CobraRed's HPDE-DD Build Thread

BMR Tech

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Awesome update, and good job on hunting it down and resolving it.

I think a free floating bushing design may/should be in your future.

I am going to draw one up, different than the one we designed / offer through Energy now - and see if I can get them made in Elastomer. Takes a while though, because our Elastomer supplier is in Australia (Super Pro). If / when the time comes, I will give you a smoking deal on it CobraRed. ;)
 

CobraRed

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Awesome update, and good job on hunting it down and resolving it.

I think a free floating bushing design may/should be in your future.

I am going to draw one up, different than the one we designed / offer through Energy now - and see if I can get them made in Elastomer. Takes a while though, because our Elastomer supplier is in Australia (Super Pro). If / when the time comes, I will give you a smoking deal on it CobraRed. ;)

Done. Will it use the thin OEM bushing housing?

Seems like removing the OEM rubber bushing and keeping that piece would be a pain.
 

CobraRed

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Those XTAs tho! Sub'n.

Right? They seem to be finicky when it comes to ride height, but great when dialed.
I havent even needed to use the wrench to adjust the front perches up an down, just dug my arms into the wheel well with that car supported and could turn by hand. Just keep track of where you clock the set screw, because you wont be able to find it again otherwise.

I've only done a home alignment thus far, should probably make an appointment.

Then my task list looks like this going forward:

Intake+VMP tune (then done with power mods)
SS brake lines and Hawk HPS 5.0 pads for the street and Carbotechs to swap out.
CS Front Facia
Brake ducts and finishing my oil cooler set-up.
 

CobraRed

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Woohoo, mustang inspired tools made happen!
Soon to be in most tool warehouses (ISN, Medco, ect.) and thus Amazon as well.

PoHK3XP.jpg
 

claudermilk

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Cool! I'll keep that in mind. It would be nice to replace the useless Harbor Freight one with something that works.
 

CobraRed

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how about a group buy with forum member discount? i want one!

I could do something like that, I've already sold a couple to forum members awhile ago who requested them pre-production with an agreed upon gag-order. And i know Terry/Vorshlag has come across them.

OMG super secret brake bleeder tools!
FC_sphygmo.png
 

stepqhen

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Am I missing something here? How can you get to bleeders on the backside without removing the wheel?
 

CobraRed

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Am I missing something here? How can you get to bleeders on the backside without removing the wheel?

Edit: Unless you're talking about the backside as in the backside of the front calipers. This, I needed to jack up the car and support it (pictured is using a jack and a jack stand) to get behind on my creeper, but didn't need to take off the wheel:

MvOl5aR.jpg


For rears:
Step 1: Have a stock ride height
Step 2: Be familiar with where the bleeder is on the rear caliper
Step 3: Lay on your back and reach your arm around from the back of the wheel and clip the bleeder wrench with the tube already attached to it onto the bleeder and turn.

Took maybe 20 seconds?

My current ride height not sure if this is possible, havent tried yet. But it's a non issue with my current wheels as the spokes are far enough apart that I can reach through the face of the wheel and do it (super cool).

Some more details:

There's a rubber seal on the inside of the wrench that is shaped for a bleeder nipple and sort of snaps onto the bleeder.
GqzWI5E.jpg


The wrench can also be lifted off the hex drive portion into this free collar area so that you can use multiple swings of the wrench on the bleeders without changing the seal
rjVkzXU.jpg


Both the sealing socket and the wrench are 12-point to minimize the amount of space needed to work the wrench
8MqAcSU.jpg


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CobraRed

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With the Watts link fully in and dialed (you can follow the saga here: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123869) I'm looking at my next mod as always.

On the list is GT500 rear brakes, HPS 5.0 pads, CS front facia, brake ducts and still my oil cooler project.

The KW coilovers are still doing amazing, havent heard one bit of noise from them and with my suspension nearly done (for my needs, ATM), it's even gotten the ride quality thumbs up of approval from the girlfriend. That's rare.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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This morning a squeak/tick started happening and got worse on my ride home. Over every movement in the rear end a squeak.

After some investigating it's the bolt from the UCA to the diff.

qQLNzaJ.jpg
Wow, that is LOUD. Welcome to polyurethane. :rant: I'm not sure who's UCA that is, but I assume its poly. It sounds like poly that is bone dry - time to lube it up.

B61G0432-M.jpg


The only way to make poly not squeak over time on the street is to make it a greaseable part. We always add grease zerks when adding poly bushings on a suspension arm. These are some NB Miata arms we just adding poly bushings to in our shop this week.

