86's VMP 1.9/Forged Build

[eighty6gt]

Yeah, walbro 405/Ti Automotive F90000262. It will work, I know that. I'm 3d printing a nice new vinyl/nylon (whichever is fuel resistant) lower plastic holder for it so that I can get that fuel filter sock positioned properly with the 3 rubber feet in there. Also using stainless wire to fasten the feet to the plastic holder.

Since my car is a 2008 I'm going to take a risk and think that the lash adjusters and roller followers are as good or better than new ones that I would buy. Known good vs. suspected bad.

Hopefully with careful assembly and stock valve stem heights I won't get the sweet problems others have where the followers jump out into the valve cover to get eaten by the cam and valves, or knock the keepers loose and drop the valve into the cylinder.

 

[Bill220]

Thanks, Bill. Everything is straightforward and more simple than it seems, the odd things catch you out and take a whole bunch of extra time but vehicles are engineered for ease of assembly and the use of as few parts as possible.

Everything is dirty from 8 years of use, I think a lot of my time is going to be spent cleaning everything from engine parts to the car body to the wiring harness loom.

I have an '09 Bullitt. Just finishing up a "simple" blower install and that's enough for me for the summer season.

Damn man, you're creating your own tools! I admire and envy that (in a good way). I wouldn't even attempt pulling the motor. I just don't have the skills, tools, space and more importantly, the patience. My hat is off to you, sir.

 

[eighty6gt]

You don't know the half of it, I'm keeping something new under my hat that I'm prototyping. I want to be finished up by June which is going to be difficult.

 

[Bill220]

How do you know all this stuff?

 

[eighty6gt]

When I was a kid half a lifetime ago I asked this guy the same question. He said, "I have to do it, so just I do it." Again, it's not difficult. This was in the early internet age. I became less skilled as time wore on, I used to farm and fix machinery as well. I have tuned up a lot of motorcycles and cars.. just riding a desk now. Probably more of a factor was I no longer have to think for myself. Everyone has already done almost everything, you just have to google it. I do this so I don't waste any money destroying parts (I don't know why I'm worried, I've never done it before,) but I find that if I just think for myself I get smarter and faster.

I have an engineering tech background and am familiar with materials, leverage, everything, it's also a curse because it also makes me hesitant as at every step I'm evaluating what can bend, break, or corrode. At least my stuff works.

Money is the biggest factor these days or I'd be diving into a lot more stuff. I got my phaser and timing drive for $150 canadian thanks to amazon's mistake. Now it would be $900+. I have a couple other projects that will be starting up after this car is together, robotics and 2-3 car/mustang/supercharger related items.

 

[eighty6gt]

New pictures coming up soon, it's supposed to be around 50 degrees tomorrow, should be able to pull the heads. Lots of parts have showed up. Spring is around the corner where I can put in 2-4 hours a day and 4-14 hour shifts on the weekend.

I'm trying to decide if I go with 295 radials or 305 drag radials, both NT555. I am not sure I'll like the handling of the DR's, I would get 305/40R18's.

I think I'm going to end up driving the car less than I did before these changes, probably 6000 miles a year, at the highest end. Once a week to work and weekend mornings, and then 2-3 trips a year on the highway 150 miles one way and maybe 1-2 400 miles one way.

I would drive in cold weather but I know how to handle that. I drive the current 255 tires on roads that are around freezing. The tires need to work in the rain - again, I have driven 15" ET street radials in the rain without issue.

I might go to the 1/4 mile strip once a year.

Nitto only recommends the 555R's for "occasional street use," while my car is "primarily street use... often in cold temps" That kind of helps me with my decision. I am very used to driving with traction issues.... hopefully I can keep my Bullitt out of the walls and weeds.

 

[eighty6gt]

 

[eighty6gt]

I think the bores and chambers look fairly typical. #8 had around twice the oil as the rest, more deposits.

 

[eighty6gt]

 

[lito]

That block is useless ;-)

 

[eighty6gt]

Trying to decide if I bother with a flex hone or not. (Probably not.) The new rings look the same as the original. Crosshatch plainly visible throughout, even where I could see the tech or machine start or stop rotation with no angle. All pistons had a 2 on them except #7 which was a 3. No marks on the bearings except the thrust bearing. I could easily reuse the bearings but will replace with same size. Hopefully I can identify what's in there by the block code.

Need a set of ring pliers and a tapered piston install tool. I was very careful popping out the pistons to not touch the cylinder walls. I think I'll make tools to help install by cutting the heads off of bolts and putting rubber hose over them.

I'm getting a provent 200. All of the oil in the engine is from the pcv. Going to clean out the intake and route the provent return back down below the oil level in the pan.

 

[lito]

What material are the new pistons?

You had your oil recirculating hose connected to the bottom of the manifold?

 

[eighty6gt]

No new pistons, I am using the factory ones and _YOU_ are tuning the car at 11-12 psi on 94 Octane E10. Boss 302 rods, new mahle rings, new bearings, new oil pump, water pump.

The bubbler hose/recirculating hose was attached and fed into the top of the inlet on my crappy tiny useless JLT oil separator.. So much oil goes through my PCV that back in the day my eaton elbow would drip oil onto the top of the lower intercooler manifold.

The engine has no blow by whatsoever. I ran it around with the oil cap off by mistake (I am completely senile,) and the only oil that blew all over was what was flinging off of the timing chain. Hardly any mess. No oil smell.

Amazon.com: Provent 200: Automotive

 

[lito]

Ok, cool. Best of luck.

Will re-balance I guess? the new rods are heavier than the stock ones.

 

[46addict]

Are the Boss rods powdered metal or forged?

I like the way you put dividers in your boxes.

 

[lito]

Sinter forged AFAIK. So neither, lol.

 

[eighty6gt]

Best of luck.

Will re-balance I guess? the new rods are heavier than the stock ones.

Heh...

Yes i'm taking in the crank, pistons, the rings I'm planning on using, new rods, and bearings for my machine shop to weigh and balance. I'm betting not much will be done as the big end of the rod gets added to the crank and the beam of the conrod grows uniformly to contribute to the other end of the equation. Will be finding out shortly.

 

[eighty6gt]

Fired from my job today, it's going to be 50F out for the next few days and should stay warm after that... the pace of this project should accelerate.

 

[46addict]

Sucks about the job. Hope you bought all the expensive stuff for the project before that happened.

 

[eighty6gt]

I have an awful lot of stuff laying around, yes. Some things are going to cost a little money, but I had been saving. I'm getting a sinking feeling I'll be working again soon!