2010-2011 wiring diagrams? fuel system

JeremyH

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I struck out trying to find something.

I have the pinout and diagrams for 05-09. And Im trying to verify the pins didnt swap for 2010.

Here is the 05-09.

05FPDMconn.jpg


2010 PRIMARY FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE

Pin/Circuit/Circuit FunctionQualifier
1 VE518 (BN-WH) MONITOR - FUEL PUMP (FPM)
2 RE515 (WH-BN) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 -
3 GD109 (BK) GROUND - COMBINED REAR LAMP LEFT
4 CE515 (YE-GY) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 +
5 CE911 (VT-WH) SWITCH - INERTIA (VPWR)
6 VE225 (YE-OG) CTRL MOD. - POWERTRAIN # FUEL PUMP MODULE COMMAND (FPC)


05FPDM.jpg
 
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Greg Hazlett

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Didn't we determing when we wired the BAP in that one wire changed colors?

I know on the connection from the harness to the fuel pump there were changes-remember we could not get the fuel gauge correct until we figured out the 4 wires?
 

JeremyH

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Yeap, thats what has me concerned. The fact that we know the wire colors changed and that your fpdm got really hot when installed in my car only for a few minutes. I got a 2010 fpdm off the forum to test but I need to verify pin-outs for the different wires to test it in my car properly as I suspect they moved.

They changed alot of little stuff in 2010, it should almost have its own tech section with all this crap...
 
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tmcolegr

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2010 PRIMARY FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE

Pin/Circuit/Circuit FunctionQualifier
1 VE518 (BN-WH) MONITOR - FUEL PUMP (FPM)
2 RE515 (WH-BN) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 -
3 GD109 (BK) GROUND - COMBINED REAR LAMP LEFT
4 CE515 (YE-GY) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 +
5 CE911 (VT-WH) SWITCH - INERTIA (VPWR)
6 VE225 (YE-OG) CTRL MOD. - POWERTRAIN # FUEL PUMP MODULE COMMAND (FPC)
 

lito

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Aren't the FPDM's the same?

On Pre 10, they are (GT500 and GT)

edit: Actually, both wirings shown here are.(Different colors, pero same locations)
 

Greg Hazlett

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I think I installed the GT 500 FPDM in my car which is what we used to test his car...
 

lito

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Ok, will extend the comment a little.

Electronically, they are the same, the 2nd FPDM has a different bracket though.

My take is this. Just a suggestion of what happened and what is going on.

Jeremy has been using a single and BAP'ped FPDM to drive two GT pumps, something I personally dislike and don't recommend, no matter how long it has been working so far.

One of the pumps or the internal hose/connection is gone. PCM is commanding 100% FPDC, because of this. FPDM died because of this. Pump issue is still there and that is why when a new FPDM is plugged it gets hot and the one he has not.

Just an idea.

Logging and voltage measuring would give a better picture.
 

JeremyH

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2010 PRIMARY FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE

Pin/Circuit/Circuit FunctionQualifier
1 VE518 (BN-WH) MONITOR - FUEL PUMP (FPM)
2 RE515 (WH-BN) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 -
3 GD109 (BK) GROUND - COMBINED REAR LAMP LEFT
4 CE515 (YE-GY) DRIVER - FUEL PUMP MOTOR (FPDM) #1 +
5 CE911 (VT-WH) SWITCH - INERTIA (VPWR)
6 VE225 (YE-OG) CTRL MOD. - POWERTRAIN # FUEL PUMP MODULE COMMAND (FPC)

So whats up wiht pin 2?

GT

If that's not what he needs I have it for the GT 500 as well...

specifically what year 2010 or 2011?

Yes 2010 gt is what i needed, thanks

Aren't the FPDM's the same?

On Pre 10, they are (GT500 and GT)

edit: Actually, both wirings shown here are.(Different colors, pero same locations)

I think I installed the GT 500 FPDM in my car which is what we used to test his car...

Yeap 05-09 gt and 07-09 gt500 fpdm are the same the second fpdm on the gt500 does have the different mounting bracket for the different location, thats it.

