So we've spun the motor by hand while it was out of the car, no ptv or other issues. Now the oil pan is on and we dropped the motor in. We decided to turn the motor by hand and it sounds like the crank is hitting on the 2v oil pan (2001 GT stock oil pan). We're going to yank the motor to swap pans, but we'd really like to know whats different about the 2v-3v bottom ends that would cause such clearance issues? I know what the drain backs look like, but it's still 4.6 geometry down there.
2v oil pan clearance (3v swap)
- Thread starter 702GT
- Start date
Just wanted to add to this. The oil pan is basically brand new. It's not crushed or dented. We also looked up pics of a 2v to 3v pan, and the only difference is the 'fins' on the front of my 2v pan (and that's what the crank is hitting). We can't understand why they would cause an issue. The measurements of the pan are the same.
Just get the right pan? Obviously there is a clearance issue with the 2v pan. The geometry is the same but there are slight differences, different oil pump and pickup on the 3v, thicker webbing, 4 bolt mains vice 2 bolt, the 3v also has an oem windage tray that mounts between the block and the pan which creates additional clearance with the gaskets etc. (you could try to stack a couple gaskets and see if that helps)
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We're getting a 3v oil pan. You can put a 2v pan on a Teksid block and it doesn't touch it, it too is a 6 bolt main. Only a 2v pan on a 3v bottom end and you get crank hitting the pan? We used a 3v pickup and 3v pump. I would go for the added space of the windage tray and gasket, but I don't even think 1/4" would make it clear. We're positive it's the drain backs, just gotta pull the pan to prove it.
The point isn't how to fix the issue, we're getting a 3v pan to correct it. It's answering for the absurd bullshit of how a 281 modular, regardless of block type, using the same size bottom end hardware specs Ford has used since the 90's (bore x stroke) won't accept any 2v/3v/4v pan, not because it won't fit in the car, but because it doesn't clear the rotating assembly? 281 modular pan does not clear a 281 modular rotating assembly, because.... it's got 3v heads on it? See my point? I'd rather know WHY than how to fix the problem.
Edit: It can't be said that pan dimentions are different, we measured. The pans are the same L-W-H, notably the drain bolt location is different. So again, it comes down to internal conflict.
The point isn't how to fix the issue, we're getting a 3v pan to correct it. It's answering for the absurd bullshit of how a 281 modular, regardless of block type, using the same size bottom end hardware specs Ford has used since the 90's (bore x stroke) won't accept any 2v/3v/4v pan, not because it won't fit in the car, but because it doesn't clear the rotating assembly? 281 modular pan does not clear a 281 modular rotating assembly, because.... it's got 3v heads on it? See my point? I'd rather know WHY than how to fix the problem.
Edit: It can't be said that pan dimentions are different, we measured. The pans are the same L-W-H, notably the drain bolt location is different. So again, it comes down to internal conflict.
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No I dont see your point. The blocks are indeed modular, as far as everything else, some stuff will swap some wont and lots of things changed here and there over the years.
What do you mean you would rather know WHY it doesn't fit? lol You just said you know why and that it was the drain backs/internal conflict...
However, what you said doesn't make sense if the pans are exactly the same either they both will fit or they both wont. So if one does and one doesnt there has to be a difference in the pan. Under your logic the 3v pan wont work either. Also why are you waiting to get a 3v pan? As you mentioned having both and comparing them before? Or did you just try to measure them L,W,H from the outside I'm guessing?
What do you mean you would rather know WHY it doesn't fit? lol You just said you know why and that it was the drain backs/internal conflict...
However, what you said doesn't make sense if the pans are exactly the same either they both will fit or they both wont. So if one does and one doesnt there has to be a difference in the pan. Under your logic the 3v pan wont work either. Also why are you waiting to get a 3v pan? As you mentioned having both and comparing them before? Or did you just try to measure them L,W,H from the outside I'm guessing?
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We measured from the outside for now, basing off my 2008 pan to his 2001 pan. I'm just saying the clearance of the internals from a Romeo, teksid, or WAP should be the same. Why do romeo/teksid internals clear the 2v pan but WAP internals dont?
See post #4. lol There are lots of slight differences over the years and between the 2 different plants. Different parts, different part numbers, inlcuding cranks off the top of my head. The 3v aluminum block is not the same as a wap block or teksid.
TurboX
Formally Buzz Lightyear
If I recall, TMCOLEGR posted something about clearances on a oil pan. Perhaps that will help ? I am also interested because I was about to use a old 2V pan when I put my motor in, I wanted to change the position of turbo drain back since the pan was laying around. I also agree it shouldn't make a shits difference, somebody correct me but a Boss Block and my entire rotating assembly is based off a 2V isn't it ?
19COBRA93
Ford Racing
The geometry is all the same. It should fit without rubbing. You said the pan is basically new? Is it or isn't it? My bet is something with the pan is tweaked. The oil pump, pickup tube and windage tray all have no effect on the position of the pan, or the crank, and are all interchangeable (when used together).
Thank god someone else said it!
The pan is used, but was purchased new not long before his 2v had its N2O startup accident. You could say there's a couple thousand miles on it. Trust me, we inspected the shit out of it before we put it on the 3v donor block to make sure it was clean from chunks of metal and not damaged. The entire longblock was all factory 3v original, purchased right here on the forum. The only thing 2v bolted to the block was the oil pan. We used the 3v oil pickup and all that jazz. It's a 3v longblock with a 2v oil pan, period. The only difference internally, if you google and look at a 2v and 3v oil pan, the drain backs are different. The 2v has "fins" if you will. Where the 3v has "beveled" lines. We think the crank is hitting the "fins" of the 2v oil pan, won't be able to confirm 'til next week or the week after when we have time to drop the K. But you can put your hand on the front of the oil pan and feel the crank pushing on it.
Still, when the 2v motor went, it was a bent rod which in turn brought the piston skirt in contact with the crank counter-weight on the back drivers side cylinder. No other damage was incurred (except the owners pride).
This is why I would rather know "why" because in my mind, the geometry (crank stroke) hasn't changed. If it didn't hit then, it shouldn't hit now. Even a 3.800" stroker crank clears the stock pans (to my knowledge). If it is the fins that are making contact, we may just cut them off and keep rolling.
tmcolegr
It's All About the Build
Good info for us though. We have a 302 (3.800" crank) stroker build in the works, as I stated before, I thought the stock pan would clear. Apparently not. Saves the trial/error in that aspect. Thanks for the link!
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