Anybody replace wiring when doing component system?

Redfireshaker06

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If so, how did you get the wires through the door harness. I am trying to run a single wire through. But have no idea how. It has a big connector on the end
 

BadHabit2Break

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The doors have connections to the wall. There is no pass through hole.

Why are you looking to upgrade the wiring?
 

Redfireshaker06

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i really just needed to figure out how to run wires through the door harness. i am wiring up some mirrors. and I have to get a power/ground inside for the puddle light
 

ummduh

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What I've done on past vehicles is run from the door to the car. If you can't shove the wire through into the car from the door I've had to split the loom a little bit to have better leverage on the wire, or use a wire coat hanger to push from there.

Then once it's inside the car you kinda have to look or feel around to see where it actually came out at. It's usually some obscure panel hidden behind something else you can't move out of the way.


It's never been fun.
 

3VPOWA

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I ran new wire for my mids when I installed ImageDynamics CTX65cs in my car. Used my hands to hunt for it. What a pain in the ass that was. Then drilled a small hole in the molex connector to run the wire through. Never again.
 

123456

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From my 07 I believe there was 2 clips, one in the door and the other on the car, you should see them, unclip them to make it easier. I used a wire coat hanger to fish the wires through there. It was a pain in the ass. The drivers door is a more pia.
But use a coat hanger to make it a little easier as the wire tends to curl and piss you off lol.
 
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123456

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Lol that is true. When I put components on my 11 fx4, it was 100x easier. Apart from more room, there was no stupid clips.

I've been debating on changing the speakers on my 13 because of how long and hard it was when I did it on my 07. I haven't checked to see if they changed the design.
 

PLee

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What I do is dislodge the connector from the a-pillar (from the door jamb area). Use a large angled pick/hook tool, something like you would use to free a stuck radiator hose. DO NOT remove the rubber boot from this connector, as you will probably not get it back on. Once you get that connector free from the jamb, pull it out some, and you'll see that you can actually "split" the connector again. One half will pull back into the jamb; the other half will stay w/ the rubber boot. Then you can feed your wire from through your door, through the boot, and through the connector- NO need to drill another hole into the connector. Then feed the wire through the kick panel area, which is a whole 'nother pain in the ass again on the driver side (remove the amp, makes it easier). Once you have your wire through, pop that connector back into the jamb. You won't be able to reconnect the other half, but it doesn't matter. The connector still clips into the jamb just fine. I've been doing this for years (wiring up Muth signal mirrors) and works like a charm every time. Still takes me about 2.5 hours to get wires through both jambs though.
 

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