Bullitt went back to DBR Performance on March 15th 2017 ...
Guys,
I'm going to take a few minutes and just talk in general about High H/P (Horsepower) vehicles.
Most of you that know me know I try my best to tell things as they really are.
So, here is what I have to say on the above situation.
Be aware everyone (Before) you get to Wild & Crazy on your Super-High-Horsepower vehicles.
I'm speaking from experience so this is not someone typing and giving suggestions that honestly has no idea what the heck their talking about.
I have had my existing 08 Mustang since I ordered and picked it up back in 2008.
This is now March of 2017 which is roughly 9-yrs. later.
And in those 9-years it has always been worked on for Changes/Modifications & necessary Maintenance to keep it totally functional.
Let me give yo a rough idea of where I'm coming from on this matter.
The 1st 8-yrs. I made the decisions to have BRENSPEED in Pierceton, IN do changes/modifications to it.
That included changing it from a manual transmission Mustang to an automatic as well as also replacing the Ford Stock Engine.
Also had the Saleen Super Shaker Supercharger changed to the Roush Highly-Modified unit along with further changes to the B-302 stroker engine.
So, that's what took place up until 2015 when all the last changes/modifications at BRENSPEED took place and it was delivered back to me at home.
Let me get to the MEAT of this story for all of you interested and those that just might think I know what I'm talking about in general.
My Mustang when it had the B-302 and the Saleen Super Shaker plus the TCI SSF (Super Street Fighter) tranny was around 560 RWHP.
Point is the Mustang was very-very-very reliable for daily use and traveling anywhere anytime covering thousands upon thousands of road miles.
It was also raced a lot back then over the years and in fact it went 10.32 ET at 135.56 MPH way back in 2011.
I drove it to what's called the Texas Shootout in Lufkin, TX. and ran it 18-Passes myself on Continental DW street tires
with 93-Octane Pump Gas also back in 2011.
Here is why I'm showing you and talking about the above when it was 560 RWHP versus what it is today at 817.45 RWHP Plus.
Now, finally let me get to what this is really about below.
I can tell you that mine has not been what I would refer to as Reliable since it was Modified back in 2015 and delivered to me at home.
Seriously guys it has been an ongoing, with never-ending problems and this is now March 17th 2017 and as I said I got it back in August of 2015 here at home.
Let me cover some of the things that have taken place with it since 2015 to give you just a rough idea.
(And before I do that this is not me "
Belittling" in any Shop-Out just telling you so you know what can happen)
Exhaust came loose from the H-Pipe and fell from under it on the way back from Lufkin, TX. at the 2014 TX. Shootout I attended.
(A Close Friend actually had a Blanket and Crawled under the Mustang and placed the exhaust so it was not dragging the interstate)
We then found a Walmart Service Center and they put the exhaust back in place and re-tightened it.
While at that same TX Shootout I was going to make a pass with another S/C Bullitt Mustang and when I did the engine completely Cut-Off 1st pass.
Thankfully I got hold of Brent (Owner of Brenspeed) on a Sunday and he told us where the fuse was for the 40-Amp Boost-A-Pump.
Took the 30-Amp fuse for the rear-window-defroster out and plugged it into the fuse holder for the boost-a-pump and all was A-OK.
I decided not to make another pass as the general consensus was it would do it again so left well enough alone.
Leaking/Seeping Roush modified S/C was completely replaced along with a badly worn Steeda serpentine belt tensioner.
Front Crank Seal dripping oil.
Rear Differential Cover seeping/dripping fluid.
Worn bearings in all the idler pulleys and were totally replaced with double bearing pulleys.
Steeda serpentine belt tensioner was replaced with a Billet Racing unit with double the tension on it's internal spring.
To correct that 30-Amp fuse from blowing again a new 40-Amp relay was installed.
Here is one of the more expensive things that took place while I was visiting a buddy here in Franklin, TN.
I started the engine to pull out of his shop driveway and all of a sudden there was a Clicking-Noise coming from under one of the valve covers.
I had my buddy listen to it with his stethoscope and sure enough it was under the valve cover and sounded like to him a broken or loose cam follower.
Mustang was picked-up and it turned out it was a broken or came loose cam stock follower.
Suggestion was to go with the Jesel Billet Roller cam followers.
That was done and took care of that issue.
It also marred one of the Comp Cams so a new set of Comp Cams were also installed.
I also had it converted from a 6-rib serpentine belt set-up that is stock to an 8-rib set-up.
(They came to my house and did the work)
That was a necessity as the 1st time I drove it after getting it back with the 6-rib and hit the gas it threw the belt instantly.
So the 8-rib complete set-up was installed.
After that for some UN-known reason every once in awhile it would make a noticeable Squeaking/Squealing sound from the serpentine belt area.
My buddy suggested going with the HD (Heavy-Duty) Green Belt so he ordered it and installed it for me.