B61G0802-M.jpg


This rear corner alone has 7 or 8 grease zerks. Each one is drilled through the control arm, through the bushing to the inner bushing sleeve. Then the outer housing is tapped and the grease fitting threaded in. Yes, it takes time to do up front, but from now on when you pump grease in it goes all the way into the inner sleeve, which is where they are usually meant to rotate. If it squeaks you can just squeeze some grease in there with a grease gun in minutes, and the problem is gone for another 3-6 months.

DSC_1105-S.jpg
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The upper control arms on an S197 are a POOR place for polyurethane, for two reasons. First, the design of the axle housing/bushing mount doesn't lend itself to adding a grease zerk. So to grease it you have to pull it apart and slather it in by hand. Messy and time consuming.

_DSC6197-S.jpg
_DSC6200-S.jpg


Second reason? There's too much articulation in two opposing axies in these joints, and poly cannot "bend" properly so it tears itself apart. I won't sell a poly UCA for an S197 because of this. Sure, the OEM rubber bushing eats itself over time, but it just starts to crack - quietly. Rubber can also "rotate" more easily in this joint than poly due to the added flex. The right solution? A spherical bushing that can pivot AND rotate, at both the chassis and axle end of the UCA (see above). But they can and will make noise, eventually. BANG! BANG! BANG! Its just a matter of time on a street car. Or they transmit massive vibrations into the cabin - seen that as well. For a race car it just becomes a regularly serviceable part, and who can hear suspension noise over a race exhaust? Most street guys just let them rattle and bang. I swear 80% of the driving public is stone deaf. :wink:

20141106_103123-M.jpg


The S197's only real problem that isn't really fixable on a street car. :( Well... eventually Whiteline will have their Max-C elastomer bushing UCA design released (its in prototype form now). We have requested one and will test it on Jon's S197 when it arrives... hoping its the solution for proper articulation, firmness, and quietness.

Anyway, that's just my two cents. Don't take it as gospel. Sure, we've worked on 400+ Mustangs in the past 7 years, and have seen every variety of brand/material/type of UCA. Somebody will chime in with their "My XXX brand part is perfect"... but again, most of the time people don't even know when something is massively loose or has fallen off their cars, from what we've seen. :wink:
 

BMR Tech

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Terry, he is running a bearing UCA, with the OEM Rubber Diff bushing.

His noise was the aft "U" collar of the UCA, moving against the OEM Steel sleeve on the Diff Bushing.

He resolved the issue.
 

CobraRed

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Lol Terry coming in, reading one post then going to town with text and pictures about Poly bushings when referencing my part that is a 1" spherical on one end, rubber on the other on a car at the time that only had rubber and elastomer bushings.

It basically took some Amsoil HDMP spray, went away. Then came back much tamer which got some spray again. Haven't heard a peep from the entire rear end since.

His noise was the aft "U" collar of the UCA, moving against the OEM Steel sleeve on the Diff Bushing.

That's where the noise was resonating. But it turns out it was just acting as a tuning fork - that end of the UCA wasn't making the noise. It was in fact the UCA 1" bearing, which just needed a lot of metal potectant spray to be worked in to go away.
 

Kobie

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I have the Whiteline MAX C LCA's on the car and really like them. Can't wait for the UCA to be released. Hopefully it will be adjustable as the LCA's are not.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Lol Terry coming in, reading one post then going to town with text and pictures about Poly bushings when referencing my part that is a 1" spherical on one end, rubber on the other on a car at the time that only had rubber and elastomer bushings.

It basically took some Amsoil HDMP spray, went away. Then came back much tamer which got some spray again. Haven't heard a peep from the entire rear end since.

My bad - I looked at a few posts (we check dozens of forums a day - sometimes I have to speed read, heh) and couldn't see that they were spherical. So many people use poly there, and hopefully others read what I wrote and at least think about the choice of what bushing to use in the UCA in the future.
 

CobraRed

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My bad - I looked at a few posts (we check dozens of forums a day - sometimes I have to speed read, heh) and couldn't see that they were spherical. So many people use poly there, and hopefully others read what I wrote and at least think about the choice of what bushing to use in the UCA in the future.

No worries, Terry. I welcome your posts:High 5:

Put the rice on the car. While not technically difficult, it's tedious as hell. What's worse is installing this thing made me realize this paint's not going to stand the test of time from rocks compared to the dyed plastic OEM piece.

Will likely have to take it off again in the future and trade favors for a professional to paint something rugged on it.

Before:
sue2Xl0.jpg


During:
V49vkrz.jpg


After:
g8p6IVg.jpg
 

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