Air Lift Install - Here we go slow but steady!

[onehotpny]

Scott, does it help to screw in the fitting flush to the tank, will that help to clear the bottom? fter that I'm out of ideas.

Using the provided template to locate the mounting holes, mounted the manifold in the tire well with the provided self taping screws and a 3/8” nut driver. Center punched and drilled 9/64” pilot holes. When printing the template from a PDF file make sure your printer is set to “actual size” to get the correct dimensions of the template.

Template



Manifold mounted.



Mounted the relay to the right of the manifold.



Routed the passenger’s side air line through the frequently used OEM nipple right among the two 1 gauge and one 4 gauge welding cables used for my battery relocation.



Air line from inside the cabin.



Inside the cabin the passenger side air line was secured with cable ties every foot or so to the battery cables running back to the trunk.



Underneath the rear seat I left a small loop of air line that could be pulled to the front or back if air line connections ever leak and need to be repaired. Thought this would be much easier than running a whole new air line.



Today I also prepared the tank for mounting. In preparing the tank (Air Lift part number 12958) with my configuration I installed two ¼” NPTM plugs in the two left holes and a 90 Degree swivel ¼” NPTM by ¼ PTC fitting in the second hole from the right which will be routed to the tank port on the manifold. A couple of revolutions of Teflon tape were applied to all fittings and fittings were tightened down with a 9/16” wrench.

The ¼” NPTM swivel fitting from the VIAIR compressor will be installed in the remaining side hole on the right when the tank and compressor are mounted.



A ¼” NPTM 90 Degree swivel by ¼” PTC fitting was installed in the tank bottom hole.

 

[Wes06]

Usually fittings have a slight taper to them, narrow at the start and widen as they go
So right there is probably as far as it'll go without breaking something

 

[moostang09]

Usually fittings have a slight taper to them, narrow at the start and widen as they go
So right there is probably as far as it'll go without breaking something

That's good to know!! Explains why the fittings on my Moroso Catch Can look the same as his do on the tank.

 

[Wes06]

Yea
These fittings don't have a torque spec, it's just turn till you feel it won't leak any but don't put a 5 foot breaker bar and hop on it. Lol

 

[onehotpny]

ok, that makes sense..

 

[Scott]

Nice write up!!! Thanks!

Thanks!

Get a BFH and flatten the wheel well area. That's what I did with mine to mount the battery there.

Earl

might only need to be only one or two washers to raise it enough, might want to put one washer at a time under each side/foot of the tank to see if it would clear, just an idea.

The 30” air tank that came with the kit had one ¼ NPT and one 3/8 NPT 90 degree fittings to correspond to the tank ports. The new 20” air tank has only ¼ NPT ports so I picked up a couple ¼ NPT elbows from Air Assisted (the brass ones I installed) and from Princess Auto. In comparing all the fittings the one from Princess Auto will likely install in the bottom with the least protrusions from the tank. Will check it out today.

I think without a BFH it may take more than a few washers even with the new elbow fitting I am going to try. But we shall see. Close to the bumper on the driver’s side there is a large wire grommet, it was my original thinking to pass both the drain/fill and the manifold exhaust air lines through this grommet.

I did have another thought, since it is a drain/fill line with an inflation valve on the end, maybe I need to use a straight fitting and just cut a hole in the trunk floor directly under the tank port large enough to accommodate a rubber grommet and the tip of a straight fitting. The air line could then be routed under the trunk to point that could be reached from the bumper or wheel well, whichever works best.

 

[onehotpny]

wish you the best with this Scott, but I know you'll figure something out..

Thanks!






The 30” air tank that came with the kit had one ¼ NPT and one 3/8 NPT 90 degree fittings to correspond to the tank ports. The new 20” air tank has only ¼ NPT ports so I picked up a couple ¼ NPT elbows from Air Assisted (the brass ones I installed) and from Princess Auto. In comparing all the fittings the one from Princess Auto will likely install in the bottom with the least protrusions from the tank. Will check it out today.

I think without a BFH it may take more than a few washers even with the new elbow fitting I am going to try. But we shall see. Close to the bumper on the driver’s side there is a large wire grommet, it was my original thinking to pass both the drain/fill and the manifold exhaust air lines through this grommet.

