Accufab 85mm T body Test results (Real Deal) NA

iceguyb14

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Maybe...I have had my car on the dyno a few time just for kicks and the second pull is almost always high than the first for some reasons. Not by 20 though.... We can all speculate what is going on here....but the reality is another test needs to be done between the two TB's to really learn anything. There is simply not enough data on this IMO. Every time I see this conversation on other forums the proof always points back to this ONE test and I am not convinced.

Yeah hence the reason I made the post I did in chit chat lol.

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Rob72

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Here's another thing. Except for the Airaid cai all of the the others go down to a 3.5" outlet, approximately the same as the stock TB inlet. The ACF has a larger inlet and the Airaid has a larger outlet so I wonder if there would be better results with that combination.
 

keoni1984

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Here's another thing. Except for the Airaid cai all of the the others go down to a 3.5" outlet, approximately the same as the stock TB inlet. The ACF has a larger inlet and the Airaid has a larger outlet so I wonder if there would be better results with that combination.

That's the combo I was running (along with the Boss IM), unfortunately I didn't put it on the dyno. I bought the Accufab and the manifold in anticipation of going with my turbo setup..
 

sportinawoody

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I HIGHLY doubt the .13 increase in AFR would increase the mid range wtq by 20... Otherwise every tuner out there would just slightly increase the AFR and get loads of power. When talking to tuners, a lot of then with the 5.0s have said the new motors like to run a little on the rich side.
obviously you ont know alot about how to make horsepower.it makes more with boost but on the coyote motors its more relevant because of the timing characteristics. i pulled .7 points a/f and 2 degrees timing on my blown car just to have a safer tune and cost me 60 + horsepower. you really shouldnt make such stupid comments if you dont know wtf your talking about. is .13 going to make 20 n/a ,,, no but it could easily make 10 + on that car
 

iceguyb14

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Wtf does you pulling timing and a/f on your blown car have to do with a n/a 5.0 getting .13 leaner? Lol

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sportinawoody

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im simply saying the difference in the afr is responsible for most of matt's power gain . look at the graph . i dont know why afr changed leaner but it did, that is the fact, printed on the paper. Leaning it out will add power. period. thats fact bub, i cant help he or you doesnt know this
 
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nasty281

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im simply saying the difference in the afr is responsible for most of matt's power gain . look at the graph . i dont know why afr changed leaner but it did, that is the fact, printed on the paper. Leaning it out will add power. period. thats fact bub, i cant help he or you doesnt know this

for the same reason that if u dont adjust the tune on a car when an intake is added. more air with the same amount of fuel= leaner afr
 

iceguyb14

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lean = power you dumbass blown or n/a . just shut up and read more so you can learn something.

whoa there buddy. lean = power? generally yeah it helps some. But it's not where you just keep going leaner and keep gaining power. AND a .13 difference isn't shit! And definitely wouldn't account for a 20wtq gain. Hell you could have a .13 difference between runs on a dyno lol. AND highly respected 5.0 tuners have commented that the car likes to run a little on the rich side... Ken from Lund Racing for instance "These cars generally like to be a little richer than normal."

And no offense, but your blown car with the .7 change in AFR and 2 degrees of timing lost is no way to compare to a N/A car with a .13 change in AFR with everything else the same.
 
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sportinawoody

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im simply saying the difference in the afr is responsible for most of matt's power gain
your right on the blown vs n/a thing but its more of a gauge of comparison, the gains are going to be alot more minimal on a n/a car but between 12.8 and 12.9 could very well make up half of his power gain is all im saying on this engine. and i said it was responsible for most not all of the increase in gains. anyways, on with the show
 

whitestang5

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picture.php


Installed yesterday didnt update the tune but like everyone else says better response and 4500 and up feels stronger. Also on the boss intake tube you need to cut after the flange at the t/b end, to use the 4.0 to 3.5 coupler. Also watch the fan shroud to resinator clearance.
 
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Matt D

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It's been so long since I started this. The air fuel change is minor that's not what made the gain. I have run it richer and leaner and seen very minimal gains and losses.

Back in the summer I had a customers car on the dyno (Boss intake and a JLT Cold air) Back to back pulls and I swapped out the stock T body for a Accufab unit and made a few more pulls with Zero Gains. I was shocked, I know mine picked up that's for dam sure but I lost a bit of faith on the other test I did. I just want to be honest with everyone and when I made my first post that's what actually happened.
 
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dragpac

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It's been so long since I started this. The air fuel change is minor that's not what made the gain. I have run it richer and leaner and seen very minimal gains and losses.

Back in the summer I had a customers car on the dyno (Boss intake and a JLT Cold air) Back to back pulls and I swapped out the stock T body for a Accufab unit and made a few more pulls with Zero Gains. I was shocked, I know mine picked up that's for dam sure but I lost a bit of faith on the other test I did. I just want to be honest with everyone and when I made my first post that's what actually happened.

So are you saying yes or no on buying it.
 

Full_Tilt

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Its pretty outlandishly expensive for the small, and not very well proven gains.

The stock TB aint small.
 

86merc

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Ya, it is not like back in the day where the early pushrod 5.0 had a 58mm throttle body. These things start out with a 80mm unit. Units that Ford engineers made with the shaft and screw designs with flow in mind. It is a trick unit.
 

Terminator2

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Ya, it is not like back in the day where the early pushrod 5.0 had a 58mm throttle body. These things start out with a 80mm unit. Units that Ford engineers made with the shaft and screw designs with flow in mind. It is a trick unit.

The early 5.0s made 160 whp stock the new coyote makes three times that much power bone stock and hence needs three times the airflow. IMHO 80mm is too small for a 380 whp car that revs to nearly 7000 RPMs stock. Especially once you put on a Boss IM and start revving out to 7800 RPMs. A stock LS2 has a 90mm and it makes far less power than a coyote and does not rev as high but GM thought it should have a 90mm. Ford should have put a 90mm on here stock.
 

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