2010 Auto trans. Slips from 2nd to 3rd just bought car ... uggggg

[Mach Silver]

I'm not sure but I think the Ford transmissions now require a special tool or fitting that you screw into the drain plug to fill them. Pretty much a dealer only item or a good shop that specializes in transmissions. I was going to suggest just changing the fluid but ford doesn't allow it to be that easy.

Therefore the next best option would be to buy an aftermarket pan with a dipstick, filter and fluid. Change it yourself and put a real pan on it with a real dipstick. Or pay a dealership several hundred dollars to change the fluid for you and still not be able to check it.

Another option might be to run it by the dealership where you bought it. Depending on the integrity of the dealer you might at least get a fluid and filter change out of the deal. I hope it's nothing more serious.

You can get the fill plug from Amazon for 11 to 15 bucks its made I think by OTC im ordering one myself.

Just bought this 2010 auto gt monday. Has 80k miles .... I thought about going for a newer coyote 5.0 but always wanted this body style and own a couple 2v 4.6's that i always wanted to mod in my vics but never could because theres not really much for tunes for vics etc..... So figured id get the body style i wanted and be able to do the 4.6 modding ive wanted to do.

Anyway, i got this 2010 gt and been running/shifting fine since I got it monday. On the way to work im grannying it and when it shifted from second to third rpms jumped from about 2k to 2.5k and then it grabbed. Happened 2 more times on way home from work at cruising speeds.
My work is only a mile or so from home so if it was low on fluid would it do this so soon before warming up?
Doesnt do it if I get on it just when cruising. Ive worked on cars/motors my whole life but never been a transmission guy so dont know whats going on. Not sure if its slipping or just engaging sluggishly.

I see theres no dipstick on these (why ford?) and dont have a lift and not putting it on stands just to check fluid.
Supposedly dealer checked or replaced all fluids but maybe they didnt have it to temp I dont know. Probably the reason the last owner traded it in.

This really sucks .... They wanted $14,500 but got out of there at $13,500 which is still close to what I could of got a early coyote with 50-100k miles for.
I was going to order sct tuner and start ordering headers/exhaust but now have this to deal with.

Any easy driveway method of checking fluid? The one good trans shop we had that didnt rape customers is closed now and dont trust the other shops around here but not a trans expert either..... Ive replaced filters/seals and dropped/installed trannys but thats the extent of it.

so what do you guys suggest? Whats likely going on ? Im pretty bummed

I have found some good resources on this issue and its pretty common for the 5R55S and W. To check the fluid you need an Allen wrench to reach up in the middle of the oil pan to pull a plug then you fill the transmission with the fill plug you can get off of amazon for 11-15 bucks. But the real bummer is the solenoid issue. There are repair kits for them and you dont have to pull the transmission but you need a good torqure wrench and be mechanicaly maybe a bit more then just changing plugs in your car. I have this problem right now with mine. I have installed shift kits and done basic service on other transmissions so I think I can tackle this. But its important to catch it fast from what I am told because it can cause more costly damage if you keep driving it, like I have been doing. Speed up let off the gas and give it a second an it shifts to 4th and skips 3rd. Works better with OD off too.









Here is the fill tool this one is 11 bucks

A filter change and flush won't hurt but be aware it is not a full fluid change. Only partial. About 5 quarts out of the 11.8 it takes.

There is a possible way to change all the fluid without going to the dealer, but it is involved.

Drop the pan and change the filter. Refill the missing fluid. This fluid will also get changed.

You will need:
Two clean 5 gallon buckets.
A 12 foot (or so) length of clear tube cut into two pieces.
14-15 quarts of your favorite fluid. Will explain why the extra in a moment.
Jack the car up off the ground as high as you can. Use jack stands.
A trusted friend to help.

Someplace on the trans is an output to feed fluid to a cooler and another place to return it into the trans. You disconnect (or tap into) the output between the output and the cooler and connect a tube to one of the buckets to act as a collection bucket.

The other tube is connected to the line headed to the cooler (or the inlet port) and is dropped down into the bottom of the feed bucket. Fill this bucket with all the new fluid. All of it.

With your friend watching the buckets....

Start the car and run it through the gears several times. As the trans runs it will pump the old fluid out into the collection bucket while drawing the new fluid out of the feed bucket.

Here's the part about why to have the extra quarts.

