounts
Autolite HTO Spark Plugs
Accel COP's
Induction:
C&L Racer CAI
GT-500 TB (does not need a spacer; will fit directly to intake plenum)
Steeda CMDP's
Exhaust:
Dynatech Long Tube Headers w/hi-flow cats (1 5/8 primaries)
Custom H-pipe
Pypes Violators
*headers also come with adapters for o/r pipes; may need some minor fab work.
*header flange was cut during install, but doesn’t affect performance or installation. Can be fixed with minor welding.
Magnaflow #35121 Stainless tips. Brand new, still in box. Need to be welded in.
Suspension:
BMR Rear Swaybar
CHE Adjustable Panhard Bar
CHE Adjustable UCA
CHE LCA's
CHE LCA Relocation Brackets
CHE Panhard Bar Brace
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
StangSuspension Heavy Duty Strut Mounts
Steeda Front Swaybar Adjustable Endlinks
Tokico D-Spec Shocks/Struts (less than 500 miles on them; 4 track passes)
Transmission/Drivetrain/Brakes:
CHE Axle Brace
CHE Driveshaft Safety Loop
FRPP 4.10's
LPW Differential Cover
PA Deep Transmission Pan w/dipstick
Powerhouse Driveshaft
SLP Line Lock Kit
Built transmission from Larry's Transmissions (purchased from psfracer)
Chassis:
Steeda Frame Rail Torque Box Brace
Steeda G-Trac Brace
Wheels/Tires:
20" Toxic Defiant Chrome Rims (offset specifically designed for Mustang)
Nitto NT555's (255/35/20 F, 275/35/20 R)
Cosmetic:
Aluminum Door Sill plates
AutoMeter Cobalt Transmission Temp Gauge
AutoMeter Cobalt Oil Temp Gauge
AutoMeter Cobalt Oil Pressure Gauge
Black carpet (stock was gray)
Black GT Floormats
BlueOval Engine dress-up kit
California Special Front Fascia
Cervini Upper Billet Grille w/Pony
Clear turn signal & rear side lenses
Custom gauge plate
Saleen Dual Gauge pod
GT Button to replace cigarette lighter
Midwest Auto Gear painted plenum cover
Painted Brake Calipers
Painted mirrors
Painted Racing Stripes
Painted Valve Covers
PIAA 510XT Foglights
Stubby Antenna
Audio:
Amplified Winshield Antenna
Dynamat Extreme in trunk and doors
Pioneer DEH-P6500 Head Unit
iPod AUX adapter
Pioneer TS-A6871R 6x8 3-Way speakers (F&R stage)
Rockford Fosgate P400.4 400W 4 Channel Amp
Extra stuff available (I’d seriously prefer you take this stuff if you take the car):
Stock 5R55S transmission with 20K miles (I bought this when I blew my old tranny, but never installed it).
Stock exhaust manifolds & H pipe with fully functional cats
Stock driveshaft
Steeda UCA Bushing (the one that goes on the axle housing). New never even opened.
Stock plugs with about 25K miles and a set of practically new Champion plugs (they might have 500 miles on them).
Extra suspension bolts; brand new
Rear 02 sensors. I am missing the bung end of the driver’s side front because I couldn’t get it out of the manifold. I still have the connector though.
New take off black leather seats. The factory color was gray. I have installed the back seats, but I haven’t gotten around to doing the fronts. You get both.
The factory carpet was gray as well. Threw that out and got an OEM black carpet. Same for the rear package tray too.
Midwest Auto Gear Sonic Blue Radiator Cover w/painted extensions. I’ve had these for awhile, but haven’t installed them yet.
Custom hoodliner. I bought this off a member from another forum after I got oil all over my old one. I just never installed it. Made of heavy-duty aircraft firewall material. Comes complete with instructions
Stock gears
Stock pullies
BRAND NEW factory trunk lid. No paint or primer, but no holes either!
Car info:
The Nittos look to be in pretty good condition from what I can tell, but I’m no tire expert. The rears have had 5 passes on a 1/8 mile track and the fronts have had 9. I’ve never had an alignment as I can’t find a competent shop that can align a 20” rim. The rears also have two burnouts (to test the line locks).
The driveshaft has a rub mark on it from the e-brake cable. The cable slipped out from under the gas tank during the UCA install and I didn’t see it until much later. The marks are superficial and the brake is fully functional. There is some tape around it to protect it as well.
Nothing has been welded in (i.e., relocation brackets, axle brace, driveshaft loop, etc.).
The Dynatech cats will fail if you run boost through them, period. The adapters are designed to provide for an off-road system with no cats, or you could just drill through the existing ones.
It needs a new tune to compensate for the GT500 TB & nitrous. I haven’t had the money to get one, but it still runs fine. I drive it everyday to work.
Oil is changed regularly (3-4K miles). I’ve tried Mobil 1, Penzoil, Royal Purple. It all acts the same to me, but I’m no oil expert either. There is a sandwich adapter on the filter housing for the gauges; you’ll need a shorter filter. Can easily get those at AutoZone, Kragen, etc. I’ll also give you the socket for the adapter incase it ever loosens up on you. You don’t want that to happen, trust me!!!
There are fuse taps in the fuse box, although there is nothing drawing power from it. When I initially installed the gauges, I used a fuse block and its supplied taps. When I wanted to remove them to use a more convenient source, I realized that the taps “stretch” the contacts and the fuses won’t sit in the holder properly, causing components of the car to not work properly, or at all. Fuses not seating properly is a known issue with some of these cars, so this didn’t exactly make it better. But it’s functional with no CEL’s.
The stripes aren’t straight. They were on the car when I bought them so don’t shoot me. The previous owner had good intentions, but when you pay $300 for stripes, you get a $300 stripe job. The good news is that no one will know that the stripes aren’t straight unless you tell them. It took me nearly a year to notice it. I’ve had people look at them and the said they couldn’t tell. You can though. I was considering new stripes, but since I’m selling the car, that idea is out the window.
There are a couple of scratches, but there’s a nice one on one of the stripes. I had the car on stands with the hood open and closed the garage door, forgetting about the hood. The scratch should be easily repairable though with some touch-up paint and/or minor body work.
The Dynamat looks like shit. I didn’t have $600 to get it installed and opted to do it myself. It does its job and no one will ever see it, but it looks like shit to me. I’m a bit anal about things, so stuff like that really bothers me.
I didn’t like the purple of the ZEX kit, so I opted to paint it blue. I should have read up on painting things that have been anodized because it looks like shit. Kit still works, just needs to be cleaned up if you plan on winning any trophies based on its looks.
I’ve got diagrams of how everything is wired, so there wouldn’t be any confusion when it came time to upgrade or change stuff.
The amp will not come hooked up. Everything was removed for a major overhaul, but since this is a sudden change in plans, everything is being left as-is. The door subs aren’t hooked up to work with the aftermarket HU, but I do have the adapter that is needed to make them work.
I don’t smoke. Not that there is an ashtray in here anyway, but I don’t smoke and smokers don’t ride with me.
I’ve got all of the paperwork that was given to me when I bought it, plus receipts of installs by shops and just about every receipt of the stuff I’ve bought.
I could have parted it out, but honestly, I don’t feel like it and like I said, the shit has hit the fan and I need cash ASAP. I’ve got a shitload of wrenchtime on this thing and I certainly wouldn’t sell it like this if it wasn’t vital to me.
$16000/OBO takes it home. Help me help you help me on this.
More pics to come; the camera is charging up right now.
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