CHE relocation brackets ?

[Gabe]

Gotta be able to read what he means and not what he types.

I know huh? I put the weird part in bold and he still didn't explain what he meant to type

I'm assuming that he had to replace it, but ......

 

[SoundGuyDave]

lolz! I had to search teh interwebz 4 a text-to-plain-fucking-english translation program, yo!

 

[DRock]

I know huh? I put the weird part in bold and he still didn't explain what he meant to type

I'm assuming that he had to replace it, but ......

Nope didn't have to replace it at all. Let me get you a pic. Making sure autocorrect doesn't change things for you guys.

It's hard to tell but it did get scraped a little.

 

[corruptor]

I bought the CHE even though I'm running BMR everything else. Don't needs the adjustability and the CHE seems to have a tiny bit more ground clearance and also looks much beefier

 

[Ivan 5.0]

I just snapped these pics... car is lowered on Steeda Sports and no driver in the car. The rear is slightly higher in the rear (axle side), maybe, a 1/4" or so? Wondering now if I should get relo brackets...

After adding brackets...

 

[BlackDragon]

Yes, you need relocation brackets...

 

[Sky Render]

Yes, having your control arms pointing "up" towards the axle increases roll understeer and screws up your anti-squat geometry.

 

[Ssiptang]

How about mine?

It perfectly leveled. Maybe axle side is about 1/4" lower.
I hate the fact that my Che relo doesn't have extra hole for the adjustability.
Will I benefit from BMR at the lowest setting?

 

[BMR Tech]

It perfectly leveled. Maybe axle side is about 1/4" lower.
I hate the fact that my Che relo doesn't have extra hole for the adjustability.
Will I benefit from BMR at the lowest setting?

Our top position would probably be similar to where yours is right now. By seeing your angle, I would imagine the middle hole on ours would probably work best for you. Or course, I am going by experience, and guessing....the true answer would have to come from testing it out.

I typically like to see more angle, slightly, than what you have shown, for maximum traction.

 

[Ivan 5.0]

Yes, you need relocation brackets...

Yes, having your control arms pointing "up" towards the axle increases roll understeer and screws up your anti-squat geometry.

Thanks. I think I'll go with relo brackets to lower the axle end of the LCA a bit. I emailed MM (the manufacturer of my control arms) and they recommended the same thing:

"There are two ways to fix this.

One is to relocate the differential mounting point down, the control arm should be level, or to raise the car back up to make the arm level.

Both ways will help with putting the power down out of a corner, raising the car will get you more bump travel and a better ride.

If you are having traction out of a corner issue, try pulling the rear swaybar off. We found after some adjustments, the car puts the power down better out of the corners, and has a SLIGHT push to it if over-driven into the corner."
​

 

[Norm Peterson]

With the lowering springs, leaving the axle side LCA pickups stock drives your axle steer significantly more understeerish (and the stock axle steer rate/curve is pretty damn good). Relocating the LCA pivots to restore the OE LCA inbclination will restore the OE axle steer while roughly doubling the anti-squat.

This is one of the few mods that help both cornering and launch bite in one shot, or at least they do as long as you don't overdo the downward relocating of the LCAs (too low can loosen the tail too much).


Norm

 

[fdjizm]

Thanks. I think I'll go with relo brackets to lower the axle end of the LCA a bit. I emailed MM (the manufacturer of my control arms) and they recommended the same thing:

"There are two ways to fix this.

One is to relocate the differential mounting point down, the control arm should be level, or to raise the car back up to make the arm level.

Both ways will help with putting the power down out of a corner, raising the car will get you more bump travel and a better ride.

If you are having traction out of a corner issue, try pulling the rear swaybar off. We found after some adjustments, the car puts the power down better out of the corners, and has a SLIGHT push to it if over-driven into the corner."
​

Always read going without a rear swaybar wasn't a good idea...
I only have a rear sway bar, front is gone. wonder if going without the rear will be an issue.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Always read going without a rear swaybar wasn't a good idea...
I only have a rear sway bar, front is gone. wonder if going without the rear will be an issue.

Without a rear bar either, expect the car to not want to launch as straight as it does (?) with a rear bar. Unless you're running something like a ladder bar setup, you want a rear bar for the strip - that's why the aftermarket sells these huge diameter "rear antiroll bars". Technically, more rear bar = less roll = less axle steer = straighter out of the hole. Even the bar's weight is in the right place (rearward and low). What's not to like? Why would you want to go the "wrong" way with this?

Going with a rear bar only is not a good street setup. Period. Shit happens to the best of us, and it isn't going to wait around for you to put the car's front roll stiffness back to where you suddenly need it to be.


Norm

 

[Ivan 5.0]

Got the Whiteline brackets today!

 

[Sky Render]

wanna sell it? do you think it will match up to the steeda cai? the sheild is not a big deal cause i've got to make a new one anyway to seal up around the opening in my hood.

Nice. You'll notice an IMMEDIATE improvement.

Sent from my toilet using Tapatalk

 

[Ivan 5.0]

Got the Whiteline brackets today!

Just a quick tip... and it's kind of a DUH thing, but do not tighten all bolts before putting them all in (counter to what Whiteline's instructions say). I couldn't get the driver's side rear LCA bolt through the bracket after tightening the bracket bolt and the panhard bar bolt...

 

[Sky Render]

Just a quick tip... and it's kind of a DUH thing, but do not tighten all bolts before putting them all in (counter to what Whiteline's instructions say). I couldn't get the driver's side rear LCA bolt through the bracket after tightening the bracket bolt and the panhard bar bolt...

All those bolts should slip right in if your axle is centered.

 

[Ivan 5.0]

All those bolts should slip right in if your axle is centered.

The left hole on the bracket for the LCA bolt was off by a max of 1/16" or so... and because the other bolts where tightened I couldn't move the bracket forward or back (perpindicular to the axle) to get em lined up just right...

 

[Norm Peterson]

I don't think I've ever heard or seen a recommendation to torque any bolt down until all of the bolts in the connection - or assembly - have been started. This is precisely why.


Norm

 

[LSlayer]

Has anyone hade interference between their CHE relocation brackets and aftermarket swaybars? My steeda HD swaybay rubs on my CHE brackets and the only way I can seem to make it clear is adjusting my axle by way of panhard bar WAY left. Im pretty sure I intalled the swaybar correctly. Sam Strano even advised me to remove the brackets since I dont track my car very often and said they make the car less stable. Thoughts, comments?