As the trans draws the fluid in from the feed bucket you run the collection bucket past the 12 quart (3 gallons) mark to make sure you changed all the old fluid out. If the old fluid has a different color, watch for it to change to the new/fresh color.

You should be done before the bucket of new fluid runs dry. And your friend should help you know when to stop.

If you put an aftermarket extra capacity pan adjust the number of quarts accordingly.

This should change all the fluid in the trans and also the convertor. I think the 5R55S fluid path is internal so the convertor fluid is continually flowed through the filter with the fluid in the rest of the transmission.

I have not done this, but read about it and plan to do it to my F150.

I was wondering how this would work, because when I worked at a shop that flushed they had a machine but i often wondered if you could do it this way too. Thank You ... Ill bet it can be messy, Im sure it will be for me...lol

 

[deezdrama]

well, I finally got around to cleaning garage out (still a mess) and making room for the car. Ive spent $400 on stuff to change filter/fluid and buying 2x12's to build a "race ramps" style ramp/lift. I have jacks,ramps,stands but so sick of having to jack cars up so building this ramp/lift that will be much like the race ramps full 3 piece setup. Just mocking up size etc in pic.

I could of just took the $400 and had dealer flush it but will be nice having a fullsize ramp in the garage for future exhaust work, oil changes, fluid film treatment etc..... poor mans pit lol.

Anyway, I seen this youtube vid (

) where the guy explains most shifting issues are caused by the solenoids bushings being gummed up and he shows how to clean them. I wonder if this is worth messing with or if I should just replace them while im in there to maybe prevent any future damage if it is just the solenoids acting up???
Are the solenoids just bolted next to valve body or does the valve body need to come down? (EDIT... Just noticed your post Mach Silver, looks like the solenoids are just bolted next to the valve body, And I have the fill adapter already) Should I just buy oem replacement solenoid pack or are there better aftermarket ones?

Got another cold front in so parked black betty in the garage untill I can get the trans sorted.
I have the fluid,filter,oil gun, and adapter. Will I need a gasket for drain nut? Should I definitely swap out the solenoid pack?

 

[RocketcarX]

I just pull a speed sensor and dump the fluid in through that hole, it's a lot easier than messing with a suction pump and that stupid tool.

 

[Mach Silver]

I'm not sure but I think the Ford transmissions now require a special tool or fitting that you screw into the drain plug to fill them. Pretty much a dealer only item or a good shop that specializes in transmissions. I was going to suggest just changing the fluid but ford doesn't allow it to be that easy.

Therefore the next best option would be to buy an aftermarket pan with a dipstick, filter and fluid. Change it yourself and put a real pan on it with a real dipstick. Or pay a dealership several hundred dollars to change the fluid for you and still not be able to check it.

Another option might be to run it by the dealership where you bought it. Depending on the integrity of the dealer you might at least get a fluid and filter change out of the deal. I hope it's nothing more serious.

SST-6604 Transmission Fluid Fill Adapter 5R55W Same as OTC 6604 Ford 307-437

11 to 15 bucks on Amazon.

Just bought this 2010 auto gt monday. Has 80k miles .... I thought about going for a newer coyote 5.0 but always wanted this body style and own a couple 2v 4.6's that i always wanted to mod in my vics but never could because theres not really much for tunes for vics etc..... So figured id get the body style i wanted and be able to do the 4.6 modding ive wanted to do.

Anyway, i got this 2010 gt and been running/shifting fine since I got it monday. On the way to work im grannying it and when it shifted from second to third rpms jumped from about 2k to 2.5k and then it grabbed. Happened 2 more times on way home from work at cruising speeds.
My work is only a mile or so from home so if it was low on fluid would it do this so soon before warming up?
Doesnt do it if I get on it just when cruising. Ive worked on cars/motors my whole life but never been a transmission guy so dont know whats going on. Not sure if its slipping or just engaging sluggishly.

I see theres no dipstick on these (why ford?) and dont have a lift and not putting it on stands just to check fluid.
Supposedly dealer checked or replaced all fluids but maybe they didnt have it to temp I dont know. Probably the reason the last owner traded it in.

This really sucks .... They wanted $14,500 but got out of there at $13,500 which is still close to what I could of got a early coyote with 50-100k miles for.
I was going to order sct tuner and start ordering headers/exhaust but now have this to deal with.