I did have another thought, since it is a drain/fill line with an inflation valve on the end, maybe I need to use a straight fitting and just cut a hole in the trunk floor directly under the tank port large enough to accommodate a rubber grommet and the tip of a straight fitting. The air line could then be routed under the trunk to point that could be reached from the bumper or wheel well, whichever works best.

 

[one eyed willy]

Thanks!
I did have another thought, since it is a drain/fill line with an inflation valve on the end, maybe I need to use a straight fitting and just cut a hole in the trunk floor directly under the tank port large enough to accommodate a rubber grommet and the tip of a straight fitting. The air line could then be routed under the trunk to point that could be reached from the bumper or wheel well, whichever works best.

that was going to be my suggestion but i didnt know if you still had the smog stuff under the rear of the car?

 

[Scott]

that was going to be my suggestion but i didnt know if you still had the smog stuff under the rear of the car?

Yes, I still do thanks for the heads up! I have to get lucky one of these times I am really hoping I have the clearance to go thorough the tire well bottom if need be.

 

[UltraKla$$ic]

Get a BFH and flatten the wheel well area. That's what I did with mine to mount the battery there.


Earl

Nigga riggin ain't allowed up in hurrrrr!!!!!

 

[Jeremy@AirLift]

For a guy with a bum hip, you are doing an excellent job on this install and write up!

 

[GallopingFord]

Nice write up Scott. Sorry I missed it, but this is coming along great!

 

[Scott]

For a guy with a bum hip, you are doing an excellent job on this install and write up!

Thanks Jeremy coming from the vendor that means a lot to me!

Nice write up Scott. Sorry I missed it, but this is coming along great!

Cam thanks, I certainly followed your thread and got my inspiration for the 2.5 gallon tank in the tire well from you!

 

[Scott]

wish you the best with this Scott, but I know you'll figure something out..

Pondered it long enough so I am picking up a straight 1/4 NPT by 1/4 PTC fitting in the morning. Now if only it will clear the EVAP junk under the tire well I will be golden.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I think you may have a problem clearing the junk. That's where a lot of it is located. I had a problem running the hold down bolts for the battery box but I wanted to keep the junk. You may need to run down and then angle it for clearance. You won't know for sure until you can get a look.


Earl

 

[Scott]

I think you may have a problem clearing the junk. That's where a lot of it is located. I had a problem running the hold down bolts for the battery box but I wanted to keep the junk. You may need to run down and then angle it for clearance. You won't know for sure until you can get a look.

Earl

Thanks Earl. Not sure if you read the first post in the thread, but I had hip replacement surgery January 21st and still have about 2 weeks to go before I can get down and up from the garage floor. Unfortunately I did not drive the rear wheels up on blocks before my surgery so I am going to have to get the son-in-law or my youngest daughters boy friend to get the car on stands for me and take a look see. I do not expect the straight fitting to stick down more than an inch or so. I will have my finger crossed!

 

[retfr8flyr]

Yes, I know about your hip and I think you are doing fantastic with your recovery. I meant that someone would need to take a look, or show you with a camera, not you getting down on the floor. I hope you won't have any problems, as that is a good solution for the drain.


Earl

 

[onehotpny]

Scott, wish you the best with your hip.

 

[Scott]

Yes, I know about your hip and I think you are doing fantastic with your recovery. I meant that someone would need to take a look, or show you with a camera, not you getting down on the floor. I hope you won't have any problems, as that is a good solution for the drain.

Earl

Picked up the 1/4 NPT by 1/4 PTC straight fitting and it does not hang down as far as the elbow did. Tank feet almost sit on the trunk floor when the fitting hits the bump in the trunk. Found a grommet that fits tight to the fitting nut portion so I should be good as long as there is nothing below the trunk floor in the way. Was not able to coral either one of the two young able bodied men around here to jack up the rear for me. Will try again tomorrow.

Scott, wish you the best with your hip.

Thanks coming along well! Did sneak down to my hands and knees today to cut a hole in the trunk carpeting under my battery box so I can remove the carpeting in future without removing the battery. Used a chair to push myself up. Don't tell my young bride!

 

[Scott]

Buddy came over for a few minutes this afternoon and got the rear up on stands for me. I think I will be able to get the shocks out myself but will need help removing the BMR Anti-Roll Bar bolts, springs and drilling the two holes for the bags.