BMW wheels on a mustang?!?!

[FR500GT]

shaving the hubs makes the offset numerically higher. but if you shave the to 30...on an 11" rim....thatll stick out ALOT. That and i dont know if anyone has even fit an 11" rim.

have you searched around here for wheel threads? Theres alot of great info and choices that are brought up. from hella flush to tucked.

Last point - if you want the look then I certainley understand wanting such a wide back tire, but you do realize its just gonna slow you down right? there are guys over 500rwhp on here (myself included) that arent running tires that wide.

- If you have a 9.5" wheel with a 30mm offset and widen the rear wheels to 11", that will only add 1.5" to the inside of the wheel...so offset is not affected. Plenty of people run 11"s in the rear on the s197 (it just takes the proper offset).

- Most of my time on here is searching, and I have deallt with soo many offsets its rediculous haha.

- I completely agree on slowing you down, I would never run a 325 tire. I was going to be putting on 305 R888's which is plenty of meat for an 11" wheel without it being an overkill.

 

[Liftedbronco]

Damn, you're right. Now I see what you're saying. But still, thats alot of work and money.

I guess its just that ive found wheels that I like that fit and you havent. Otherwise id be looking to do exactly what you're doing.

PS, have you searched posts by s197shockwave? he got into alot of good discussions wiht pics showing just how flush and how low you can go. It was very informative to me.

 

[Daniel Day]

Like Shocker said, TireRack.com has the Bremmer Kraft BR05's. They look pretty good.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whee...el=Mustang+GT&autoYear=2007&autoModClar=Coupe

 

[908ssp]

- If you have a 9.5" wheel with a 30mm offset and widen the rear wheels to 11", that will only add 1.5" to the inside of the wheel...so offset is not affected. Plenty of people run 11"s in the rear on the s197 (it just takes the proper offset).

- .....

This is not correct. If you widen the wheel the center of the wheel moves towards the back this changes the offset since the offset is measured from the mounting surface to to the center of the wheel. It does not change the distance from the mounting surface to the outside but that is not where you measure offset. If you add a 1.5" that is 38.1mm. Since the center moves half that distance you add 19mm to the offset of the original wheel.

 

[FR500GT]

This is not correct. If you widen the wheel the center of the wheel moves towards the back this changes the offset since the offset is measured from the mounting surface to to the center of the wheel. It does not change the distance from the mounting surface to the outside but that is not where you measure offset. If you add a 1.5" that is 38.1mm. Since the center moves half that distance you add 19mm to the offset of the original wheel.

Your right. Maybe im just using the wrong "wording" haha. Basically what Im saying is that running the +30 offset with the stock 9.5" vs once its widened to 11", will not stick out any furthur. Your only widening the inside of the wheel, the hub is not affected at all. So basically the inside of the wheel will be closer to the shock.

The company that sells the wheels can shave the hubs for free, and widening the rear wheels from a local shop will only cost me $150 for both. So its really not that bad if i decide to get these...

 

[Liftedbronco]

fr5 is definitley right. if you add metal to the inside of a wheel, the outer lip never moves. thats what hes saying. the numerical offset DOES change and thats why i objected at first...but his point is correct.

 

[908ssp]

I understand that too. Just trying not to confuse people still unfamiliar with the term "offset". The spyder wheels do move the outside edge of the rear wheel outward compared to the front I estimate 1/2" or so. That is easy to duplicate if you wanted with a spacer on a widened wheel.

 

[Liftedbronco]

my understanding based on whats been done on here is an 18x10 with a +35 offset places the lip as far to the edge of the fender as you can go. so id base my measurements on that fitment and add metal to the inside of the wheel.

My argument has always been that you dont need to make something custom. my new motor is gonna make tons of power, and i see no need for more than an 18x10 on the street. Of course thats just my opiniion though.

 

[908ssp]

my understanding based on whats been done on here is an 18x10 with a +35 offset places the lip as far to the edge of the fender as you can go. so id base my measurements on that fitment and add metal to the inside of the wheel.

My argument has always been that you dont need to make something custom. my new motor is gonna make tons of power, and i see no need for more than an 18x10 on the street. Of course thats just my opiniion though.

First of all we have been talking 20" wheels from the first post. Second 20"x11" have been mentioned numerous times they fit. I have a set on the car right now and they have either a 63mm or 59mm offset depends on who you ask, I haven't measured. "Need" you don't "need" any wheels other than stock want is totally different thing.

 

[Liftedbronco]

Take it easy man.

I said 18 because thats what I am used to working with. We both know diameter has nothing to do with the matter at hand (offset).

The information that I was offering is that an 18...or 20x10 with a +35 offset would represent a wheel where the outer lip is stuck out as far as most tastes would want. it wont rub, and its really flush with the outer fender. This would afford the most possible inner clearance for a wide wheel.

so with that information, you can apply it to the 11" rim that is desired. a 20x11 +48 would be equally flush with the outer fender as a 20x10 +35. for what its worth, the inner side of the 20x11 +48 would be 26mm closer to the inside fender than that of the 20x10 +35.

Last - I never said and 11 wouldnt fit. i was raising the question "do you really need a rim that wide?" Need being defined as "must have to obtain ideal driveability and performance." Im going on the assumption that the people on this forum arent after the bling factor or steamroller tires, and simply want performance. For the best performance out of a stock or bolt on modded kind of car, a 20x11 with a 315 isnt ideal. you would be trading some speed for bling. Im not being judgemental (or calling anyone a ricer), but some people dont realize that bigger isnt always better so I wanted to have that discussion.