Any easy driveway method of checking fluid? The one good trans shop we had that didnt rape customers is closed now and dont trust the other shops around here but not a trans expert either..... Ive replaced filters/seals and dropped/installed trannys but thats the extent of it.

so what do you guys suggest? Whats likely going on ? Im pretty bummed

the Valve Body and EPC solenoids need work, there are update kits and repair kits I have found for these.

 

[RocketcarX]

You need the suction pump deal to shoot the fluid into that fitting as well

 

[deezdrama]

Guys... i have the adapter, oil pump gun, filter , and fluid already. Just waiting for a decent weekend to do it.

Wondering if I should order a new solenoid pack to install while i have the pan off or wait and see what fluid in the pan looks like first?

Also... i read someone mentioned new gasket for drainplug.... do i need one?

Im starting to think im just going to change fluid/filter and drive it untill it fails and order a remanufactured trans.
Anyone have any trusted sources for reman 5r55s? I found one that has 5 year warranty for $1750 but dont know if its sleeved, uses oem parts, etc

 

[RocketcarX]

I would do this along with the fluid change
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5R55W-5R55...2-2010-Worn-Servo-Bore-Fix-Ford-/252592054412

 

[deezdrama]

Yeah, i dont want any trans surprises in the near future so i guess its probably best to do the servo bore o-ring fix, do you guys think I should order a reman solenoid block too? Ill probably do both and get the dipstick pan too and those along with filter and a couple fluid changes will hopefully fix my shift flare and add some life to this thing.

Is this what you guys would do?
Should I adjust bands as well? What do you need to set proper adjustment on them? Just an in/lb torque wrench or?

 

[RocketcarX]

Yeah, i dont want any trans surprises in the near future so i guess its probably best to do the servo bore o-ring fix, do you guys think I should order a reman solenoid block too? Ill probably do both and get the dipstick pan too and those along with filter and a couple fluid changes will hopefully fix my shift flare and add some life to this thing.

Is this what you guys would do?
Should I adjust bands as well? What do you need to set proper adjustment on them? Just an in/lb torque wrench or?

I would do the servo bore fix and the solenoid pack if you have the money, both of those would be used in the event an overhaul is needed. Don't mess with the bands you could smoke the transmission if you F it up.

 

[deezdrama]

Just got done watching the servo bore fix install video (

) and looks simple enough..... after watching the video I went to the website and read a statement about the 5r55 not needing to be dropped to perform the servo swap on an explorer....... but what about mustangs?
Anyone install these and know for sure there is enough room to get them in/out once heat shields are removed?
I think it would be pretty dumb for me not to install these. Ive only noticed the slight flare a few times but this along with regular oil changes using high quality synthetic atf should hopefully keep this trans shifting for a long while.
Just want to make sure i can get them installed and that theres room to install them on my car without dropping trans.

If im good to go then will be ordering a pair of the servos, a tubed pan (anyone know of where i can still find the deep pan with filler tube?) and a solenoid pack.
For solenoid pack is this ok?.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/5R55W-5R55...ash=item3afbed2983:g:HT4AAOSwB4BaRXiD&vxp=mtr
Or should I go with new oem? I wonder if refurbished just means they cleaned it cause I can do that myself with the stock one.

 

[deezdrama]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ore-problem-2005-w-5r55s-tranny.341593/page-3

Wow... heres a somewhat long thread with people on the explorer forum having shiftflare issues and servo bore fix and solenoids not helping, they finally went with reman transmissions and were happy. Now im wondering if i should just skip all the parts and start saving for a reman trans

 

[07 Boss]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ore-problem-2005-w-5r55s-tranny.341593/page-3

Wow... heres a somewhat long thread with people on the explorer forum having shiftflare issues and servo bore fix and solenoids not helping, they finally went with reman transmissions and were happy. Now im wondering if i should just skip all the parts and start saving for a reman trans

Well the problem is that once the bands are fried replacing servo bores and solenoid packs won't help. It may make it better in the short tun but the damage is done.

 

[deezdrama]

Well.... on mine ive only noticed the flare a few times and it was a half second flare around 2000rpm it jumps 400-500rpm then engages.

Dont know how long its been doing it but it feels minor and not a constant thing.

I guess it would probably be worth a try what do you think?

