Comp Cams Adjustable cam gears

[rodfarva]

Is anybody running these? I was using them on my 5.4L 4V motor and I was having issues with the car seeming like it was trying to fire out of order when cranking. I finally discovered that the camshaft position sensor was picking up
multiple readings off the set screws in the camshaft. I called Comp and they said that they've heard of this issue recently, but that it appears to only affect 4V motors and that they don't have a fix yet. I would think that switching the set screws out with a non-magnetic screw might solve the issue.

 

[wabirch]

Nope, hope they find a solution. Seems like their R&D is on the hunt. Good luck.

 

[1lowtoy]

I don't use cam gears like the Comp ones. On SOHC engines use the Trickflow lower set (on a 3v just use lock outs along with the TF lower set). On the DOHC engines I use the TF lower to degree the exhuast cams and then file the keyway and then shim the keyway where it needs to sit for the intake cams. Cam Component (I believe was the name) used to make cam gears that required a pin to lock them in place. They were the only ones to use, but they were costly.

 

[toorbeenee]

Is anybody running these? I was using them on my 5.4L 4V motor and I was having issues with the car seeming like it was trying to fire out of order when cranking. I finally discovered that the camshaft position sensor was picking up
multiple readings off the set screws in the camshaft. I called Comp and they said that they've heard of this issue recently, but that it appears to only affect 4V motors and that they don't have a fix yet. I would think that switching the set screws out with a non-magnetic screw might solve the issue.

i would check and see how many tooth that cam sensor is reading, if more than one then there is your problem, i have tried to search to see how many tooth cam sprocket have on a GT500 but no luck,

ex. in my 4.6 i had 5 cam tooth, put the piston on TDC then i cut all 4 and kept 1 as a cam trigger my car fired up right away,,,,i had the same problem to start,,,also i did some reading in bs3, check this link and read the instruction in #8

http://bigstuff3.com/pdf/ModMotorInstructions.pdf

all the best

 

[rodfarva]

i would check and see how many tooth that cam sensor is reading, if more than one then there is your problem, i have tried to search to see how many tooth cam sprocket have on a GT500 but no luck,

ex. in my 4.6 i had 5 cam tooth, put the piston on TDC then i cut all 4 and kept 1 as a cam trigger my car fired up right away,,,,i had the same problem to start,,,also i did some reading in bs3, check this link and read the instruction in #8

http://bigstuff3.com/pdf/ModMotorInstructions.pdf

all the best

The sensor is supposed to read off the metal tab seen at 3 o'clock in this picture once per revolution.

The cam phaser tabs that you mention are specific to the 3V.

The BS3 mod motor instructions that you posted aren't applicable to my setup. Mine uses a 24 tooth trigger and uses the ford COPs among other subtle changes. The UEGOR reading no longer applies.

 

[toorbeenee]

The sensor is supposed to read off the metal tab seen at 3 o'clock in this picture once per revolution.

The cam phaser tabs that you mention are specific to the 3V.

The BS3 mod motor instructions that you posted aren't applicable to my setup. Mine uses a 24 tooth trigger and uses the ford COPs among other subtle changes. The UEGOR reading no longer applies.

got what you saying my friend,,,,

your only option is to weld something to that tooth which will make the tooth stand out about 3~4 millimeter ,,,then make your cam sensor go back that much to get the correct reading and to make sure that the sensor is not hitting on the tooth it self....all the best sir

 

[05stroker]

So, these will work on a 3v with some work ?

 

[1lowtoy]

Just use your factory cam gear with a set of lockouts and the TF lower to degree them. You won't have any issues and will never have to worry about them slipping.

 

[mike@livernois]

Have not seen the current versions of these gears first hand in a while but years ago there was a rash of these kinds of gears failing. They were either cracking through the aluminum plate and self-destructing or the small little bolts were eventually allowing the cam-plate to move and the timing would start to move around.

Again, not sure if the design has changed since then but if it has not I would not suggest using the Fidanza/Comp style gear. Seen way to many failures on them. I've never seen a Cloyes fail or better yet I've never seen a stock gear fail, you can degree the cams by modifying the stock gears.

Just a heads up, hate to see somebodies hard earned money on an engine go up in smoke.