That worked for a little while and then the noise was right back every once in awhile as it was with the other black-belt.
So actually I went through multiple belts and as always the noise would come back and as time went on it became much more frequent.
Also tried different belt dressings and that like changing the green belts lasted only briefly.
Finally I got completely fed-up with it and went to DBR Performance and talked it over with Jon the Shop-Foreman that had done other work on mine for a year or so.
Well turns out he found out and showed me all the idler pulleys were worn and rough feeling as well as the grease had come out of them.
They were the single-bearing-idler-pulleys.
So he said Terry if it was mine I would replace these with the racing-double-bearing-idler pulleys.
He also ordered a kit and rebuilt the existing two double bearing pulleys at the same time.
Tried it out for a week or so driving it around as the weather permitted.
Guess what ???
The noise showed up again when he would get on a slight hill under a load.
If he let off and then got back on the gas it would not do it again.
So, they ended up putting it on their Dyno so hopefully one could get in it and ride the brakes to put a load on it while the other checked under the hood.
Sure enough they got it to do it over and over and it turned out to be the Innovators West 18% overdrive Crank Damper.
They said the only use ATI and never had a Failure so I said have at it guys.
Jon installs the ATI 20% over-drive crank damper and sure enough no noise, period, finally !!!
Now this week I'm going over to hang-out with Bobby Price that also owns a S/C Bullitt Mustang with a Paxton.
On the way to his house I get maybe 10-12 miles down the I-65 North interstate and all of a sudden there is some sort of Racket and Rough feeling coming from the rear-end.
I pull off at the next exit and sure enough as I make sharp turns it is very noticeable so turn around and head to DBR Performance.
Get there and Jon putts it on a lift and can't really at 1st see what the heck is causing the popping/racket.
He noticed it immediately just backing it up in the parking lot and pulling it in the shop.
Turns out it was not the differential at all it was coming from the C/F (Carbon Fiber) DRIVESHAFT Shop driveshaft.
He ended up taking it completely apart and servicing it and putting it back together.
He called them 1st and told them what he found and they said to simply take Emory-Cloth and clean lightly the scratched surfaces and polish the ball bearings.
Then repack it with grease.
They said a new one over time would do the exact same thing so no need to replace it with a new one.
Since Jon had the Rear-Differential-Inspection-Cover off he checked it out completely.
He found that the Carbon Clutches were not holding as they did when new.
He ordered a rebuild kit and installed it and also added a 30 thousands shim for some extra tension to the carbon clutches.
Test drove it and all once again is A-OK.
I have not picked it up as the weather here is very heavy overcast with rain in the forecast so next week I'll go retrieve it.
Now the above was what I can instantly think of that has gone on with mine since I got it back in August of 2015.
And this is why I have decided to tell this lengthy story above for you.
I highly suggest you make doggone sure you have lots & lots of "Reserve" monies guys before you get into one of these higher H/P vehicles.
You might think that your initial investment that you were all set for was going to cover 99% of things.
I can tell you that more than likely is not even going to come close to what your Real-Out-of-Pocket-Expense is going to End-Up.
And to also touch on something else here while I'm typing and giving advise.
If your Mustang is basically going to be driven on the street and rarely raced then do yourself a Major-Favor and keep the H/P down to like 500 RWHP.
I can tell you that mine was a Bad @SS machine when it was in the 500 H/P range on the street and the Drag-Strip and totally Reliable.
Much-much easier to drive Fast on the Street than it has become.
And as far as tires under it I can tell you they won't do diddly squat for traction no matter which ones you run.
(Yes you can run Drag-Radials on the street true enough but you better hope your Bank Account is LARGE.
Because the hotter the weather and the faster you drive and the longer the distances the quicker those Drag-Radials are going to Wear-Out.
I'm not going to get off on some tangent here on running drag-radials on the street other than to say you better hope they are new if it sprinkles rain.
Because if you check you'll see they don't come with much Tread-Depth even New so any real driving on the street will wear them quickly and they will be a Disaster waiting to happen in the rain.
My last advise is to take the information I have provided and use it to your advantage in your decisions.
Don't get all caught up in the HYPE and friends patting you on the back suggesting what you should do !!!
Use your own head and decide if you want a Reliable Fast Mustang or one that very easily could be more of a Status Symbol for Bragging rights.
As I said above this post is not to Complain, Belittle any Shop, Tech etc. it is to supply Real-World information to others on their building of Mustangs.
Good-Luck guys .............
Below are the pictures Jon provided me of what he just did to mine regarding the CF Driveshaft & Rear Differential Carbon Clutches.
I hope those that have followed this Bullitt Mustang find the above as informative and helpful as that is my intention.
What I have not done is Complain, Belittle, Criticize, any Performance Shop above this is as I said for information to those of you that hopefully take it for it's intent and purpose.
Terry