 

[702GT]

This is where Ford makes me want to slap the shit out of a yuppy yup "suit." Changing a maintenance schedule to give your fleet a better reliability rating without actually doing a damn thing to increase the reliability of a part is retarded. 150k/mi tranny fluid, said no engineer ever without a gun to his head. Says the same thing in my F250 maintenance schedule (although I still have a dipstick). The only recourse I can see for you, OP, is to check with your states lemon laws (yes, lemon law usually applies to new vehicle purchases, however some states do include used vehicles as long as a licensed dealer is selling it). The biggest problem is Ford's maintenance schedule, it's actually what would screw you in the event that a lemon law could help you. Because the maintenance schedule states 150k/mi the dealer can claim they followed the manufacturer's schedule and the car passed all the required inspections to be operated safely and reliably on that states roads. Frankly, I'm sure when you called them, they praised the finance gods that they dodged a bullet with that car.


On that note (rant), I've had great experience with reman'd tranny's. Not in Mustangs, as I've never had to replace any of mine. But my '93 Chevy 1500 4.3, OEM tranny finally shit the bed at 230k/mi (was well taken care of). Bought a $500 reman off craigslist from a guy in AZ, he actually delivered it to the house and took the old tranny as core. Slapped the new reman in, truck was better than new. Same on an old '96 T-Bird 4R70W. Tranny crapped out at 68k/mi (I only had the car for 2 months at that point). Called the local tranny shop to inquire on rebuild prices, tech told me it would be cheaper to do a reman and gave me their supplier number. Cost $1100 shipped to my door, slapped it in, better than new. Most of the reman's I've dealt with use OE quality parts or better, particularly when it comes to shift kits, they seem to be superior to OEM.

If you can get a reman for $1800, I'd say go for it. It also may be worth comparing to a built auto (something sporty with some parts upgrades for supporting future power increases, doesn't have to be level 10 drag shit unless that's what you want). If the price were $1800 for OE reman and $2800 for a built 5R, I may side with the built 5R. If you can/want to drive manual, that's an option to. Just depends on the price you can swallow and the work you want to do. Again, this is all what I would do in your shoes. There's really no easy out, if the car wants blood and money, I'm going to get the most for it. Looking forward to your resolution.

 

[Pentalab]

I have heard a lot of horror stories about the level 10 fully built 5r55s....and ditto with the TCI street fighter and also the TCI super street fighter.. ( typ $3700+). Neither used the HD bands etc. Some folks had huge issues with the TCI units... right out of the crate. I asked the local Ford dealer years ago about when the auto tranny fluid should be swapped out, and they just shrugged, "it doesn't get changed out, stays in forever".

Yet the same Ford dealer has a definite ATF fluid swap schedule for my 2011 Fusion. It was changed out around 30 k miles.

Without the catch can, the 5r55s will puke out ATF fluid. With no dipstick, you could easily be down one helluva lot of ATF, and never know it..until it starts slipping etc.

Best I could do for my 2010 auto was install the tranny catch can, install a 2nd tranny cooler in series with oem unit, then install the deeper tranny pan, with it's dipstick + drain plug, then suck out all the old ATF, and replace with 100% synthetic. With any blower setup, the tune for the auto tranny has to be done very carefully. You want the shifts firmer and faster..or the poor 5r55s won't last very long.

The up shifts are usually not the problem on a good 5r55s. It's the downshifts that you want to avoid like the plague, stuff to avoid is a 5-3 shift, 5-2 shift, 5-1 shift, 4-2 shift, 4-1 shift.
A 5-4, 4-3, 3-2, 2-1 is ok.

 

[702GT]

I have heard a lot of horror stories about the level 10 fully built 5r55s....and ditto with the TCI street fighter and also the TCI super street fighter.. ( typ $3700+). Neither used the HD bands etc. Some folks had huge issues with the TCI units... right out of the crate. I asked the local Ford dealer years ago about when the auto tranny fluid should be swapped out, and they just shrugged, "it doesn't get changed out, stays in forever".

Yet the same Ford dealer has a definite ATF fluid swap schedule for my 2011 Fusion. It was changed out around 30 k miles.

Without the catch can, the 5r55s will puke out ATF fluid. With no dipstick, you could easily be down one helluva lot of ATF, and never know it..until it starts slipping etc.

