CobraRed's HPDE-DD Build Thread

CobraRed

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I was just lucky, happened to be .9 miles from my house which I discovered months after moving in.

The next closest decent canyons is 45 mins north or 50min-3hrs north west depending on traffic, lol.
 

CobraRed

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Does anyone think pulling out the rear springs with the watts link still on will be do-able?
 

CobraRed

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Hawk HPS 5.0's front/back, rear brake relocation brackets, GT500 rotors.

Wanted to put in some 9" linear 250lb springs at the same time, but weren't here by this weekend and I'm not going to let decent weather go wasted.

tJUaMmC.gif
 

Pentalab

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Hawk HPS 5.0's front/back, rear brake relocation brackets, GT500 rotors.

Wanted to put in some 9" linear 250lb springs at the same time, but weren't here by this weekend and I'm not going to let decent weather go wasted.

tJUaMmC.gif

How do you like the Hawk HPS-5.0 pads so far ?
 

CobraRed

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How do you like the Hawk HPS-5.0 pads so far ?

Really good. 4.5/5, best silent pad i've used so far. Way better than HPS, +.

Initial bite is good, not fantastic like a carbotech but way better than OEM (omg are those bad). I put them through the ropes up and down a mountain and they don't seem to dust too bad. Hard to credit the pads with everything as I picked up a much bigger disc in the back, but that shouldn't be a large difference.

Even with RBF I wish I had a firmer pedal (think I'm used to newer audi's). Considering SS lines now even though I had planned to skip them. Anyone else have opinions and if the brand is important?
 

csamsh

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I like vorshlag's lines. They're a pirtek product, have all the oem fittings, and the rears are a little longer, which is nice. The stock length passenger side line gets kinked when the axle is at full droop.
 

Boaisy

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I had the Vorshlag ones on mine. Very easy to install, and great pedal feel after the install. Held up great throughout the 2015 season.
 

Pentalab

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Install SS brake lines on all 4 x corners. Then toss in 2.5" - 3" front brake ducts. You won't have any braking issues after that. Air is free, so why not use it. Brake ducts + HPS pads is a good combo for dd use. Brake ducts + hps 5.0 pads will make a superb combo. The rotor's are just big heatsinks...that sit in a dead air space, inside the wheel well. You wouldn't use an eng rad with no air through it.
 
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CobraRed

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Install SS brake lines on all 4 x corners. Then toss in 2.5" - 3" front brake ducts. You won't have any braking issues after that. Air is free, so why not use it. Brake ducts + HPS pads is a good combo for dd use. Brake ducts + hps 5.0 pads will make a superb combo. The rotor's are just big heatsinks...that sit in a dead air space, inside the wheel well.

I took the rear dust shields off which help a little, and 4" ducts are going in when I get the rest of the pieces for my oil cooler and put it in. I'm just going to remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, I never use that stuff anyways.

$240 for brake lines sounds like a lot, even tho I know Vorshlag does it right
 

csamsh

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I took the rear dust shields off which help a little, and 4" ducts are going in when I get the rest of the pieces for my oil cooler and put it in. I'm just going to remove the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, I never use that stuff anyways.

$240 for brake lines sounds like a lot, even tho I know Vorshlag does it right

All the "good kits" are 200+
 

oldVOR

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One of the concerns I have with that approach has to do with keeping heat off of the outer tierod pivot. Another is the possibility of creating unequal cooling between the inner and outer rotor faces.


Norm

When the OP mentioned "rear dust shields" I figured he meant the rear brakes and not the front.
Otherwise, you are correct, up front, it wouldn't be a good idea.
 

oldVOR

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did you use the oem rear brake brackets, or another source? i have the rotors, just not thrilled on pulling the axles to use the oem brackets

It's not hard to pull the axle's to remove/install the caliper brackets. If you can change your oil and work on brakes, it's just as easy to pull axles. The only thing that you need to pay close attention to detail on is removing/installing the axles since the splines can be sharp enough to cut/score an axle seal. Watch and guide the axle splines all the way past the seal and you'll be fine.
 

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