3V build question

BigRis

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I am considering building a forged 3V for a future install. I have a stock low mile short block and have figured the cost for parts to do the short block. But I just wondered if someone could give me a approx cost to have the machine work done and a cost to have the short block assembled. Labor only. I will be using the stock crank but buying and using forged rods and pistons.
Thank you , James
Also if you or you know someone that would do either the short block assembly and/or the machine work. I have contacted a couple local shops but I was not comfortable with their lack of 3V experince.
 

stkjock

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Livernois is in MI. Probably most local 3v shop for u.
 

702GT

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In my experience with a local machine shop here in Vegas it's roughly $1200 for assembly/machine work for a shortblock.

There is always coyote rods if you are trying to build a budget 3v. Save you a couple hundred vs forged. So far they are proven in the 600-700hp range. Being an i-beam design over the common forged H-beam, you may free up some rotational mass.
 

BigRis

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This is my latest reply from a local machine shop Yikes.....
Why would you want to build a 3 valve 4.6? These engines are crap and have huge oiling issues if they have cam phasers and control solenoids, you are asking for a lot of other issues after they have been rebuilt. The oil control passages in the head and block are way way too small and develop issues if the owner does not religiously change their oil and only use 5w20 oil.

I think you are asking for a buttload of problems if you persue this project.
 

Mustang Mark

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This is my latest reply from a local machine shop Yikes.....
Why would you want to build a 3 valve 4.6? These engines are crap and have huge oiling issues if they have cam phasers and control solenoids, you are asking for a lot of other issues after they have been rebuilt. The oil control passages in the head and block are way way too small and develop issues if the owner does not religiously change their oil and only use 5w20 oil.

I think you are asking for a buttload of problems if you persue this project.

Stay far far away from this shop.
 

lito

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Time to switch machine shops, look for one that actually knows its stuff and don't act as the typical know it all with bad info.
 

skwerl

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They are probably real good at building LS motors but get lost on anything without pushrods.
 

BruceH

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More than likely it's a shop that builds the old sbc, bbc, etc for local racers. They probably would want to build your mod motor just like a sbc which would be a huge mistake.

Look for a shop that has experience with modern motors. The shop I use doesn't do a whole lot of mod motor stuff but they do LS and the new Hemi motors. This means that they can hold close tolerances needed for modern motors. The LS and Hemi blocks look quite similar to a mod motor except they are bigger and use pushrods. What a coincidence that they came out many years after Ford came out with the mod motor.
 

07TR

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Tell that guy that tons you how your 3 valve sucks that listen man if you didn't need or want my business that's all you had to say
 

BigRis

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I was kind of stunned by his tone and his ignorance. I talked to another shop that does great work but is a huge Chevy shop. He told me he is too busy working on " pencil" benders . He said he is impressed with how much power the mod motors are putting out. He was very cool and polite about it. He said if it was his he would send it to a Ford shop like Liveronis (sp?)
 

o2sys

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This is how much my block build alone cost me:

697640678f0233e906f304c1e8ea1370.jpg


This was a "budget" build.

The block price was a used and included shipping cost to the builder.

The crank and rod was purchased new from another forum member here as a deal package. It was a 3.8" Kellogg with Saleen Manely stroker rods.

Engine ended up with 302ci and 10.5:1 CR because I reused stock heads and valvetrain.

All other parts were purchased new from the builder.

Now account for another $600-1000 for other parts to install your new engine.

I did the swap myself so no cost of install.
 
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o2sys

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I know I saved a bunch on the crank+rod combo.

1. It's hard to come by a new Kellogg 3.8" crank

2. The rods by themselves would of costed around $600.

3. I sold my original block for $500 plus my crank for another $150 so you can minus $650 from that.

By buying the used block is what helped me "budget" things.
 

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