Best I could do for my 2010 auto was install the tranny catch can, install a 2nd tranny cooler in series with oem unit, then install the deeper tranny pan, with it's dipstick + drain plug, then suck out all the old ATF, and replace with 100% synthetic. With any blower setup, the tune for the auto tranny has to be done very carefully. You want the shifts firmer and faster..or the poor 5r55s won't last very long.

The up shifts are usually not the problem on a good 5r55s. It's the downshifts that you want to avoid like the plague, stuff to avoid is a 5-3 shift, 5-2 shift, 5-1 shift, 4-2 shift, 4-1 shift. A 5-4, 4-3, 3-2, 2-1 is ok.
~Well friggin just wow. So you're saying if you're cruising in 5th and mash the gas and tranny pcm says 3rd gear @WOT is going to be optimum performance, you're just jack out of luck and damaging the tranny? I didn't think the 5R's were that inferior to the 4R's. Hell, back in the day we refered to the 4R as a "slush-o-matic" because it was just dogshit terrible OE, even some of the "built" ones. Not that the AOD's were any better... ~

There was a massive stink made from (not just) Super Duty owners when Ford puked out their new service schedule for the trucks. Someone got their hands on an anonymous Ford engineer who outted Ford saying it came down from the top that Ford wanted to bump the fleet reliability ratings and wanted a "sealed" tranny introduced to the fleet. Just about the entire Ford fleet went "sealed" and was omitted tranny fluid dipsticks. Engineers went to bat for the Super Duty (and F150, I think) and insisted they could not get away with omitting a dipstick, but went ahead and carved the "150k/mi" tranny fluid schedule into the service guide. According to the engineer, there's no way the trucks will make 150k/mi without excessive wear using the same fluid the entire duration. For me, I dumped the tranny pan at 40k/mi and added new OE fluid. I will dump it again at 80k/mi, and add OE fluid. At 120k/mi, I'll dump the entire system and swap the filter, and fill with OE fluid. There's talk of "hot flush" procedures, but the majority of tranny builders/experts have agreed that method is ill advised as it would be easy to damage seals via hot flush. Old school tranny fluid swap is the way to go.

Technology is great, I'm sure there's been great strides made in synthetics and even conventional oils/fluids. The "fill for life" transmission is a myth. Machines wear, tolerances change, and leaks happen. The day they back their "fill for life" transmissions with a "lifetime" limited warranty specified around the circumstances of breakdowns/failures caused in part or entirely by tranny fluid is the day I'd throw common sense to the wind and nose right along with their maintenance schedule. They're screwing vehicles over 5yr/60k. Bunch of yuppy yup suck pumps. Can only hope karma finds them in a dark alley some day soon.

 

[Pentalab]

Sealed tranny, well the ford dealer sez the fluid never needs to be changed out on a 2010 5r55s, so I guess you can call that a 'sealed unit' too. What's a dipstick cost, 50 cents, when ur buying em 350,000 at a time ? The $175K they saved, probably went into some slush fund..to pay bonus's.
Cheap cocksuckers, plane and simple. Oem atf, while not synthetic, would still work, provided it's changed out at a regular interval. I paid $$ to have the old crap all sucked out, so imo, since the labor costs are the same, may as well use synthetic, when refilling it. 808 muscle, ( S197 member, who is in hawaii), changes out his atf every year with synthetic, since he drag races the car for the full season, doing his bracket racing.. with his small M90 blower.

If you check out JDM engineering's old notes, their 5r55s lasted exactly one season, which consisted of aprx 200 runs down the strip. They trailered the car to the strip, so to get the tranny up to temp, they used a heater inside the pan. Once up to temp, heater shut off for the day's session. After the season was over, out came the 5r55s, and off it went for it's annual rebuild. They told me the up shifts were never an issue. The problems started when they lost traction, did some back pedaling on the gas pedal, which of course means the blower shuts off, and the tranny upshifts itself into 4th gear. They regain traction, then onto the gas pedal again, blower kicks in and tranny down shifts into 2nd, and everything gets stressed to the max. They, and several other's who use the 5r55s at the strip, all noticed atf puking out all over the axle onto the ground, via the axle vent on pass side. So
they cooked up the tranny catch can, and end of that problem.

 

[RocketcarX]

Oem atf, while not synthetic

The factory fluid (Mercon V) is full synthetic, I noticed people keep saying get a "full synthetic" like it isn't.

