CobraRed's HPDE-DD Build Thread

[frink84]

It's not hard to pull the axle's to remove/install the caliper brackets. If you can change your oil and work on brakes, it's just as easy to pull axles. The only thing that you need to pay close attention to detail on is removing/installing the axles since the splines can be sharp enough to cut/score an axle seal. Watch and guide the axle splines all the way past the seal and you'll be fine.

agreed, but i had just replaced the fluid in the axle before i came across a deal on the rotors, so its all that fun of axle fluid all over again that i want to avoid

 

[CobraRed]

One of the concerns I have with that approach has to do with keeping heat off of the outer tierod pivot. Another is the possibility of creating unequal cooling between the inner and outer rotor faces.


Norm

I'm talking rear rotors, which i believe Ford even recommends removing those

did you use the oem rear brake brackets, or another source? i have the rotors, just not thrilled on pulling the axles to use the oem brackets

I used ncmustangparts, who sells on SVTP and ebay. They don't require removing the axles.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I'm talking rear rotors, which i believe Ford even recommends removing those

Guess it didn't fully register that this was a rear brakes mod

Filed away as a possible future mod


Norm

 

[CobraRed]

I would really recommend it, I did my research and made it on the cheap:

Centric Rotors: $72.12
HPS 5.0 rear pads: $65.48
Relocation brackets: $120 (on sale from nc)

All prices shipped

$257.60, so you see why $250 for lines sounds like a significant amount to me

 

[kcbrown]

I would really recommend it, I did my research and made it on the cheap:

Centric Rotors: $72.12
HPS 5.0 rear pads: $65.48
Relocation brackets: $120 (on sale from nc)

All prices shipped

$257.60, so you see why $250 for lines sounds like a significant amount to me

Yep. But then, brakes are one of those things that Must Not Fail No Matter What.

If there's anything I would refuse to cheap out on, anything that must be done right, it's something like the brake lines.

It's why I'd put the brake ducts in immediately as well, at least before the next HPDE. Brakes that don't work properly can get you into major trouble.

 

[CobraRed]

Yep. But then, brakes are one of those things that Must Not Fail No Matter What.

If there's anything I would refuse to cheap out on, anything that must be done right, it's something like the brake lines.

It's why I'd put the brake ducts in immediately as well, at least before the next HPDE. Brakes that don't work properly can get you killed.

Oh for sure, I'm either going to not touch them or shell out for the real thing

 

[Norm Peterson]

I would really recommend it, I did my research and made it on the cheap:

Sounds like the kind of thing most conveniently done at rear rotor replacement time. Unless evidence shows up beforehand suggesting it be done sooner.


Norm

 

[CobraRed]

Sounds like the kind of thing most conveniently done at rear rotor replacement time. Unless evidence shows up beforehand suggesting it be done sooner.


Norm

The labor involved with replacing rear pads is almost identical to replacing rear rotors, there's just a single stud clip on and mine just wiggled off by hand.

So rear pad replacement time in my case.

 

[Pentalab]

Has anybody gone to the effort of rear brake ducts ? Does anybody make rear dust shields that will accept a 2 - 2.5 - 3" hose ? Or is it a non issue ?

 

[2Fass240us]

Has anybody gone to the effort of rear brake ducts ? Does anybody make rear dust shields that will accept a 2 - 2.5 - 3" hose ? Or is it a non issue ?

Not sure if this has been done or not. I've thought about it though and the biggest issue would be packaging and from where the air is pulled.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Has anybody gone to the effort of rear brake ducts ? Does anybody make rear dust shields that will accept a 2 - 2.5 - 3" hose ? Or is it a non issue ?

I can't see it being all that tough to "roll your own" as far as the dust shield mod is concerned.

I'd have an easier time if I ever add rear brake ducting than I had with my fronts.

I'd actually started by trimming away a lot of the shield but changed my mind mid-stream, hence a lot of messy and totally unnecessary welding. But since I'd already added a little extra tierod end shielding, I just left that in place. IIRC, you can get short sections of 3" exhaust tubing at Advance Auto and similar places. If it rusts out before I upgrade the front brakes to 14" I'll just replace the little stubs.

Norm

 

[CobraRed]

$37.36 shipped a spring, maybe the biggest difference per dollar spent mod wise. Got them from overnightpartsfromjapan which ironically took over a month to have them drop shipped from QA1, oh well wasn't in a hurry.

The passenger to driver's side ride height issue wasn't solved by the new springs, so chock one up to KW for not being wrong about their springs likely being fine. The passenger side adjuster collar took significantly more height in order to be even with the driver's side and where I wanted it. I'd say overall the are close to basically swap in vs the KW/ST springs. Even though the spring height is 9" vs 10", they more or less want the same adjustment.

The biggest improvement is travel. The KW coilover package's progressive rear springs encourage a lot of vertical travel, confirmed by a go pro video. These, either by higher spring rate or just being linear, do not. Transitions were never bad with the standard springs, it was humps and ruts that just felt like your rear was headed for the ground then trying to touch the sky.

Overall the difference is just noticeable, not night and day. Except for humps/bumps at speed where they are much better. This is a great result because I was expecting to have a jittery harsh rear end after these, but as it turns out 250# 9" springs are in the ride quality category maybe unnoticeable from the progressives. Which begs the question, why KW?

I made sure to do a decent amount of driving with the dampers unchanged to get an idea of the difference. I've since turned the rear dampers down a click each just because they seem to like 1-2 lower.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Did you disconnect the front and rear sta-bars when you were adjusting the spring heights?


Norm

 

[CobraRed]

Did you disconnect the front and rear sta-bars when you were adjusting the spring heights?


Norm

Yup, it was completely disconnected, like last time.