Sorry for the novel. Hope you're not gonna get too frustrated with me.

 

[FR500GT]

Take it easy man.

I said 18 because thats what I am used to working with. We both know diameter has nothing to do with the matter at hand (offset).

The information that I was offering is that an 18...or 20x10 with a +35 offset would represent a wheel where the outer lip is stuck out as far as most tastes would want. it wont rub, and its really flush with the outer fender. This would afford the most possible inner clearance for a wide wheel.

so with that information, you can apply it to the 11" rim that is desired. a 20x11 +48 would be equally flush with the outer fender as a 20x10 +35. for what its worth, the inner side of the 20x11 +48 would be 26mm closer to the inside fender than that of the 20x10 +35.

Last - I never said and 11 wouldnt fit. i was raising the question "do you really need a rim that wide?" Need being defined as "must have to obtain ideal driveability and performance." Im going on the assumption that the people on this forum arent after the bling factor or steamroller tires, and simply want performance. For the best performance out of a stock or bolt on modded kind of car, a 20x11 with a 315 isnt ideal. you would be trading some speed for bling. Im not being judgemental (or calling anyone a ricer), but some people dont realize that bigger isnt always better so I wanted to have that discussion.

Sorry for the novel. Hope you're not gonna get too frustrated with me.

^haha.

BTW: You wouldnt happen to be the same Liftedbronco as the one over in svtp in the open track racing section is it?

 

[peetiewonder]

my understanding based on whats been done on here is an 18x10 with a +35 offset places the lip as far to the edge of the fender as you can go. so id base my measurements on that fitment and add metal to the inside of the wheel.

pretty much true, you can go a few mm wider depending on the size of the tire. aks197 did 20x10+20 with a 255 which is hellaflush fitment. I'm rolling 19x9.5 +29 (equivalent frontside to a 10 +35) with a 275 which puts the tire flush with the fender, but with a 255 you could probably go a little more offset.

 

[HEMI LOL]

your car looks perfect peete.

 

[908ssp]

Take it easy man.

I said 18 because thats what I am used to working with. We both know diameter has nothing to do with the matter at hand (offset).

The information that I was offering is that an 18...or 20x10 with a +35 offset would represent a wheel where the outer lip is stuck out as far as most tastes would want. it wont rub, and its really flush with the outer fender. This would afford the most possible inner clearance for a wide wheel.

so with that information, you can apply it to the 11" rim that is desired. a 20x11 +48 would be equally flush with the outer fender as a 20x10 +35. for what its worth, the inner side of the 20x11 +48 would be 26mm closer to the inside fender than that of the 20x10 +35.

Last - I never said and 11 wouldnt fit. i was raising the question "do you really need a rim that wide?" Need being defined as "must have to obtain ideal driveability and performance." Im going on the assumption that the people on this forum arent after the bling factor or steamroller tires, and simply want performance. For the best performance out of a stock or bolt on modded kind of car, a 20x11 with a 315 isnt ideal. you would be trading some speed for bling. Im not being judgemental (or calling anyone a ricer), but some people dont realize that bigger isnt always better so I wanted to have that discussion.

Sorry for the novel. Hope you're not gonna get too frustrated with me.

I am not frustrated. You continue to assume an awful lot and think your assumptions are true they may not be.

Diameter makes a difference as 18x11 will hit the lower shock mount 20x11 clear the shock mount and allows the wheel to be set farther in.

The rear 20x11 have 59mm or 63mm of offset and they just clear the edge of the wheel well so I don't know where you come up with your numbers.

 

[Liftedbronco]

well for example peeetie and the threads he has participated in is where I get my information from. But anyway, lets just leave it at that.

 

[Liftedbronco]

^haha.

BTW: You wouldnt happen to be the same Liftedbronco as the one over in svtp in the open track racing section is it?

i dont think ive ever been over there. So I guess not.

 

[starbai]

5x112 isnt BMW, thats an audi/vw bolt pattern which as stated is wrong. The hub bore of 66.6 is also wrong because our cars use a 70.5 and hubcentric rings still wont save you.

As far as the 20x10 +35 you could run that, but it will be pretty flush so you may have to run like a 255 tire with that setup to reduce rubbing.

Why wouldn't the hubrings help his situation?

 

[starbai]

pretty much true, you can go a few mm wider depending on the size of the tire. aks197 did 20x10+20 with a 255 which is hellaflush fitment. I'm rolling 19x9.5 +29 (equivalent frontside to a 10 +35) with a 275 which puts the tire flush with the fender, but with a 255 you could probably go a little more offset.

Is it: 19x9.5 +29 (equivalent frontside to a 10 +35) with a 275 all around? Also what profile were you running? 40?

 

[peetiewonder]

Why wouldn't the hubrings help his situation?

because the hubrings step up not down. The Hub rings go on the male end (the car) to make that hub bigger, they dont make them smaller. Since the rim has a hub thats already smaller making the car hub bigger wont help and you cant make it smaller, not sure if that makes any sense.

Is it: 19x9.5 +29 (equivalent frontside to a 10 +35) with a 275 all around? Also what profile were you running? 40?

I'm running 255/40 fronts and 275/40 rears. I would also theorize that running the same size tire on a half inch larger rim, say a 275/40 on a 19x10 vs. 19x9.5 you could go with 3mm more equivalent offset on the front side (+32) because the tire tread will be shifted over by that much. That's just theory though.

You can go alot more aggressive in the front with offset. I was at 19x9.5 +16 with a 255 and no rub, with a big amount of camber up there.