 

[07 Boss]

I would never use TCI for a high hp tranny. Had a Level 10 Bulletproof tranny, but like it was said, they do a lot of the things to improve these units but don't use the good bands. That tranny lasted about two years of abuse before it started slipping. I have since rebuilt the Level 10 tranny locally using the HD bands. The place that did it guaranteed it for 36K miles with my spirited street/strip driving. It's been holding strong.

I would look at a good transmission shop that work on race cars or trucks before buying one built online. The problem with these things is you are limited in putting in bigger stronger parts. No matter how good you build it it is only going to be so strong. To me buying a stock re-manufactured one will just lead back to the same issues eventually.

 

[702GT]

Sealed tranny, well the ford dealer sez the fluid never needs to be changed out on a 2010 5r55s, so I guess you can call that a 'sealed unit' too. What's a dipstick cost, 50 cents, when ur buying em 350,000 at a time ? The $175K they saved, probably went into some slush fund..to pay bonus's.
Cheap cocksuckers, plane and simple. Oem atf, while not synthetic, would still work, provided it's changed out at a regular interval. I paid $$ to have the old crap all sucked out, so imo, since the labor costs are the same, may as well use synthetic, when refilling it. 808 muscle, ( S197 member, who is in hawaii), changes out his atf every year with synthetic, since he drag races the car for the full season, doing his bracket racing.. with his small M90 blower.

If you check out JDM engineering's old notes, their 5r55s lasted exactly one season, which consisted of aprx 200 runs down the strip. They trailered the car to the strip, so to get the tranny up to temp, they used a heater inside the pan. Once up to temp, heater shut off for the day's session. After the season was over, out came the 5r55s, and off it went for it's annual rebuild. They told me the up shifts were never an issue. The problems started when they lost traction, did some back pedaling on the gas pedal, which of course means the blower shuts off, and the tranny upshifts itself into 4th gear. They regain traction, then onto the gas pedal again, blower kicks in and tranny down shifts into 2nd, and everything gets stressed to the max. They, and several other's who use the 5r55s at the strip, all noticed atf puking out all over the axle onto the ground, via the axle vent on pass side. So
they cooked up the tranny catch can, and end of that problem.

All things considered, when running an auto that hard in a dedicated drag car, 200 passes is pretty good. I would be curious to know how much money is invested in the 5R originally and how much to maintain that level of durability, also how much power. Whenever I considered a performance part (or applying power to OE parts) I considered the harshest conditions proven vs the conditions I would put them through. My 3650 was pretty much flawless, IMO, at 450whp/485wtq. 485wtq was far more than what the 3650 was rated for, and it went 4 years of it. The difference was conditions. It was rare for it to see 485wtq, only occasionally, compared to a track car. I also didn't miss shifts, or hang around in O/D at WOT. 3650 will live a long time above it's rating as long as the car gods are merciful, you don't have mishaps, and the abuse isn't regular. But that's neither here nor there. If a 5R can survive high power abuse on a drag car for a track season, it can certainly survive a long time on the street with occasional abuse or a track day. My $0.02.

As far as Ford. I agree, nothing irregular there as far as greedy corporate f**ks go. However, Ford didn't care about saving money on dipsticks, they wanted the higher reliability rating. When a reliability rating is given to a car or manufacturers fleet, many of those points are taken from their maintenance service schedule. If a fleet can push their oil change interval from 3,000 miles/3 months, to 6,000 miles/6months, they gain higher reliability rating. Push a tranny service from 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles, a higher rating again. Going to a "service free" driveline component, big points for reliability rating. They're basically saying, the transmission will never cost the consumer a dime to maintain. This is why there is such a huge divide between outfits like Consumer Reports and Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book (how KBB got involved in vehicle ratings/reviews, is just dirty on their part IMO).

This is now one of those things you have to consider and look at when buying used newer model vehicles, is to look at their maintenance schedule and sniff it for fishy shit. If it has a PD blower that says "fill for life" run like the IRS is after your boat. Same for a tranny. If it says 15k/mi between engine oil changes and it has a turbo feeding off the motor oil, be extremely skeptical. I don't buy auto's unless it's a truck, but when it is a truck I want to see service history on trans, and depending on the clock reading, diff's as well. If they can't produce, I can't buy. Fortunately I got my last truck at 37,000 miles, just in time to save it from evil-doer's and dealer mechanics.