I don't use cam gears like the Comp ones. On SOHC engines use the Trickflow lower set (on a 3v just use lock outs along with the TF lower set). On the DOHC engines I use the TF lower to degree the exhuast cams and then file the keyway and then shim the keyway where it needs to sit for the intake cams. Cam Component (I believe was the name) used to make cam gears that required a pin to lock them in place. They were the only ones to use, but they were costly.

Missed this post. Yep, spot on. File the stock gear and shim the keyway. Bulletproof

 

[05stroker]

Just use your factory cam gear with a set of lockouts and the TF lower to degree them. You won't have any issues and will never have to worry about them slipping.

Thats what I have now, but if i want to change cams then the front cover and everything will need to come off to do so.

 

[mike@livernois]

Thats what I have now, but if i want to change cams then the front cover and everything will need to come off to do so.

You don't need to take the front cover off to change camshafts in a modular. Just the valve covers can come off if you use a "wedge" tool. The tool goes down in the front cover between the timing chains and is tapped into place wedging out the chain adjuster and locking them into place. This allows you to remove the bolt and phaser/gear and not have the timing chain move.

 

[1lowtoy]

You don't need to take the front cover off to change camshafts in a modular. Just the valve covers can come off if you use a "wedge" tool. The tool goes down in the front cover between the timing chains and is tapped into place wedging out the chain adjuster and locking them into place. This allows you to remove the bolt and phaser/gear and not have the timing chain move.

I think he is talking about degreeing them and having to remove the lower gear to make the changes. Sure its a more involved job, but its worry free in the end. Peace on mind is worth something, how much is up to you. All of the ones I do are done this way.

 

[mike@livernois]

I think he is talking about degreeing them and having to remove the lower gear to make the changes. Sure its a more involved job, but its worry free in the end. Peace on mind is worth something, how much is up to you. All of the ones I do are done this way.

Ahh... yes, if it's more than just a dot-to-dot swap than you will need to remove the cover to get to the lower gear for degreeing purposes. Good catch.

 

[TurboX]

For you guys in the know, whats better the Paschal cam gears or these comp cam gears ? This is for a 3V. Do lockouts fail ? I like the idea of using a adjustable upper. Even though I don't see myself messing with timing once Im tuned, I am scared to use lock outs if there is a chance they will break and cause all sorts of havoc down the road.

Thanks

 

[05stroker]

You don't need to take the front cover off to change camshafts in a modular. Just the valve covers can come off if you use a "wedge" tool. The tool goes down in the front cover between the timing chains and is tapped into place wedging out the chain adjuster and locking them into place. This allows you to remove the bolt and phaser/gear and not have the timing chain move.

I think he is talking about degreeing them and having to remove the lower gear to make the changes. Sure its a more involved job, but its worry free in the end. Peace on mind is worth something, how much is up to you. All of the ones I do are done this way.

Yes , this is what I was talking about.

Ahh... yes, if it's more than just a dot-to-dot swap than you will need to remove the cover to get to the lower gear for degreeing purposes. Good catch.

Yep.

For you guys in the know, whats better the Paschal cam gears or these comp cam gears ? This is for a 3V. Do lockouts fail ? I like the idea of using a adjustable upper. Even though I don't see myself messing with timing once Im tuned, I am scared to use lock outs if there is a chance they will break and cause all sorts of havoc down the road.

Thanks

I dont see any reason to be scared of lockouts.

So, these will work on a 3v with some work ?

???????

 

[toorbeenee]

Yes , this is what I was talking about.



Yep.



I dont see any reason to be scared of lockouts.



???????

no he is not talking about cam degreeing , the cam trigger is reading off the 2 bolts which makes the ecu think one of the bolts is TDC,,,i have edited the pic below so you will know what he is talking about

 

[1lowtoy]

For you guys in the know, whats better the Paschal cam gears or these comp cam gears ? This is for a 3V. Do lockouts fail ? I like the idea of using a adjustable upper. Even though I don't see myself messing with timing once Im tuned, I am scared to use lock outs if there is a chance they will break and cause all sorts of havoc down the road.

Thanks

Lockouts can not fail and would be the perferred method.

no he is not talking about cam degreeing , the cam trigger is reading off the 2 bolts which makes the ecu think one of the bolts is TDC,,,i have edited the pic below so you will know what he is talking about

The OP was talking about the cam trigger errors. We were giving ways to fix the problem for good.