Comp cams low dyno numbers and check engine light

[Jake Schmale]

Hello everyone, I Just had some cams installed in my 07 GT, specifically the comp 127500 along with the .650 max lift springs and phaser limiters. I also had the shop do a custom dyno tune on a dyno jet(was previously tuned by LITO). Anyway…the car only made 310rwhp and 316rwtq??. The car is FBO with the exception of an intake manifold, throttle body, and electric water pump. The car actually feels less powerful all together and I’m really unimpressed. On the drive home the check engine light came on throwing P0345, P0349, P1000. Is it worth it having them re-tune it or take it somewhere else? Does this seem abnormal?

 

[Candy10]

Curious what the shop has to say about it

 

[Dallas281]

Thats crazy. You should be pushing 350whp. Id get a retune or go to another shop..

 

[Jake Schmale]

Curious what the shop has to say about it

All they told me was the stock intake manifold and throttle body was severely choking it even with the charge motion delete plates.

 

[JC SSP]

First I would say it’s the tune, but I have to wonder if the cams were installed correctly? You should be making more power and that engine should come alive above 3k RPM+.

 

[bambam 06]

All they told me was the stock intake manifold and throttle body was severely choking it even with the charge motion delete plates.

That is BS, and they are giving you the run around. Get your money back.

 

[Jake Schmale]

Thats crazy. You should be pushing 350whp. Id get a retune or go to another shop..

I figured ATLEAST 335 with that cam setup and my supporting mods. The engine codes are quite alarming and the whole thing doesn’t seem right. I’m pretty aggravated.

 

[Jake Schmale]

First I would say it’s the tune, but I have to wonder if the cams were installed correctly? You should be making more power and that engine should come alive above 3k RPM+.

I surely hope they installed them correctly. They’re a fairly well established mustang speed shop so I hope it’s the tune.

 

[Jake Schmale]

That is BS, and they are giving you the run around. Get your money back.

I’ll be asking a lot of questions tomorrow that’s for sure. Makes me wonder if they just slopped it together and threw in a generic tune. Or worse installed the cams wrong.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Hello everyone, I Just had some cams installed in my 07 GT, specifically the comp 127500 along with the .650 max lift springs and phaser limiters. I also had the shop do a custom dyno tune on a dyno jet(was previously tuned by LITO). Anyway…the car only made 310rwhp and 316rwtq??. The car is FBO with the exception of an intake manifold, throttle body, and electric water pump. The car actually feels less powerful all together and I’m really unimpressed. On the drive home the check engine light came on throwing P0345, P0349, P1000. Is it worth it having them re-tune it or take it somewhere else? Does this seem abnormal?

The first two codes relate to the driver's side cam position sensor, so I wouldn't be surprised if the cam timing on that side is one tooth off. That would also explain the lack of power.
I suggest you go back to the shop that installed the cams, describe the problem, and insist that they rectify it.
The term FBO is used very loosely and means different things to different people. Exactly what mods do you have? I can give you a reasonable estimate of what HP/TQ your car should be putting down on the dyno rollers with that information.

 

[Pentalab]

The first two codes relate to the driver's side cam position sensor, so I wouldn't be surprised if the cam timing on that side is one tooth off. That would also explain the lack of power.
I suggest you go back to the shop that installed the cams, describe the problem, and insist that they rectify it.
The term FBO is used very loosely and means different things to different people. Exactly what mods do you have? I can give you a reasonable estimate of what HP/TQ your car should be putting down on the dyno rollers with that information.

Dino, what is the 3rd code P1000?

Yup, take it back to em...and show em the 1st 2 x codes. The cam timing is off. They need to fix it....then re-tune it, then re-dyno it. Then apologize for spewing bs.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Dino, what is the 3rd code P1000

This code merely shows that the ECU hasn't completed its emissions system testing after previous codes have been erased (usually after disconnecting the battery). The car simply has to go through various drive cycles for the emissions monitors to be ready.

 

[Jake Schmale]

I’d like to add they also only gave me one dyno run, with one dyno sheet. So how could they have possibly tuned it correctly/precisely?

The first two codes relate to the driver's side cam position sensor, so I wouldn't be surprised if the cam timing on that side is one tooth off. That would also explain the lack of power.
I suggest you go back to the shop that installed the cams, describe the problem, and insist that they rectify it.
The term FBO is used very loosely and means different things to different people. Exactly what mods do you have? I can give you a reasonable estimate of what HP/TQ your car should be putting down on the dyno rollers with that information.