Ok, will extend the comment a little.

Electronically, they are the same, the 2nd FPDM has a different bracket though.

My take is this. Just a suggestion of what happened and what is going on.

Jeremy has been using a single and BAP'ped FPDM to drive two GT pumps, something I personally dislike and don't recommend, no matter how long it has been working so far.

One of the pumps or the internal hose/connection is gone. PCM is commanding 100% FPDC, because of this. FPDM died because of this. Pump issue is still there and that is why when a new FPDM is plugged it gets hot and the one he has not.

Just an idea.

Logging and voltage measuring would give a better picture.

I think you are on the right track. That makes sense.

One Fuel pump started failing, fpdm tried to compensate by sending the full 17v to the pumps all the time and still not achieving ordered delta pressure. Which caused failure of the fpdm from increased load.

Thats why Greg's fpdm (good fpdm) got hot trying to correct the delta pressure. (note with gregs fpdm we sall a max of 20psi on the gauge, which I was only seeing 10-12psi with my fpdm in the car. So that makes sense lito.
 
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JeremyH

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While im at it Im going to overhaul the system a little. My original plan was if the single fpdm ever didnt cut it I was going to add a second and run a dedicated pump off each. Well this seems like a downfall of the single system to me so time to upgrade.

Here's my idea, feel free to make suggestions.

Keep the stock hat.
Put 2 Aeromotive 340 stealth pumps on it. 12awg power and ground wire to each pump. (drill holes throught the top of the hat to run them). What would be the best sealant to use on the top after I do this?

Add second fpdm, mounting them directly above the fuel tank behind the rear seat. Run an 8awg power wire off the battery to the relay or keep 10awg I have right now?

Run the pump grounds directly to the frame. Or should I run the ground for each pump back to their fpdm?

Keep bap or remove? It s a single 40amp bap. I have 30 amp fuses on the system right now, never blown a fuse.

I will draw up a sketch of the plan to make sure I got everything setup right.

This will get techy so i will finish it up in my other thread. :)
 
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GB10

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Pinout is the same like Lito said, just one or two wires are different colors. I had dual FPDMs in my car that I wired just as 05-09 setups.

Regarding the wiring directly to the pumps, I ran 12 ga wire through the hat directly to each pump. I used stainless steel #8-32 studs with a nylon washer on one side and a nylon shoulder washer (http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-shoulder-washers/=d8isb5) on the other side to seal the connection. Basically just insert the shoulder washer in the hole then make the hole on the other regular nylon washer large enough to slide over the shoulder washer on the opposite side. Next, use a #8 stainless washer and nut on each side of the hat to seal the hole by pressing the nylon washers against the hat. Then another stainless locking nut to tighten down on ring terminals for the wires. You have to run a separate ground from each FPDM since the ground is switched to control voltage to the pumps.

Let me know if you need a wiring diagram and I can post it.

DSC01297.jpg


DSC01299.jpg
 

JeremyH

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Man its like you were reading my mind. lol

And you just used ring terminals on either side right. Nice job!

So you didnt need any kind of silicone sealant on those conenctions at all. No leaks?
 

Bobby

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but the fpdm has thermal over load to protect it so i rule that out the older fpdm would go into thermal over load easy but these can actually carry a bigger load on them that is why you can run two pumps with them, but the boosta pump is hurting it a bit. i personally would never use a boosta pump that is just a band aid if you ask me.do it right, just look at the power you are making. you can do it on 2 gt super car pumps without the boosta pump easy.
 

lito

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Exactly as GB10 wrote it. I wish Fore used some kind of terminals in their hats as I haven't found an installed one that does not smell.

If the GT pumps worked great for you why change? maybe you can check which one is going bad and change that one out, plus add all the connectors and the 2nd FPDM plus wiring. Keeping all the rest as you already have it.

I would like to see someone using the new stealths on a modulated setup and see how they work first. The thing is that FGT pumps are getting more expensive everyday.
 

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