Im contacting the shop today. The car has jlt series 3, steeda cmdp and under drive pullies, 1-3/4 inch long tube headers and offroad x, msd coils and brisk plugs, 93 octane fuel, dss aluminum driveshaft, 4.10 gears. I’m about 700 feet above sea level.

 

[JC SSP]

Dino you read my mind about the cams…

Hey this could happen to anyone. Take it back and talk to them, if they really are an established shop they will correct it.

Go easy on the motor until then… I personally would not drive it.

 

[MrBhp]

I’d like to add they also only gave me one dyno run, with one dyno sheet. So how could they have possibly tuned it correctly/precisely?

So they installed cams, and made one pull. No tune. That's a problem.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I’d like to add they also only gave me one dyno run, with one dyno sheet. So how could they have possibly tuned it correctly/precisely?

Im contacting the shop today. The car has jlt series 3, steeda cmdp and under drive pullies, 1-3/4 inch long tube headers and offroad x, msd coils and brisk plugs, 93 octane fuel, dss aluminum driveshaft, 4.10 gears. I’m about 700 feet above sea level.

I'd expect you to have something like 355rwhp & 330rwtq with those mods and a proper tune.
The shop can't possibly tune the ECU precisely if the cam timing is off on cylinder bank 2. Therefore they'll need to do it again once the cam timing is corrected. All they have to do is pull the driver's side valve cover, confirm whether the cam timing is too advanced or retarded, unbolt the cam phaser from the cam, rotate it one tooth in either direction to correct it, and bolt it back onto the cam using a NEW phaser bolt (they're TTY and one time use only).
If it's a competent and honest shop, they'll admit they made a genuine mistake and take all necessary steps to make things right. In the meantime I recommend you don't drive the car as you could risk piston to valve contact.
One more thing. The 127500 cams require phaser limiters or locks. Were these installed? If they installed phaser limiters, they need to be in the fully advanced position.

 

[Jake Schmale]

I'd expect you to have something like 355rwhp & 330rwtq with those mods and a proper tune.
The shop can't possibly tune the ECU precisely if the cam timing is off on cylinder bank 2. Therefore they'll need to do it again once the cam timing is corrected. All they have to do is pull the driver's side valve cover, confirm whether the cam timing is too advanced or retarded, unbolt the cam phaser from the cam, rotate it one tooth in either direction to correct it, and bolt it back onto the cam using a NEW phaser bolt (they're TTY and one time use only).
If it's a competent and honest shop, they'll admit they made a genuine mistake and take all necessary steps to make things right. In the meantime I recommend you don't drive the car as you could risk piston to valve contact.
One more thing. The 127500 cams require phaser limiters or locks. Were these installed? If they installed phaser limiters, they need to be in the fully advanced position.

I just got an email back from the shop saying the car drove fine when they tested it and they want me to send all the codes. I disagree with them because the codes and performance say otherwise. I’ll update here when I can.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I just got an email back from the shop saying the car drove fine when they tested it and they want me to send all the codes. I disagree with them because the codes and performance say otherwise. I’ll update here when I can.

I think you'd better phone them and explain the situation. A one on one conversation with the responsible technician would produce a better outcome than several email exchanges.
This isn't a problem that'll be difficult to solve and the shop should at least say "bring the car in and let us investigate".

 

[Jake Schmale]

I think you'd better phone them and explain the situation. A one on one conversation with the responsible technician would produce a better outcome than several email exchanges.
This isn't a problem that'll be difficult to solve and the shop should at least say "bring the car in and let us investigate".

Is there anything technical that hasn’t already been mentioned I should ask the shop?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Is there anything technical that hasn’t already been mentioned I should ask the shop?

I think I've just about covered all the bases but in case I've missed anything, I'm sure another person will add their comments.
Just to review:

1. Cam timing possibly off on driver's side either because the phaser is one tooth off, or because the phaser limiter was installed in the fully retarded (not sure if that's possible but anyway) rather than the fully advanced position. New phaser bolt required if the phaser is unbolted from the cam, and discard the used bolt.

2. Redo dyno tune once cam timing is correct and synchronized on both cylinder banks.

You mentioned you have 1-3/4" headers. Are they Kooks, MAC, or something else?